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Author Topic: uroMAMEstyx : Project done (2007.12.10)  (Read 38493 times)

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superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : Project done (2007.12.10)
« on: March 17, 2007, 12:12:09 pm »
Hello all,

A few months ago (jan 2006), a friend of mine started it's own Arcade project.  Knowing that I was someone who always has a project in mind, he was sending me pictures and stories about the progression of his project  :blah:...

I didn't take long before I decided that BYOA would be on my list of next projects  >:D

So July 1st 2006, I took the first step : I bought the ARCADE PROJECT book and start reading...

The next months were taken to look at different project annoucements, try to figure out the CP layout and finish my ongoing project : kitchen renovations...

23 Dec 2006 : Kitchen is done (just before Christmas : we had 20 family members coming over)

Feb 1st 2007:
I have a good idea of the CP layout, the components I'll use.  But I still haven't found the arcade theme.  Without it, I can't start ordering stuff, since I don't know the "accent" color.

March 2nd 2007:
There's the "salon des reptiles" in Montreal (you can guess the translation here).  We (girlfriend and I) bring my 2 nephews to it.  We spent a few hours looking at many different kind of lizards.  Finally my girlfriend tells me : It would be nice to have a Lizard at home.  If the vivarium is nice, it could be used to decorate the living room

==> Lizard and desert theme!!!

(I don't know if you see the power of that theme)

At this moment, I looked in my girlfriend big beautiful blue eye and told her:
   As usual, you have an excellent idea!
   I will buid a nice wooden/glass vivarium (4 feet long) in one corner.
   On the wall we already have 2 wooden lamps (a turtle and a lizard)
   And on the other corner, we could put the Arcade with a Lizard theme !

Do I have to tell you what was the first reaction of my girlfriend when I told her I wanted to build an arcade the first time?  But this time, it didn't seem to bother her  :notworthy:

The power of that theme is that not only I was finally able to choose the color for the arcade parts and start spending money, but I could put the arcade directly in the living room!!!  :cheers:

------------------------------------------------
So here's the general idea:
------------------------------------------------
- lizard/desert theme (accent color : YELLOW)
- cabinet based on UAII with slight modifications : I don't like the drawer..
  + happ 2 player coin door (received)
  + stainless steel cabinet side : 4x8 sheet 0.024" (received)
  + 12" or 15" Yellow neon rings to light circular logos on the side like on NEON mame
      (might have to go another route, since the only 2 places I could find them online
      were out of stock and couldn't get more from company).
      :banghead:
- 2 players cp
  + no spiner (there no games that uses spiner that I really love)
  + transluscent yellow trackball (received)
  + transluscent pushbuttons (received)
  + 2 mag-stik plus :no need to have a dedicated 4-way joystick
     (not ordered yet, might go with 2 happ 360 + dedicated 4-way)

As you see, I'm not re-inventing the well.  Just re-using ideas  :laugh:

------------------------------------------------
Choosing the name:
------------------------------------------------
The Lizard requirements were:
- vegetarian (girlfriend doesn't like mouse, crickets and even less worms)
- docile (for beginner)
- good size (12-24 inches)

==> Mali/niger Uromastyx

This is how I ended up with the name "uroMAMEstyx". 

------------------------------------------------
The lizard vivarium
------------------------------------------------
The lizard vivarium will probaly have a small logo with the name on it "uroVIVAstyx"

The vivarium features are:
- 4 feet long
- 18 inches wide
- roughly 16 inches high
It will be a 2 story vivarium.  Some kind of deluxe penthouse for lizard.
The final dimensions should be something like: 48Lx18Wx48H

I'll probably start a thread on another forum for the vivarium.
If there's some interest for it, I'll post the link...

PS: for the neon ring problem, I already have another thread:
"trouble finding a yellow neon speaker ring 12-15in (or alternative)" in the Main Forum.
(don't know how to insert a link to it...)


If any of you have a suggestion, please don't hesitate to post.


NOTE: English is my second language, so I'm sorry if there're many errors
« Last Edit: December 10, 2007, 03:22:20 pm by superbigjay »

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #1 on: March 17, 2007, 01:47:46 pm »
  + 12" or 15" Yellow neon rings to light circular logos on the side like on NEON mame
      (might have to go another route, since the only 2 places I could find them online
      were out of stock and couldn't get more from company).
      :banghead:

...

PS: for the neon ring problem, I already have another thread:
"trouble finding a yellow neon speaker ring 12-15in (or alternative)" in the Main Forum.
(don't know how to insert a link to it...)

If any of you have a suggestion, please don't hesitate to post.

FYI:
The neon ring issue is now resolved.
Knievel suggested to use some LED strips.  This is what I'll do.

PS:
my last project (kitchen) started in march 2006 and was supposed to be done in about 1-2 months.  My girlfriend looked like this in dec 2006 : 
   :angry:

The deadline for this project is june 2007, because I need to build a fence for the dogs this summer.  We'll see how the schedule hold up!

Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #2 on: March 17, 2007, 02:23:11 pm »
If you want to avoid having a dedicated 4-way joystick I would recommend using an Ultimarc U360 or find a used Midway 49-way or get a Happ 49-way stick and get the GPWiz49 interface from Groovy Game Gear.  Both of these options give you the ability to program the stick for multiple setups, 8-way, 4-way, 4-way diagonal, 2-way vertical or horizontal.  These options also have additional setups depending on the vendor.  If you weren't on a time table I'd suggest waiting for Randy at Groovy Game Gear to release his new 49-way joystick and interface.

I would also recommend that you steer away from the mag-sticks.  I own their predecessors the T-Sticks and I was very unhappy with their performance in 8-way mode.  With the restrictor set in 4-way mode they make an excellent dedicated 4-way stick though.

TTFN  :cheers:
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #3 on: March 17, 2007, 05:52:28 pm »
I would also recommend that you steer away from the mag-sticks. 

Thanks for the warning Kaytrim.  I'll keep that in mind. 

Since most joystick use the same hole size in the CP, I can start finalizing the CP layout without knowing exactly which joystick I'll be using...

Those 49-ways look interesting!!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #4 on: March 17, 2007, 09:57:47 pm »
You will want to be a little careful about getting buttons too close to the stick because of the mounting plate of the joystick.  Do a Google for a program called CPSketch.  This will help you with layout spacing and CP size. 

If you are going to go with a 49-way and plan on mounting it under the CP you will need a hole slightly bigger than a standard button.  The larger hole is needed because the stick has a longer throw.  Most other sticks have shorter throws and can use a 1 1/8" button hole.  The other option is to flush mount the stick to the top of the CP.  You will need to route or chisel part of the wood away so the top of the mounting plate is flush with the top of the CP.  I would wait to cut your CP until you get all your parts together then make a mock up out of cardboard to get the feel of how they controls are laid out.

TTFN  :cheers:
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #5 on: March 17, 2007, 10:26:44 pm »
I'd be extra sure that vivarium is escape proof if your going to put it next to your cab .
When I was living in Houston, I owned a number of lizards over the years. Reptiles have a love/hate relationship with electronics. Being cold blooded, they tend to seek out anything warm, then take a nap on it. This by itself isn't a problem, but their favorite thing to do when they wakeup is take a crap. I've have lizard poo destroy monitors and motherboards. I'd hate it if a poo destroyed my cab. I've attached a picture of my favorite little motherboard killer (just to show you how cute he was). He was an Australian frilled lizard named "They".
« Last Edit: March 17, 2007, 10:52:39 pm by zenmasterbooty »

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2007, 11:17:21 am »
...
If you are going to go with a 49-way and plan on mounting it under the CP you will need a hole slightly bigger than a standard button.  The larger hole is needed because the stick has a longer throw.
...
Thanks Kaytrim, I'll keep that in mind.  I won't cut any joystick hole before I know for sure which joystick I'm gonna use...


I'd be extra sure that vivarium is escape proof if your going to put it next to your cab .
...
I've have lizard poo destroy monitors and motherboards. I'd hate it if a poo destroyed my cab.
:laugh2:
Zenmasterbooty,
I'll make sure the viv is escape proof and that the cab is PooPoo Proof...

I need to clean up the work place and install a real door for the dust.  Right now I have some sort of "ventilated door".  Since the workplace is right next to my cpu room and home theater system, I always end up with a lot of dust going through the  :soapbox: door which is not that great for all the electronics...  I'll probably do this next week.

After that, the project assembly should really start.

BTW, how do we insert picture in post?  I tried the tag "insert image" to upload a picture from my HD, but didn't know what to do next.  :dunno



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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #7 on: March 18, 2007, 01:46:19 pm »
Open the additional options.  Then you can upload images from your HD.  Just keep in mind that the images must be under 512 KB.  There are a few other limitations but that is all listed right there.

TTFN  :cheers:
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #8 on: March 18, 2007, 09:01:20 pm »
Open the additional options.  Then you can upload images from your HD. 

All right, trial to show my "not so good" door against dust...
Thanks Kaytrim for the info!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #9 on: March 18, 2007, 09:05:51 pm »
No problem, good luck on the build.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #10 on: March 22, 2007, 09:19:22 am »
All right, here'a a status on the project...

These are the parts I have right now:

4'x8' Sheet of Stainless Steel 1/40in thick (see picture)
==================================================
   It will be used to laminate the side pannel of the cabinet.
   got it from a friend who works in a metal sheet distributor

Happ coin door (see picture)
==================================================
   got it used on ebay.
   It needs some minor paint touch-up, but seems in good order.
   It came with 2 different US coin mech.  I had to modify them to
   accept canadian quarters.  The modification was simple enough.
   Can and US quarter are similar in size, but differ in weight.

   What I did on the "more recent coin mech" (black and grey) is to remove
   the small magnet from its enclosure.  Instead og throwing it away, I decided
   to "stick it" on the other side of the metal piece that was holding it.
   It can accept both CAN and US quarter, but I don't care since US money
   worth more than CAN  ;)
   Note that any washer with the right size would also work in this case,
   but since the arcade will my in my living room and that it will be my money,
   that shouldn't be a problem.

   For the one that seem a bit older (golden one), I tried to remove the
   magnet, but in  this case, all quarters (CAN and US) were rejected. 
   Eliminating completely the magnetic field in this case didn't work, since
   the quarter needs to be slightly deviated from its trajectory to fall in the
   right apperture.
   So I just added Glue (from a hot glue gun) to increase the distance
   between the magnet and the "coin chute" (where the coins pass...)
   The adjustment was done with trials and errors
   ==> put glue
   ==> try CAN quarter
   ==> If the quarter is held by the magnet, increase the distance (add glue)
   ==> If the quarter goes through but is rejected, decrease the distance (remove glue)
   The you get to the point where the CAN gets accepted all the time  :applaud:
   In this case, only CAN quarters are accepted.

translucent yellow push buttons and USB trackball (see picture)
==================================================
I got some transluscent pushbuttons and a usb trackball from Tornado Terry's.
I must say that the shopping experience with him was more than pleasing!
Fast respond time, Fast shipping!
The package was delivered at my work:
- I work on a computer all day
- I receive an USB trackball
==> It didn't take long to verify if the trackball was working or not  >:D

These are the part that are ordered, but not received yet:
- LED strips to illuminated the circular logos on the side of the cab
  I'd like to thank Knievel for the idea (it was supposed to be a yellow neon,
  but they seem to be almost impossible to find these day!)
- Bag of yellow LEDs to illuminate the pushbuttons and trackball.
- Joysticks (2 happ 360 and 1 reunion stick)

That's it for now folks.

This weekend I'll try to fix the  :censored: door for my work place...

Jay.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #11 on: March 22, 2007, 09:22:00 am »
Here're the pic for the trackball and pushbuttons.
I was exceeding the 512K limit...

Also, I've included a picture of an uromastyx around which the whole
living room theme is based...

cheers!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #12 on: March 22, 2007, 09:55:15 am »

Also, I've included a picture of an uromastyx around which the whole
living room theme is based...


So that is why everything is yellow.  :dizzy: I was thinking that you liked bananas. :laugh2:  Have fun with this build, I'll be watching.

TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #13 on: March 22, 2007, 11:14:07 pm »
Have you thought about building the vivarium into the base of the cab? 

How are you going to treat the stainless steel?  Keep it smooth & shiny, or sand some cool swirly patterns in?

What about lighting the trackball?  I had great success on my last project drilling three holes in the bottom of the trackball case, and glued the led's right in.  No need for an extra third party retainer or bracket.

Good luck on the build.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #14 on: March 23, 2007, 02:16:50 am »
Have you thought about building the vivarium into the base of the cab? 

The little guy would love the warmth, but the blasting sounds of the games echoing through the cab would stress him to an early grave.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #15 on: March 23, 2007, 09:29:16 am »
Have you thought about building the vivarium into the base of the cab? 
Nope!  I admit the WOW effect of having a live lizard in the base of the cab, or even in the top marquee would be great, but as zenmasterbooty said, I don't think he would appreciate the sound.  Also, these little guys grow to about 18 inch long...

I included a picture of a vivarium I saw at the "salon des reptiles".  My viv will probably look like it, but will be 2 storey. (put 2 of those on top of each other and you'll have an idea)

How are you going to treat the stainless steel?  Keep it smooth & shiny, or sand some cool swirly patterns in?
The stainless already have a "brushed" finish so I don't think adding pattern to it would give a good results.  I will probably use it as is since it is meant that way.

What about lighting the trackball?  I had great success on my last project drilling three holes in the bottom of the trackball case, and glued the led's right in.  No need for an extra third party retainer or bracket.
Aaaah I remember reading that post.  The LEDs directly in the TB case was a good idea  :cheers:.  My trackball already has a small light bulb installed.  I'll replace it with 3 yellow LEDs.  I'll do some testing to see how it looks when lit from below.  If the effect is nice, this is what I'll do since it's seem easier (I might even be able to reuse the actual retainer with a small mod).  If the lighting is bad, I'll try your idea.

Thanks for the feedback!!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #16 on: March 25, 2007, 06:13:38 pm »
This weekend I'll try to fix the  :censored: door for my work place...
All right, I was able to find some time this weekend to install the new door (I even had time to do a little clean up of the work place...).  With this, I should be able to work in the workshop without having dust everywhere  :applaud:

I'll probably stop by the hardware store sometime this week to get MDF sheets.  I'm not sure yet if I'll laminate or paint the base of the cabinet (black)...  Anyone has recommendation on this?

I'm supposed to receive my joysticks tuesday.  I will probably work on the CP layout, so I can post the first draft for feedback...

PS:
I went to one of my favorite store this weekend (cantire) and got myself a new  :tool:
A biscuit joiner...  I'm planning to use it for my vivarium assembly. 
Maybe it will be usefull for the cab assembly too...

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #17 on: March 26, 2007, 09:21:51 am »
Last friday, I've received some T-moldings.

I'll probably go with yellow, black or "chrome".
I'll see when the CP art is done...


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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #18 on: March 26, 2007, 10:35:47 pm »
Wow I'm jealous of your workshop... 

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #19 on: March 26, 2007, 10:40:39 pm »
Wow I'm jealous of your workshop... 

You are not the only one. :o  He even has a sink.  You might want to add weather stripping around that new door to make sure the dust stays in the shop and not the rest of the basement.

TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #20 on: March 27, 2007, 09:24:55 am »
You are not the only one. :o  He even has a sink.
Aaaah the sink...  You should have seen it saturday!  There were a lot of oil paint/varnish stain in it.  I had to use a bit of paint stripper with steel wool to get back that stainless look...

... You might want to add weather stripping around that new door to make sure the dust stays in the shop and not the rest of the basement.
I already installed a door sweep to cover the gap under the door, but I'll follow your advice and add weather stripping around the rest of it.  It will be a 5$/10 minutes well spent...  :cheers:
(I already lost a CD player and a DVD player because of dust...  :cry:)

PS: The joysticks were delivered to my office in Plattsburgh yesterday.  I should get them today in Montreal!!
PPS: I'm currently playing with sketchup.  I'll try to come up with 3D models of the arcade and the vivarium...

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #21 on: March 28, 2007, 10:42:22 pm »
I'm supposed to receive my joysticks tuesday.  I will probably work on the CP layout, so I can post the first draft for feedback...
:applaud: I just got the joysticks this afternoon  :applaud:
- 2 happ perfect 360
- 1 true 4-way joystick

Terry, at TornadoTerry's made me a special package for a 4-way joystick.  It's similar to the MsPacman 4-way joystick, but without the special adaptator and with different color knobs.

I wasn't sure yet if I should go with black (to match the 360's) or yellow, to match the theme main color...  :dunno
I'll see that later, when I'll work on the CP art.

Now, the only things missing on the electronic side is a keywiz and ledwiz.  I should be able to get everything I'm missing at GGG.

If you think of something I might have forgot, except for the TV and the CPU, let me know  :laugh:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #22 on: March 30, 2007, 09:33:21 pm »
All right.  It's Friday night, I just got back from work and stopped at the hardware store to get 3 sheets of MDF.

Aaaah MDF :  Medium-density fibreboard...

They should call it FHF for Freaking Heavy  :banghead:

The guy at the hardware help me to put them on the roof, but when I got home, I was all alone and I couldn't get a hold on my friend that live by (9h00PM, Friday night... I should have known  :hissy:

Anyways, I manage to get the sheets in he garage without breaking or scratching anything.

Plan for tomorrow: Cut and laminate the stainless steel side panels...

cheers!
Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #23 on: March 31, 2007, 12:34:42 am »
It will look even funnier when you try to lug the finished cab on top of your car.  Have a fun, dusty day.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #24 on: March 31, 2007, 09:41:27 am »
It will look even funnier when you try to lug the finished cab on top of your car.  Have a fun, dusty day.
Yeeeeeee! can't imagine that!! 
Now I understand why when people sells cab, they specify : PICKUP ONLY!!!  >:D
Man I though gyproc was heavy...

I'm just waking up, I'll take my famous "Cafe Late" from my Saeco Machine  :notworthy:
When I'll be awake, I'll stop at Loblaws to take the measurement (again) of the TV depth (It would kind of pissed me off if I end up with side panels that are "too short"). 
After that, a quick stop to get the glue/cement from the hardware store...

I hope everything will go as plan...

PS:
I've ordered my keywiz and ledwiz yesterday. 
I think I should get them in Montreal by the end of next week...  Can't wait to play with those...

PPS:
That make me think to make sure the base and top of the cabinet will fit in the stairs when
it will be time to get it from the basement workshop to the family room upstairs...
That situation happens to me once when I had to bring the big sofa in the basement.  I had to
remove the door and "enlarge" the entrance.
(In fact, it happens to me twice, since I had to bring it back upstairs when my ex-girlfriend left with it)  :laugh2:


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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #25 on: March 31, 2007, 05:00:32 pm »
I'll stop at Loblaws to take the measurement (again) of the TV depth (It would kind of pissed me off if I end up with side panels that are "too short").
Instead of taking the measurement, I decided to get the TV right away.  I got a Citizen JCTV2709.  It's a true flat screen 27" TV with s-video input.  That way, I'll be able to modify the UA2 plans for the depth if needed.

After that, a quick stop to get the glue/cement from the hardware store...
I got everything I need to do my laminate, but I decided to do some testing on mdf to see if everything works...

So the side panel cutting is postponed to early next week...   :-\

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #26 on: March 31, 2007, 10:42:33 pm »
wooooo!

I almost did a big mistake today for the laminate...   :timebomb:

The first picture is the layout recommended on the original ua2 plans to cut the top side panels
(the ratio aren't exact, but you'll get the idea).
This is fine for cutting the mdf, but when have have material with 1 finished side, that layout doesn't work (you'll end up with 2 left sides or 2 right side).

This usually ends up with a line like:
WTF...  Why do I have 2 right panels  :dizzy: ??? :-\ :-[ :'( :cry::hissy::badmood::banghead::angry::soapbox:

In order to cut the pieces with a finished side correctly, one of the piece must be inverted. 
The only way the fit on a single 4x8 sheet are shown in the second picture.  As you see, there isn't any margin left.

Hopefully, the mdf sheets are 4'1"x8'1" (extra inch on both side), so by being really careful, I should be able to align
the stainless steel sheet properly.  If not, well, I'll have to buy an extra sheet (80$CAN)...

This is the kind of error I usually do...  If I'm lucky, I'll get it right the first time!!


More news in a few days...
« Last Edit: March 31, 2007, 10:52:26 pm by superbigjay »

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #27 on: March 31, 2007, 11:02:28 pm »
WTF...  Why do I have 2 right panels  :dizzy: ??? :-\ :-[ :'( :cry::hissy::badmood::banghead::angry::soapbox:
...well, I'll have to buy an extra sheet (80$CAN)...
This is the kind of error I usually do...  If I'm lucky, I'll get it right the first time!!
I think we all have a few extra right panels (or functional equivalents) to our credit.  Good job avoiding this one.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #28 on: April 06, 2007, 10:44:53 pm »
All right, it's friday night.  Here a small update and some pictures...

As I said, I got a 27" TV last saturday.  The TV is shown on the first pictures.  With this I know how wide the cab needs to be...

The others pictures illustrate the setup for the stainless steel laminate...
- contact glue and brush
- blower.  Faster than a broom to get rif of dust in the garage!  ;D
- a mdf sheet and a stainless steel sheet
- a breating mask to prevent headaches (looking good  :laugh2:)

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #29 on: April 06, 2007, 11:04:33 pm »
Friday night part 2 (I was exceeding the number of pictures per post...)

Tonight, my friend Ben came over to help me with the laminate. (Ben is my friend who I couldn't get a hold on for the MDF  ;))

Anyways, we completed the lamination process
- 1 coat of primer on MDF (Wednesday) : let dry 24 hrs
- 1 coat of contact glue on MDF (Thursday) : let dry 24 hrs
- 1 coat of contact glue on MDF + SS : let dry 20-45 min, install SS over MDF and align everyting.
- inspect laminated SS and scientifically remove any air bubble left with the "FOOT technique"  :laugh:

I'm gonna leave it rest under the remaining 2 sheets of MDF for 24-48 before attempting the first cut.

I know the pics might be boring right now, but I try to document all steps of the project  :angel:

.Tomorrow is "cabane a sucre" time.  I'll probably cut the side panels sunday.

Then I'll have some real PIC to show you guys!!!

Jay

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uroMAMEstyx first cut!!
« Reply #30 on: April 12, 2007, 12:06:39 am »
Late night update....

First of all, I've received my Keyboard encoder and my LED controller.  I didn't had time to play with it yet, but I can't wait to try it...

As for the cabinet progress... 

I've drawn all the cut lines for the 2 stainless side panels yesterday and did my first cut on it...

To cut the MDF + SS I'm using my Bosch jigsaw along with Bosch metal blades 36 TPI.

On the first cut, I thought that the plastic film protection would be enough to protect the SS from scratches... Well   :angry:

As you see on the picture, while I was cutting, some of the SS got stuck underneath the jigsaw and left some marks on the SS.  I should have known better... Especially that my friend told me last week about this issue  :banghead:
I guess, I'll have to live with it : There will be some scratches on the bottom of the right panel...
For the other cuts, I've used masking tape to protect the SS.  So far it worked well.

I'm almost done with the first panel.  I'll post pics probably Friday or Saturday of the 2 side panels...

sweet dreams!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #31 on: April 12, 2007, 12:19:15 am »
Next time you might want to cut the wood first then apply the laminate or steel.   Then you can cut the laminate with a flush cutter bit for a router.  Use tin snips and a file for the steel.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #32 on: April 12, 2007, 02:50:37 am »
Next time try putting a couple of strips of duct tape on the bottom plate of your jigsaw.  An old trick I picked up from an old man.

If those are the only scratches you get in the SS during the build, consider yourself lucky.  Good luck with the rest of the build.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #33 on: April 12, 2007, 08:24:31 am »
have you designed your viv yet , i built a nice one for a bearded dragon 3 yrs ago , got some nice ideas if ur interested.
got COLOR codes from projects, post them here

add stuff to the uk wiki section

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #34 on: April 12, 2007, 09:22:58 am »
Next time you might want to cut the wood first then apply the laminate or steel.  Then you can cut the laminate with a flush cutter bit for a router.  Use tin snips and a file for the steel.
Thanks Kaytrim for the advice.
The Stainless steel is 0.024" thick (1/40 in).  It's relatively thin, but I think it still too thick (and hard) to get a nice cut with tin snips.  As for the router solution, maybe it would work with aluminum since its a soft metal, but I doubt it would trim the SS...  Before going the jigsaw route, I asked for a submission for a SS sheet + cuts and it was about 300$... a bit expensive  :-\... 
So this is why I ended up with the jigsaw  :blah:


Next time try putting a couple of strips of duct tape on the bottom plate of your jigsaw.  An old trick I picked up from an old man.
Hello Coder,
the scratches were not cause by the bottom plate of the jigsaw, but by some metal rip/dust/pieces (not sure how to call it  ???) from the cut that got stuck under the plate...  By using duct tape, you would protect the SS from the jigsaw plate, but it would no prevent metal rip/dust/pieces (still not sure how to call it) to go underneath the plate.  In fact, the duct tape might even hold more metal rip/dust/pieces (sh...t what's the name...).  Right??  :dunno


If those are the only scratches you get in the SS during the build, consider yourself lucky.  Good luck with the rest of the build.
As you said, if these are the only scratches, I can live with them  :cheers:


have you designed your viv yet , i built a nice one for a bearded dragon 3 yrs ago , got some nice ideas if ur interested.
Hey Polaris,
I could use any advice you have on this matter, since I'm quite a newbie on that too...
You can send me a PM since the viv is not really relevant for this forum (unless others would like to know) or post directly on one of these 2 threads: they're basically the same thread on 2 different forums...
http://www.repticzone.com/forums/Uromastyx/messages/1227088.html
http://www.reptilerooms.com/forumtopic-48923.html

The status on the uroVIVAstyx is:
- 3D model done
- plans completed
- wood cut

The dimensions are roughly 59x26, 2-storey...  8)

If you have any input on this, I could really use your help  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #35 on: April 12, 2007, 09:56:23 am »
hope ive got this right
got COLOR codes from projects, post them here

add stuff to the uk wiki section

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #36 on: April 12, 2007, 10:03:01 am »
wasnt sure if i could attatch the pic.
see the red line thats a piece of timber , the light brown line represents the velcro, you attatch the opposite velcro to a piece of glass and it just holds on, i had a 2 ft bearded dragon that used to launch at the glass an it never even moved.
so youd have four doors which are easy to remove , much less fiddly than the sliders.
really bad pic but this is the only one of the dragon sleeping upright holding what would be the red piece i indicated on the pic.
reckon its ok to post bout this here, its as close to an arcade machine as a card table is.
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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #37 on: April 12, 2007, 01:10:33 pm »
Thanks Polaris for the velcro tip.
when come the time, I'll test both (sliding + velcro) to see which solution
I prefer...
My only concern with the velcro solution is that you will see it through the window...  That's the only drawback (cosmetic) I see for that solution...

Quote from: polaris link=topic=64434.msg659274#msg659274
date=1176386581
really bad pic but this is the only one of the dragon
sleeping upright holding what would be the red piece i indicated on the
pic.
hmmmm I'm not sure Rascal is really sleeping.
Have you seen the picture taken few minutes after you left...  :laugh2:

If you have any more advice/picture, let me know here or via a PM. :cheers:




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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #38 on: April 12, 2007, 01:15:20 pm »
 :laugh2:
bless him i dont think hes ever seen a lady dragon.

the velcro looks quite clean through the glass as your looking at the back of it so its smooth i glued it on with epoxy glue, ill see if i can get a photo from its present owner, i used cream velcro , it follows the lines of the cab around the edges if you get me, not unlike t molding
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uroMAMEstyx : First 2 pieces of the cabinet.
« Reply #39 on: April 12, 2007, 11:46:24 pm »
Yeah! I finally have my first 2 pieces for the uroMAMEstyx cabinet!  :applaud: (You can see them in the pic below). 

I've left the protective film on because I still have to cut a 14" circle in each panel for my side LOGO.  In fact, I will probably leave it on until the last minute...

Tonight, everything went well.  No surprises, no extra scratches were added to the project.  :cheers:
Before each cut, I was removing all dust from the panel and applied 2 ply of masking tape.
Again, you can see the masking tape on one of the picture.

BTW, I received all my LEDs today.  I got one pack of 100's yellow LEDs and 8 feet of LED strip.  The LED strip will be used to illuminate the side LOGO.

Here, I'd like to thank Knieviel for the LED strip suggestion to replace the yellow neon ring that I couldn't find anywhere  :notworthy:

Here the general idea for the side logo.
- cut 14" hole in the panel.
- mount 4 feet of LED strip along the circonference of the hole
- flush mount one white plexi and one clear plexi (transparent plexi will be flush with SS surface)
- insert LOGO between the white and clear plexis

This will give and illuminated LOGO that will be flush with the side panel surface.  It's kind of a side marquee  ;D

Oh and before I go, I'd also like to thanks all those jigsaw blades that gave their best at doing what they do best : cutting metal!!!  Rest assure, your sacrifice will not be forgotten :P

Enough for tonight.... It's getting late!

Bonne nuit!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #40 on: April 13, 2007, 12:11:11 am »
...more metal rip/dust/pieces (sh...t what's the name...). 
I believe they are called "chips".

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #41 on: April 13, 2007, 08:36:59 am »
I believe they are called "chips".
Aaah! that's it! thanks  ;)

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uroMAMEstyx : side pannel finishing part 1
« Reply #42 on: April 15, 2007, 10:00:57 pm »
Hello everyone,

I spent some time Saturday to work on the stainless steel side panels.

First, I did some trial to find a way to smooth the edges..

First, I tried a rust removal sponge (pic#1).  This wasn't a good idea at all.  It didn't do a good and and also left a bunch of scratches on the stainless (pic#2)...
 
Then I tried this combination of wood block (pic#3) and sanding drum (pic#4).

The wood block was used to "flatten" the metal dents from the jigsaw cuts (pic#5).  These irregularities were perpendicular to the surface, and trying to clamp the panels together with these would have scratch the surface.

The sanding drum was used to smooth the edge (pic#6)

Once all the edges were "cleaned", I clamped both panel together (pic#7)

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uroMAMEstyx : side pannel finishing part 2
« Reply #43 on: April 15, 2007, 10:16:05 pm »
Too many pics, so another post...

I did my best to align both panels prior to the clamping.  However, it seems that my cuts were not precise to 1/32 (pic#1)"  :dizzy:  But I was expecting that  >:D

So I took my belt sander along with a few sanding belts (60-80 grit) (pic#1),  my dust mask and I was ready to sand!!! (pic#3)   ;D

Few hours and 11 sand belts after (pic#4) (sand belts don't like stainless  :dizzy:) I finally had 2 symmetric panel (and of opposite sides) (pic#5)  :applaud:

Today (Sunday), I cut the 15" hole in the middle of the stainless side, tried my LED strips, built the led strip mount.  I only have to do the hole "finishing" and mount the strip on their support.  But this will be in another post...

Good night  :blah:
Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #44 on: April 15, 2007, 10:17:38 pm »
A Bastard File would have given you a nice smooth edge without the burning that you can see on the one pic.

Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #45 on: April 15, 2007, 10:26:37 pm »
A Bastard File would have given you a nice smooth edge without the burning that you can see on the one pic.
Gee Kaytrim, you're fast!!!  I didn't even had time to finish my second post, that you already had time to post  :cheers:

For the bastard file, I might get one tomorrow...  You were talking about burning!  you should see the 15" circle hole in the side panel...  The burning on the jigsaw blades on a previous picture were nothing compare to the one from tonight... (2 panels at once : 1 1/4" mdf + 1/20" of stainless = not a jigsaw blade's friend)...

I'll probably use the file along with the sanding drum to clean up the hole...

thanks
Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #46 on: April 15, 2007, 11:18:48 pm »
For the hole look for a round file.  The bastard file is for straight lines.  When you use them don't go straight up and down.  Slide the file along the edge as you push down.  Push down only as well.  Pulling the file up will only dull it quicker.

Gee Kaytrim, you're fast!!!  I didn't even had time to finish my second post, that you already had time to post  :cheers:

I just happen to be reading the forums as you were posting. ;D

TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #47 on: April 16, 2007, 05:31:56 am »
For the hole look for a round file.  The bastard file is for straight lines.  When you use them don't go straight up and down.  Slide the file along the edge as you push down.  Push down only as well.  Pulling the file up will only dull it quicker.
Thanks for the advice, I'll probably give it a try tonight...  I'm going to work now (about 4 hours earlier than usual...)

I just happen to be reading the forums as you were posting. ;D
Yeah sure!  You might also have some wireless hi-tech device in your brain  :laugh2:

BTW, we just had another 10-15 cm of snow here in Montreal.  It seems the  :angry: :soapbox: winter won't give up!!!

Ciao
Jay

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uroMAMEstyx : side pannel finishing part 3 (side marquee)
« Reply #48 on: April 18, 2007, 09:39:06 am »
BTW, we just had another 10-15 cm of snow here in Montreal.  It seems the :angry: :soapbox: winter won't give up!!!
Before going into the cab progress, here's a pic of what I think will be the last snow of our fabulous winter  :angry: :dizzy: :soapbox: :timebomb:  It's only 10-15cm, but at this time of year, it's kind of a pain in the... (pic#1)

As for the cab...
You were talking about burning!  you should see the 15" circle hole in the side panel... 
...
I'll probably use the file along with the sanding drum to clean up the hole...
As I said, the circle cut was all burned (black).  I had to stop at every inch because the mdf was starting to burn...  To clean this mess, I used the bastard file (with one round edge) and the "rust sponge" to remove most of the burning traces.  Then I used the sanding drum on my route at the lowest speed to finish the clean up.  Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of the "burned" circle (I guess, I was too pissed off  >:D)
But the pic#2 and pic#3 shows the 15" circle in the stainless side panels.

I also did the led strip assembly to illuminate the 15" circular side marquees.  I cut 2 square of 18x18 in a piece of 3/8 mdf, clamp them together, draw a 16" circle and cut it.  Then, I used Lock-Tite cement to fix 4 led strips per hole. (pic#4 and pic#5).

The final step of the side panels will be to enlarge by roughly 1" the side panel hole (only the mdf part) to be able to mount a plexi inside the hole that will be flush with the stainless.  If I do this correctly, I should end up with a 15" hole in the stainless and 16" hole in the mdf.  I will use a guide on the route (pic #5) that will follow the SS edge and allow me to remove 1/2" as I go...  I did some testing, and that technique seems to work well. 

PS:
Any idea for the side marquees??? 
So far my idea is to use the circular MAME logo in yellow color and add a lizard character somewhere.  I will probably also add a small "uro" before and "styx" after the MAME to match the cab's name.

more news in the next post  ;)

Ciao, got to get to work...
Jay!

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uroMAMEstyx : Let there be light!
« Reply #49 on: April 19, 2007, 09:37:44 am »
quick morning update (because not much was done in the last 2 days  :'()

I have 1 good news and 1 bad news...

The good:
I've completed the led ring to illuminate the side marquee (pic#1).  It seems alright.  I hope the light intensity will be enough to lit the marquee.  Since it is yellow, the side marquee colors will be yellow, black and red.  I'm afraid other colors won't look good if lit by a yellow light...

The bad:
The lock-tite didn't do the job for gluing the led strip on the mdf.  The led strip surface is not flat because of all the soldering bumps.  So using contact glue in the first trial didn't work.  Also the strip surface is covered with varnish to isolate the electrical traces.  Because of that varnish, the lock-tite doesn't have a good adherence. 

I'll have to try something else this weekend.  This is what I have in mind:
- use contact cement
- To solve the uneven surface problem of the led strip, use a small
   rubber/neoprene (flexible) layer between the led strip and mdf. 
That way, I should have a good contact.  I'll try that tonight.  In the mean time, if you have any recommendation, please, let me know!

More news this weekend...

So like the say : one step forward, 2 steps back  :cry:

Have a nice day!
Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #50 on: April 19, 2007, 09:52:02 am »
You have quite a bit of light there from all those LEDs  A few possible suggestions.  If you plan to never take these strips out try using epoxy.  If you think you may need to take them off for some reason try double sided foam tape.  One other idea is to take out the LED at each end of each strip and install a screw hole.  If you go with the screw make sure you pre-drill the MDF or you will split it for sure.

TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #51 on: April 20, 2007, 03:09:43 pm »

Looks great Jay, lots of progress being made! Those LED strips look very cool, I think they should be plenty bright enough.

I would second Kaytrim's suggest of foam tape to secure them. The regular Home Depot stuff would probably work but there are stronger choices if need be. You can go to a window/door place and buy a roll of what they use, which is stronger, or go to an auto supply place and buy some double-sided 3M tape. It's used to attach body moldings and will create an almost permanent bond..believe me. ;)

Nice to see someone other than Winterpeg getting some snow. ;D

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #52 on: April 21, 2007, 05:30:42 pm »
I would second Kaytrim's suggest of foam tape to secure them. The regular Home Depot stuff would probably work but there are stronger choices if need be. You can go to a window/door place and buy a roll of what they use, which is stronger, or go to an auto supply place and buy some double-sided 3M tape. It's used to attach body moldings and will create an almost permanent bond..believe me. ;)
Thanks Kaytrim and Knievel for the suggestion.  I was about to go at the hardware store yesterday to get double-sided foam tape and my friend suggested to try his Polyurethane glue before the tape.  Since that trial was free, I gave it a try... and it worked  ;D

Anyways, I'll post some pic tomorrow of the progress (and damages) done this weekend...

cheers!  :cheers:

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uroMAMEstyx : LED strip mount
« Reply #53 on: April 22, 2007, 02:16:49 pm »
Here part 1 of 2 of the progress update...

This weekend, I've finally finished the LED strip mount.    :applaud:

To glue the 4 x 1 Foot metallic LED trip on the circular edge of a 3/8" MDF, I've used POLYURETHANE GLUE (pic#1).  That glue is almost as strong as epoxy, but more flexible once cured and doesn't require mixing.  Also, it is a bit more messy when it dries.  As you see, when the glue dries, there some sort of foam/bubbles formation (pic#2).  However, when fully dry (24hr), you can remove it easily.

To get the most from the led strip, I've installed a reflective layer to the LED mount.  I've used MetalFX from Con-Tac (found it at Home Depot) (pic#3).  Basically, it's the same stuff you use to protect the bottom of drawers...

Finally, you can see on the last picture, one of the 2 LED mount finished (pic#4)...


Cheers!  :cheers:
Jay

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uroMAMEstyx : side panel finished!! : cheers:
« Reply #54 on: April 22, 2007, 02:35:47 pm »
... part 2 of the progress update.

I've finished the 2 stainless steel side panels!!!  :applaud:

In my opinion, I think this is the toughest part of my project.

The only thing I had to do was to groove the side panel hole to remove about 1/2 inch to have room to mount the circular plexi for the side logo. 

I did some testing on some scrap pieces and everything went well.  I was able to groove roughly 1/2 x 5/8 into the MDF in one pass.

For the first panel, I took the time to choose the side that will be less visible in case something happens.  I setup everything, start the router and GO!!!!  Wow, everything goes as plan, a perfect groove!  :notworthy:

I'm kind of surprise, that nothing bad happens  :dizzy:.

So I install the next panel, turn on the router, but this time, I see some metal  chips (yeah, I know that work now  ;D)...  Ooooooh ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---!!!  I stop the router and take a look....

No no no no (In fact it was more like a "Tabar..."  (I'm from Quebec)  :angry: :banghead:)
Somehow, the router bit lower a bit and hit the stainless :soapbox:

I didn't go through, but obviously, there will be some marks...

Anyways, I finish the routing, take off the protective film to look at the damages (pic#1).

After a deep breath, and a break, I added some epoxy behind the SS to hold the remaining tinny layer of SS.

I guess I'll live with it.  When you don't know is there, it's not that noticeable.
But I guess I'll always see it  :banghead: :angry: :badmood:  :hissy:

So that's all for the week end.,,

Tonight if I have time, I'll test the joysticks with mame,,,

Cheers  :cheers:
Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #55 on: April 22, 2007, 04:27:41 pm »

Too bad about the scuff but that is one sweet looking panel!

If it does bother you something like this(with a little modification)might cover that rough edge up..

http://www.t-molding.com/store/product.php?productid=16&cat=5&page=1

BTW I'm not sure if you are aware of this but they make laminates with metal finishes now. There is one that's a dead ringer for stainless steel, very easy stuff to work with.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #56 on: April 22, 2007, 05:13:39 pm »
Too bad about the scuff but that is one sweet looking panel!
If it does bother you something like this(with a little modification)might cover that rough edge up..
Thanks for the hint, I'll keep that in mind if the scuff is too visible when the plexi is installed.

BTW I'm not sure if you are aware of this but they make laminates with metal finishes now. There is one that's a dead ringer for stainless steel, very easy stuff to work with.
Nooooo!  :dizzy:
I knew about the metal vinyl (like I've used as a reflective background on the LED mounts), but laminates...  Definitively a good option for real stainless steel:
- easier to work with
- probably less expensive
- no finger prints

Cheers  :cheers:
JF

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #57 on: April 22, 2007, 06:37:24 pm »

Yes I made a bar for someone using it, really easy to work with.

On the downside it's actually more expensive than real stainless. :P

http://www.formica.com/publish/site/na/us/en/index/metal/colors_collections0/metal_laminate.detail.2178.0001.html

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #58 on: April 22, 2007, 06:54:30 pm »
On the downside it's actually more expensive than real stainless. :P
Well, it's good to know there're alternatives.

It took me 33 years to need a sheet of stainless.  Hopefully, that kind of laminate will be cheaper in 33 years from now   >:D

Jay

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uroMAMEstyx : Mini Control Panel completed !!!
« Reply #59 on: April 22, 2007, 08:17:12 pm »
Houray!

I was able to finish and try my CP.  Well my mini CP  ::).
In fact, it was just a trial to see how to hook the keywiz with the happ 360 and pushbutton.
So I did a small CP : 1 joystick + 2 buttons and try a few games...

For some reason my old school favorite "mat mania" didn't work properly, but I'll check that later when I get my CPU for the cab...

So here's a snapshot of it with shinobi in the background...

PS:
just 1 joystick and 2 pushbuttons and I was able to make a mess...
Can'r wait when the real CP will be ready with 3 joysticks and about 30 buttons...  :o

Good night!
Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #60 on: April 23, 2007, 09:34:18 pm »
Hello everyone,
here is a small update to explain where I am on the "lizard" part of the project...

I've receive pretty much everything I need to build the vivarium.
- the wood is cut
- I bought the front window slides
- I bought the fan controller (to regulate and monitor the temp inside the vivarium)
- I bought the fan (120mm LED fans)

It will be some sort of hi-tech vivarium  8)

I'll probably start the assembly this weekend...

Also, here's a pic of my favorite Dobe Mika!
... As you see, it's a dog's life...


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uroMAMEstyx : All wood cut!!!
« Reply #61 on: April 29, 2007, 11:55:19 pm »
Late update before going to bed...

I took Saturday to complete the modifications to the UAII cabinet plan.

The coin door I'm using is a Happ over/under which doesn't fit with the big keyboard drawer.  So I've reduced the drawer size to be able to fit the coin door. 

Also, because the stainless steel side panel used a whole mdf sheet, I redid all the cut layout on the remaining 2 MDF sheets.

I also had to redo all the back side and top of the cabinet.  The plan doesn't use miter cut (angled) to fit the panels.  Instead, it recommends to use a silicon bead to seal the joint between each panel.  So I redid all those parts.  I hope I didn't do too many mistakes  :angel:

Then, on sunday, I cut all the mdf.  EVERYTHING is cut  :applaud:

The only thing left is the miter cuts for the angled side of some parts.

Now, the pictures...
pic#1 : the 2 lower side panels clamped and "adjusted" (after the edge sanding...)
pic#2 : All parts that are ready to use (excluding the stainless sides)
pic#3 : All parts that need a miter cut for the angled edge.  These angle vary from 10.3 to 45.0deg.  There's 13 cuts left to do...
pic#4: Woooo!  for people without any experience with MDF, man this thing is dusty.  Prepare yourself (mask, aeration and..... broom  ;))
pic#5 : I've found these in my garage.  They're 3 inches wheels that we're used for a BBQ.  I ended up with 2 sets of  wheels.  They're quite sturdy and can be locked.  Also, they've got a nice stainless accent on them.  It's a shame they'll be hidden by the cabinet  ;D

So that's about it, the wife is going to bed.  That means I have to go to bed...
I'm kidding guy, I'm the boss around here  :laugh:

Euuuh, what am I doing???  nothing...  I'm coming honey   :dizzy:

Good night!




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uroMAMEstyx : All wood cut and miter cuts finished!!!
« Reply #62 on: May 01, 2007, 12:32:08 am »
After another 2 hours in the dust, I've finally finished all the remaining miter cuts I had to do.

For all pieces that requires a miter cut, The UAII plans will specify the longest edge along with the cut angle (pic#1).

For those who have access to a table saw, but are not sure how to do their miter cuts, here's an easy way...
Keep in mind, that I am not an woodworking expert, so there's probably better ways to do this, but since it worked pretty well for me, I'm sharing...  ::)

Step 1 : get the table offset for a given angle.
1. set the cut angle.  (ex: 22.5 degree)
2. set the cut length to a known value on the table. (ex : 6 inches)
3. cut a piece of scrap wood (must be the same "thickness") (ex: scrap piece of 5/8 MDF, 8 inches long)
4. Measure the length of your piece cut with the angle (ex: 6-7/16)

==> that means that the table saw has an offset of 7/16 inch for a cut at 22.5 deg.
==> now that you have the offset, you can use it for all cuts at 22.5 (always on the same side of the blade)

Step 2 : do the cut.
In the example, we need to cut a 22.5 degree to get a 2 inches wide piece.
So you set the table at : 2 - 7/16 = 1 9/16 (angle at 22.5)
And you cut the wood (and of course be careful  ;))

And you end up with a 2" flush piece of wood with a miter cut at 22.5 deg  :applaud:
(pic#2 and pic#3)

So as for now, all my wood is cut for both projects  : uroMAMEstyx and uroVIVAstyx.
The next steps is the assembly.

This should be a lot of fun since you can easily see the progress taking form!!!

Stay tune for the next posts  :cheers:

Good night everyone!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #63 on: May 01, 2007, 02:09:43 am »
Awesome project. I don't know how I missed this one..

 :cheers:



It's 9am. I'm calling it a nite.

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uroMAMEstyx : got sound!
« Reply #64 on: May 04, 2007, 09:07:28 am »
Awesome project. I don't know how I missed this one..

Thanks NiteWalker !!

I didn't do much on the uroMAMEstyx in the last few days.  I spent all my free time on the uroVIVAstyx project (the vivarium part)
http://www.reptilerooms.com/forumpost-390217.html#390217
... and fighting a dawn sorethroat  :angry: (but without the voice...)

I did however finally get my speakers.  I wanted something in the 100$ range, with good power and sound.  After searching into different topic on this board, my choice were:
- Klipsch Promedia 2.1
- Logitech Z-2300 THX
I'm gonna use the cab to play music on the main floor...

I was looking on ebay to get those speakers, and they were in the 100$ range (taking into account the shiping + duties/taxes).  Then, I remembered seeing a post from Knievel saying that the Z-2300 were often in special at 100 Canadian $.  They had it on futureshop at 230$ and bestbuy at 230-130 instant rebate = 100$.

All right  :applaud:

So that's about it...
I will assemble the base saturday, so stay tune!!

Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #65 on: May 04, 2007, 11:07:26 am »
With a total of 200 watts, this thing will rock.  You will want to make sure everthing is buttoned down tight (glass mount, screws, anything loosly touching something else; like the back door, etc.)  Otherwise it will vibrate like crazy.  Look'n good.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #66 on: May 06, 2007, 12:33:48 am »
Thanks for the advice TheCoder.  I'll probably use some neoprene tape (like for pickup box) to prevent any vibration...
I haven't had time to test the speakers, but I can'twait to see what they are capable of....
Jay  >:D

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uroMAMEstyx : Lower part of cabinet assembled!!!
« Reply #67 on: May 13, 2007, 08:48:44 pm »
Hello everyone,

It's been a while since I've updated my project.  The main reason being that I didn't work on it for a week.  I've spent all my free time on the Vivarium  (which is now assembled and ready for sanding...).

So here's the uroMAMEstyx update.

When I woke up Saturday and looked outside, the weather was so nice that I didn't want to stay inside.  Especially in the garage or workshop.  Since I wanted to work on the uroMAMEstyx, I decided to take my stuff outside in the yard.

Man, taking all the tools and wood out takes a long time, but I couldn't resist the urge to take some sun  >:D

So I marked all the pieces and was ready to start the lower part of the cabinet assembly!
I clamped the 2 side panels with the bottom piece, and did my first countersink hole....  Woooo!  What a feeling!  Well maybe not, after all it's just a hole (pic#1)  :dunno

I rose the floor (bottom panel) a bit because I want to use wheels and want them to be (almost) hidden. (pic#2).

Once the side panels screwed to the bottom panel, I added panel, after panel.  You can see on the picture a close up of the lower back of the cabinet.  (I've modified the original UAII plans so that angle pieces joint are flush when assembled.  ie for a 45 deg joint, each piece edges are at 22.5 deg) (pic#3)

Here I'd like to thank my helper Mika for always looking at me while I was on the patio (pic#4).

Another shot of the cab progression, the TV shelf is on  :cheers: (pic#5).

Finally, the last piece who gave me the most trouble to adjust, was the drawer.  I had to modify the UAII plans to get rid of the huge drawer that I didn't like.  Furthermore, my over/under coin door couldn't fit with the original drawer.  After thinking for a while, I've decided to center the coin in the front panel (vertically).
(pic#6 + pic#7)

What's left to do with the lower part of the cabinet?
- wood filler + sanding to hide imperfections + countersunk screws
- install wheels under the cab
- solidify the bottom panel (add few angled brackets or pieces of mdf) since it will be the one supporting all the weight (in the original UAII, the side panels were supporting the whole cab...)

That's it for the weekend.

Good night everyone!!
Jay
:cheers:

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uroMAMEstyx : computer ordered + light guns (2007.05.17)
« Reply #68 on: May 18, 2007, 12:56:02 am »
Quick update of the project uroMAMEstyx.

I didn't do much in the last week, because I spent all my time working on the vivarium.

Aaaah the uroVIVAstyx... I'm already at my second built. 
To make a short story, the first one didn't fit in the stairway/doorway...  :banghead:
Don't know how I missed that!!!
To read the long story, here's the link again : http://www.repticzone.com/forums/Uromastyx/messages/1227088.html

As for the uroMAMEstyx,

Found The Computer!!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------
I've finally ordered my computer.  I've got a
HP A1630N AMD Athlon 64 X2 4600+ 2.4GHz, 2GB ram, 250GB HD.
I had some sort of deal with my mastercard which gave me an additional 100$ rebate on the computer.  So I guess, it's an OK deal.
http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?sku_id=0926INGFS10087070&catid=20217&logon=&langid=EN

Found The Guns!!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------
I found an online store to get LCD topgun in Canada.  For those interested, they sell them for 45$ US.  Here's the link: http://www.gamersection.ca/.  You can pick them up if you are in the Montreal area (5$) or they'll ship it to you for 12$ (for 2 guns).

I went with these, because I didn't want to pay 100$+ for the actlabs TV versions and also, because I have an XBOX + 54" giant screen. Since each gun comes with a set of LED, and that regardless of the number of gun you are using, you only need 1 set of LED per TV, I'm gonna install the LED on the cabinet and on the 54" TV.  So I'll be able to play HOD3 on the big TV ;D

So for roughly 120$ Canadian for 2 guns that I'll be able to use on both my xbox + uroMAMstyx, I guess it all right!

So that's about it.
Good night everyone.
It's 01h00AM and my eyes are burning  :dizzy:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : computer + light guns ordered (2007.05.17)
« Reply #69 on: May 18, 2007, 09:36:13 am »
Here is a link to the product page for the LCD TopGun.

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Hello everyone,

it's been a long time since I've worked on my project.  I've spent the last few days rebuilding the vivarium...
So far, the vivarium is fully assembled, The next steps are to stain/varnish it and install the glasses and do the electrical stuff...

As for the uroMAMEstyx, here's the progress:

- I've received the guts (pic#1). 
I'm using my old PC monitor to do my testing/setup until I get a graphic card to output svideo to the TV. 
BTW: I intend to go with an ATI radeon chipset.  I was thinking getting a X1300. 
Is that a good choice?  Any recommendation?

- I've received my 2 EMS TopGuns (pic#2). 
I will probably test them on my xbox this weekend.  The PC test will be later when the
CPU is setup. As you may have read, the guns actually look more like plastic than metal
(like on the box picture).  But I think they still look good. 

When I babysit my nephews, the oldest one (9 years old) always want to play to Halo on my xbox, but since my sister don't really appreciate the "mature theme" of the game, he's not allowed to play (in fact, I'm not allowed to let him play).  Wait till she sees him shooting zombies with realistic looking guns  >:D (I'm just kidding sister...)

As for the cabinet assembly.  In the original UAII plans, the first panels they assemble are the upper side panels screwed into the base of the cabinet with 6 screws on both side.  Since I already laminated the upper sides with stainless steel, it's obvious I can't use screws through the SS, so I decided to use a combination of wood and metal brackets (pic#3). 

It took me a long time to figure out where to install the brackets in order to simplify the final assembly of the upper and lower part of the cabinet and have a solid cabinet.

The wood brackets are used wherever I was able to since I consider them to be more stable that the metal one (more surface for support) (pic#4).  I used glue + screws.

The metal brackets are used when the wood bracket might be too visible.  I used the for the top panel and speaker shelf, since using wood bracket would have been visible in the marquee (pic#5). 

Finally, I used a combination of wood + metal brackets for the side panel at the TV shelf level (pic#6).  The wood brackets are there to align the upper part on the base when it will ready to assemble (the wood brackets will lay down on the TV shelf).  The metal brackets are there to secure the top panel on the base.  So far, I'm using 4 brackets per side.  I hope this will be solid enough  :dizzy:

However, I think when I'll need to move the cabinet (like across stairs) and need to incline the cabinet, I won't take any chance and will disassemble the 2 part on case something breaks...  So I'll plan the marquee and side logo lighting connection accordingly....

Here I see my self with a friend moving that huge thing.  I hold the base, my friend hold the top, then CRRRRAAAACK, the 8 screws give up, the cabinet split into 2 part, the CP is crushed, the TV explodes, The TV glass breaks, the speakers implodes, The CPU takes into fire ... and I ... start crying  :cry:

If you have some recommendation for the assembly or for the graphic card, please let me know.

As you see, it's not much, but it's still progressing  :dunno

That's all for tonight.  I'm going to bed  :cheers:

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uroMAMEstyx : 2 steps forward, 1 setp back (2007.05.25)!!!
« Reply #71 on: May 25, 2007, 09:48:45 am »
Wll the tittle says it all...

I took a step back last night.

I was about to install all the mounting brackets on the other side pannel and start thinking on how to install the LEDs for the LCD top gun.  After taken a measurement, I think I found something that will allow me to mount them on the side of the TV.  It will be a thight fit with roughly 1/8in of margin to fit everything.

TV width + topgun led width X 2 + glass mounting bracket X 2 < tv shelf width
25 1/4 + 11/16 x 2 + 3/8 x2 = 27 3/8 < 27.5  ouf!...

I've included a jpg describing what I have in mind

This will imply that I wont be able to use a monitor bezel.  So I'll use a tinted glass with 1/2 aluminium 90deg molding.  Everything behind the glass will be black, so it should have a clean look.

So last night, I've removed the glass bracket and also the tv shelf bracket.  The were glued + screwed, so I had to do a bit of sanding to clean it up.

I should be able to complete the top module assembly this weekend.
Hopefully everything will be a snug fit.  I won't use glue for the glass bracket since I might have to trim is a bit...
As usual, Friday night is my day off  :cheers:

PS: I also played a bit with the PC.  Didn't do much.  I basically did the OS updates and burned my recovery disks.  I'll start the system clean up also this weekend.

PPS: As for the graphic card, I'm gonna get a pcie rad x1300.  It should be more than enough to play all mame/daphnee and some pc pinball games...

Good day!


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Re: uroMAMEstyx : changed my mind again... (2007.05.25)!!!
« Reply #72 on: May 25, 2007, 09:06:04 pm »
After thinking about my new mounting technique.  I've decided to choose an even simpler way to mount the topgun leds.

On the TV directly, how they are meant to be mounted!

I'm still gonna use 3/8 material as the glass side mounting bracket, but the top gun will be mounted directly on the TV.

Simpler is better :)

more new tomorrow...

Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : 2 steps forward, step back (2007.05.25)!!!
« Reply #73 on: May 26, 2007, 01:01:03 am »
Great so far, looking forward to see how it all turns out!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : 2 steps forward, step back (2007.05.25)!!!
« Reply #74 on: May 26, 2007, 02:35:20 pm »
Looking good so far.

I can't wait to see how the Translucent Yellow Trackball looks.  I've been wanting to swap out the trackball in my cab for the yellow one, but I haven't seen any pictures of it yet.

I have the red one now, but it's just too orange for me...

Homer Simpson:
"Here's to alcohol, the cause of, and solution to, all life's problems."

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : 2 steps forward, step back (2007.05.25)!!!
« Reply #75 on: May 26, 2007, 10:08:09 pm »
Thanks for the encouragement Stuckpixel and Chigago Dave  :cheers:

I can't wait to see how the Translucent Yellow Trackball looks.  I've been wanting to swap out the trackball in my cab for the yellow one, but I haven't seen any pictures of it yet.
I'll try to take the time to hook 3 leds underneath the trackball to give you a shot of it lit.
I'm curious too to see how it looks when lit.
When they are unlit, the buttons and trackball are not impressive at all (especially the tb...)
come back in a few days  ;)

PS: a fiend of mine will try to come up with a logo for my project.
Can't wait to see it.  If it's ok, which I'm pretty sure it will, I'll only have to vectorize it...  :notworthy:

Jay

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uroMAMEstyx : cabinet assembled (2007.05.27)!!!
« Reply #76 on: May 27, 2007, 07:24:22 pm »
Hourray!  I've got a full size cabinet now....  Still a lot of work to do, but this step is important  :cheers:

First, I've revised and simplify a bit the mounting brackets for the upper side panels assembly (pic#1).

On the second picture, you can see the first side panel ready to install with its LED ring installed (pic#2) .

Then I assembled both side panels together and connected the LED rings to see how it look (pic#3).

For the next step, I tought for a while if I should do it now or wait for someone to give me a hand to lift this thing...  This the kind of step you decide to do alone and suddenly, something goes wrong, you drop the whole thind and end up with a huge scratch on the stainless steel... 
Well, I was too anxious to see the full size cab, so I took my time to prepare for an easy lift off  >:D
Hopefully, everything went as plan and you can see the cab assembled (pic#4) without any new scratches.
I was impressed on how the 2 parts are stable, even if the upper part is not secured yet on the base. 
I guess taking my time to plan the assembly paid off  ;)

Then, before going further, I installed the TV in its enclosure and make sure everything fits.  I also installed the EMS Topgun Leds to see if, as plan, they would fit snugly.  Well....  :cheers: (pic#5)

And finally, I decided to do a side logo to see if the yellow LED rings would be bright enough for what I had in mind.  My plan is to use the side logo printed on backlit paper or vinyl squeezed between am 1/8 white plexi and 1/8 transparent plexi.  The white plexi is to diffuse the yellow light.  As you can see on the last picture (pic#6), I'm not the artistic type.  Hopefully, my friend is way better than me for this stuff  ;D 

On this, I'm taking a break.  I just wanted to share with you my progresses.

PS: I got myself x1300 pcie 512Mb graphics card on eBay today at 50$ incl shipping.  That should be more than enough for the uroMAMEstyx.

superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : early trackball snapshots
« Reply #77 on: May 27, 2007, 09:23:31 pm »
I can't wait to see how the Translucent Yellow Trackball looks.  I've been wanting to swap out the trackball in my cab for the yellow one, but I haven't seen any pictures of it yet.
Hello Chicago Dave,
I took a quick snapshot of the trackball unlit and lit with its 12V stock lamp.

Unlit, the trackball is yellow with a slight tint of green. (pic#1)

Lit with the stock lamp, the green tint switches to an orange tint.
Depending on the zoom used on my Canon SD300, the trackball color appears to yellow  (pic#2 : zoom out) or orange (pic#3 : zoom in).  To the naked eye, the TB lit looks yellow with a slight orange tint. (like pic#2, but slightly more orange)

... but it's just too orange for me...
I think Happ is into a conspiracy.  All their trackballs are Orange when lit, regardless of their original colors   :dizzy:

I'll try to get better pictures when I'll do trials with my yellow leds which should be ultimately used to lit all buttons and the track ball.

That's it.  Good night  :cheers:

ChicagoDave

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : cabinet assembled (2007.05.27)!!!
« Reply #78 on: May 27, 2007, 11:07:02 pm »
Thanks for the pics!  If the trackball looks like your middle picture it will be great. 

Your bottom picture doesn't look much different from my translucent red ball.  Weird....

Homer Simpson:
"Here's to alcohol, the cause of, and solution to, all life's problems."

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : cabinet assembled (2007.05.27)!!!
« Reply #79 on: May 28, 2007, 06:44:08 am »
Hello ChicagoDave,

the tb definitively looks more like the 2nd pic, but still have a slight orange ting to it.
Somehow, when I try to zoom to much with the camera, the color switches from yellow to orange ... like if the CCD saturates  :dizzy:

Anyways, like I said, I'll do more testing with the yellow LEDs later his week, so stay tune.

Have a nice Day
Jay  :cheers:

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uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #80 on: May 29, 2007, 12:40:09 am »
Late night update...

pfffff... I'm tired... I got up early this morning, going late to bed tonight, and have again to wake up early tomorrow....  :dizzy:

All right, lets go with the update so I can snore in a few minutes  ;D

Tonight, I've installed the wheels under the cabinets.  To flip the base over, I needed to remove the TV and the upper section.  This time I asked for help...  My girlfriend gave me a hand to remove to top section while commenting on how big this thing is.  Luckily, I already had the approval  >:D

Ray, a friend of mine took the time to make me some wheels brackets.  I couldn't find any at the hardware store that seems sturdy enough.  Those brackets can probably hold the whole house  ;D (pic#1)

Once installed, I just "screwed in" the wheels in the brackets (pic#2) and I had a cab with wheels (pic#3).

Then flip it over, and couldn't resist to drop the coin door to see if it fits (pic#4).

That's it for tonight.
Bonne nuit!
Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #81 on: May 29, 2007, 10:10:06 am »
You will be more happy with the results using LEDs.  The color is more true.  I have a blue translucent that looked greenish when lit with the stock lamp.  Once I put a blue LED it was true blue indeed.   ;D

Kaytirm

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #82 on: May 29, 2007, 10:26:21 am »
The level of talent on these boards always amazes me.  I really love how this thing is coming together.   :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #83 on: May 29, 2007, 11:55:56 am »
Are those casters plastic?  If so, I would be careful with them.  I had a set of plastic ones colapse on a computer desk simply because I added a heaver set of speakers. 

The cabinet can get pretty heavy, so be sure to check the capacity of those wheels.

Meanwhile, I'm going to get myself some red LED's to see if my Orange "Red Translucent" trackball becomes a Red "Red Translucent" trackball.
Homer Simpson:
"Here's to alcohol, the cause of, and solution to, all life's problems."

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #84 on: May 29, 2007, 02:46:08 pm »
Great project!! :notworthy: Did you use some kind of reinforcement inside the cabinet for those wheel? That bottom is going to support the entire weight of the cabinet.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #85 on: May 29, 2007, 09:18:43 pm »

Cabinet pics look great Jay. :cheers:

Keep going!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #86 on: May 29, 2007, 09:19:27 pm »
You will be more happy with the results using LEDs.  The color is more true.  I have a blue translucent that looked greenish when lit with the stock lamp. 
Thanks kaytrim.  I can't wait to try them.  I'll probably hook up the LEDs this weekend.  I need to work a bit on the uroVIVAstyx to stain it...

Are those casters plastic?  If so, I would be careful with them..
Thanks for warning ChicagoDave.  They are indeed made of plastic.  I don't have any spec (I got them from a big stainless steel BBQ).  However, they are quite big (3in diam and 2in wide) and look really robust, so I thinks they can easily support 150lbs each...  I'll keep that in mind when I'll do the final assembly to make sure I don't have any surprise  :dizzy:.

Great project!! :notworthy: Did you use some kind of reinforcement inside the cabinet for those wheel? That bottom is going to support the entire weight of the cabinet.
That's funny knowel, When I modified the plan, I also modified the base since, like you said,  all the weight is supported by the bottom instead of the cabinet sides and the bottom is held into place only by a few screws from the exterior panel into that panel. 
So when I got home tonight I went in the garage and checked to make sure I installed the interior brackets and guess what...
They were with my scrap wood ... waiting to be installed  :laugh2:
I'll install them tonight or tomorrow.
I don't intend to double the bottom, only use mdf bracket (5/8 x 2) along the bottom edge to give it full support along all edges.
Do you thinks it will be enough??

Thanks for the feedback everyone!!!

:cheers:
Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #87 on: May 29, 2007, 09:21:17 pm »
Cabinet pics look great Jay. :cheers:
Keep going!
thanks Knievel.
The LED strips for the side logo that you recommended will be great.  Just the right intensity  :cheers:

Jay

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uroMAMEstyx : Bottom of cab reinforcement
« Reply #88 on: May 29, 2007, 11:49:23 pm »
As knowel75 said, I forgot to reinforce the bottom of the cabinet.
So before being sorry, I've decided to fix it right away...

Since the base was modified to add wheel, the whole cab weight is now on the bottom panel of the base instead of all 4 side/front/back panels.

What I did to reinforce the base is add 2 piece of mdf under the base near the wheel, where the stress is concentrate.  This is to distribute the load on the whole panel and also add strength to the same panel (pic#1).

The inside the cabinet, I added a bunch of corner braces to distribute the stress not only on the assembly screws, but on the whole perimeter (pic#2).

That should be more than enough to support the heavy weight cab  :angel:

Good night every one!!!
Jay  :woot

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #89 on: May 30, 2007, 12:21:21 am »
I'd recommend going with LED's on the trackball instead of a lamp.  You have many more color options, and they don't burn out.  Have you decided how to mount the LED's in the trackball?  On the Partybox project, I drilled 3 holes straight into the bottom trackball housing and hot glued them in.  Worked great. 

Look'n good.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #90 on: May 31, 2007, 09:51:18 am »
I'd recommend going with LED's on the trackball instead of a lamp.  You have many more color options, and they don't burn out.  Have you decided how to mount the LED's in the trackball?  On the Partybox project, I drilled 3 holes straight into the bottom trackball housing and hot glued them in.  Worked great. 

Look'n good.
I'm definitively going with LEDs for all the lighting.  Especially that I have a LEDwiz  ;D
I did some trials yesterday to lit the trackball.  Here 2 snapshots with 4 LEDs lighting from below (where the original lamp was).  I may go your route Coder and drill directly in the trackball case.  I think there'splenty of space and this method probably gives a better light distribution (even if my yesterday trial was uniform)

With the LEDs, the tb is really yellow  :applaud:

I've included 2 pics of the lit trackballs with LEDs.  Again, I had a bit of trouble getting the colors right, but this will give you an idea of the yellow translucent trackball from Happ.

Cheers
Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #91 on: May 31, 2007, 10:07:20 am »
Wow!  Big difference!  Now it really looks yellow!  Nice job.  Which brand and color of LEDs did you choose?
Homer Simpson:
"Here's to alcohol, the cause of, and solution to, all life's problems."

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #92 on: June 01, 2007, 10:04:20 am »
Wow!  Big difference!  Now it really looks yellow!  Nice job.  Which brand and color of LEDs did you choose?

Hello ChicagoDave, They are PURE Yellow LEDs 100PCS x 5000MCD Ultra Bright 5mm Led.
But you can easilly get any color and probably brighter leds (1000mcd) on ebay.
Just do a search for "[your color] led" on ebay.  They usually are from china, sold in pak of 100 for about 1$ + 5$ shipping...

Cheers.
Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #93 on: June 01, 2007, 10:13:44 am »
There are other options on sourcing your LEDs.  My favorite place is Groovy Game Gear.  Randy supplies the necessary resister with his 'Button Blaster' LEDs and he has the basic colors or you can get the RGB LED from him as well.  I use them for my basic lighting needs, including the marquee on my current project.

I got my TB LEDs from another source though and I am very happy with it.  NiceMite.com has a trackball lighting module that you can get in several colors.  My blue TB got a major upgrade from aqua to true blue using his module.

TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Got wheels? (2007.05.28)
« Reply #94 on: June 07, 2007, 11:36:37 pm »
Quick update to let you know that the project is still alive...

I didn't don much on the arcade part of the project in the last 2 weeks, mainly because I was working on the vivarium part of it...

I was staining/varnishing that beast (2 coats stain/varnish + 2 coat water base varnish to make it safer for its inhabitants).

Because of this, I couldn't do any wood cuts in the workshop...

So I started to configure the PC and setup Mala and all the emulators... (time consuming)

I'm ordering the tinted glass for the TV tomorrow.
I should be able to work on the cab really soon...

Jay

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uroMAMEstyx : Got glass (2007.06.13)
« Reply #95 on: June 13, 2007, 10:49:02 pm »
Quick update (because not much was done on the cab  :cry:)

I received my glass for the cabinet.  It's a 6mm (~1/4in) regular tinted (gray) glass. 
Here a pic of it...

Nothing else to declare...

PS: I'm almost done configuring the PC.  The next step will be to add the plugin for the LED wiz...

Jay

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uroMAMEstyx : The project is still alive : speaker installed (2007.07.02)
« Reply #96 on: July 02, 2007, 01:38:53 pm »
Hello BYOACers!

the uroMAMEstyx was put on hold for 2-3 weeks.  This is because I was finishing the "vivarium" part of the project (uroVIVAstyx) (I'll post some pics of it later this week).

Now that's out of the way, I'll start to work again on the cabinet!!!  >:D

I hope to have it finished by the end of July, where I gonna do my annual corn party (or any party).  This will be a good time to give a good testdrive to the cab!!!

Here's what I did today : mount the speakers!

I used my router and a template (my first trial  :laugh:) to mount the speakers directly in the mdf.  Also, I'm using the original speaker grills.  Once the MDF painted black, I'm pretty sure it will looks nice and clean!.

Here are the pics of the steps required to mounts my speaker.

(no pic)
I measured the speaker size and build a template.  I used tricks from another post in this forum (I don't remember which one).

(pic1)
Then, I roughly cut with the jigsaw, the speaker hole and install the template over it.

(pic2)
Using a flush bit, I trimmed the hole.

(pic3)
Using a 45deg chamfering bit, I removed 1/8in to allow the speaker grill to be flushed with the mdf surface

(pic4)
Using foam tape and steel strapping, I secured the speakers into place.

(pic5)
Voila!  Speakers mounted with their original grills

I'll probably add some plumber mastic around the speaker to prevent any light from coming out. (plumber mastic is easy to remove if needed.)

More news later folks!!

(It's good to be back)
Jay  :cheers:

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uroVIVAstyx : sneak previews!
« Reply #97 on: July 02, 2007, 07:09:14 pm »
For those of you interested, here's a snapshot of the finished uroVIVAstyx...

Good night!
Jay  :cheers:

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uroMAMEstyx : TV access door installed (2007.07.03)
« Reply #98 on: July 03, 2007, 03:57:16 pm »
Quick update, I've installed the TV access door.  I've used a "piano hinge".

There's 2 pictures.  The first one is with the door close, the second with the door open.
Simple

Regards!
Jay  :cheers:

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uroMAMEstyx : CPU access door installed (2007.07.07)
« Reply #99 on: July 09, 2007, 12:06:45 am »
Another "boring update".

I've installed the cpu door.  This one is "ventilated".
I'm using a perforated panel + 5/8 mdf.

I used the jigsaw to cut the mdf hole + the router to recess the perforated panel in the mdf.
For the finition, I've used wood filler.

Here's some pics...

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : CPU access door installed (2007.07.07)
« Reply #100 on: July 09, 2007, 11:51:25 am »
Another "boring update".

I've installed the cpu door.  This one is "ventilated".
I'm using a perforated panel + 5/8 mdf.

I used the jigsaw to cut the mdf hole + the router to recess the perforated panel in the mdf.
For the finition, I've used wood filler.

That is one 'cool' idea. :laugh2:  Seriously though I like the idea.  Just make sure you have somthing near the top to let the heat out.  Looking over the pics you have from the back of the cab it looks like you have your monitor sealed off from the lower part of the cab.  I'd sink a couple of holes in the monitor shelf to allow air to circulate and an exhaust port with a fan near the top of the cab at the back.  I had to do the same on Dad's Bartop.

TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
« Last Edit: July 09, 2007, 11:54:38 am by Kaytrim »

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Looking over the pics you have from the back of the cab it looks like you have your monitor sealed off from the lower part of the cab.  I'd sink a couple of holes in the monitor shelf to allow air to circulate and an exhaust port with a fan near the top of the cab at the back.

Thanks Kaytrim.

It doesn't really show on the picture, but the TV shelf doesn't go all the way to the TV access door, so, there's a 27.5x3.5 opening to allow air flow.

However, I don't have any vent/fan right now on the top of the cab, at the back.
I will either add a vent or 1 of the spare 120mm fan that I used for my uroVIVAstys project (lizard vivarium)

Jay

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Jay,

That gap at the back of the shelf should be plenty.  I wasn't sure if there was one or not looking at the pics.  You will want to put the vent as close to the high point of the cab as you can.  Attached is the airflow diagram for Dad's bartop to give you an idea.

TTFN

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Thanks Kaytrim,

do you think 1 or 2 vents in the top will be enough, or should I install a fan?

Wednesday update:
------------------------------------------
I cut the bottom and top panel for the CP to have an idea if the size was right.... geee it's big!!!

Right now, the CP dimensions are:
box : 32 x (15-17) : front is curved and there 2"" depth difference between side and middle.  You can see the "curved" line of the CP (will be cut later)
top: 34 x (16-18) : same curved line...  the CP top is 1in oversized compared to the CP box.
height front : 4 1/8in;  height back : 5 1/8 in  (this is for the CP + plexi to be flush with the TV shelf)


The CP box is about 1 in larger on both side of the cab as seen on the second pic.

Does these dimensions make sens???
(it's late, and my English is probably awful...  :dunno)

Good night
Jay

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It looks good to me.

It's not too big at all. We've seen some with a wingspan bigger than the Spruce Goose.

... And your English is better than some around here whose speak it natively!

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Listen to the Dude Jay.  You did a good description of your CP.  For your venting it depends on the air flow and the heat generation.  I don't remember if you are using a CRT or LCD monitor.  If you have a CRT then a fan might be a good idea to pull the air out the top. 

In Dad's bartop I had two 3/4 inch holes in the underside of the CP and two more at the top.  The fan I had mounted on the monitor shelf pulling the air from below.

TTFN

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Thanks dude and kaytrim,

I'm using a citizen 27" tv (JCTV2709).

Does the TV usually generate a lot of heat??

I'll either use 2 vents or 2 120mm fan (with a resistor to slow it down, to reduce noise).

Jay

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I'm not sure about that model, but generally, they all put out a bit of heat.

Instead of a resistor, have you thought about using a potentiometer? That way you could vary the speed of the fans to balance the noise vs. the cooling.

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Good idea DudeMan....

If I use a fan. a pot will definitively be the way to go!!!

Cheers  :cheers:
Jay

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This is a very impressive project!
You are very dedicated to doing a good job.
On my three (thus far) arcades, I mounted a 120 mm fan in the bottom back of the cabinet, then an opening at the top to let the hot air escape.
http://skennys-arcade.blogspot.com/2007/06/some-more-pictures.html
I think mounting the fan at the bottom of the cabinet reduces the noise that the players hear.
Also, cool air blows across the fan motor instead of the hot air that would be at the top of the cabinet. Im not sure if this prolongs the life of the fan or not, but it couldnt hurt.
I also used a screen over the top opening, because bugs and dust seem to be attracted to the marquee light area. Of course the bugs might make good pet food..  :laugh:
Good luck with the rest of your project.

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uroMAMEstyx : CP box assembly (2007.07.14)
« Reply #110 on: July 14, 2007, 11:41:09 pm »
This is a very impressive project!
You are very dedicated to doing a good job.
On my three (thus far) arcades, I mounted a 120 mm fan in the bottom back of the cabinet, then an opening at the top to let the hot air escape.
Thanks OldMan (love your avatar!!!), 
I went on your blog to see it (very well documented, you remind me my father in law  :D).  I think I'll just install 1 or 2 vent on the top.  This will probably be enough.  I'll probably setup something to let the hot air out, but not the light from the marquee...

Question : is there light coming out from your top opening...

===============================================================

Hello everyone,

today (Saturday) I was able to assemble the CP box.  The final dimensions of the CP box are:

width = 32
depth = 15 (side), 17 (center).  Front face is curved.
height = 4 5/8 (back), 3 1/8 (front).  This give a slope of roughly 7 deg

Construction...

step 1 : determine the CP size and verify with the forum is the size make sens
step 2 : cut the mdf (top, bottom, back, side x 2, front x 4.
step 3 : glue the 4 mdf pieces together.  These will be used for the curved front face (pic#1 and pic#2)
step 4 : cut the curve using a jigsaw on both top and bottom panel
step 5 : assemble the side, back and front to the bottom
step 6 : with the sand belt and a 60 grit belt, "sand" the curved front face (outside!!!)
step 7 : use wood filler to hide screw holes and imperfection
step 8 : finishing sanding (will be done tomorrow)

I'm attaching a few pic to illustrate the process...

Cheers!!! 
Jay
:cheers:

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Small update and no picture  :(

As planned, I finished the finishing sanding.  The next step will be the primer!! (yeah! almost done with dust...)

For the circular side logos, I'll be using 3/8 plexi + logo printed on backlit film + 3/8 plexi.
So I did my template (using a piece a 3/8 luan), then found a old piece of plexi that was laying around
and using my router flush bit, I cut 2 plexi circle.  I might sand them later if I need to diffuse the LED light.

Finally, I added a shelf to put the subwoofer on.  The Z2300 speaker wires are borderline (length wise). 
That shelf will allow me to connect the 2 speakers to the sub without having to use any extension.

That's about it for tonight.

PS:
For the painting, I thought of using Bella's Arcade technique, but soon realized that only Javeryh is crazy
enough to go through that exhaustive process  ;)

Jay  :cheers:

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uroMAMEstyx : First coat of Primer (2007.07.18)
« Reply #112 on: July 18, 2007, 09:29:44 am »
Hello!!!

I've started the paint.
I'm using a 1.5in paint brush + foam roller to paint that thing.

In the last 2 days I did the first coat of primer EVERYWHERE.
The next step is to to any wood filler touch up and add a second coat of primer on all visible sides.
Then I'll give 1 coat of black semigloss latex everywhere + 2 extra coats on visible sides.

I'm including a Pic of all primed pieces and also one of the side logo plexis being routed with the flush bit and the luan template.

That it for today!

Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : CP box assembly (2007.07.14)
« Reply #113 on: July 19, 2007, 01:24:38 pm »
Question : is there light coming out from your top opening...

There is a small amount of light from the marquee lamps that does come out of the back of the cabinet, through the air space, but it is very subtle and does not affect anything at all.
The screen I put across the opening also cuts the light down considerably.

Thanks for the kind comments about my blog.
Your project is coming along great, you are doing a fine job.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : First coat of Primer (2007.07.18)
« Reply #114 on: July 21, 2007, 10:27:49 am »

Looking good Jay, love the curved CP box. :)

Are you using the small white 4" foam rollers? Those will give you a spray-like finish.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : First coat of Primer (2007.07.18)
« Reply #115 on: July 23, 2007, 12:17:13 am »
Looking good Jay, love the curved CP box. :)
Thanks.  Since I was using a "curved CP", I decided to match the CP box...
It was too long to do (but generated a lot of dust...)

Are you using the small white 4" foam rollers? Those will give you a spray-like finish.
Yep!  However, it's not "spray-like" yet...  There was a bit of dust in the garage...

I'm almost done with the second coat of latex (everywhere).

I'll give a 3rd coat on all visible surfaces soon.

Then I'll work on the CP layout to be able to drill hole next weekend  :D

Good night!!
Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : First coat of Primer (2007.07.18)
« Reply #116 on: July 24, 2007, 03:28:53 am »
I think we worry too much about heat.  The original cabs had 19" monitors and big, inefficient electronics.  They just had a vent at the top, no fan.  I think one fan in your cab should be fine.  Has anyone done any temperature studies on their cab(s)?

On my driving cab, I put two fans in.  They made a ton of noise.  To quiet them down, I put in 50 ohm 1/4 watt resistors.  They (the resistors) got extremely hot.  After checking the math, I found they were drawing a little more than 1/2 watt.  I ended up putting three 100 ohm 1/4 watt resistors in parallel (= 33.3 ohms total with 1/2 watts going through 3 or 1/6 watt per resistor).   The fans run very slow and quiet, and after running for hours, everything inside is cool to the touch. 

Great progress.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : First coat of Primer (2007.07.18)
« Reply #117 on: July 25, 2007, 07:50:50 am »
Keep the reports coming Jay, have just (finally) finished cutting out all my pieces for the UAII and cant wait to start putting them together (weather crap here atm).

Good job!  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : First coat of Primer (2007.07.18)
« Reply #118 on: July 25, 2007, 09:40:29 am »
There is a small amount of light from the marquee lamps that does come out of the back of the cabinet, through the air space, but it is very subtle and does not affect anything at all.
The screen I put across the opening also cuts the light down considerably.
OldMan,
I'll probably "close" the light marquee section to prevent any light from coming out from the top vent/fan.

I think we worry too much about heat.  The original cabs had 19" monitors and big, inefficient electronics.  They just had a vent at the top, no fan.  I think one fan in your cab should be fine.  Has anyone done any temperature studies on their cab(s)?
Thanks Coder. 
Since I have a "big enough" opening at the bottom, I might just add 1 or 2 vents at the top or a fan, depending on what will look better. 

I will definitively add a resistor in series with the 12V fan (if I use it) to reduce its RPM. (I had the same noise problem with the fan in my vivarium project)


Keep the reports coming Jay, have just (finally) finished cutting out all my pieces for the UAII and cant wait to start putting them together (weather crap here atm).
Thanks Soup!
I really like the general shape of the UAII (except for the big drawer).
You'll see, assembling the cab is one of the fun step of the project, since you can see an immediate results!!


---------------------------------------------------
painting update
---------------------------------------------------
I've finished the second coat of black paint everywhere on the cab (even inside).
Also, I have installed a shelf inside the bottom part of the cab for the subwoofer.  This is to avoid using
RCA extension for the 2 speakers (the wire length is borderline and raising the sub by 12in, gives me the slack I need).

I already sanded the "visible surfaces" on which I'll put an additional 2 coats of black.  This should be a quick process, since it will be done with the 4" foam roller.

At the same time, I'm preparing my test piece.  I already tried
   1 primer + 2 black + light sanding + rubbing compound directly
and it gives good results (almost no orange peel). 
I might also use some "clear" spray, depending on the results on my test piece...
I'll try to post some good pics of that process and of the results I get (before/after).


So here's the pics...
pic#1 : subwoofer shelf
pic#2 : 2 coats of black on all pieces...
   The family cab picture:
   bottom from left to right : CP top, CP box, Front drawer, TV back access Panel
   center : lower part of the cabinet
   top : upper part of the cab and in front of it (not really visible), the speaker shelf.
           And finally, the circular side logo lighting system (led strip), right next to the blue recycling bin
          (this one is hard to see  ;))

On this, I've got to go work...

Cheers!!!  :cheers:
Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : First coat of Primer (2007.07.18)
« Reply #119 on: July 26, 2007, 12:00:06 am »
real quick update...

just finished the 3rd coat of paint.
will try tomorrow the rubbing compound to see the result on my test piece...

ciao!
Jay  :cheers:

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uroMAMEstyx : Control Panel Layout ... need your feedback!!! (2007.07.29)
« Reply #120 on: July 29, 2007, 11:16:21 pm »
Hello,
this is my weekend update...

I've painted the garage door, the shed door and window frame and manage to work on my project too  >:D

I've finished the painting.  I still have to do some "polishing", but it's ready to reassemble...
- the finish is far from perfect, but I hate this part!!!  So I guess, this will do.

I also did my CP layout.  It's somehow similar to the "mission control" CP.
I've printed out the different components (joystick, pushbutton, trackball) and played around on the CP box.
I really like the way pixel hugger placed the two "P1" joysticks.  This configuration allows to use the same action
buttons regardless of the joystick used.

So here is the layout I intend to use.

The CP top dimensions are 34x15 3/4 (side) and 34x18 (center)
The outlines show the CP top, the outside and inside of the CP box

The CP features:
- P1 controls : 4-way and 8-way joystick + 6 action buttons
- P1 admin buttons : start + pause
- P2 controls : 8-way joystick + 6 action buttons
- P2 admin buttons : start + pause
- trackball + 3 mouse buttons
- general admin buttons : "Shift key (shazaam)", EXIT, ???
- pinball buttons (not shown) : 2 flipper, 2 tilt, 1 plunger (spring)

Now, can you tell me if you see any problems with this layout?
It seems comfortable so far, but this is my first CP...

For the Admin, I think 3 buttons will be enough
- shazam (shift key) to use P1/P2 start as P1/P2 coin and other "hidden" functions
- exit
- ??? do I need more? Do I need less.

For pinball, I planned to have 2 buttons on each side (flipper/nudge) and maybe 1 in the front (to launch the ball).
The one in the front might be dropped.  My CP box front is curved and that button might be difficult to install...

For the action buttons, is there any game that use 7 buttons instead of 6?  Or is it just to match the layout
of some action games (ie, the 7th button is a remap of one of the previous 6)

Finally, is it safe to install all the control now, even if the CP art is not printed yet?

Anyways, here's the snapshot in attachment.
Let me know what you think...

Thanks
Jay  :cheers:

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Jay,

Looking at your CP at first blush the 4-way may be a bit too close to the H360.  The mouse buttons are a bit close to the trackball as well.  If you get into a heavy game of golden tee or bowling you could hit one or more of those buttons mistakenly.  Depending on the location of your pinball buttons you might hit the player 2 buttons with your right thumb.

You could mount the controls but you would have to take them all off once the CP art arrives.  It is also better to wait until the artwork has arrived before you drill any holes.  This way the holes will line up with the artwork.  Use a scratch awl or center punch to mark through the artwork into the CP  , that way you will have an accurate drilling and cutting plan. Basically do the following, plan your layout, make your artwork fit the layout, print the artwork then drill and mount the controls.  This order will give you the best overall result.

Overall though your layout is more or less like the standard ones I have seen round here.  I don't see the need for the shazam button but that is personal prefference.  I'd rather put the coin buttons next to the start buttons and put the pause button in place of the shazam.  If I were to use a shazam button I'd put it somewhere out of the way and possibly hidden so it doesn't get hit by 'accident' during the middle of a heated battle of street fighter. ;)

TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Control Panel Layout ... need your feedback!!! (2007.07.29)
« Reply #122 on: August 01, 2007, 11:30:41 pm »
thanks Kaytrim for the feedback,

I re-did the CP layout in Illustrator (I was using visio before), because I'll night the lighting and other nice features from it.

On the first row, from left to right
   P1 start + Pause
   admin buttons
   mouse buttons
   P2 start + Pause

Then I have
   P1 joystick (4way pacman reunion)
   P1 joystick (8way happ P360)
   P1 action buttons
   Trackball
   P2 joystick (8way happ P360)
   P2 action buttons

On each side, there will be 2 pinball buttons (flipper+ side nudge)
maybe 1 pinball button on the front of cp box to "lauch" the ball

Looking at your CP at first blush the 4-way may be a bit too close to the H360.
I have increase a bit the offset between the 4way and 8way.
It seems comfortable on the real CP with my "paper joysticks"

The mouse buttons are a bit close to the trackball as well.  If you get into a heavy game of golden tee or bowling you could hit one or more of those buttons mistakenly.
I've moved the mouse buttons to the top of the CP.  If they get hit in a game of Golden Tee, chances are the finger will hit the monitor glass  ;)

Depending on the location of your pinball buttons you might hit the player 2 buttons with your right thumb.
I haven't change anything yet for this.  I'll see later.  Right now, I have a bit less than 2in to rest the thumb.
I think it should be ok.  If I hit some button, it will be P2-button 3 or 6.  I think these buttons aren't use in future pinball or virtual pinball right?

You could mount the controls but you would have to take them all off once the CP art arrives.  It is also better to wait until the artwork has arrived before you drill any holes.  This way the holes will line up with the artwork.  Use a scratch awl or center punch to mark through the artwork into the CP  , that way you will have an accurate drilling and cutting plan. Basically do the following, plan your layout, make your artwork fit the layout, print the artwork then drill and mount the controls.  This order will give you the best overall result.
I was afraid someone would say that  :'(
I was hoping to mount the CP right away and start playing. The order you describe makes sens and is what I'll do.
The good news, it that will prevent me to play with it before it's finished  :angel:

Overall though your layout is more or less like the standard ones I have seen round here.
I know... It's my first CP, so I looked around and took ideas from others...

Tell me if you have any other concerns (before it's too late  >:D)

In the mean time, I'll continue the CP/overlay/side logos artwork.
A friend of mine is creating my uromastyx (lizard) character to use in my artwork.
Can't wait to see it...

Good night
Jay  :cheers:

PS: I was wondering... what TTFN stands for?

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Control Panel Layout ... need your feedback!!! (2007.07.29)
« Reply #123 on: August 01, 2007, 11:55:56 pm »
Looks good to me Jay. There's a reason a lot of CP's have a similar layout...it works!

I think too many people try to reinvent the wheel for the sake of having something different to show here.
You need to go with what's comfortable/functional for you.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Control Panel Layout ... need your feedback!!! (2007.07.29)
« Reply #124 on: August 03, 2007, 10:17:31 am »
thanks Kaytrim for the feedback,
You could mount the controls but you would have to take them all off once the CP art arrives.  It is also better to wait until the artwork has arrived before you drill any holes.  This way the holes will line up with the artwork.  Use a scratch awl or center punch to mark through the artwork into the CP  , that way you will have an accurate drilling and cutting plan. Basically do the following, plan your layout, make your artwork fit the layout, print the artwork then drill and mount the controls.  This order will give you the best overall result.
I was afraid someone would say that  :'(
I was hoping to mount the CP right away and start playing. The order you describe makes sens and is what I'll do.
The good news, it that will prevent me to play with it before it's finished  :angel:

That is the true reason not to install the controls now.  Once it is playable you never get around to the finishing touches.

Quote

Overall though your layout is more or less like the standard ones I have seen round here.
I know... It's my first CP, so I looked around and took ideas from others...


That is the best way to learn, from other's mistakes.  ;D

Quote
PS: I was wondering... what TTFN stands for?

"TTFN, Ta Ta For Now"  Tigger, from Whinny the Poh. "That's T-I-dubble Gu-R" :laugh2:

TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
« Last Edit: August 03, 2007, 10:28:19 am by Kaytrim »

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Control Panel Layout ... need your feedback!!! (2007.07.29)
« Reply #125 on: August 04, 2007, 08:24:37 pm »
Small update to say that there's no progress done this weekend...

you see, I'm babysitting my 3 nephews (3, 7 and 9) and let say I don't have much time to spend on my project  :badmood:

That make me realize that my "real deadline" is nov 21st, where my girlfriend is supposed to "deliver" our first kid (a boy). 

If I'm not done by then, the uroMAMEstyx project will probably last another 3 years...

PS: Is there a way with illustrator to change the corner radius of a rounded rectangle once it is draw?
(I might post in the artwork section if I don't get any answer here...)

Cheers  :cheers:
Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Control Panel Layout ... need your feedback!!! (2007.07.29)
« Reply #126 on: August 12, 2007, 11:55:02 pm »
hello everyone,

I've put the project on hold this week because I had to work outside my house (remove and install new grass in front of the house).  Man my back hurst :'(

This is how the CP will look like... Well the colors aren't right, the light effects aren't right, but the general idea is...

The lizard (uromastyx) laying down on the "project name" is the bast I could do  :laugh2:
Hopefully, a friend of mine is working on that part.  I'll just have to vectorize it later...

For the marquee, the idea is the same :
- uromamestyx + lizard character

For the two 15" circular side logos:
- the same lizard character player with a joystick (idea is somewhat similar to gamecreatures logo...)

Tell me what you think

Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Control Panel Layout ... need your feedback!!! (2007.07.29)
« Reply #127 on: August 13, 2007, 01:20:34 am »
Man, I would not want to be the E in that artwork. 

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Control Panel Layout ... need your feedback!!! (2007.07.29)
« Reply #128 on: August 19, 2007, 09:42:43 pm »
Man, I would not want to be the E in that artwork. 
right on Coder!!!  Neither am I...   :laugh2:
I'm still working on me artworks...
A lot of time spent and few progess done....
Learning Illustrator is time consuming...
I wish there were some templates already available...

 Jay :cheers:

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uroMAMEstyx : Coin door restored (2007.08.19)
« Reply #129 on: August 19, 2007, 10:02:08 pm »
Hello Everyone,

This is the latest progress for the uroMAMEstyx...

I've restored my coin door.  The door wasn't really in bad shape, but there were some paint chips.

After seeking advice from this community, I tried the black rustoleum spray with hammered finish.  I tried it on a test piece and I didn't quite like the result.  It was a bit too grey... (dudeman warned me about this)

So what I ended up, was to "smooth" the paint chips using a wire cup brush and leaving as much of the original paint intact.  Then, I sprayed a few coats of black paint on it.  The result is pretty good and most of all, it preserved the original "bumpy" look.

Then, the other thing I did was to add an opening to pass the wires from the upper part to the bottom...

So here are some pic to illustrate this...

Cheers !
Jay  :cheers:
« Last Edit: August 19, 2007, 10:05:21 pm by superbigjay »

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Control Panel Layout ... need your feedback!!! (2007.07.29)
« Reply #130 on: August 21, 2007, 10:53:02 am »
Looking good jay.  I know all about those baby deadlines - I missed mine and I've been stalled for 6 weeks!   :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Control Panel Layout ... need your feedback!!! (2007.07.29)
« Reply #131 on: August 23, 2007, 12:02:03 am »
Looking good jay.  I know all about those baby deadlines - I missed mine and I've been stalled for 6 weeks!   :cheers:

Thanks Javeryh,  at first I thought it was funny that your number of post/days drop dramatically because you had less time for your Bella's project, but soon I realized that this is no laughing matter...  So I better finish the uroMAMEstyx before November 21st...  :-\

Now, for the update...
------------------------------------------------
I've put aside the artwork for now, because ... I suck  :badmood:
I'll work on it this weekend...

Last week I reinstalled the speaker (pic#1)
Tonight, I've installed the coin door in the cabinet (pic#2).

The coin door has a 12V counter on it (pic#3) not essential for the cab, but since it is there, why not use it.  So I followed clhug circuit (pic#4).
In my case, it will count only the "real quarters", since the "coin bypass" will be a shift key (using the shazam key + P1/P2 start)

Then I simplified the circuit for a 2 player cab and I redraw the circuit to take into account the 6pin connector coming from the coin door (pic#5

After that, I use my "not so good" soldering skills and build the circuit (pic#6)

The next steps
- verify the circuit connections.
- add molex connectors to the circuit.
- test the circuit in action.

That's it for tonight  :cheers:
Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Coin door installed (2007.08.22)
« Reply #132 on: August 23, 2007, 10:00:58 am »
Cool a fellow solder hacker. ;D  Have fun and keep at it.  Even though you have about 3 months left it is the software side that takes a lot of time to get right.

TTFN
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Coin door installed (2007.08.22)
« Reply #133 on: August 26, 2007, 09:27:37 pm »
Thanks Kaytrim for the feedback.

The software part is already in progress.
I already have few emulators up and running through Mala.
I still have to install my 2 LCD topgun and the LEDwiz.

I haven't tested the circuit yet... I'll see that later.

Project update : first marquee trial.
well, it's a fact.  I'm a Photoshop average Joe  :cry:

Here's my first trial for the marquee.  I'll eventually use that marquee to replace the "humping uro" on my CP overlay that was posted before and that Coder make fun of  ;D

I posted that image in the artwork forum to get as much feedback as possible.
(including source images...)

If you have any ideas, comments, hints, recommendations, please tell me.
I NEED HELP!!!  :-\

Good night
Jay  :cheers:


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Re: uroMAMEstyx : Coin door installed (2007.08.22)
« Reply #134 on: August 27, 2007, 09:58:28 pm »
The software part is already in progress.
...
I haven't tested the circuit yet... I'll see that later.

The circuit does not look right.  It looks like it will trigger a count when any of the buttons are pressed. 

The software is great to do late at night in the living room and/or kitchen table.  It gives your wife the illusion that you are there, when you are actually so involved that you can't even hear her.  Not that it's happened to me.

Good luck with the Photoshop work.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #135 on: August 27, 2007, 10:22:33 pm »
The circuit does not look right.  It looks like it will trigger a count when any of the buttons are pressed. 

I'm pretty sure the circuit is right.  It is intended to count all coin (P1+P2), while having separate inputs for P1 and P2 on the encoder.

Ex: insert coin in P1.
==> "P1 Coin" is shorted to gnd
==> encoder will detect P1_coin (pin 5 to gnd, pin 6 open)
==> the transistor emitter is shorted, letting a small current flow from B->E.  Acting as an amplifier, a greater current will go from C->E activating the 12V counter.

Similar process when inserting coin in P2...
==> "P2 Coin" is shorted to gnd
==> encoder will detect P2_coin (pin 5 open, pin 6 grounded)
==> the transistor emitter is shorted, letting a small current flow from B->E.  Acting as an amplifier, a greater current will go from C->E activating the 12V counter.

Anyways, if you still thing the logic is wrong, let me know.
I'll test it this weekend...

Jay

--------

For the marquee, anyone has comments/recommendations?

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #136 on: August 28, 2007, 12:01:28 am »
Ah, I get it.  It only increments on a real coin.  I was thinking about the dual button thing causing an increment; looking for the switches in series.  I didn't read your post thoroughly enough I guess.  Nice schematic.  What cad system did you use?

Regarding your artwork... I'd recommend a couple of things, both involving depth/dimension.  Ignore as you see fit.

1)  Add some shadows/highlights on the creatures.  Maybe a little dark brown on the bottom/right sides and light tan on the top/left sides.  If you use a brush with a lot of opacity, you can gently paint it in bit by bit. 

2)  Add some pizazz to the text.  Perhaps a pillow emboss, or drop shadow.

Also, how about a couple of really small flying teradactals to break up the open space towards the top.

I'm glad to your creature didn't "mount" the text.

Great progress.


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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #137 on: August 28, 2007, 10:01:29 pm »
All right, here's marquee rev0.1

As recommended by coder, I've added some shadow/tex/light to the lizard and to the text.

Any advice/comment??   
please...

PS: this is also posted in the artwork forum...

Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #138 on: August 29, 2007, 11:14:12 pm »
All right, here's another trial.

The background is still empty and the text on this one sucks, but you get the general idea.

Feedback please  ;)

Jay  :cheers:

Note: trial also posted in the artwork forum...

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #139 on: August 30, 2007, 01:50:54 am »
Those lizards with the other text and maybe some more color in the text or background would be great.  Each trial has had some improvements, but now you just need to take the good parts from each.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #140 on: August 30, 2007, 08:25:21 am »
Thanks bfauska,

So. so far, you would take the lizards from the last trial?

I'll try to come up with a nice text effect and background to go with these...

Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #141 on: August 30, 2007, 09:33:42 am »
I like the more comical lizards Jay.  See if you can lighten up the background some.  I don't think it will look all that nice back lit.  I would also go with the yellow text.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #142 on: August 30, 2007, 11:00:42 am »
I think you are getting better and better with each revision.  Even though I think you need a new font and a new background here's another idea....

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #143 on: August 30, 2007, 11:21:12 am »
I definitely like to new lizards.  But remember, it's your artwork and your cab.  You get to decide what advice to take/ignore.  With that said...

The background looks a bit bland.  What about adding some ground/sky/moon or some cool texture.

Look'n good.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #144 on: August 30, 2007, 06:40:30 pm »
Like Coder said, it's your cabinet so pick what you like, but since you are looking for suggestions...

I would do this layout and these lizards:


With this font:



And something LIKE this for the background, probably add some small distant mountains at the horizon, loose the palm trees and ships mast, taper/shrink the cracked ground texture and cartoon it up, but you get the point:







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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #145 on: August 31, 2007, 12:58:21 am »
thanks for the feedback,

I'll try to do another marquee trial tomorrow night if I have the time.  Stay posted.

Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #146 on: August 31, 2007, 05:21:34 am »
Coming along nicely.

Keep up the good work  :applaud:

psychotech

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #147 on: August 31, 2007, 11:57:33 pm »
Santa dropped by today.

I've received 2 other components for the CP.

1. the power button
Yellow and illuminated to match CP  >:D

2. the ubs hub. 
I will flush mount it directly on one side of the CP box.
It will give me 4 external ports for my 2 lcd topgun and 3 internal if I ever need them in the CP box.

As for the artwork, I've tried another version where I changed the circle around the lizards,
and added a background image.
I'm not sure if I'm gonna go with a background image since at 26in wide, the resolution of the image might be too low...  Anyone have a big enough image that he could send me (or link to it)?
Other recommendations?

So that's it for tonight guys!
Good night!
Jay  :cheers:
« Last Edit: August 31, 2007, 11:59:27 pm by superbigjay »

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #148 on: September 01, 2007, 01:22:09 am »
Cool power button.

I like the new marquee look.  I would think that background would be easy enough to create from scratch in PhotoShop or illustrator, you should be able to create a high res version. Maybe somebody with good PS or Ill. skills will help you out.

Keep up the good work, it looks like it's going to pay out.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #149 on: September 01, 2007, 01:54:38 am »
Webshots.com has some decent photo's as does images.com.  Look around on the web.

Great job on the marquee.  Looks MUCH better.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #150 on: September 01, 2007, 10:44:58 pm »
Forgive me father, because I've almost sinned...

A few days ago, I was testing some T-molding samples ordered back in march from t-molding.com.
The sample were a bit too wide for the cabinet edges (5/8).  For a moment I thought That the MDF I used wasn't exactly 5/8". 
On top of that, when I installed my coin door, it was a bit loose and I had to use some feltac to properly secure the coin door.
So I went to measure the mdf and it was in fact 5/8, but I wasn't 100% sure anymore  :dunno

So I resigned myself to go without the t-mold on the cab...  :cry:

I was scared to post this decision on this board because I thought how you guys would be disappointed  ;)

But then, today I remembered that all the mods I did while building the cab was taking into account a material of 5/8" and that everything was fitting perfectly.

So I went back on t-molding.com on my account and look at my order history.  There I could see : march 12, 2007 : 3/4 samples...

hehehe, that's why it didn't fit in the first place  :laugh2:

So I did my order for black t-molding...
I'll try the 1/16 slot cutter tomorrow or Monday


PS: thanks for the hint for the background Coder.  I'll take a look later.

Jay  :cheers:


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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #151 on: September 06, 2007, 01:13:21 am »
quick update on the project:

---------------------------
ARTWORK
---------------------------
Artwork:  this is how the final marquee will look like:


I'm still working on making the marquee "print at full size" compliant
- the text and circles around the lizard are rendered directly in photoshop
- the lizard have been vectorized by Zero_Hour  :cheers:

The only thing I have to figure out is how to generate the background for a full size print.
Right now, it's an image of a snake used as a background.
I need a similar effect for both the marquee and CP overlay (34x18)

Right now, I'm trying with a fill pattern on which I'll try to find some effect combination to get something similar.

So if anyone knows how to do it or have better idea, let me know  ;D



---------------------------
T-MOLDING
---------------------------
I haven't cut the slot yet.
I was suppose to do this this weekend, but I somehow lost the bearing for the slot cutter shaft (assembly)...
Because of the holiday, I had to wait for Tuesday to get the bearing a HomeDepot.

Then, I decided to wait for the actual t-mold to get here to make sure alignment is right.


So that's about it for tonight.
If anyone knows some good tricks to generate the background, let me know.
Zero_Hour, thanks again, for the vectorizing, it's really appreciated  :cheers:

Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #152 on: September 06, 2007, 02:07:30 am »
I don't know what version of Photoshop you are using but I've found a few scale tutorials online that use some presets available in photoshop v 7. 

Here they are and the have some really cool results:

A fairly basic use of the tools

A really fancy/glossy version of the scales

And this one is a tutorial on a scale-like texture created in The Gimp.  I imagine that some basic features of Photoshop could re-create this image too.

Not quite as cool but doesn't require PS7

I am starting to like the scale background quite a bit, I wonder though if it might look cooler to have less similar colors between the green lizard and the scales.  Maybe make the lizard or the scales yellow, didn't you mention some yellow in the lighting of your cabinet earlier?

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #153 on: September 06, 2007, 03:49:58 am »
Those tutorials are pretty slick, and definitely easy enough for anyone with a basic knowledge of PS to pull off some nice effects.

Definitely like where this is going. Happy I could help out a bit.  :cheers:
"Paradise, is exactly like where you are right now - only much, MUCH better." -Laurie Anderson

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #154 on: September 06, 2007, 09:23:05 am »
I don't know what version of Photoshop you are using but I've found a few scale tutorials online that use some presets available in photoshop v 7. 

Here they are and the have some really cool results:

A fairly basic use of the tools

A really fancy/glossy version of the scales

And this one is a tutorial on a scale-like texture created in The Gimp.  I imagine that some basic features of Photoshop could re-create this image too.

Not quite as cool but doesn't require PS7

I am starting to like the scale background quite a bit, I wonder though if it might look cooler to have less similar colors between the green lizard and the scales.  Maybe make the lizard or the scales yellow, didn't you mention some yellow in the lighting of your cabinet earlier?

Thanks bfauska, these tutorials will probably do the trick!!!  :notworthy:

For the lizard/background color, I'll adjust them to match the yellow color.
With Zero's vectorized lizards, it will be easy to change the color  :applaud:

Yeah!!
Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #155 on: September 06, 2007, 09:43:55 am »
That is one sick marquee Jay. :cheers:

TTFN
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #156 on: September 06, 2007, 09:47:02 am »
That is one sick marquee Jay. :cheers:

TTFN
Kaytrim

I totally agree.  It just keeps getting better.  Awesome job!   :cheers:

I really need to learn the basics of Photoshop...

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #157 on: September 07, 2007, 12:53:41 am »
Quote from: javeryh link=topic=64434.msg728167#msg728167 date=1189086422

I really need to learn the basics of Photoshop...
[/quote

If you are not averse to book reading, I highly recommend the Photoshop Bible, by Deke McClelland. I first picked up a copy back in grad school (PS 3), and used it for several years as a reference, even as I moved onto newer versions of the software. It is comprehensive, and broken down in such a way as to allow you to really understand the whole App, from setup to tools, to advanced techniques.

While there are tons of tutorials on the net, I still think that the text is useful when you run into a procedure using tools, or methods you are unfamiliar with. It's the best software training text I've ever used, and that's coming from someone who has taught and learned dozens of Apps over the years.
"Paradise, is exactly like where you are right now - only much, MUCH better." -Laurie Anderson

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #158 on: September 16, 2007, 03:34:40 pm »
hello every one!

I didn't worked much on my project last week...

In fact, I didn't worked on it at all.  I didn't even thought about it 1 minute  The main reason been shown on the first pic...  :cheers:

I've spent last week in Cuba, Varadero.  Spending my day under the sun, at the beach drinking either a Rum punch, a Cuba Libre or a nice Mojitos...

I just got back this morning at 7h00AM (we left the hotel at 0h00)...

So after a good breakfast at the restaurant (the fridge is empty), Picking up the dog, I went through my mail and I has some bills and a package : My T-mold from T-molding.com. (pic#2)

Since I didn't really sleep since Saturday morning, I didn't attempt to use the router.  In fact, I'm having trouble to use the keyboard right now.

So I decided to finish the touch up on the illustrator files Zero's sent me  :cheers:
I added some shading/hi-lights and change the feet (toes) of the orange lizard (make them a bit
more chubby) (see pic #3 and #4)

This week's plan is to:
- finish the artwork (IE, find a nice background via photoshop features)
- install the t-molding and bring the beast in the living room to free some garage space
  (some friends started to give us some baby clothes, and I need the space)

So that's it folks!

Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #159 on: September 17, 2007, 03:06:24 am »

...Since I didn't really sleep since Saturday morning, I didn't attempt to use the router.  In fact, I'm having trouble to use the keyboard right now.

...make them a bit more chubby) (see pic #3 and #4)

Lack of sleep huh?  Are you sure it's not from the Rum?

Speaking of "more chubby", congratulations (or condolances, whichever is appropriate) on the pregnancy.  The clock is ticking now on finishing up this project.

Fantastic job on the marquee BTW.  Much better than your first couple of drafts.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #160 on: September 20, 2007, 01:14:04 am »
Lack of sleep huh?  Are you sure it's not from the Rum?
>:D

Speaking of "more chubby", congratulations (or condolances, whichever is appropriate) on the pregnancy.  The clock is ticking now on finishing up this project.
Chubby is a word I don't use (read afraid) in front of my girlfriend right now  ;)
As you said, the clock is really ticking right now... I've got max 10 weeks and so many things to do...
- install the fence in the backyard for the dogs
- install shelves in the baby's room wardrobe
- finish the cab ASAP.....  :cry:

I remember Javeryh stop posting for 3 weeks when he got a special package delivered by his wife...

Fantastic job on the marquee BTW.  Much better than your first couple of drafts.
Thanks, I really have to complete the artwork, because this is what is stalling me from
starting to mount the controls/electronics in the CP.

My goal is to be done with it sunday night.

I think I'm almost there.

Here my latest trial (also posted in the artwork section to get as much feedback as possible).

This time I went with some stainless steel effect to match the cab sides. 
The background is kind of yellow/brown to match the buttons/trackball.
As for the lizards, I'm not 100% sure about the color...

If any of you have any advice, please let me know.  I really suck at choosing colors...
Feel free to post your advice here or in the artwork forum (this is for you bfauska  ;))

Jay  :cheers:




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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #161 on: September 20, 2007, 02:54:19 am »
In keeping with form, I'll reply here instead of the artwork post.  I like the steel look better than the other look I think, but it seems to work better in the circles than the words.  In the words it seems a bit too "patterned" or regular.  Of the lizard color choices I like them best in this version and earlier versions, not the version with them both the same color.  I think the scales look pretty cool.  In the last version with the "rust" circles and text (looked like gingerbread w/ powdered sugar to me) the scales had lines separating them that looked too fat, this one is better I think.  I just went back to the artwork thread to double check something and saw a glance of where this started out, WOW, it's come a long way, I think that any of the last few versions would have looked nice printed and lit, now it's just fine tuning and polishing to greatness.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #162 on: September 20, 2007, 01:17:19 pm »
I agree with bfuska the title seems off someway.  Keep the rest as you have it now.  Lock it if you can. ;)  Try to make the title look like the buttons, a transparent yellow.  If you don't like that you can try something else, but don't change anything else.

Congrats on the little bun in the oven. :cheers:

TTFN
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #163 on: September 21, 2007, 12:57:42 am »
Congrats on the little bun in the oven. :cheers:
Thanks!!!  The thing that scares me the most about this "bun", is that my mother in law
will come to help us for a few days...  ;)

I like the steel look better than the other look I think, but it seems to work better in the circles than the words.
Thanks bfauska,
both circles and text are using emboss + chisel.  This gives the impression there's some anti-aliasing on the text,
especially on the top of it.  If I go with the stainless finish, I fix this by either increasing the contrast, or
by using a "smoother" emboss.

As for the marquee, I did some trials to find other metal effects, but didn't end up with
anything good to post.  :banghead:

I did another trial with some sort of yellow translucent plastic effect to see how it
would look like.  However, I'm not sure how it will look once lit...
the yellow color is a bit off, but you get the idea...

So the only thing left is to decide the effect on the text/circle.
- plastic look
- stainless look
- other suggestions? effect tutorial to try??

So far, I have a preference for the stainless finish...

I need to make up my mind for Saturday morning, because I'd like to complete
the artwork for Monday...

Jay :cheers: zzzzzZZZZZ

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #164 on: September 21, 2007, 01:54:06 am »
I think I like the yellow best.  I like the slight transparency of it too.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #165 on: September 21, 2007, 03:21:19 pm »
I like the yellow transparent letting too.  Maybe see how the silver circles will look with the yellow lettering?  It's really coming together...   :cheers:

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uroMAMEstyx artwork : final trials for approval (070923)
« Reply #166 on: September 23, 2007, 04:24:33 pm »
Ok, I'm doing the final round of marquee.

These are done at full scale in illustrator+photoshop (300dpi).

Let me know what is your favorite:

First trial with the chrome effect:


Second with Stainless effect:


Third with gradient text + metal outline:


And last, the yellow plastic effect.


And finally, I'm including a zoom of the background to give you an idea of the texture...


So far, my 2 fav are the stainless and gradient.
I didn't manage to tune the plastic effect properly.

Let me know what you think!!!

PS: double post in project annoucement + artwork to get as much feedback as possible  ;)

EDIT: update plastic version to add stroke around the text.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2007, 08:05:56 pm by superbigjay »

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #167 on: September 23, 2007, 09:35:46 pm »
I'm liking the third one.  I think that will look the best when backlit.

TTFN

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Re: uroMAMEstyx artwork : final trials for approval (070923)
« Reply #168 on: September 23, 2007, 11:27:41 pm »
Ok, double post again...

Based on Coder's and Joystick Jerk feedback, I'm reducing the range to the font with yellow text.
They'll probably look better when back lit than the darker ones.

So let me know your favorite between these ones:

#1 : gradient effect + orange background


#2 : gradient effect + green background


#3 : plain yellow + orange background


#4 : plain yellow + green background


Thanks again for answering always to the same question again and again. 
It's real tough to make the final decision...  :dunno

PS:
The side logos are also ready.  Just need to apply the same effect on this layout.

Note1: The gray area represent the stainless steel side panels
Note2: The circle lines were there for the text arc radius alignment.

Now, I just have to vectorize the CP overlay, which is about 75% done...

Good night folks!
Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #169 on: September 24, 2007, 12:26:46 am »
#1, but... what do you think it would look like if you did an emboss effect on just the outline?  I haven't read the artwork post yet so I don't know what JJ or Coder said, but if it was anything like "the title being the darkest thing on a back lit sign may be odd, I think it should be a light color"  then I totally agree with them and your decision to limit the choices to yellow text.  I also think the latest scales (in the yellow) are the best ones yet, good work.

In answer to your question about my art in my thread, no, but maybe I'll try some tonight.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #170 on: September 24, 2007, 02:54:49 am »
#1 if going with yellow t-molding.  #2 if going with green t-molding.

Either one looks great.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #171 on: September 27, 2007, 01:03:51 pm »
All right!  I've made my mind on the artwork.

All the required effects/color are written down in my log book.

I should be able to post the final pic of the marquee, side logo and CP overlay Saturday.

Thanks again for everyone feedback  :applaud:

Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #172 on: September 27, 2007, 01:06:56 pm »
#1 if going with yellow t-molding.  #2 if going with green t-molding.

Either one looks great.

Thanks Coder,
I'm going with something similar to #1.
BTW, the T-mold is black.  I didn't really like how the yellow t-mold look with the stainless.  So I played safe, and stayed with black...

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : marquee revision 0.0 (2007.08.26)
« Reply #173 on: September 30, 2007, 11:45:32 pm »
Well, I guess I'm done with the artwork.
So it will the last of my double post (project announcement + artwork)

I should be able to make it print Tuesday...

If you see a major flaw in these, let me know.
It's not perfect, but overall, I'm pretty satisfied with the result and it's unique.

I will probably add my signature somewhere on the cp-overlay (something discreet...)  ;D

So here it is...
The top marquee : 28inx7.5in


The 2 circular side logos : 16in diam


The Control Panel overlay : 35inx19in


Here's the link to the 1600 pixels wide file (if you want a larger view).
The jpg are a bit "blurry" because of the compression, but you get the idea  ;)
http://img475.imageshack.us/img475/9066/resizeofmarqueecj6.jpg
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/8833/resizeofsidelogoaz2.jpg
http://img463.imageshack.us/img463/2769/resizeofcpoverlayey5.jpg

Thanks again to everyone who gave me some feedback.
It went a long way from the first trial  ;D
And now, I'm pretty handy with illustrator.

Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx artwork done and ready to print (2007.09.30)
« Reply #174 on: October 01, 2007, 09:43:09 am »
Jay,

This is one unique machine and one that should be in the archives. :applaud:  Excellent job on the artwork can't wait to see it on the cab.

TTFN
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx artwork done and ready to print (2007.09.30)
« Reply #175 on: October 05, 2007, 11:44:45 pm »
Thanks Kaytrim!

Well, it's done.
I went to drop a DVD with the artwork to a local print shop to get it print.

It's expensive, but since I already put so much time, effort and money on that thing, I went through with it.

It should be ready early next week...

In the mean time, I'll work this long weekend on my custom mala layout.

Good night
Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : t-molding slot done & cab is in da house (2007.10.07)
« Reply #176 on: October 07, 2007, 11:07:36 pm »
Hello everyone!

today is a BIG day for me.

First I finally cut the t-molding slot.  I don't know exactly why, but this step was scaring me somehow and I was trying to avoid it...

Well, since the artwork is at the print shop right now, and the t-mold slot was the only thing left before bringing the cab in the house, well I decided to do it today...

So I installed the 1/16 slot cutter on one of my router, did a few trial on a scrap piece of MDF to adjust the center (pic#1).

Then, I took the cab outside for a bit of fresh air, install it on its side on a blanket and route that slot! (pic#2 + #3)

woooohooooo!  a smooth ride  :applaud:

I turned the cab on the other side and again route that side.

The router left a small mark on the cab side, so I polished it a bit and gave it another coat of clear gloss.

Then I took the upper part of the cab outside and routed that part too.  (this is the part of the cab I really didn't want to do again: the stainless is a pain to work with...)

Hopefully, everything when well!!!

The other big part was to bring the cab "in da house".

I asked my friendly neighbor to help me with the cab (my girlfriend being not in a condition to lift that thing...)

and here it is, (disassembled) in my living room (pic#4).

Tomorrow, I'll install the t-mold.  I just have to go get a "mallet"

Quick question:
---------------------------------
to install the t-mold, do I just have to insert it in the slot with the mallet or do I need to use some sort of glue at the t-mold ends?

thanks
Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : t-molding slot done & cab is in da house (2007.10.07)
« Reply #177 on: October 07, 2007, 11:12:18 pm »
Since you cut a 1/16" slot all you need is a rubber mallet.  You are in the home stretch man don't look back now. :cheers:

TTFN
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : t-molding slot done & cab is in da house (2007.10.07)
« Reply #178 on: October 08, 2007, 08:09:43 pm »
Since you cut a 1/16" slot all you need is a rubber mallet. 
Thanks Kaytrim!

I went over my friend and borrowed his rubber mallet.

So I did the installation of the t-molding.
A simple enough operation.

For the upper part of the cab, the t-mold is going all the way around.

So I started at the bottom (the less visible part) and inserted the t-mold. 
Then, with the mallet I gently tap it in its slot. (pic#1)

For the corners, I cut the t-molding to allow it to be bent properly (pic#2)
Again, with the mallet and a slight pull, I "pushed" the t-mold into place.

Repeating that process until all the cab circumference is covered with the t-molding.

Then I did the same for the lower part front and back side.

Once done, I couldn't wait to put the 2 pieces back together.

Since my girlfriend couldn't really help, I decided to do this part on my own
(I know, not really clever, but I wanted to do it now!!!)

So I grabbed the upper part and installed it on the cabinet base.
Hopefully, I modified the UA2 plans so that they can be easily assembled
(by 1 person  >:D)  (pic#3).

The last pic, is to show that famous rubber mallet (pic#4)

Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : t-molding installed and cab assembled (2007.10.08)
« Reply #179 on: October 08, 2007, 08:20:51 pm »
So you went all Jumpman on the cab eh? :laugh2:  Looks good all in one piece doesn't it?  Now get the guts in that thing. :cheers:

TTFN

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : t-molding installed and cab assembled (2007.10.08)
« Reply #180 on: October 08, 2007, 10:44:21 pm »
Looks good all in one piece doesn't it?  Now get the guts in that thing. :cheers:
Ooooh yeah!
It's pretty impressive.  the UA2 cabinet is HUUUUGE!
I can't wait to receive the printed artwork.  I'm suppose to get it sometime this week.
Then, I'll start to mount the controls on the CP!!!

I did my first version of Mala layout today
It's not so bad, but I still have to tweak the fonts size/effect to make it easier to read...

Tell me what you think!!

Good night!
Jay  :cheers:

javeryh

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : t-molding installed and cab assembled (2007.10.08)
« Reply #181 on: October 08, 2007, 11:09:50 pm »
Awesome job.  I'm quite jealous of your cab.  How hard was making the MaLa layout?  I really want to make one but I'm afraid I don't have te necessary skills - I've never used photoshop or any type of computer drawing program.  You definitely have a one of a kind cabinet which I think is the coolest part of this hobby - the marquee, side art and MaLa layout tie everything together.  Nice job!!   :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : t-molding installed and cab assembled (2007.10.08)
« Reply #182 on: October 08, 2007, 11:16:09 pm »
Looking great SBJ, you are definitely going to have a cabinet that can get ranked up there with the greats.  The theme is being excellently carried out.  I don't usually like the look of the UA2 cabs, but that brushed metal top half makes it look very nice.  You're on the home stretch now, keep it going.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : t-molding installed and cab assembled (2007.10.08)
« Reply #183 on: October 16, 2007, 09:17:06 pm »
@ Javeryh
Thanks, but there's nothing to be jealous of.  Your cab is awesome, especially the paintjob.  I'm pretty sure if you spend 1/4 of the time on your Mala layout, it will be great  ;)
BTW, let me know for a "second pass" on your Mala layout...

@ Bfauska
Thanks man, the real stainless side was a touch I wanted to have something slightly different than the other  >:D

@ everyone : I got the artwork at home!!!
I pick it up today.
The marquee + side logo (backlit stuff) is printed on a vinyl sticker glued on a white plexi with a laminate process on top of it.
This gives really good results at diffusing light.

They also printed the CP overlay that way (mis-communication between us), so they printed an additional copy on a glossy paper (covered by a transparent plexi).

The pics...
pic#1 : the marquee with the 24in T-5 neon.
pic#2 : the 2 side logos
pic#3 : the CP overlay

I'll probably trim with the router all plexis and install the marquee+sidelogo this weekend.

In the mean time, I'm continuing my Mugen setup with password protection for the "naked/too violent" characters (for my nephews)

Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : got the artwork at home (2007.10.16)
« Reply #184 on: October 16, 2007, 09:21:00 pm »
Jay,

This stuff looks great.  It looks like a pro did them.  This is really a unique cabinet and I can't wait to see it completed.

TTFN
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : got the artwork at home (2007.10.16)
« Reply #185 on: October 16, 2007, 09:30:44 pm »
This stuff looks great.  It looks like a pro did them.  This is really a unique cabinet and I can't wait to see it completed.
Thanks Kaytrim,

It was in fact printed by a shop that specializes for business.
It was expensive, but I think it worth it ... and at this point, I've stop counting  :cry:

Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : got the artwork at home (2007.10.16)
« Reply #186 on: October 16, 2007, 09:34:14 pm »
This stuff looks great.  It looks like a pro did them.  This is really a unique cabinet and I can't wait to see it completed.
Thanks Kaytrim,

It was in fact printed by a shop that specializes for business.
It was expensive, but I think it worth it ... and at this point, I've stop counting  :cry:

Jay  :cheers:

I wasn't talking about where you got it printed.  I was talking about who created the artwork, YOU. :cheers:

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : got the artwork at home (2007.10.16)
« Reply #187 on: October 16, 2007, 09:38:12 pm »
hey hey hey....
Thanks Kaytrim  >:D

Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : got the artwork at home (2007.10.16)
« Reply #188 on: October 16, 2007, 11:45:04 pm »
They're looking great so far.  They should look fantastic lit up and filled with buttons.  You're sooooooooo close.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : got the artwork at home (2007.10.16)
« Reply #189 on: October 17, 2007, 05:14:40 pm »
Wow!  Sick!!!  I love it.  Almost done...  Something tells me this is one of those 99% projects where you set up the controls and realize you just created something completely awesome and every time you go near it you want to play instead of finishing that last 1%...  Keep it going!

Also, I still haven't played with the MaLa layout you made for me - stupid real life getting in the way again...  The plan is to tinker tonight unless the wifey thinks otherwise - I'll let you know how it goes...   :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : got the artwork at home (2007.10.16)
« Reply #190 on: October 17, 2007, 08:43:25 pm »
Something tells me this is one of those 99% projects where you set up the controls and realize you just created something completely awesome and every time you go near it you want to play instead of finishing that last 1%...
>:D

I hope top have something functional by october 31st.  It's my nephew's BD and it would be awesome to have the cab ready in 2 week...
If not, the real deadline is nov 21st...

Jay  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx : got the artwork at home (2007.10.16)
« Reply #191 on: October 18, 2007, 11:46:51 pm »
Late night update, but not much done...


Install the T5 neon (pic#1)
I've installed the marquee light fixture.  It's a 24in T5 neon.  Really small diameter.
Nothing complicated : 2 brackets, 1 screw/bracket and clip the fixture into place.

Install the Marquee light reflector (pic#2)
I've installed the neon reflector.  I had some piece of scrap Luan and some metallic
vinyl left (from my side logos reflectors).  So I cut a piece of Luan, put the sticker
on it and installed it in the cab.  I've used some foam tape to secure everything
into place

Cut the Marquee retainer (pic#3)
his is an idea I got be reading one of Senator's post.  I went to Reno-Depot and got
a L-brackets for drop ceilings.  It cost me 3.75$ for 8ft.  The 10ft was 3.73$ (???),
but the 8ft was enough and fit better in my car.
I already sanded the edges.  The only thing left is to slightly bent the lower retainer
to compensate for the angled speaker shelf, drill the holes and paint if black.

No Cover Logo (pic#4)
And finally, the last thing I did tonight was to do a small logo for the jukebox
program (skjukebox or multijuke) when no album cover is available.

So that's about it for now.

Jay  :cheers:

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