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| uroMAMEstyx : Project done (2007.12.10) |
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| superbigjay:
All right, back on the uroMAMEstyx progress. As of today, the cab is playable, but I still have plenty of things to do... LED connection ----------------------------------- Each buttons (29) has a LED that will be controlled by the LEDWIZ. So here's how I did my connections... 1. Plan where you're gonna mount the LEDWIZ (and other components : gnd, 5v, 12v, keywiz, coindoor circuit, P1 joysticks protection circuit) When you think everything makes sens, you can install them... 2. Plan how you're gonna do the electrical connections. Plan your switch connection, the Led control connection and the daisy chain ground connection 3. Choose your color code. Try to pick good colors, or not so good depending on what wire color you have available... In my case, I chose these colors: - green : ground - yellow(blue) : led control (I changed my mind half way...) - blue : button switch control - orange : joystick switch control Then, prepare all wire/led/quick connectors In my case, I needed to bend the LED legs, so they can fit right next to each other. 4. Prepare you LED resistors. Calculate your resistor based on the formula: Led_Voltage = Power_Supply_Voltage - (Resistor_Value * Led_Current) In my case, the LED Voltage is 3.3-3.6V and the current is 20mA per LED. Since I'm connecting them in pair (40mA), I'll use 39 Ohms resistors. 5. Crimp the connector and solder the resistor on the control wire. One end includes a female connector and the resistor. The other end will go to the LEDWIZ screw terminal. Cut the length a bit longer than you really need for now. On the next picture, you barely see the resistor. It is hidden by the red plastic thing on the connector. 6. Prepare the LED connectors. These will connect in parallel 2 LEDs together and uses the green/blue color code. - take 2 wires - remove part of the plastic shield. - twist the 2 wire together - insert the twisted wire in the "positive" male connector - crimp the wire - add a touch of solering *** On the picture, I've inverted the crimp/soldering steps, but you should get the idea. Then check that the crimping/soldering is solid enough be pulling on the wire to see if you have a solid connection. 7. Solder the LEDS to the wire 8. Test your Dual LED connection Connect your LED to your 5V to see if it works. If so, great, if not, redo your homework ;) *** In my case, I used my 13.8 power supply, so I added an extra resistor to adjust the voltage. Jay :cheers: |
| superbigjay:
Another update... Lot of pictures to post... TRACKBALL LED ASSEMBLY ------------------------------------------------ This post is to show how I replaced the original lamp from the TB by 6 leds. 1. Remove the old lamp mounting bracket 2. Find a mounting bracket. I used an old CD cover to mount the bracket. I wanted to use a scrap piece of plexi, but couldn't find any scrap piece, and was too lazy to cut it. 3. Mark the mounting plate Place the mounting plate where the old light bracket was. Make sure it cover the "light" hole and the mounting screw hole. Then mark where you want the LED to be and also the mounting screw. Finally, cut your plate to the desired shape and drill the led holes 4. Solder the wires to the LED One small wire per led leg (yellow/green color code). 5. Assemble the leds in pair. In my case, I wanted to reuse the same resistors, so I connected them in pair. Then you add 1 resistor per pair and solder/crimp them together with a male connector Now is a good time to test the LED by applying 5V on them... 6. Assemble the LEDs on the mounting plate. Using hot glue, insert the LEDS in their holes and secure them into place using hot glue. Verify again the LEDs are still working. If so, great, If not, swear a bit and back to work. 7. screw the mounting plate on the trackball. Jay :cheers: |
| superbigjay:
2 more update to go... Joystick protection circuit ------------------------------- On my CP, I have 2 joystick for Player 1. - happ Perfect 360 (dedicated 8-way) - miss pac man reunion (dedicated 4-way) I want to connect them to the same inputs on the encoder. Since the P360 is an optical joystick. It's behavior is not the same as the regular microswitches the microswitch states are: - Pressed : The NO pin is shorted to the COM pin (grounded) - Released : the NO pin is OPEN The P360 has some driver instead of switches: - Active : The buffer drives 0V - Inactive : ??? When the P360 is inactive, I'm not sure exactly what the buffer outputs (5V, Open, HiZ (weak 5V)) If the P360's were open collector (Open) type buffer (not sure here if this is the right word), then, shorting the 2 joystick pin together wouldn't be a problem. If the P360's isn't open collector (5V or Hiz), then activating the 4 way (gnd) vs the unused 8-way would cause contention: - the P360 tries to drive 5V - the 4-way short the pin ==> We end up the P360 driving a non negligible amount of current which will/might eventually "bust the buffer". So I found some really low voltage diodes (0.2V compare to 0,7V of the std 1N4104) and connected them to protect each one of the 4 P360 outputs... Did the soldering. the diodes are surface mount diode. So I only had a tiny surface to connect them. And finally, to secure them into place, I used my famous hot gun glue. Hot Glue is your friend... Jay |
| javeryh:
Effin awesome. :cheers: |
| superbigjay:
Last update... Coin door lighting ------------------------------- 1. Remove the old coin door lights Reuse the quick +/- connectors 2. prepare 3 Leds 3. glue them together 4. Test fit them in the coin door hole to see if they fit snugly. Adjust the size of your new "bulb" by adding/removing you friend "hot glue" 5. Solder to connectors Cut the LED legs Add a resistor - calculate value with the usual formula or - use the same as for 2 leds (the intensity would be reduce) 6. install the LED in the coin door The picture isn't so great, but you get the idea. The yellow leds give an orange look to the coin light which is cool since the whole cab main color is yellow. Jay :cheers: |
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