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| Gorrila Glue = No Bolts for joys |
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| kegger:
T-nuts used for mounting underneath CP |
| ErikRuud:
First off, I wouldn't use any method of permanently mounting any of my controls. Secondly Gorilla Glue is really formulated for porous materials and very tight tolerances. It loses a lot of it's strength with non-porous matrials or if there are gaps in the joint. With proper planning, you can have no visible mounting hardware, plenty of strength, and flexibility to change out the controls. Take a look at these two pictures. |
| Namco:
I love carriage bolts. Pac-Man had carriage bolts. Every Street Fighter I've ever seen had them. Centipede, Donkey Kong, and NeoGeos too. I rub them with my fingertip between rounds. I often try to get my fingernail underneath them to check for proper Sometimes I'd talk to them and ask them why they've turned brown. Oxidation or cigarette burns they would always tell me. I would notice that some were bigger than others and some were smoother than others. I use their helpful presence like braille to help find the buttons and stick. Our relationship has turned sour recently however. I took the ones that came to live with me in my Carrier Airwings cabinet, pulled them from their pre-drilled homes and subjected them each to 30 seconds in the drill against some sandpaper. It was for their own good and they look shiny and as good as new in their new Street Fighter 2 panel, but I feel their resentment with every downward glance. Anyway, in summary if you don't use visible carriage bolts on your control panel in the same way that it's been done in the arcade industry since Space Wars, then you're against the arcade industry... and you're a terrorist too no doubt. ;D |
| MaximRecoil:
I like carriage bolts too. They have a solid, industrial, no-nonsense look to them. When you see those 4 carriage bolts around a joystick, you know that joystick isn't going anywhere, no matter how aggressively you play the game. My Punch-Out control panel has 10 carriage bolts (not to mention 6 carriage bolts on each side of the machine for the monitor brackets) and I wouldn't have it any other way. I especially like the pair of carriage bolts below the big blue KO punch button. I always wondered what those were for when I was a kid. Now that I know their purpose I like them even more. |
| Mattiekrome:
--- Quote from: Mattiekrome on January 20, 2008, 02:27:50 pm --- I'm just thinking though... I will have a a 5/8" MDF CP with a 1/8" sheet of Lexan on top. If I recess the bottom of the CP by 1/4" then countersink the bolt holes y 1/4" on top, isnt that going to mean there is only 1/4" MDF actually holding on to these sticks? Since so many people use this method, I would assume its still quite strong, but sort of makes me cringe... After reading some other threads I'm now thinking of doing a 1/4"recess on the bottom with some T-nuts flush mounted on top. --- End quote --- Finally tracked down some Tee Nuts at Lowes tonight and noticed that they all came in 1/2" deep sizes. Along the same lines as the above query... If you have a 5/8" MDF CP, recess the sticks on the bottom by 1/4", then use these 1/2" Tee Nuts on top to flush mount on top of the CP, there will literally be no MDF inbetween the stick base and the thread of the tee nut... is this how others have done it? (or did you use 1/4" tee nuts?) And I also found some of the threaded inserts that I saw RandyT mention in a diff. thread, those were all 1/2" deep as well. So, I guess its the same application for those? :dizzy: So many Q's |
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