| Arcade Collecting > Miscellaneous Arcade Talk |
| Midway Arcade Cabinet by Big Electronic Games |
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| livingonwheels:
For anyone still following this topic, I had made up for me new light-up marquees for both my Konami and Midway cabs. Here's a couple pictures, believe it or not they are lit up in these photos'. They look absolutely gorgeous: https://postimg.cc/G4b7pQGs https://postimg.cc/K4LJrV5M |
| jbserra:
Those look great! Do you have the steps/artwork you took to create those? |
| livingonwheels:
--- Quote from: jbserra on September 12, 2023, 04:15:02 pm ---Those look great! Do you have the steps/artwork you took to create those? --- End quote --- Angel from "This Ability Upgrades" did these marquees for me. They came to around $70 each (which included the marquee, lightbar, hardware, and shipping). I had sent him my original Big Games marquees from my cabinets so he could make a perfect match. He has my files on record, so if you do decide to have him make them for you, you won't need to send your originals obviously. There are power strips inside these cabinets, so you'll plug them straight into the machine itself, which is great (the cabinets powers the marquees). One of the cabinets has it's power strip enclosed, so to make it easier for yourself, you can just use an outlet adapter (or small extension cord) to divide the single exposed outlet into two. If I remember correctly, I also drilled a small hole to run the marquee's light cords under the cabinet's marquee "base" in the rear of the cabinet. But I'm a perfectionist and you could just use a knife and cut a small upside down "V" on the base to run the cord. Also I preferred to make my own holes in the sides of the marquees during installation. The holes he made didn't line up as closely as I would have preferred. But it's just soft plastic so you can make those holes easily with anything, even a pointy Philipps screwdriver. Because the cabinets were not made with a lightbar in mind, I used black contact paper to block all areas where you will have "light bleed", but electrical tape would probably do just as well. I used the contact paper from the inside of the cabinet, not the outside (so it won't be noticeable). Once you turn off your room lights, and turn the cabinets on, you will see exactly where you need to apply the tape. It took me a few tries to get the correct position for the contact paper, for you need to be exact so you don't block any light from the marquee. It's around 20" from the rear of the cabinet to the marquee itself so you really have to reach. I placed the lightbar 4" from the marquee, on the top. If you decide to get this done, and you need help, just let me know and I'll post pictures of my installation, for I know some of what I'm trying to explain might sound confusing, but really it was quite easy. He prefers to communicate via text so I'll PM you his number. |
| daphillenium:
I WILL RESURRECT THIS THREAD.....lol. The warning on here is funny: "Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days. Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic." Aw heck no. We gotta keep this thing going! Okay, so yeah, I found one of these machines for $50 on marketplace a while back. Guy said one of the movements on joystick was spotty. My kids and I haven't had that issue. We did have one of the P1 Fire buttons (the jump on rampage) not working great, but i wiggled the wires underneath and got it going again. My 5 year old loves it. Well, I decided to start modding it. I bought A little HDMI to VGA adapter on amazon and tested it out the other day. I had a little NUC mini-PC i scrounged off amazon with some old bday gift cards for around $160. It's actually pretty decent. Using launchbox and emulators, I'm able to emulate up to PS2 so far with it. Well, we got that hooked up and tested it out. It works great. I've attached pictures. We tested out all kinds of games. TMNT, Tekken, gradius. I don't have controls hooked up yet. We just used xbox controllers to test out the audio/video and frontend stuff. Next step now is to get the controls working with the PC. I'm going to buy two little usb encoders for PC on amazon here soon and wire em up. However, the plan is to not lose original functionality of the cabinet. So, what I'm planning on doing, is cutting the wires from the controls to the board they attach to. Then, reconnect the wires but on the connection point, have it also connected to a new wire which I'll run to a spot on the USB encoder I'm going to buy. That way, when I'm switched over to the PC mode, the joysticks and buttons will work with my mini PC. But, if I ever want to discontinue the project or reclaim the PC for something else, the original cabinet and its board and everything will still work. I thought about copying some of your methods here and replacing the small tv. But honestly, it's not bad. TMNT and gradius and even tekken and soul calibur look fine on it. So, Ill keep the lil 13" incher in there. Anyway, here's to keeping this thing going! |
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