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| RandyT:
I guess I'll chime in on this too :) Sorry about the huge post. --- Quote from: paigeoliver on March 13, 2007, 01:02:10 am ---#1. The two piece cabinet. --- End quote --- Honestly, I can't find flaw in doing this. Innovation in cabinet design is what made the arcades what they were, and embracing that concept when one builds their own vision, be it 2 piece or more, is just dandy in my book. It would be nice if they weren't all identical, but if you like the same design someone else uses, then there's no problem in adopting it for yourself. --- Quote ---#2. The notch at the back of the cabinet near the ground. <snip> #3. The notch at the front of the cabinet. <snip> --- End quote --- Again, similar answer to #1, but with a caveat. If you can't move it, it's probably not a great design. You spent a lot of time and money building the cab, so assume that you will A: want to keep it a while, which means you will eventually want to move it, or B: want to sell it at some point to recoup some of your investment. Doing things that make those exceedingly difficult should probably be avoided. --- Quote ---#4. Cabinets with internal frames. Arcade cabinets do not need internal frames made out of 2x4s. It is just added weight with no functionality. --- End quote --- Hmmm....I might agree that cabinets don't need internal frames made out of 2x4's, but there is a lot of stuff in real arcade games that could be considered "framing". The construction methods are based on some heavy duty cabinetry skills that, let's be realistic, all aren't going to possess. Framing is a shortcut that provides stability, and when used sparingly, won't add that much to the weight, but can go a long way in keeping your cabinet from getting the "shakes." --- Quote ---#5. Angled joysticks.<snip> --- End quote --- Agreed. If a control isn't in the correct orientation with the screen, It's probably going to be a pain for the individual using it. --- Quote ---#6. Too much depth in the control panels.<snip> --- End quote --- I have to go back to #1 on this one. Avoid the "flying wing" designs, but if someone wants to make sure they have room for a trackball, spinner, dedicated 4-way, etc., deep panels are going to be unavoidable. It's hard to justify not doing something solely because "it wasn't done that way in the arcades." There were a lot of artificial limitations in cabinets designed for commercial deployment that just don't apply for a home machine. --- Quote ---#7. Grafting large panels onto classic cabinets. --- End quote --- I can see the point with this one. Use good design and safety sense if you must. --- Quote ---#8. Adding a dedicated 4-way, but using the WRONG one.<snip> --- End quote --- 100% agree. Don't burn the CP space with a bad control. Makes no sense. --- Quote ---#9. Tiny monitor, with a piece of black construction paper bezel.<snip> --- End quote --- Again, 100% agree. If you don't have the scratch for a larger monitor, build a smaller cabinet. A 4-player monstrosity is pointless when there is a 15" screen inside and the players have a hard time seeing what's happening. Very nice looking and functional cabinets can be built around smaller monitors. --- Quote ---#10. Using various "hacks" when they just are not needed anymore. This is not 1998 anymore. <snip> --- End quote --- I should probably abstain from commenting on this one, as it won't be seen as anything other than a veiled attempt to drum up business, but for the most part, this is true. Keyboard hacks = bad and anyone will have a very difficult time convincing me otherwise. However, a properly done gamepad hack can be ok. The real issue is that several things need to be in place for it to be done well and that doesn't always (often?) happen. One needs a very good gamepad to start with, as they are definitely not all created equal. Knowing which is which is going to be found by trial and error, and by the time you know you have a good one, you might as well have saved yourself the time and frustration and just bought the dedicated part. Then, the soldering skills come into play. Some gamepads are simple to solder to and some are nightmares. And if one has never (or rarely) soldered before attempting this, it's probably not going to be pretty, even on the simple ones. But I can see the value of someone wanting to use a console in their arcade system for certain games. Personally, I think there are plenty of games for the cab in the PC realm, but if you really need to play Virtua Tekken Apha Tag Fighter Deluxe Tournament Edition on your cabinet, there are few other options. :) RandyT |
| Numbski:
--- Quote from: HarumaN on March 13, 2007, 09:43:03 am --- --- Quote from: Numbski on March 13, 2007, 09:14:32 am ---Well, I may wind up re-doing my CP top, and if I do, then I need some opinions: Originally I was just going to do a custom overlay, but I made enough mistakes building the top that I may just do it over. No angled outer players???? Dimensions are roughly 48"x15.5" I designed the game for maximum elbow room. The thing that drove me nuts about fighting game cabinets, is that player 2 always seemed to be at a disadvantage, as either you had to elbow your opponent, or hold your arm at some screwy cock-eyed angle. On new year's eve, myself and three other guys completed TMNT with no issues, and I was in the player 1 slot for that game (far left, angled) and I didn't notice at all. Is this really such a bane? I have the rest of the pics here: http://www.numbski.com/cab and the panel work I'm doing now here: http://www.numbski.com/hacks/cab anyhoo... :dizzy: --- End quote --- Also, players 3 & 4 (your outer players) need 4 buttons at the very most. --- End quote --- Ah, not so fast grasshoppa.. :) I do need those. I'm intending to set up Mugen for 4-player, plus the X-Men vs. Street Fighter 4-player hack, etc. I had actually considered getting an X-Arcade interface to use on consoles, but I see that being discouraged. Ideally, I'd like to make a logic gate so that I can push a button and have all of the controls shift from PC, to game console, to Jamma board, etc. I know there's multi-jamma, but I really need like Multi-Jamma++++ (with all those inputs). It's a work in progress. ;) |
| HaRuMaN:
--- Quote from: Numbski on March 13, 2007, 10:45:21 am ---Ah, not so fast grasshoppa.. :) I do need those. I'm intending to set up Mugen for 4-player, plus the X-Men vs. Street Fighter 4-player hack, etc. I had actually considered getting an X-Arcade interface to use on consoles, but I see that being discouraged. Ideally, I'd like to make a logic gate so that I can push a button and have all of the controls shift from PC, to game console, to Jamma board, etc. I know there's multi-jamma, but I really need like Multi-Jamma++++ (with all those inputs). It's a work in progress. ;) --- End quote --- Ah ok, didn't know you were running Mugen. Also, there is an X-men vs. Street Fighter 4 player hack?? How? |
| Organic Jerk:
--- Quote from: paigeoliver on March 13, 2007, 02:36:11 am ---Ok, here is a picture of the infamous rear notch attached at the bottom of this post. --- End quote --- Well then I figure you're going to hate my cab plan, as it's originally based off a Marvel vs Capcom cab (which has a front notch) and I actually changed things from there. I also have a pretty deep CP. That said, I will be making a 2nd mame cab in the style of a Galaga/Ms. Pac Man for older games sometime in the future.. --- Quote from: Numbski on March 13, 2007, 10:45:21 am ---plus the X-Men vs. Street Fighter 4-player hack --- End quote --- Whaaaa??? |
| btp2k2:
--- Quote from: spelosi on March 13, 2007, 09:52:09 am --- --- Quote from: btp2k2 on March 13, 2007, 02:00:09 am ---Yeah, what is wrong with gamepad hacks? I am in the process of making a cabinet running my Sega Dreamcast...you got a better solution than a gamepad hack? --- End quote --- I don't have a problem with gamepad hacks, but to save yourself A LOT of time you could go with an x-arcade stick, gut it and install it in your CP. They sell an adapter to use the x-arcade with Dreamcast. I'm using a gutted tankstick in my CP and am very happy with it. X-gaming also sells do-it-yourself kits, so you don't have to gut the x-arcade. This could save some dollars, but is only really valuable if you don't want to use their bottons. I used their buttons for a while, but now I've swapped them all out. Anyway, it's a better option than a gamepad hack. Good luck! Steve --- End quote --- The DIY card from X-Arcade is 60 bucks, plus another 20 for the adapter. So, how much money would I really be saving? Also, someone mentioned if it would be really be a cheap cabinet considering the cost of console, monitor, etc....I already have the console and a 27 inch TV that looks stunning. I am also replacing the controls on my main cabinet with new sticks and buttons, so I am using the controls that are coming off the main cab for this project. So in reality, all I have to pay for is the material to build the sucker. As far as moving it? Well.....ever hear of casters? Roll that sucker up to my F150 with automatic lift gate....1 person job buddy. Sure I can play Street Fighter III on my Dreamcast, sitting on the couch with gamepad in hand...no problems....but let's be honest....who in this forum wouldn't want to play it while grasping authentic arcade controls in front of a full size arcade cabinet? Thought so...... |
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