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Author Topic: uroMAMEstyx : Project done (2007.12.10)  (Read 38487 times)

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superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #80 on: May 29, 2007, 12:40:09 am »
Late night update...

pfffff... I'm tired... I got up early this morning, going late to bed tonight, and have again to wake up early tomorrow....  :dizzy:

All right, lets go with the update so I can snore in a few minutes  ;D

Tonight, I've installed the wheels under the cabinets.  To flip the base over, I needed to remove the TV and the upper section.  This time I asked for help...  My girlfriend gave me a hand to remove to top section while commenting on how big this thing is.  Luckily, I already had the approval  >:D

Ray, a friend of mine took the time to make me some wheels brackets.  I couldn't find any at the hardware store that seems sturdy enough.  Those brackets can probably hold the whole house  ;D (pic#1)

Once installed, I just "screwed in" the wheels in the brackets (pic#2) and I had a cab with wheels (pic#3).

Then flip it over, and couldn't resist to drop the coin door to see if it fits (pic#4).

That's it for tonight.
Bonne nuit!
Jay

Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #81 on: May 29, 2007, 10:10:06 am »
You will be more happy with the results using LEDs.  The color is more true.  I have a blue translucent that looked greenish when lit with the stock lamp.  Once I put a blue LED it was true blue indeed.   ;D

Kaytirm

javeryh

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #82 on: May 29, 2007, 10:26:21 am »
The level of talent on these boards always amazes me.  I really love how this thing is coming together.   :cheers:

ChicagoDave

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #83 on: May 29, 2007, 11:55:56 am »
Are those casters plastic?  If so, I would be careful with them.  I had a set of plastic ones colapse on a computer desk simply because I added a heaver set of speakers. 

The cabinet can get pretty heavy, so be sure to check the capacity of those wheels.

Meanwhile, I'm going to get myself some red LED's to see if my Orange "Red Translucent" trackball becomes a Red "Red Translucent" trackball.
Homer Simpson:
"Here's to alcohol, the cause of, and solution to, all life's problems."

knowel75

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #84 on: May 29, 2007, 02:46:08 pm »
Great project!! :notworthy: Did you use some kind of reinforcement inside the cabinet for those wheel? That bottom is going to support the entire weight of the cabinet.

Knievel

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #85 on: May 29, 2007, 09:18:43 pm »

Cabinet pics look great Jay. :cheers:

Keep going!

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #86 on: May 29, 2007, 09:19:27 pm »
You will be more happy with the results using LEDs.  The color is more true.  I have a blue translucent that looked greenish when lit with the stock lamp. 
Thanks kaytrim.  I can't wait to try them.  I'll probably hook up the LEDs this weekend.  I need to work a bit on the uroVIVAstyx to stain it...

Are those casters plastic?  If so, I would be careful with them..
Thanks for warning ChicagoDave.  They are indeed made of plastic.  I don't have any spec (I got them from a big stainless steel BBQ).  However, they are quite big (3in diam and 2in wide) and look really robust, so I thinks they can easily support 150lbs each...  I'll keep that in mind when I'll do the final assembly to make sure I don't have any surprise  :dizzy:.

Great project!! :notworthy: Did you use some kind of reinforcement inside the cabinet for those wheel? That bottom is going to support the entire weight of the cabinet.
That's funny knowel, When I modified the plan, I also modified the base since, like you said,  all the weight is supported by the bottom instead of the cabinet sides and the bottom is held into place only by a few screws from the exterior panel into that panel. 
So when I got home tonight I went in the garage and checked to make sure I installed the interior brackets and guess what...
They were with my scrap wood ... waiting to be installed  :laugh2:
I'll install them tonight or tomorrow.
I don't intend to double the bottom, only use mdf bracket (5/8 x 2) along the bottom edge to give it full support along all edges.
Do you thinks it will be enough??

Thanks for the feedback everyone!!!

:cheers:
Jay

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #87 on: May 29, 2007, 09:21:17 pm »
Cabinet pics look great Jay. :cheers:
Keep going!
thanks Knievel.
The LED strips for the side logo that you recommended will be great.  Just the right intensity  :cheers:

Jay

superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : Bottom of cab reinforcement
« Reply #88 on: May 29, 2007, 11:49:23 pm »
As knowel75 said, I forgot to reinforce the bottom of the cabinet.
So before being sorry, I've decided to fix it right away...

Since the base was modified to add wheel, the whole cab weight is now on the bottom panel of the base instead of all 4 side/front/back panels.

What I did to reinforce the base is add 2 piece of mdf under the base near the wheel, where the stress is concentrate.  This is to distribute the load on the whole panel and also add strength to the same panel (pic#1).

The inside the cabinet, I added a bunch of corner braces to distribute the stress not only on the assembly screws, but on the whole perimeter (pic#2).

That should be more than enough to support the heavy weight cab  :angel:

Good night every one!!!
Jay  :woot

theCoder

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #89 on: May 30, 2007, 12:21:21 am »
I'd recommend going with LED's on the trackball instead of a lamp.  You have many more color options, and they don't burn out.  Have you decided how to mount the LED's in the trackball?  On the Partybox project, I drilled 3 holes straight into the bottom trackball housing and hot glued them in.  Worked great. 

Look'n good.

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #90 on: May 31, 2007, 09:51:18 am »
I'd recommend going with LED's on the trackball instead of a lamp.  You have many more color options, and they don't burn out.  Have you decided how to mount the LED's in the trackball?  On the Partybox project, I drilled 3 holes straight into the bottom trackball housing and hot glued them in.  Worked great. 

Look'n good.
I'm definitively going with LEDs for all the lighting.  Especially that I have a LEDwiz  ;D
I did some trials yesterday to lit the trackball.  Here 2 snapshots with 4 LEDs lighting from below (where the original lamp was).  I may go your route Coder and drill directly in the trackball case.  I think there'splenty of space and this method probably gives a better light distribution (even if my yesterday trial was uniform)

With the LEDs, the tb is really yellow  :applaud:

I've included 2 pics of the lit trackballs with LEDs.  Again, I had a bit of trouble getting the colors right, but this will give you an idea of the yellow translucent trackball from Happ.

Cheers
Jay

ChicagoDave

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #91 on: May 31, 2007, 10:07:20 am »
Wow!  Big difference!  Now it really looks yellow!  Nice job.  Which brand and color of LEDs did you choose?
Homer Simpson:
"Here's to alcohol, the cause of, and solution to, all life's problems."

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #92 on: June 01, 2007, 10:04:20 am »
Wow!  Big difference!  Now it really looks yellow!  Nice job.  Which brand and color of LEDs did you choose?

Hello ChicagoDave, They are PURE Yellow LEDs 100PCS x 5000MCD Ultra Bright 5mm Led.
But you can easilly get any color and probably brighter leds (1000mcd) on ebay.
Just do a search for "[your color] led" on ebay.  They usually are from china, sold in pak of 100 for about 1$ + 5$ shipping...

Cheers.
Jay

Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #93 on: June 01, 2007, 10:13:44 am »
There are other options on sourcing your LEDs.  My favorite place is Groovy Game Gear.  Randy supplies the necessary resister with his 'Button Blaster' LEDs and he has the basic colors or you can get the RGB LED from him as well.  I use them for my basic lighting needs, including the marquee on my current project.

I got my TB LEDs from another source though and I am very happy with it.  NiceMite.com has a trackball lighting module that you can get in several colors.  My blue TB got a major upgrade from aqua to true blue using his module.

TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #94 on: June 07, 2007, 11:36:37 pm »
Quick update to let you know that the project is still alive...

I didn't don much on the arcade part of the project in the last 2 weeks, mainly because I was working on the vivarium part of it...

I was staining/varnishing that beast (2 coats stain/varnish + 2 coat water base varnish to make it safer for its inhabitants).

Because of this, I couldn't do any wood cuts in the workshop...

So I started to configure the PC and setup Mala and all the emulators... (time consuming)

I'm ordering the tinted glass for the TV tomorrow.
I should be able to work on the cab really soon...

Jay

superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : Got glass (2007.06.13)
« Reply #95 on: June 13, 2007, 10:49:02 pm »
Quick update (because not much was done on the cab  :cry:)

I received my glass for the cabinet.  It's a 6mm (~1/4in) regular tinted (gray) glass. 
Here a pic of it...

Nothing else to declare...

PS: I'm almost done configuring the PC.  The next step will be to add the plugin for the LED wiz...

Jay

superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : The project is still alive : speaker installed (2007.07.02)
« Reply #96 on: July 02, 2007, 01:38:53 pm »
Hello BYOACers!

the uroMAMEstyx was put on hold for 2-3 weeks.  This is because I was finishing the "vivarium" part of the project (uroVIVAstyx) (I'll post some pics of it later this week).

Now that's out of the way, I'll start to work again on the cabinet!!!  >:D

I hope to have it finished by the end of July, where I gonna do my annual corn party (or any party).  This will be a good time to give a good testdrive to the cab!!!

Here's what I did today : mount the speakers!

I used my router and a template (my first trial  :laugh:) to mount the speakers directly in the mdf.  Also, I'm using the original speaker grills.  Once the MDF painted black, I'm pretty sure it will looks nice and clean!.

Here are the pics of the steps required to mounts my speaker.

(no pic)
I measured the speaker size and build a template.  I used tricks from another post in this forum (I don't remember which one).

(pic1)
Then, I roughly cut with the jigsaw, the speaker hole and install the template over it.

(pic2)
Using a flush bit, I trimmed the hole.

(pic3)
Using a 45deg chamfering bit, I removed 1/8in to allow the speaker grill to be flushed with the mdf surface

(pic4)
Using foam tape and steel strapping, I secured the speakers into place.

(pic5)
Voila!  Speakers mounted with their original grills

I'll probably add some plumber mastic around the speaker to prevent any light from coming out. (plumber mastic is easy to remove if needed.)

More news later folks!!

(It's good to be back)
Jay  :cheers:

superbigjay

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uroVIVAstyx : sneak previews!
« Reply #97 on: July 02, 2007, 07:09:14 pm »
For those of you interested, here's a snapshot of the finished uroVIVAstyx...

Good night!
Jay  :cheers:

superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : TV access door installed (2007.07.03)
« Reply #98 on: July 03, 2007, 03:57:16 pm »
Quick update, I've installed the TV access door.  I've used a "piano hinge".

There's 2 pictures.  The first one is with the door close, the second with the door open.
Simple

Regards!
Jay  :cheers:

superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : CPU access door installed (2007.07.07)
« Reply #99 on: July 09, 2007, 12:06:45 am »
Another "boring update".

I've installed the cpu door.  This one is "ventilated".
I'm using a perforated panel + 5/8 mdf.

I used the jigsaw to cut the mdf hole + the router to recess the perforated panel in the mdf.
For the finition, I've used wood filler.

Here's some pics...

Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : CPU access door installed (2007.07.07)
« Reply #100 on: July 09, 2007, 11:51:25 am »
Another "boring update".

I've installed the cpu door.  This one is "ventilated".
I'm using a perforated panel + 5/8 mdf.

I used the jigsaw to cut the mdf hole + the router to recess the perforated panel in the mdf.
For the finition, I've used wood filler.

That is one 'cool' idea. :laugh2:  Seriously though I like the idea.  Just make sure you have somthing near the top to let the heat out.  Looking over the pics you have from the back of the cab it looks like you have your monitor sealed off from the lower part of the cab.  I'd sink a couple of holes in the monitor shelf to allow air to circulate and an exhaust port with a fan near the top of the cab at the back.  I had to do the same on Dad's Bartop.

TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
« Last Edit: July 09, 2007, 11:54:38 am by Kaytrim »

superbigjay

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Looking over the pics you have from the back of the cab it looks like you have your monitor sealed off from the lower part of the cab.  I'd sink a couple of holes in the monitor shelf to allow air to circulate and an exhaust port with a fan near the top of the cab at the back.

Thanks Kaytrim.

It doesn't really show on the picture, but the TV shelf doesn't go all the way to the TV access door, so, there's a 27.5x3.5 opening to allow air flow.

However, I don't have any vent/fan right now on the top of the cab, at the back.
I will either add a vent or 1 of the spare 120mm fan that I used for my uroVIVAstys project (lizard vivarium)

Jay

Kaytrim

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Jay,

That gap at the back of the shelf should be plenty.  I wasn't sure if there was one or not looking at the pics.  You will want to put the vent as close to the high point of the cab as you can.  Attached is the airflow diagram for Dad's bartop to give you an idea.

TTFN

superbigjay

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Thanks Kaytrim,

do you think 1 or 2 vents in the top will be enough, or should I install a fan?

Wednesday update:
------------------------------------------
I cut the bottom and top panel for the CP to have an idea if the size was right.... geee it's big!!!

Right now, the CP dimensions are:
box : 32 x (15-17) : front is curved and there 2"" depth difference between side and middle.  You can see the "curved" line of the CP (will be cut later)
top: 34 x (16-18) : same curved line...  the CP top is 1in oversized compared to the CP box.
height front : 4 1/8in;  height back : 5 1/8 in  (this is for the CP + plexi to be flush with the TV shelf)


The CP box is about 1 in larger on both side of the cab as seen on the second pic.

Does these dimensions make sens???
(it's late, and my English is probably awful...  :dunno)

Good night
Jay

Dudeman

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It looks good to me.

It's not too big at all. We've seen some with a wingspan bigger than the Spruce Goose.

... And your English is better than some around here whose speak it natively!

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Listen to the Dude Jay.  You did a good description of your CP.  For your venting it depends on the air flow and the heat generation.  I don't remember if you are using a CRT or LCD monitor.  If you have a CRT then a fan might be a good idea to pull the air out the top. 

In Dad's bartop I had two 3/4 inch holes in the underside of the CP and two more at the top.  The fan I had mounted on the monitor shelf pulling the air from below.

TTFN

superbigjay

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Thanks dude and kaytrim,

I'm using a citizen 27" tv (JCTV2709).

Does the TV usually generate a lot of heat??

I'll either use 2 vents or 2 120mm fan (with a resistor to slow it down, to reduce noise).

Jay

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I'm not sure about that model, but generally, they all put out a bit of heat.

Instead of a resistor, have you thought about using a potentiometer? That way you could vary the speed of the fans to balance the noise vs. the cooling.

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Good idea DudeMan....

If I use a fan. a pot will definitively be the way to go!!!

Cheers  :cheers:
Jay

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This is a very impressive project!
You are very dedicated to doing a good job.
On my three (thus far) arcades, I mounted a 120 mm fan in the bottom back of the cabinet, then an opening at the top to let the hot air escape.
http://skennys-arcade.blogspot.com/2007/06/some-more-pictures.html
I think mounting the fan at the bottom of the cabinet reduces the noise that the players hear.
Also, cool air blows across the fan motor instead of the hot air that would be at the top of the cabinet. Im not sure if this prolongs the life of the fan or not, but it couldnt hurt.
I also used a screen over the top opening, because bugs and dust seem to be attracted to the marquee light area. Of course the bugs might make good pet food..  :laugh:
Good luck with the rest of your project.

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uroMAMEstyx : CP box assembly (2007.07.14)
« Reply #110 on: July 14, 2007, 11:41:09 pm »
This is a very impressive project!
You are very dedicated to doing a good job.
On my three (thus far) arcades, I mounted a 120 mm fan in the bottom back of the cabinet, then an opening at the top to let the hot air escape.
Thanks OldMan (love your avatar!!!), 
I went on your blog to see it (very well documented, you remind me my father in law  :D).  I think I'll just install 1 or 2 vent on the top.  This will probably be enough.  I'll probably setup something to let the hot air out, but not the light from the marquee...

Question : is there light coming out from your top opening...

===============================================================

Hello everyone,

today (Saturday) I was able to assemble the CP box.  The final dimensions of the CP box are:

width = 32
depth = 15 (side), 17 (center).  Front face is curved.
height = 4 5/8 (back), 3 1/8 (front).  This give a slope of roughly 7 deg

Construction...

step 1 : determine the CP size and verify with the forum is the size make sens
step 2 : cut the mdf (top, bottom, back, side x 2, front x 4.
step 3 : glue the 4 mdf pieces together.  These will be used for the curved front face (pic#1 and pic#2)
step 4 : cut the curve using a jigsaw on both top and bottom panel
step 5 : assemble the side, back and front to the bottom
step 6 : with the sand belt and a 60 grit belt, "sand" the curved front face (outside!!!)
step 7 : use wood filler to hide screw holes and imperfection
step 8 : finishing sanding (will be done tomorrow)

I'm attaching a few pic to illustrate the process...

Cheers!!! 
Jay
:cheers:

superbigjay

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Small update and no picture  :(

As planned, I finished the finishing sanding.  The next step will be the primer!! (yeah! almost done with dust...)

For the circular side logos, I'll be using 3/8 plexi + logo printed on backlit film + 3/8 plexi.
So I did my template (using a piece a 3/8 luan), then found a old piece of plexi that was laying around
and using my router flush bit, I cut 2 plexi circle.  I might sand them later if I need to diffuse the LED light.

Finally, I added a shelf to put the subwoofer on.  The Z2300 speaker wires are borderline (length wise). 
That shelf will allow me to connect the 2 speakers to the sub without having to use any extension.

That's about it for tonight.

PS:
For the painting, I thought of using Bella's Arcade technique, but soon realized that only Javeryh is crazy
enough to go through that exhaustive process  ;)

Jay  :cheers:

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uroMAMEstyx : First coat of Primer (2007.07.18)
« Reply #112 on: July 18, 2007, 09:29:44 am »
Hello!!!

I've started the paint.
I'm using a 1.5in paint brush + foam roller to paint that thing.

In the last 2 days I did the first coat of primer EVERYWHERE.
The next step is to to any wood filler touch up and add a second coat of primer on all visible sides.
Then I'll give 1 coat of black semigloss latex everywhere + 2 extra coats on visible sides.

I'm including a Pic of all primed pieces and also one of the side logo plexis being routed with the flush bit and the luan template.

That it for today!

Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : CP box assembly (2007.07.14)
« Reply #113 on: July 19, 2007, 01:24:38 pm »
Question : is there light coming out from your top opening...

There is a small amount of light from the marquee lamps that does come out of the back of the cabinet, through the air space, but it is very subtle and does not affect anything at all.
The screen I put across the opening also cuts the light down considerably.

Thanks for the kind comments about my blog.
Your project is coming along great, you are doing a fine job.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : First coat of Primer (2007.07.18)
« Reply #114 on: July 21, 2007, 10:27:49 am »

Looking good Jay, love the curved CP box. :)

Are you using the small white 4" foam rollers? Those will give you a spray-like finish.

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : First coat of Primer (2007.07.18)
« Reply #115 on: July 23, 2007, 12:17:13 am »
Looking good Jay, love the curved CP box. :)
Thanks.  Since I was using a "curved CP", I decided to match the CP box...
It was too long to do (but generated a lot of dust...)

Are you using the small white 4" foam rollers? Those will give you a spray-like finish.
Yep!  However, it's not "spray-like" yet...  There was a bit of dust in the garage...

I'm almost done with the second coat of latex (everywhere).

I'll give a 3rd coat on all visible surfaces soon.

Then I'll work on the CP layout to be able to drill hole next weekend  :D

Good night!!
Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : First coat of Primer (2007.07.18)
« Reply #116 on: July 24, 2007, 03:28:53 am »
I think we worry too much about heat.  The original cabs had 19" monitors and big, inefficient electronics.  They just had a vent at the top, no fan.  I think one fan in your cab should be fine.  Has anyone done any temperature studies on their cab(s)?

On my driving cab, I put two fans in.  They made a ton of noise.  To quiet them down, I put in 50 ohm 1/4 watt resistors.  They (the resistors) got extremely hot.  After checking the math, I found they were drawing a little more than 1/2 watt.  I ended up putting three 100 ohm 1/4 watt resistors in parallel (= 33.3 ohms total with 1/2 watts going through 3 or 1/6 watt per resistor).   The fans run very slow and quiet, and after running for hours, everything inside is cool to the touch. 

Great progress.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : First coat of Primer (2007.07.18)
« Reply #117 on: July 25, 2007, 07:50:50 am »
Keep the reports coming Jay, have just (finally) finished cutting out all my pieces for the UAII and cant wait to start putting them together (weather crap here atm).

Good job!  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : First coat of Primer (2007.07.18)
« Reply #118 on: July 25, 2007, 09:40:29 am »
There is a small amount of light from the marquee lamps that does come out of the back of the cabinet, through the air space, but it is very subtle and does not affect anything at all.
The screen I put across the opening also cuts the light down considerably.
OldMan,
I'll probably "close" the light marquee section to prevent any light from coming out from the top vent/fan.

I think we worry too much about heat.  The original cabs had 19" monitors and big, inefficient electronics.  They just had a vent at the top, no fan.  I think one fan in your cab should be fine.  Has anyone done any temperature studies on their cab(s)?
Thanks Coder. 
Since I have a "big enough" opening at the bottom, I might just add 1 or 2 vents at the top or a fan, depending on what will look better. 

I will definitively add a resistor in series with the 12V fan (if I use it) to reduce its RPM. (I had the same noise problem with the fan in my vivarium project)


Keep the reports coming Jay, have just (finally) finished cutting out all my pieces for the UAII and cant wait to start putting them together (weather crap here atm).
Thanks Soup!
I really like the general shape of the UAII (except for the big drawer).
You'll see, assembling the cab is one of the fun step of the project, since you can see an immediate results!!


---------------------------------------------------
painting update
---------------------------------------------------
I've finished the second coat of black paint everywhere on the cab (even inside).
Also, I have installed a shelf inside the bottom part of the cab for the subwoofer.  This is to avoid using
RCA extension for the 2 speakers (the wire length is borderline and raising the sub by 12in, gives me the slack I need).

I already sanded the "visible surfaces" on which I'll put an additional 2 coats of black.  This should be a quick process, since it will be done with the 4" foam roller.

At the same time, I'm preparing my test piece.  I already tried
   1 primer + 2 black + light sanding + rubbing compound directly
and it gives good results (almost no orange peel). 
I might also use some "clear" spray, depending on the results on my test piece...
I'll try to post some good pics of that process and of the results I get (before/after).


So here's the pics...
pic#1 : subwoofer shelf
pic#2 : 2 coats of black on all pieces...
   The family cab picture:
   bottom from left to right : CP top, CP box, Front drawer, TV back access Panel
   center : lower part of the cabinet
   top : upper part of the cab and in front of it (not really visible), the speaker shelf.
           And finally, the circular side logo lighting system (led strip), right next to the blue recycling bin
          (this one is hard to see  ;))

On this, I've got to go work...

Cheers!!!  :cheers:
Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : First coat of Primer (2007.07.18)
« Reply #119 on: July 26, 2007, 12:00:06 am »
real quick update...

just finished the 3rd coat of paint.
will try tomorrow the rubbing compound to see the result on my test piece...

ciao!
Jay  :cheers:

  
 

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