Ok, I know it's been forever since I posted here, but my girlfriend has had some rather major health problems, so I've been working, taking care of her, and trying to do my little improvements to my cab at the same time. End result..... S...L...O...W progress. Oh well. I'm really happy with how it's been turning out. It's nearly complete at this stage. All the T-Molding installed, speakers mounted and grilled, computer and monitor mounted and working, and control panels finished save the wiring. I started mapping out a keyboard encoder, but it's such a pain. In my impatience, I ordered an I-Pac, and I think I'll save the KB encoder for another project that won't be likely modified... ever.
Crowquill: If you're reading this, I'm posting pics of the control panel assembly. I was pretty unclear myself on how it should be constructed from Kyle Lindstrom's plans, but with a little patience and improvisation, I was able to come up with a decent solution. You should be able to see that I did not use the original Midway recessed brackets to hold the milky plexiglas in. Rather, out of being a cheap bastard, I just cut some small 3/4" plywood blocks and routed out a good sized section to make a wooden "L" bracket, which looks great from the front. Any plexi that leaves open space behind has the uniform cherry plywood behind it, and it makes for a very sturdy stop block for the plexi.
I had mentioned before that I intended to route out a groove on the underside of the top to allow the plexi to lock into place, but this didn't work out in practice. I drilled four small holes in the plexi and screwed them into the back of the metal control panel, and this left about a 1/2" gap between the top of the plexi and the cocktail top. My solution to this was to cut 1/2" strips for each panel and glue/clamp/staple them to the CP sides. I'm not completely happy with the stability in the center of the plexi, but it will never be a problem. It just leaves a bit more flex room than I'd like. Next model will be an "L" shaped piece that acts as more of a stop block. This works great for me, though, plus it made for a very easy installation of the backlights!
The insides of the CPs (not really visible) have a piece of 3/4" wood to keep the whole assembly nice and sturdy. I measured and cut out the holes for the buttons and joystick with a hole saw and spade bit. Then I just removed the wood and used it as a template for the second panel, so that both CPs are completely identical. My joysticks are surface-mount, so I routed a very shallow recess to allow the top plate to be flush with the rest of the wood, and voila! A nice and functional CP. I only went for two buttons and a start button for each player, because I intend to really only play older vertical games on this machine. My upright Astroids-to-MAME conversion is for all the games that require heavy lifting anyway.
I'm just using an SVGA 19" Dell monitor. DirectX isn't the best solution (my upright has a Kortek monitor with an ArcadeVGA card.... */me drools in awe of its splendor*) but it is definitely the most cost effective selection (free!) The computer is an older Dell P4 motherboard. Probably overkill, but it was a spare anyway, and it powers this beast quite well.
I can't wait for the I-Pac to come in so I can play! Ever since I conceived the idea of building a cocktail, I've fantasized about sitting down, setting my beer on the glass top and playing a good old game of Pac Man. You know, the American dream. That dream is close to becoming a reality thanks to all the friendly help I've received from you guys. You're the best!
Anyway, I'm done rambling. Here are the pics!