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Author Topic: uroMAMEstyx : Project done (2007.12.10)  (Read 38488 times)

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theCoder

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #40 on: April 13, 2007, 12:11:11 am »
...more metal rip/dust/pieces (sh...t what's the name...). 
I believe they are called "chips".

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #41 on: April 13, 2007, 08:36:59 am »
I believe they are called "chips".
Aaah! that's it! thanks  ;)

superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : side pannel finishing part 1
« Reply #42 on: April 15, 2007, 10:00:57 pm »
Hello everyone,

I spent some time Saturday to work on the stainless steel side panels.

First, I did some trial to find a way to smooth the edges..

First, I tried a rust removal sponge (pic#1).  This wasn't a good idea at all.  It didn't do a good and and also left a bunch of scratches on the stainless (pic#2)...
 
Then I tried this combination of wood block (pic#3) and sanding drum (pic#4).

The wood block was used to "flatten" the metal dents from the jigsaw cuts (pic#5).  These irregularities were perpendicular to the surface, and trying to clamp the panels together with these would have scratch the surface.

The sanding drum was used to smooth the edge (pic#6)

Once all the edges were "cleaned", I clamped both panel together (pic#7)

superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : side pannel finishing part 2
« Reply #43 on: April 15, 2007, 10:16:05 pm »
Too many pics, so another post...

I did my best to align both panels prior to the clamping.  However, it seems that my cuts were not precise to 1/32 (pic#1)"  :dizzy:  But I was expecting that  >:D

So I took my belt sander along with a few sanding belts (60-80 grit) (pic#1),  my dust mask and I was ready to sand!!! (pic#3)   ;D

Few hours and 11 sand belts after (pic#4) (sand belts don't like stainless  :dizzy:) I finally had 2 symmetric panel (and of opposite sides) (pic#5)  :applaud:

Today (Sunday), I cut the 15" hole in the middle of the stainless side, tried my LED strips, built the led strip mount.  I only have to do the hole "finishing" and mount the strip on their support.  But this will be in another post...

Good night  :blah:
Jay

Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #44 on: April 15, 2007, 10:17:38 pm »
A Bastard File would have given you a nice smooth edge without the burning that you can see on the one pic.

Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #45 on: April 15, 2007, 10:26:37 pm »
A Bastard File would have given you a nice smooth edge without the burning that you can see on the one pic.
Gee Kaytrim, you're fast!!!  I didn't even had time to finish my second post, that you already had time to post  :cheers:

For the bastard file, I might get one tomorrow...  You were talking about burning!  you should see the 15" circle hole in the side panel...  The burning on the jigsaw blades on a previous picture were nothing compare to the one from tonight... (2 panels at once : 1 1/4" mdf + 1/20" of stainless = not a jigsaw blade's friend)...

I'll probably use the file along with the sanding drum to clean up the hole...

thanks
Jay

Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #46 on: April 15, 2007, 11:18:48 pm »
For the hole look for a round file.  The bastard file is for straight lines.  When you use them don't go straight up and down.  Slide the file along the edge as you push down.  Push down only as well.  Pulling the file up will only dull it quicker.

Gee Kaytrim, you're fast!!!  I didn't even had time to finish my second post, that you already had time to post  :cheers:

I just happen to be reading the forums as you were posting. ;D

TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #47 on: April 16, 2007, 05:31:56 am »
For the hole look for a round file.  The bastard file is for straight lines.  When you use them don't go straight up and down.  Slide the file along the edge as you push down.  Push down only as well.  Pulling the file up will only dull it quicker.
Thanks for the advice, I'll probably give it a try tonight...  I'm going to work now (about 4 hours earlier than usual...)

I just happen to be reading the forums as you were posting. ;D
Yeah sure!  You might also have some wireless hi-tech device in your brain  :laugh2:

BTW, we just had another 10-15 cm of snow here in Montreal.  It seems the  :angry: :soapbox: winter won't give up!!!

Ciao
Jay

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uroMAMEstyx : side pannel finishing part 3 (side marquee)
« Reply #48 on: April 18, 2007, 09:39:06 am »
BTW, we just had another 10-15 cm of snow here in Montreal.  It seems the :angry: :soapbox: winter won't give up!!!
Before going into the cab progress, here's a pic of what I think will be the last snow of our fabulous winter  :angry: :dizzy: :soapbox: :timebomb:  It's only 10-15cm, but at this time of year, it's kind of a pain in the... (pic#1)

As for the cab...
You were talking about burning!  you should see the 15" circle hole in the side panel... 
...
I'll probably use the file along with the sanding drum to clean up the hole...
As I said, the circle cut was all burned (black).  I had to stop at every inch because the mdf was starting to burn...  To clean this mess, I used the bastard file (with one round edge) and the "rust sponge" to remove most of the burning traces.  Then I used the sanding drum on my route at the lowest speed to finish the clean up.  Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of the "burned" circle (I guess, I was too pissed off  >:D)
But the pic#2 and pic#3 shows the 15" circle in the stainless side panels.

I also did the led strip assembly to illuminate the 15" circular side marquees.  I cut 2 square of 18x18 in a piece of 3/8 mdf, clamp them together, draw a 16" circle and cut it.  Then, I used Lock-Tite cement to fix 4 led strips per hole. (pic#4 and pic#5).

The final step of the side panels will be to enlarge by roughly 1" the side panel hole (only the mdf part) to be able to mount a plexi inside the hole that will be flush with the stainless.  If I do this correctly, I should end up with a 15" hole in the stainless and 16" hole in the mdf.  I will use a guide on the route (pic #5) that will follow the SS edge and allow me to remove 1/2" as I go...  I did some testing, and that technique seems to work well. 

PS:
Any idea for the side marquees??? 
So far my idea is to use the circular MAME logo in yellow color and add a lizard character somewhere.  I will probably also add a small "uro" before and "styx" after the MAME to match the cab's name.

more news in the next post  ;)

Ciao, got to get to work...
Jay!

superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : Let there be light!
« Reply #49 on: April 19, 2007, 09:37:44 am »
quick morning update (because not much was done in the last 2 days  :'()

I have 1 good news and 1 bad news...

The good:
I've completed the led ring to illuminate the side marquee (pic#1).  It seems alright.  I hope the light intensity will be enough to lit the marquee.  Since it is yellow, the side marquee colors will be yellow, black and red.  I'm afraid other colors won't look good if lit by a yellow light...

The bad:
The lock-tite didn't do the job for gluing the led strip on the mdf.  The led strip surface is not flat because of all the soldering bumps.  So using contact glue in the first trial didn't work.  Also the strip surface is covered with varnish to isolate the electrical traces.  Because of that varnish, the lock-tite doesn't have a good adherence. 

I'll have to try something else this weekend.  This is what I have in mind:
- use contact cement
- To solve the uneven surface problem of the led strip, use a small
   rubber/neoprene (flexible) layer between the led strip and mdf. 
That way, I should have a good contact.  I'll try that tonight.  In the mean time, if you have any recommendation, please, let me know!

More news this weekend...

So like the say : one step forward, 2 steps back  :cry:

Have a nice day!
Jay

Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #50 on: April 19, 2007, 09:52:02 am »
You have quite a bit of light there from all those LEDs  A few possible suggestions.  If you plan to never take these strips out try using epoxy.  If you think you may need to take them off for some reason try double sided foam tape.  One other idea is to take out the LED at each end of each strip and install a screw hole.  If you go with the screw make sure you pre-drill the MDF or you will split it for sure.

TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim

Knievel

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #51 on: April 20, 2007, 03:09:43 pm »

Looks great Jay, lots of progress being made! Those LED strips look very cool, I think they should be plenty bright enough.

I would second Kaytrim's suggest of foam tape to secure them. The regular Home Depot stuff would probably work but there are stronger choices if need be. You can go to a window/door place and buy a roll of what they use, which is stronger, or go to an auto supply place and buy some double-sided 3M tape. It's used to attach body moldings and will create an almost permanent bond..believe me. ;)

Nice to see someone other than Winterpeg getting some snow. ;D

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #52 on: April 21, 2007, 05:30:42 pm »
I would second Kaytrim's suggest of foam tape to secure them. The regular Home Depot stuff would probably work but there are stronger choices if need be. You can go to a window/door place and buy a roll of what they use, which is stronger, or go to an auto supply place and buy some double-sided 3M tape. It's used to attach body moldings and will create an almost permanent bond..believe me. ;)
Thanks Kaytrim and Knievel for the suggestion.  I was about to go at the hardware store yesterday to get double-sided foam tape and my friend suggested to try his Polyurethane glue before the tape.  Since that trial was free, I gave it a try... and it worked  ;D

Anyways, I'll post some pic tomorrow of the progress (and damages) done this weekend...

cheers!  :cheers:

superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : LED strip mount
« Reply #53 on: April 22, 2007, 02:16:49 pm »
Here part 1 of 2 of the progress update...

This weekend, I've finally finished the LED strip mount.    :applaud:

To glue the 4 x 1 Foot metallic LED trip on the circular edge of a 3/8" MDF, I've used POLYURETHANE GLUE (pic#1).  That glue is almost as strong as epoxy, but more flexible once cured and doesn't require mixing.  Also, it is a bit more messy when it dries.  As you see, when the glue dries, there some sort of foam/bubbles formation (pic#2).  However, when fully dry (24hr), you can remove it easily.

To get the most from the led strip, I've installed a reflective layer to the LED mount.  I've used MetalFX from Con-Tac (found it at Home Depot) (pic#3).  Basically, it's the same stuff you use to protect the bottom of drawers...

Finally, you can see on the last picture, one of the 2 LED mount finished (pic#4)...


Cheers!  :cheers:
Jay

superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : side panel finished!! : cheers:
« Reply #54 on: April 22, 2007, 02:35:47 pm »
... part 2 of the progress update.

I've finished the 2 stainless steel side panels!!!  :applaud:

In my opinion, I think this is the toughest part of my project.

The only thing I had to do was to groove the side panel hole to remove about 1/2 inch to have room to mount the circular plexi for the side logo. 

I did some testing on some scrap pieces and everything went well.  I was able to groove roughly 1/2 x 5/8 into the MDF in one pass.

For the first panel, I took the time to choose the side that will be less visible in case something happens.  I setup everything, start the router and GO!!!!  Wow, everything goes as plan, a perfect groove!  :notworthy:

I'm kind of surprise, that nothing bad happens  :dizzy:.

So I install the next panel, turn on the router, but this time, I see some metal  chips (yeah, I know that work now  ;D)...  Ooooooh ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---!!!  I stop the router and take a look....

No no no no (In fact it was more like a "Tabar..."  (I'm from Quebec)  :angry: :banghead:)
Somehow, the router bit lower a bit and hit the stainless :soapbox:

I didn't go through, but obviously, there will be some marks...

Anyways, I finish the routing, take off the protective film to look at the damages (pic#1).

After a deep breath, and a break, I added some epoxy behind the SS to hold the remaining tinny layer of SS.

I guess I'll live with it.  When you don't know is there, it's not that noticeable.
But I guess I'll always see it  :banghead: :angry: :badmood:  :hissy:

So that's all for the week end.,,

Tonight if I have time, I'll test the joysticks with mame,,,

Cheers  :cheers:
Jay

Knievel

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #55 on: April 22, 2007, 04:27:41 pm »

Too bad about the scuff but that is one sweet looking panel!

If it does bother you something like this(with a little modification)might cover that rough edge up..

http://www.t-molding.com/store/product.php?productid=16&cat=5&page=1

BTW I'm not sure if you are aware of this but they make laminates with metal finishes now. There is one that's a dead ringer for stainless steel, very easy stuff to work with.

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #56 on: April 22, 2007, 05:13:39 pm »
Too bad about the scuff but that is one sweet looking panel!
If it does bother you something like this(with a little modification)might cover that rough edge up..
Thanks for the hint, I'll keep that in mind if the scuff is too visible when the plexi is installed.

BTW I'm not sure if you are aware of this but they make laminates with metal finishes now. There is one that's a dead ringer for stainless steel, very easy stuff to work with.
Nooooo!  :dizzy:
I knew about the metal vinyl (like I've used as a reflective background on the LED mounts), but laminates...  Definitively a good option for real stainless steel:
- easier to work with
- probably less expensive
- no finger prints

Cheers  :cheers:
JF

Knievel

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #57 on: April 22, 2007, 06:37:24 pm »

Yes I made a bar for someone using it, really easy to work with.

On the downside it's actually more expensive than real stainless. :P

http://www.formica.com/publish/site/na/us/en/index/metal/colors_collections0/metal_laminate.detail.2178.0001.html

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #58 on: April 22, 2007, 06:54:30 pm »
On the downside it's actually more expensive than real stainless. :P
Well, it's good to know there're alternatives.

It took me 33 years to need a sheet of stainless.  Hopefully, that kind of laminate will be cheaper in 33 years from now   >:D

Jay

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uroMAMEstyx : Mini Control Panel completed !!!
« Reply #59 on: April 22, 2007, 08:17:12 pm »
Houray!

I was able to finish and try my CP.  Well my mini CP  ::).
In fact, it was just a trial to see how to hook the keywiz with the happ 360 and pushbutton.
So I did a small CP : 1 joystick + 2 buttons and try a few games...

For some reason my old school favorite "mat mania" didn't work properly, but I'll check that later when I get my CPU for the cab...

So here's a snapshot of it with shinobi in the background...

PS:
just 1 joystick and 2 pushbuttons and I was able to make a mess...
Can'r wait when the real CP will be ready with 3 joysticks and about 30 buttons...  :o

Good night!
Jay

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #60 on: April 23, 2007, 09:34:18 pm »
Hello everyone,
here is a small update to explain where I am on the "lizard" part of the project...

I've receive pretty much everything I need to build the vivarium.
- the wood is cut
- I bought the front window slides
- I bought the fan controller (to regulate and monitor the temp inside the vivarium)
- I bought the fan (120mm LED fans)

It will be some sort of hi-tech vivarium  8)

I'll probably start the assembly this weekend...

Also, here's a pic of my favorite Dobe Mika!
... As you see, it's a dog's life...


superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : All wood cut!!!
« Reply #61 on: April 29, 2007, 11:55:19 pm »
Late update before going to bed...

I took Saturday to complete the modifications to the UAII cabinet plan.

The coin door I'm using is a Happ over/under which doesn't fit with the big keyboard drawer.  So I've reduced the drawer size to be able to fit the coin door. 

Also, because the stainless steel side panel used a whole mdf sheet, I redid all the cut layout on the remaining 2 MDF sheets.

I also had to redo all the back side and top of the cabinet.  The plan doesn't use miter cut (angled) to fit the panels.  Instead, it recommends to use a silicon bead to seal the joint between each panel.  So I redid all those parts.  I hope I didn't do too many mistakes  :angel:

Then, on sunday, I cut all the mdf.  EVERYTHING is cut  :applaud:

The only thing left is the miter cuts for the angled side of some parts.

Now, the pictures...
pic#1 : the 2 lower side panels clamped and "adjusted" (after the edge sanding...)
pic#2 : All parts that are ready to use (excluding the stainless sides)
pic#3 : All parts that need a miter cut for the angled edge.  These angle vary from 10.3 to 45.0deg.  There's 13 cuts left to do...
pic#4: Woooo!  for people without any experience with MDF, man this thing is dusty.  Prepare yourself (mask, aeration and..... broom  ;))
pic#5 : I've found these in my garage.  They're 3 inches wheels that we're used for a BBQ.  I ended up with 2 sets of  wheels.  They're quite sturdy and can be locked.  Also, they've got a nice stainless accent on them.  It's a shame they'll be hidden by the cabinet  ;D

So that's about it, the wife is going to bed.  That means I have to go to bed...
I'm kidding guy, I'm the boss around here  :laugh:

Euuuh, what am I doing???  nothing...  I'm coming honey   :dizzy:

Good night!




superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : All wood cut and miter cuts finished!!!
« Reply #62 on: May 01, 2007, 12:32:08 am »
After another 2 hours in the dust, I've finally finished all the remaining miter cuts I had to do.

For all pieces that requires a miter cut, The UAII plans will specify the longest edge along with the cut angle (pic#1).

For those who have access to a table saw, but are not sure how to do their miter cuts, here's an easy way...
Keep in mind, that I am not an woodworking expert, so there's probably better ways to do this, but since it worked pretty well for me, I'm sharing...  ::)

Step 1 : get the table offset for a given angle.
1. set the cut angle.  (ex: 22.5 degree)
2. set the cut length to a known value on the table. (ex : 6 inches)
3. cut a piece of scrap wood (must be the same "thickness") (ex: scrap piece of 5/8 MDF, 8 inches long)
4. Measure the length of your piece cut with the angle (ex: 6-7/16)

==> that means that the table saw has an offset of 7/16 inch for a cut at 22.5 deg.
==> now that you have the offset, you can use it for all cuts at 22.5 (always on the same side of the blade)

Step 2 : do the cut.
In the example, we need to cut a 22.5 degree to get a 2 inches wide piece.
So you set the table at : 2 - 7/16 = 1 9/16 (angle at 22.5)
And you cut the wood (and of course be careful  ;))

And you end up with a 2" flush piece of wood with a miter cut at 22.5 deg  :applaud:
(pic#2 and pic#3)

So as for now, all my wood is cut for both projects  : uroMAMEstyx and uroVIVAstyx.
The next steps is the assembly.

This should be a lot of fun since you can easily see the progress taking form!!!

Stay tune for the next posts  :cheers:

Good night everyone!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #63 on: May 01, 2007, 02:09:43 am »
Awesome project. I don't know how I missed this one..

 :cheers:



It's 9am. I'm calling it a nite.

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uroMAMEstyx : got sound!
« Reply #64 on: May 04, 2007, 09:07:28 am »
Awesome project. I don't know how I missed this one..

Thanks NiteWalker !!

I didn't do much on the uroMAMEstyx in the last few days.  I spent all my free time on the uroVIVAstyx project (the vivarium part)
http://www.reptilerooms.com/forumpost-390217.html#390217
... and fighting a dawn sorethroat  :angry: (but without the voice...)

I did however finally get my speakers.  I wanted something in the 100$ range, with good power and sound.  After searching into different topic on this board, my choice were:
- Klipsch Promedia 2.1
- Logitech Z-2300 THX
I'm gonna use the cab to play music on the main floor...

I was looking on ebay to get those speakers, and they were in the 100$ range (taking into account the shiping + duties/taxes).  Then, I remembered seeing a post from Knievel saying that the Z-2300 were often in special at 100 Canadian $.  They had it on futureshop at 230$ and bestbuy at 230-130 instant rebate = 100$.

All right  :applaud:

So that's about it...
I will assemble the base saturday, so stay tune!!

Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #65 on: May 04, 2007, 11:07:26 am »
With a total of 200 watts, this thing will rock.  You will want to make sure everthing is buttoned down tight (glass mount, screws, anything loosly touching something else; like the back door, etc.)  Otherwise it will vibrate like crazy.  Look'n good.

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #66 on: May 06, 2007, 12:33:48 am »
Thanks for the advice TheCoder.  I'll probably use some neoprene tape (like for pickup box) to prevent any vibration...
I haven't had time to test the speakers, but I can'twait to see what they are capable of....
Jay  >:D

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uroMAMEstyx : Lower part of cabinet assembled!!!
« Reply #67 on: May 13, 2007, 08:48:44 pm »
Hello everyone,

It's been a while since I've updated my project.  The main reason being that I didn't work on it for a week.  I've spent all my free time on the Vivarium  (which is now assembled and ready for sanding...).

So here's the uroMAMEstyx update.

When I woke up Saturday and looked outside, the weather was so nice that I didn't want to stay inside.  Especially in the garage or workshop.  Since I wanted to work on the uroMAMEstyx, I decided to take my stuff outside in the yard.

Man, taking all the tools and wood out takes a long time, but I couldn't resist the urge to take some sun  >:D

So I marked all the pieces and was ready to start the lower part of the cabinet assembly!
I clamped the 2 side panels with the bottom piece, and did my first countersink hole....  Woooo!  What a feeling!  Well maybe not, after all it's just a hole (pic#1)  :dunno

I rose the floor (bottom panel) a bit because I want to use wheels and want them to be (almost) hidden. (pic#2).

Once the side panels screwed to the bottom panel, I added panel, after panel.  You can see on the picture a close up of the lower back of the cabinet.  (I've modified the original UAII plans so that angle pieces joint are flush when assembled.  ie for a 45 deg joint, each piece edges are at 22.5 deg) (pic#3)

Here I'd like to thank my helper Mika for always looking at me while I was on the patio (pic#4).

Another shot of the cab progression, the TV shelf is on  :cheers: (pic#5).

Finally, the last piece who gave me the most trouble to adjust, was the drawer.  I had to modify the UAII plans to get rid of the huge drawer that I didn't like.  Furthermore, my over/under coin door couldn't fit with the original drawer.  After thinking for a while, I've decided to center the coin in the front panel (vertically).
(pic#6 + pic#7)

What's left to do with the lower part of the cabinet?
- wood filler + sanding to hide imperfections + countersunk screws
- install wheels under the cab
- solidify the bottom panel (add few angled brackets or pieces of mdf) since it will be the one supporting all the weight (in the original UAII, the side panels were supporting the whole cab...)

That's it for the weekend.

Good night everyone!!
Jay
:cheers:

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uroMAMEstyx : computer ordered + light guns (2007.05.17)
« Reply #68 on: May 18, 2007, 12:56:02 am »
Quick update of the project uroMAMEstyx.

I didn't do much in the last week, because I spent all my time working on the vivarium.

Aaaah the uroVIVAstyx... I'm already at my second built. 
To make a short story, the first one didn't fit in the stairway/doorway...  :banghead:
Don't know how I missed that!!!
To read the long story, here's the link again : http://www.repticzone.com/forums/Uromastyx/messages/1227088.html

As for the uroMAMEstyx,

Found The Computer!!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------
I've finally ordered my computer.  I've got a
HP A1630N AMD Athlon 64 X2 4600+ 2.4GHz, 2GB ram, 250GB HD.
I had some sort of deal with my mastercard which gave me an additional 100$ rebate on the computer.  So I guess, it's an OK deal.
http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?sku_id=0926INGFS10087070&catid=20217&logon=&langid=EN

Found The Guns!!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------
I found an online store to get LCD topgun in Canada.  For those interested, they sell them for 45$ US.  Here's the link: http://www.gamersection.ca/.  You can pick them up if you are in the Montreal area (5$) or they'll ship it to you for 12$ (for 2 guns).

I went with these, because I didn't want to pay 100$+ for the actlabs TV versions and also, because I have an XBOX + 54" giant screen. Since each gun comes with a set of LED, and that regardless of the number of gun you are using, you only need 1 set of LED per TV, I'm gonna install the LED on the cabinet and on the 54" TV.  So I'll be able to play HOD3 on the big TV ;D

So for roughly 120$ Canadian for 2 guns that I'll be able to use on both my xbox + uroMAMstyx, I guess it all right!

So that's about it.
Good night everyone.
It's 01h00AM and my eyes are burning  :dizzy:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : computer + light guns ordered (2007.05.17)
« Reply #69 on: May 18, 2007, 09:36:13 am »
Here is a link to the product page for the LCD TopGun.

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Hello everyone,

it's been a long time since I've worked on my project.  I've spent the last few days rebuilding the vivarium...
So far, the vivarium is fully assembled, The next steps are to stain/varnish it and install the glasses and do the electrical stuff...

As for the uroMAMEstyx, here's the progress:

- I've received the guts (pic#1). 
I'm using my old PC monitor to do my testing/setup until I get a graphic card to output svideo to the TV. 
BTW: I intend to go with an ATI radeon chipset.  I was thinking getting a X1300. 
Is that a good choice?  Any recommendation?

- I've received my 2 EMS TopGuns (pic#2). 
I will probably test them on my xbox this weekend.  The PC test will be later when the
CPU is setup. As you may have read, the guns actually look more like plastic than metal
(like on the box picture).  But I think they still look good. 

When I babysit my nephews, the oldest one (9 years old) always want to play to Halo on my xbox, but since my sister don't really appreciate the "mature theme" of the game, he's not allowed to play (in fact, I'm not allowed to let him play).  Wait till she sees him shooting zombies with realistic looking guns  >:D (I'm just kidding sister...)

As for the cabinet assembly.  In the original UAII plans, the first panels they assemble are the upper side panels screwed into the base of the cabinet with 6 screws on both side.  Since I already laminated the upper sides with stainless steel, it's obvious I can't use screws through the SS, so I decided to use a combination of wood and metal brackets (pic#3). 

It took me a long time to figure out where to install the brackets in order to simplify the final assembly of the upper and lower part of the cabinet and have a solid cabinet.

The wood brackets are used wherever I was able to since I consider them to be more stable that the metal one (more surface for support) (pic#4).  I used glue + screws.

The metal brackets are used when the wood bracket might be too visible.  I used the for the top panel and speaker shelf, since using wood bracket would have been visible in the marquee (pic#5). 

Finally, I used a combination of wood + metal brackets for the side panel at the TV shelf level (pic#6).  The wood brackets are there to align the upper part on the base when it will ready to assemble (the wood brackets will lay down on the TV shelf).  The metal brackets are there to secure the top panel on the base.  So far, I'm using 4 brackets per side.  I hope this will be solid enough  :dizzy:

However, I think when I'll need to move the cabinet (like across stairs) and need to incline the cabinet, I won't take any chance and will disassemble the 2 part on case something breaks...  So I'll plan the marquee and side logo lighting connection accordingly....

Here I see my self with a friend moving that huge thing.  I hold the base, my friend hold the top, then CRRRRAAAACK, the 8 screws give up, the cabinet split into 2 part, the CP is crushed, the TV explodes, The TV glass breaks, the speakers implodes, The CPU takes into fire ... and I ... start crying  :cry:

If you have some recommendation for the assembly or for the graphic card, please let me know.

As you see, it's not much, but it's still progressing  :dunno

That's all for tonight.  I'm going to bed  :cheers:

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uroMAMEstyx : 2 steps forward, 1 setp back (2007.05.25)!!!
« Reply #71 on: May 25, 2007, 09:48:45 am »
Wll the tittle says it all...

I took a step back last night.

I was about to install all the mounting brackets on the other side pannel and start thinking on how to install the LEDs for the LCD top gun.  After taken a measurement, I think I found something that will allow me to mount them on the side of the TV.  It will be a thight fit with roughly 1/8in of margin to fit everything.

TV width + topgun led width X 2 + glass mounting bracket X 2 < tv shelf width
25 1/4 + 11/16 x 2 + 3/8 x2 = 27 3/8 < 27.5  ouf!...

I've included a jpg describing what I have in mind

This will imply that I wont be able to use a monitor bezel.  So I'll use a tinted glass with 1/2 aluminium 90deg molding.  Everything behind the glass will be black, so it should have a clean look.

So last night, I've removed the glass bracket and also the tv shelf bracket.  The were glued + screwed, so I had to do a bit of sanding to clean it up.

I should be able to complete the top module assembly this weekend.
Hopefully everything will be a snug fit.  I won't use glue for the glass bracket since I might have to trim is a bit...
As usual, Friday night is my day off  :cheers:

PS: I also played a bit with the PC.  Didn't do much.  I basically did the OS updates and burned my recovery disks.  I'll start the system clean up also this weekend.

PPS: As for the graphic card, I'm gonna get a pcie rad x1300.  It should be more than enough to play all mame/daphnee and some pc pinball games...

Good day!


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Re: uroMAMEstyx : changed my mind again... (2007.05.25)!!!
« Reply #72 on: May 25, 2007, 09:06:04 pm »
After thinking about my new mounting technique.  I've decided to choose an even simpler way to mount the topgun leds.

On the TV directly, how they are meant to be mounted!

I'm still gonna use 3/8 material as the glass side mounting bracket, but the top gun will be mounted directly on the TV.

Simpler is better :)

more new tomorrow...

Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : 2 steps forward, step back (2007.05.25)!!!
« Reply #73 on: May 26, 2007, 01:01:03 am »
Great so far, looking forward to see how it all turns out!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : 2 steps forward, step back (2007.05.25)!!!
« Reply #74 on: May 26, 2007, 02:35:20 pm »
Looking good so far.

I can't wait to see how the Translucent Yellow Trackball looks.  I've been wanting to swap out the trackball in my cab for the yellow one, but I haven't seen any pictures of it yet.

I have the red one now, but it's just too orange for me...

Homer Simpson:
"Here's to alcohol, the cause of, and solution to, all life's problems."

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : 2 steps forward, step back (2007.05.25)!!!
« Reply #75 on: May 26, 2007, 10:08:09 pm »
Thanks for the encouragement Stuckpixel and Chigago Dave  :cheers:

I can't wait to see how the Translucent Yellow Trackball looks.  I've been wanting to swap out the trackball in my cab for the yellow one, but I haven't seen any pictures of it yet.
I'll try to take the time to hook 3 leds underneath the trackball to give you a shot of it lit.
I'm curious too to see how it looks when lit.
When they are unlit, the buttons and trackball are not impressive at all (especially the tb...)
come back in a few days  ;)

PS: a fiend of mine will try to come up with a logo for my project.
Can't wait to see it.  If it's ok, which I'm pretty sure it will, I'll only have to vectorize it...  :notworthy:

Jay

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uroMAMEstyx : cabinet assembled (2007.05.27)!!!
« Reply #76 on: May 27, 2007, 07:24:22 pm »
Hourray!  I've got a full size cabinet now....  Still a lot of work to do, but this step is important  :cheers:

First, I've revised and simplify a bit the mounting brackets for the upper side panels assembly (pic#1).

On the second picture, you can see the first side panel ready to install with its LED ring installed (pic#2) .

Then I assembled both side panels together and connected the LED rings to see how it look (pic#3).

For the next step, I tought for a while if I should do it now or wait for someone to give me a hand to lift this thing...  This the kind of step you decide to do alone and suddenly, something goes wrong, you drop the whole thind and end up with a huge scratch on the stainless steel... 
Well, I was too anxious to see the full size cab, so I took my time to prepare for an easy lift off  >:D
Hopefully, everything went as plan and you can see the cab assembled (pic#4) without any new scratches.
I was impressed on how the 2 parts are stable, even if the upper part is not secured yet on the base. 
I guess taking my time to plan the assembly paid off  ;)

Then, before going further, I installed the TV in its enclosure and make sure everything fits.  I also installed the EMS Topgun Leds to see if, as plan, they would fit snugly.  Well....  :cheers: (pic#5)

And finally, I decided to do a side logo to see if the yellow LED rings would be bright enough for what I had in mind.  My plan is to use the side logo printed on backlit paper or vinyl squeezed between am 1/8 white plexi and 1/8 transparent plexi.  The white plexi is to diffuse the yellow light.  As you can see on the last picture (pic#6), I'm not the artistic type.  Hopefully, my friend is way better than me for this stuff  ;D 

On this, I'm taking a break.  I just wanted to share with you my progresses.

PS: I got myself x1300 pcie 512Mb graphics card on eBay today at 50$ incl shipping.  That should be more than enough for the uroMAMEstyx.

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uroMAMEstyx : early trackball snapshots
« Reply #77 on: May 27, 2007, 09:23:31 pm »
I can't wait to see how the Translucent Yellow Trackball looks.  I've been wanting to swap out the trackball in my cab for the yellow one, but I haven't seen any pictures of it yet.
Hello Chicago Dave,
I took a quick snapshot of the trackball unlit and lit with its 12V stock lamp.

Unlit, the trackball is yellow with a slight tint of green. (pic#1)

Lit with the stock lamp, the green tint switches to an orange tint.
Depending on the zoom used on my Canon SD300, the trackball color appears to yellow  (pic#2 : zoom out) or orange (pic#3 : zoom in).  To the naked eye, the TB lit looks yellow with a slight orange tint. (like pic#2, but slightly more orange)

... but it's just too orange for me...
I think Happ is into a conspiracy.  All their trackballs are Orange when lit, regardless of their original colors   :dizzy:

I'll try to get better pictures when I'll do trials with my yellow leds which should be ultimately used to lit all buttons and the track ball.

That's it.  Good night  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : cabinet assembled (2007.05.27)!!!
« Reply #78 on: May 27, 2007, 11:07:02 pm »
Thanks for the pics!  If the trackball looks like your middle picture it will be great. 

Your bottom picture doesn't look much different from my translucent red ball.  Weird....

Homer Simpson:
"Here's to alcohol, the cause of, and solution to, all life's problems."

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : cabinet assembled (2007.05.27)!!!
« Reply #79 on: May 28, 2007, 06:44:08 am »
Hello ChicagoDave,

the tb definitively looks more like the 2nd pic, but still have a slight orange ting to it.
Somehow, when I try to zoom to much with the camera, the color switches from yellow to orange ... like if the CCD saturates  :dizzy:

Anyways, like I said, I'll do more testing with the yellow LEDs later his week, so stay tune.

Have a nice Day
Jay  :cheers:

  
 

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