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dumb? question - trackball mounting

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moriartyds:


--- Quote from: Racer_X on March 21, 2007, 12:33:29 pm ---
This would mean we would route out the mounting plate dimensions in the top for a flush fit, then cut out the space necessary for the entire track ball unit so that there is nothing between the unit and the mounting plate, and the whole assembly is attached to the control panel via the four screws in the mounting plate?

--- End quote ---

Maybe I don't understand your question but why wouldn't you just cut out the 'football' shape as indicated on the pattern?  If you leave the little triangles in the two corners as shown on the pattern, you get some extras support which could help out if you have someone who is particularly rough on the trackball.  The football shaped pattern isn't that much more difficult to cut than a square one.
(definitely route the mounting plate though if you want a flat CP top).




u_rebelscum:

Kaytrim described it pretty well, but if you want a picture see below for quick and dirty paste of how the TB fits in the cutout:

yellow = (optional) routed out from top thickness of plate
green  = (optional) leave in for CP strength, or cutout
white  = cutout to fit TB case
blue   = amount of visable ball
grey   = "lip" or "rim": the part of TB case that is visable
red circle (around grey lip) = hole in mounting plate for TB & lip.

u_rebelscum:


--- Quote from: Racer_X on March 21, 2007, 12:33:29 pm ---Are you saying that we should essentially cut out everything such that the entire track ball unit fits flush against the mounting plate on the underside?
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Yes.


--- Quote ---This would mean we would ... cut out the space necessary for the entire track ball unit so that there is nothing between the unit and the mounting plate, and the whole assembly is attached to the control panel via the four screws in the mounting plate?
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Basically yes.  The reason it was working without cutting all the way through with your mockout was the cardboard is ~1/8" thick.  However, wood (+plexi) CPs are between 5/8" - 1" thick; usually 3/4" wood plus (if any) plexi.



--- Quote from: alandrogers on March 20, 2007, 11:17:07 pm ---the dumb question ... why not just cut that 3.25" square area around the ball?

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To address this directly, the ball is in the case, and the case must be very close to the top of the CP for the ball to stick out above the CP.  Here's side views of the tops of two different happs models:

The left is the "high lip" model, the right is the old school aka "normal" aka "original". 

As you can see, with the normal & high lip models, it is possible to cut the hole smaller than the football to the size & shape of the case just below the lip, but you'll have to route the football shape so that arm doesn't get stopped by the bottom of the CP (assuming your CP is thicker that the ~0.5 inch difference). Note that there is a third model, the "high ball" model, that you cannot cut+route the underside like this, because the body of the case is the thickness of the arm.

BobA:

Thanks u_rebelscum very well explained and documented.   I was a little hazy on this but your info helps alot.

Kaytrim:

A question was posed in the Wiki forum to get information like this into the Wiki.  Anybody want to take on the Happ install?  Randy said that he could handle the Beston model.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=64615.0

TTFN  :cheers:
Kaytrim

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