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| Printing ON laminate..is it even possible ! ? |
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| OSCAR:
It looks like on the HotRod the edges are tucked down behind the t-molding to prevent this from happening. Good warning, though. |
| SNAAAKE:
--- Quote from: RandyT on March 31, 2003, 02:42:50 am --- --- Quote from: OSCAR on March 30, 2003, 06:45:21 pm ---I'm pretty sure that the HotRod and X-Arcade reverse print their control panel graphics on textured lexan film and then it is stuck down with some industrial 3M adhesive. I believe the lexan has a matte/velvet finish. Professional print shops can do this and may even stock the lexan film. --- End quote --- A word of caution about this: I used this material on my CP and it was incredible.....The key word here is "was" :( This material is reverse-print, which means that you apply the glue to the surface you printed on. The thing that makes that surface ink receptive is a coating that is applied to the polycarbonate. Once this coating is bonded to a surface with contact cement, the adhesion between the surface and the coating is stronger than the bond between the coating and the polycarbonate. This means that if you snag an edge, even slightly, this material likes to de-laminate like crazy. You can literally peel the polycarbonate material away cleanly, leaving the printed graphics (the coating layer) and glue stuck to the panel (how cleanly it comes away depend on the uniformity of the adhesive layer.) Needless to say, this is a "bad thing" :) If you can adequately protect the edges, you might be okay. Otherwise, I don't recommend it. RandyT --- End quote --- Thanks..yes MY idea was like something like this too..i was gonna use 5/8 wood and 1/8 lexan print and 3/4 molding so things would be "OKAY" except still no dice :(. The arcadeshopper guy never replied about this so I am assuming he is not interested..anyway thanks for the warning RandyT. :) |
| tom61:
--- Quote from: SNAAAKE on March 30, 2003, 03:51:45 am --- --- Quote from: tom61 on March 29, 2003, 04:48:35 pm ---I've never heard of printer that can print directly to laminate, but you can silk screen onto anything. Silk screening is a process where you separate the image into colors, and then create a layer of material (sorta looks like clay) in which the negative of that color's image is 'burned ' on a silk screen (sorta like a screen door, but much smaller holes), then the screen is put on top the item, then paint is scraped across it, the paint only goes through the open holes. You repeat for every color. This quite cheap if you do alot of it (like X-arcade), but the setup fees are quite high (since they'd have to make negatives, then burn the screens), so not cheap for a single person's design. You might want to talk to a local printing place (a real one, not Kinkos) and see what they can do for you. --- End quote --- All that? :(..neh.its not gonna happen :(. Tom61:Know anything about how the companies do it? Like you know..when I buy a Blitz cabinet,I have side art which is printed in some weird material that like sticks to sides forever and wont scratch unless you try to scratch on purpose. Get the picture? Anyone else know anything about this? I know it will be impossible for just someone like me(only 1 cabinet) but what are those material that they use ???. --- End quote --- They use Adhesive Vinyl, then the image is silk-screened onto it (some newer pro-quality printers can print on it though). It'll be expensive to get just one made (probably $150+ per side). If you're really serious about getting this, have it done professionally, go down to a local print shop (look in the yellow pages for Printers). They'll work with you to tweak the image and printout to what you want, unlike Kinko's where you get whatever comes out of their machines. Of course you pay a premium for this, but the result is usually much better. BTW, I've taken classes in graphics arts, that's how I know how most of this works. |
| Vesper:
I did my CPO (and Marquee) with reverse-printing on polycarbonate. The CPO was on a slightly textured surface, and they applied 3M double sided adhesive to the back. I had this done at a local sign shop, and it was rather expensive. (About $170 for the two pieces, including the adhesive.) Here's some images of mine. I am still in awe of how nice it turned out. I have had no problems with it peeling back. My CPO was made with 3/4" plywood. The thickness of the polycarbonate is so thin that it doesn't matter as far as adjusting for matching up with tmolding, etc. Images: http://home.wi.rr.com/dg64738/mame1.jpg http://home.wi.rr.com/dg64738/mame2.jpg http://home.wi.rr.com/dg64738/mame3.jpg http://home.wi.rr.com/dg64738/mame4.jpg http://home.wi.rr.com/dg64738/mame5.jpg - Mike |
| AX:
Is that an Orange trackball? Cuz if it is I want one. lol |
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