Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
I don't believe it, another classic added => Centipede ! FINISHED !!!!
Level42:
Some video may give a better impression than the pics....
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JlfezwBHn7U[/youtube]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-aoaatzdXk[/youtube]
Level42:
Progress is slow.....X-mas holiday was over last thursday....
About the Daewoo TV: Don't ask me why or how, after the first time I connected it to the Galaxian (and it worked at that moment) it went back to the same behaviour as when it was connected to the Centipede: steady black screen !
I downloaded the Service Manual and found this:
Sooooooo, since I'm puttin in 5 Volts on Pin 16 on the SCART, I bet the switching input selects OSD mode (>4V). This explains the all black screen, it was in OSD mode, but there was no OSD data to be displayed produced by the TV........
So, I need to put in something between 0.9 and 3 Volt !!! This was no problem with the older Philips, but it is on this one. And I have to admit that those values are the correct one's according to the SCART definition, so it's my own fault :D
Anyway, I soldered a 150 Ohms resistor in series with the +5V to lower it a bit, and it did the trick :D
Glad that I got that working !
However, there seem to be some sync problems with the Galaxian. I never noticed this when the Philips was in the Galaxian....there's a bit of jumping of lines on the right side....
Now, I would try to adjust some settings, but this Daewoo needs a special Service Remote to get into the set-up screens :( ! Sigh......OK, SCART is great but it's not without problems to get a perfect picture (I'm a perfectionist on this...) Saw a Service Remote for $7,95 somewhere so I guess I'll order it...
Went to Suzo last friday to get some parts. The main thing (black T-molding) they didn't have on stock. This comes from Suzo UK. They sell it only a couple of times per year here.....
The good news about Suzo is that I can buy anything from the Happ catalog now as well. And of course there's some overhead for transport, but they have 2-weekly regular shipments, so f.i. for getting a monitor this is a great option. Price should be about the same in Euro's as it's listed in Dollars (but that's without VAT :(
Anyway, did get some of those less glamorous parts, but still important:
The Terry clips were rusted away....amazing how some parts never change :D
Some things do change however....(I didn't trust the contacts of the TL holders much, might have been rusted as well...)
Original:
New:
And the total, ready for another 30 years :D:
Level42:
Finally opened the little coin door on the bottom of my cab. It's strange, other Irish cab's I've seen don't seem to have this ...
Anyway the lock was a little harder than usual to force mainly because of it's position I guess.
That big white scratch is entirely my stupidness, but it's going to have to be repainted anyway. The door is _really_ thick.
As I expected (I could hear it working when creditting the game) the coincounter is mounted here. This is all a bit strange, normaly it would be at the big coindoor. In this case, it's a great thing, because there is no coincounter "holder" on my "new" coindoor....and it is welded on the old one....
Here you can see where the coins are received. Not a metal or plastic box but a bag ! :D
Inside of the "old" door. Nothing really special. I mounted the Guilder coin selector, because these were removed before. On the lower right you can see the empty holder for the counter. This is missing on the "new" door....
The doors compared...with flash:
and without (shows the dents a lot better):
I still got the sticker sheet that came with the manual. Should I put the one with the Atari logo on or not ? (Hides some of the scratches....)
Level42:
Man....gotta clean up this wiring mess :D (Works, but can't leave it like that of course....)
Painting. It's a slow process. This is the CP after it's second layer of primer.
Do I need to sand it now ? It feels very smooth. Or can I start the first layer of black ?
Level42:
Well....I finaly took the plunge....I finished the CP with 3 layers of black, and I still wasn't happy with the look of it, but as long as it protects the metal it's fine.
This CPO application was a lot harder than that of the Galaxian. Not only does this one cover the entire CP (with lots of corners), also the CPO doesn't have pre-made holes for the controls.
I was wondering if I should cut the holes first or the other way around. The first option I quickly forgot about, thinking it would be impossible to do 100% right.
But the other way around isn't much easier. I punched holes at the spot where the cross-hairs for the controls were, for reference. And then I just went ahead. At one point, the panel slipped out of my hand, and it kinda wrinkled the CPO to the right of the trackball spot....I'll have to live with that.
I also discovered that there are some small bubbles here and there.....even though I was so careful about that.
All in all, is sure beats how it looked before the renovation...
I decided to get the new V2.0 ICE trackball and pushbutton from GGG because I don't like the look of the orange (when not lit) trackball mostly. The new polished look of the ICE-ball is just what triggered me to decide for it.
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