Ok, the measurements I remembered were correct. (I brought my "Project Book" into work today
If you were to frame the three sides of the monitor, leaving the top open, the base would be 18.5" x 15", and the sides 15" x 15".
Front piece would be 3/4" thick.
Now, I'll warn you that the VGA cable for the monitor is very short, but there's a clip bolting it to the chassis. I unbolted it and got another 2 feet out of it.
Also, if you order it, MAKE SURE you order a power connector as well! It DOESN'T come with one, and the power connector is on a different page of the Wells-Gardner site (where I ordered mine from for $300 US)
You'll also notice two versions of the 19" U3100:
WGM1931-M1GS08K
WGM1931-M2TS26H
The specs are the same, so I called to find out the difference. Here's what I was told:
"The 08K is a lower grade tube and board set, and is typically used in arcade machines. The 26H is a higher grade tube and board set, and is used mostly in information kiosks or wall-mount displays. Both have a detachable control board (note: board with contrast, bright, hsize, hoffset, vsize, and voffset controls, on a 2 foot cable), and both are on a horizontal mount (framed on bottom and triangular supports on sides. Does NOT have a rear brace, does NOT have a face / bezel mounting plate. Is bolted on using standard bolts and can easilly be modified though by my observations)."
When I say it looks more pixelated, there is a very distinct mask around the scan cells. With the monitor sitting normally (on it's flat base, horizontally) there are black lines between the columns that give the appearance of scanlines. There are also much thinner little horizontal lines in a staggered pattern (like brick work) between the columns. The end effect makes it look very much like an arcade monitor.
When I say there are no "true" scanlines, I say this because this is still a "high" resolution monitor, with a horizontal scanrate of 31khz. Old "real" monitors had a "low" resolution and a 15khz hoz scanrate. The low scanrate of the old monitors caused the "real" scanlines to appear.
I used Donkey Kong, because I distinctly remember the scanlines in the reddish girders on the first level. On my 19" KDS Avitron on my computer, they wern't there. I added them in using the software switch, and they looked reasonable, but not "exactly right".
When I started up the WG U3100 and stood it on it's side (be careful, it's front-heavy like this!), and told FMAME32 to turn the software scanlines off and rotate clockwise, and sync to monitor refresh rate, it looked perfect. Just like I remembered.
When I was starting up Donkey Kong, and later several other games, I was running Windows 2000, and set it to 640x480 at 60hz. The monitor runs Windows best like this. I tried at 75hz, but the screen was off center, and I couldn't adjust it enough to re-center it. I then set FMAME32 to always try to use 60hz. This worked well.
Spy Hunter gave me hell at first. I later found out I had to enable "sync to monitor refresh" and "wait for vsync" to even get a picture on the screen. Something tells me I'm going to have my keyboard plugged into my MAME cabinet for a while until I get most of the games I play set up correctly.
Lastly, I had the same problem as you... Do I pay $180 for another KDS 19" or about $330 for a WG U3100? I took the gamble on this reasoning:
#1: A PC monitor will look too clean and focused. The WG might be the same, because it is also a high (VGA / 31khz hoz scan) resolution monitor. But, I've heard rumors that it looks more authentic (they are true).
#2: A PC monitor will be hard to mount, and may overheat because of it's case. If I remove it from it's case, it'll be dangerous to work with unless I discharge it. The WG has no case, only a mounting frame. It's still dangerous, but less so, because the people who make PC monitors rely on the case to protect users. WG will most likely have more rubber / guards in place (which it does). The mounting frame of the WG will make it easy to mount in my cabinet, and the open design will dissipate heat.
#3: A PC monitor has a degauss button that can be used at will. The WG only auto-degausses on startup, and only after 30 minutes of rest. I can always get a manual degaussing wand for cheap from Happs. This doesn't matter if I use forethought as to which games I start up and I'm not rotating the thing every 5 minutes.
#4: I got the money for either of them.
Thus I took the gamble, got the WG and I'm very happy with it. This weekend, I buy the plywood for the actual cabinet. Already got a brand new Wico leaf switch joystick (another thing of beauty
)
Unfortunatly, I have no access to a camera right now. The camera at our company is currently on a road-trip with one of the engineers, and he gets back next week. When he does, I'll definatly be taking some pictures. Where to put them though, I don't know because I have no web space. I could email or ICQ them though.
If you need anything else, just say!