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Gorrila Glue = No Bolts for joys
acevedor2:
Thanks to all the for all of the advice. A couple of notes and comments:
The reason I was considering using Gorilla Glue was so that there would not be any tapering or countersinking bolt holes. Additionally, the chances of my CPO not sticking due Yes, I do realize that to some it is not that big of a deal. I, however, am brand new at the woodworking thing so anything that prevents me from screwing up the better. :) I, as a novice at this, was just looking for other options. This board has so many experts that have been doing this for years that I really do value everyone's opinion.
The other comment I find kind of ironic is that many people have said that the "professionals" would never permanently mount a joystick. What I find ironic about that is that those same people have no problem with countersinking bolt holes and putting a CPO and plexi over them. Some have even used wood filler over the joys to ensure they are flush. I will give you that it is not absolutely mounted forever in that case, but I would argue that it is probably as much effort to scribe out the sides of the joy that are glued in to loosen and get it out in what I was suggesting, than it would be to remove the buttons so you could remove the lexan so that you could remove/ruin the CPO, so you could remove the carriage bolts, so you could replace the joy in the other widely acceptable method. Seems pretty darned "permanent" to me in either case - glued or bolted flush.
I am really now leaning towards Dowdy and leaving my bolt holes exposed - for a variety of reasons:
1. Almost every arcade I have ever visited has bolt heads showing.
2. I have a 7 year old who has friends that will be playing this cab and the need to replace joys will likely arise.
3. It simplifies a number of things for installation including the fact that it would take care of the Lexan staying down issue.
I wanted to say thanks again for all of the thoughts and advice. It really is invaluable information. Cheers :cheers:
Hoopz:
My suggestion is to try it on a scrap piece of wood and see if you can drill four holes, mount a joy, and then remove it without stopping the head of the screw/bolt from moving.
I have never had to take any of my CPOs off but I have removed and replaced joys. It's really not hard at all to do.
And countersinking the screws/bolts isn't hard either. Its an extra bit to buy that isn't expensive and you can practice for about 3 minutes and be an expert! If I can, so can you! ;)
Regarding the lexan staying down, I have had a couple of CPs with lexan and one without. Even with having three young children beating the crap out of them, I much prefer the style without. Regardless, for the ones I had with lexan, my buttons held down the lexan without any other bolts. I never had the kids trying to lift the lexan up or any movement whatsoever. YMMV.
patrickl:
--- Quote from: acevedor2 on January 07, 2007, 05:46:14 pm ---The other comment I find kind of ironic is that many people have said that the "professionals" would never permanently mount a joystick. What I find ironic about that is that those same people have no problem with countersinking bolt holes and putting a CPO and plexi over them. Some have even used wood filler over the joys to ensure they are flush. I will give you that it is not absolutely mounted forever in that case, but I would argue that it is probably as much effort to scribe out the sides of the joy that are glued in to loosen and get it out in what I was suggesting, than it would be to remove the buttons so you could remove the lexan so that you could remove/ruin the CPO, so you could remove the carriage bolts, so you could replace the joy in the other widely acceptable method. Seems pretty darned "permanent" to me in either case - glued or bolted flush.
--- End quote ---
People using wood filler would probably be using t-nuts. These are mounted on the top, countersunk and woodfilled and all. You then screw the bolts for the sticks in from underneath. Replacable and no screws visible.
Ken Layton:
--- Quote from: acevedor2 on January 07, 2007, 05:46:14 pm ---Thanks to all the for all of the advice. A couple of notes and comments:
The other comment I find kind of ironic is that many people have said that the "professionals" would never permanently mount a joystick. What I find ironic about that is that those same people have no problem with countersinking bolt holes and putting a CPO and plexi over them. Some have even used wood filler over the joys to ensure they are flush. I will give you that it is not absolutely mounted forever in that case, but I would argue that it is probably as much effort to scribe out the sides of the joy that are glued in to loosen and get it out in what I was suggesting, than it would be to remove the buttons so you could remove the lexan so that you could remove/ruin the CPO, so you could remove the carriage bolts, so you could replace the joy in the other widely acceptable method. Seems pretty darned "permanent" to me in either case - glued or bolted flush.
--- End quote ---
I have literally built hundreds of control panels (metal and wood) over the years and I only use carriage bolts through the panel. Never would I even consider the other methods you mention. I have seem some 'professionals' that do that crap and their panels end up looking like ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.
acevedor2:
Great discussion here and I think I am convinced. Although I know I will probably catch crap for this, I actually think that I am going to do it with bolts showing down through the top of the Lexan. It is not as smooth and seemless but I think it will ultimately be easier and provide more flexibility or me with respect to joy repair/replacement down the road.
I think that after I have built a few of these, I will feel more confident using othr methods. Cheers.