New Product: TurboTwist 2 - The Ultimate Spinner / Paddle control ! From GGG!

[RandyT]

       

                 

Whew!  Is that enough pictures?  Click on them if you want more detail.

GroovyGameGear was the first to bring you a high-resolution Arcade Spinner Control with the original TurboTwist™. 

Now, we bring you the TurboTwist 2™, the most amazing Arcade spinner ever produced, bar none. 

We packed the highest-resolution of any Arcade spinner into the smallest and easiest-to-install package ever!  It's also the most economical!

Features:

• Installs in your panel just like a standard arcade pushbutton!  Fits panels as thin as sheet metal and up to over 3/4" thick.  No more screws or mounting templates.
• 1200 transitions per revolution provides full coverage for any spinner or paddle game, including those demanding Arkanoid-style games.  And it does it  without gears!
• Can be used with or without an optional rotational energy storage cylinder.  Gives you a choice of low "moment of inertia" or prolonged spin!
• Full DUAL sealed-ball bearing design provides for maximum shaft stability.
• TurboTwist 2 spinner body is precision CNC machined from a single piece of aircraft quality aluminum.
• Top surface mounted so height-adjustments are a thing of the past!
• Fully enclosed optical module protects high-tech components from dust and mishaps.
• Standard 1/4" stainless-steel shaft for the widest possible selection of spinner knobs.
• Special Opti-Wiz based board (Included in the "Master" configuration) can operate up to 2 additional lower cost "Slave" TurboTwist 2 spinners.
• X, Y or Z axis operation can be selected by simply plugging the data cable onto the desired axis connector.
• 4-pin header on-board (not shown in photo) for Left, Right and Middle Mouse Button connections.
• Stylish 1-1/4" diameter black spinner knob included at no additional charge!
• Also suitable for any application requiring precision dial controls, such as a Scrub Control for digital media editors, CNC Machine Jog Control (MPG), Rotational measurement, etc.
• USB or PS/2 Port.  No additional drivers required.
• Proudly crafted in the USA.

TurboTwist 2 Master Configuration - $69.95

Includes:
   TurboTwist 2 Spinner Control
   Opti-Wiz Interface (Specal Version)
   Stylish Black Spinner Knob
   12" Data / Power Cable
   6' USB Cable
   Instruction Sheet


TurboTwist 2 Slave Configuration - $62.95

Includes:
   TurboTwist 2 Spinner Control
   Stylish Black Spinner Knob
   12" Data / Power Cable
   Instruction Sheet
   

Add $5.95 for Energy Storage Cylinder Option (recommended for operation as a Spinner control when used with a light-weight knob)
Add $29.95 for Mini-Racer™ Option.
Pricing for Spinner knob options will be available at the store.

First units will be available for order at the store later today (11/27/06)

Thank you for looking and for your past patronage.  It's what allows us to continue to bring you new and innovative products like this one. 

RandyT

[FunWithFire]

That looks real nice. This hobby is going to kill me.

[leapinlew]

Wow! How cool is this! Awesome.

[RetroBorg]

Great work Randy! 

[JustMichael]

I guess I'll say it before someone else does...

Does it come with a push/pull option?

[patrickl]

Love the tiny steering wheels, but is that steering wheel going to hold up if you only secure the whole unit with one "button style" screw?

[destructor]

Love the tiny steering wheels, but is that steering wheel going to hold up if you only secure the whole unit with one "button style" screw?

Especially when panel has 45 degrees for example.

What is inner and outer diameter this steering wheel?

How heavy wheel I can mount instead mini steering wheel? (If I install larger steering wheel from PC controllers for example).

[Havok]

Wow! All other spinners now suck in comparison!

 

[GadgetGeek]

Curse you Randy T.  Now I have to decide, toys for me or toys for the kids for Christmas.
 

Congrats on another great product.   

Must. Resist. Temptataion. (at least until after the holidays)

[Havok]

So when are you coming out with the GGG credit card?

 

[squirrellydw]

I will be ordering one of these.  I don't need to order anything special to have it work with your EI trackball correct?  Both are USB so should be plug and play.

[Xiaou2]

 Heh,  too bad I didnt patent that way back when...

 

 


  Good to see a smarter use of spinner mounting finally.
Took ya long enough      hehe

 Nice design.

 

[Ninten-doh]

So when are you coming out with the GGG credit card?
 

More importantly, when are the new joysticks coming out?  My wife keeps asking what I want for X-mas and I keep stalling.   

Neat looking spinner and accessories.  Will the mini-wheel option work with the original TurboTwist?

[shardian]

After thinking long and hard about it, I have decided to humbly accept the responsibility of being an unbiased tester of this spinner. Go ahead and send me my demo. It pains me to subject myself to this torture, but I consider it a service to the community that has given me so much.


 

[TOK]

Heh,  too bad I didnt patent that way back when...

Your design looks like it was compact up top, but pretty large underneath. That makes the GGG appear completely different to me. Very slick design.

I've just been using a trackball for the spinner games I play, I think this will finally make me get a spinner.

[Grasshopper]

This product looks potentially awesome when used as a standard spinner, and the decision to make the mounting hole the same size as a pushbutton hole is inspired. It's nice to have one less drill bit size to worry about.

However, as others have already mentioned, I'm slightly sceptical about the long term durability of the steering wheel attachment, especially when you consider that the nut used to fasten the spinner mechanism to the control panel appears from the pictures to be made of nylon. Anyway, I guess time will tell. I really hope it's durable as we badly need more steering wheel options.

[whammoed]

Wow.  Love the idea.  If it plays as well as it looks I will be a happy camper indeed.  Talk a bout a small footprint...
Randy, since you state it has 1200 transitions per revolution, I assume that you are now using a 300 cpr encoder?  Is that right?
If so I think thats probably an optimum setting.  I found the 500 cpr one I tried was great for Arkanoid but was a tad "iffy" when trying to adjust it down for tempest.  Just need a way to adjust the resistance on the fly now...

KUDOS!

[RandyT]

Heh,  too bad I didnt patent that way back when...

Heh, It wouldn't have mattered if you did.  You can't patent a concept, only an implementation.  These two are radically different in that respect.

But thanks for the compliment on the design.

More importantly, when are the new joysticks coming out?  My wife keeps asking what I want for X-mas and I keep stalling.   

Another recent addition to the store was Gift Certificates.  If you want something from GroovyGameGear.com, send the potential goody purchaser to the site and they can get you some groovy spendin' dough.  I think the picture is pretty humorous too (really shouldn't have spent the time on it...)

The new joysticks are indeed coming.  I'm waiting for 1 part from one of the new machinists.  I expect it will be done shortly, hopefully well before Christmas.

Neat looking spinner and accessories.  Will the mini-wheel option work with the original TurboTwist?

Thanks!  It may.  If not, I can make a special version for TT1 owners.  I wasn't sure how well the small wheel was going to work.  Turns out that its a blast
 

I will be ordering one of these.  I don't need to order anything special to have it work with your EI trackball correct?  Both are USB so should be plug and play.

That's correct.  Just plug it in and go, as you would a mouse or any other USB HID device.

Love the tiny steering wheels, but is that steering wheel going to hold up if you only secure the whole unit with one "button style" screw?

The Mini-Racer™ wheel is not intended for commercial deployment.  It is made of plastic and steel, and has a very high quality and "heavy" feel.  So much so that it has no need for set screws or permanent mounting devices.  It's designed to be able to be slipped onto the shaft easily and used when desired and slip off the same way when it's not.

As for the mounting, don't let your kids hang from it.  It's not built for that.  It's built for you to enjoy driving games and give you that "arcade feel" without the need for a large wheel on a special control.  It does that admirably, IMHO and will hold up just fine when not subjected to heavy abuse.

It's also really fun and it actually fit on my tiny Defender cab's CP   Turbo, PolePosition, Supersprint, you name it.  All of them felt really good and could be played well for the first time on my cab.  And when I was done, I popped it off and put the spinner knob back.  No problems.

Wow.  Love the idea.  If it plays as well as it looks I will be a happy camper indeed.  Talk a bout a small footprint...
Randy, since you state it has 1200 transitions per revolution, I assume that you are now using a 300 cpr encoder?  Is that right?
If so I think thats probably an optimum setting.  I found the 500 cpr one I tried was great for Arkanoid but was a tad "iffy" when trying to adjust it down for tempest.  Just need a way to adjust the resistance on the fly now...

KUDOS!

Thanks, and you are correct.  It's funny you should mention Tempest.  One of the great things about 1200 transitions is the 72 you get at exactly 6% of it.  Arcade perfect Tempest control settings

Resistance isn't a big issue.  The Arkanoid fans will want a larger knob and skip the flywheel option (or remove it when you want to have a few games).  Very, very playable.  (Hey Kremmit!  How about that knob measurement from the original?  Heh)

RandyT

[ahofle]

This is simply awesome.  Congrats.

[whammoed]

Randy, what is the total depth of the spinner with and without the shaft weight?

[RandyT]

Randy, what is the total depth of the spinner with and without the shaft weight?

From where to where?  Keep in mind that the way this is designed, much of the body is buried in your CP!  So the amount that hangs below will vary based on CP thickness. 

RandyT

[postalp123]

Another question Randy:

Can the Mini-Racer be installed on..... say, a SlikStik Tornado Spinner Base?

+ = ?

I'd rather not have the $90 I paid for the Tornado go to waste, But that steering wheel is awesome!

[AlanS17]

Well crap... I thought I was going to save some money by not adding a spinner to my newest machine. That idea is probably out the window now. Thanks alot, Randy. 

I'll put those gift certificates on my Christmas wish list. I'll let that be the determining factor as to whether I get the spinner or not. I really like the idea of a simple driving control, though. That the one thing missing from my old cab.

[whammoed]

Randy, what is the total depth of the spinner with and without the shaft weight?

From where to where?  Keep in mind that the way this is designed, much of the body is buried in your CP!  So the amount that hangs below will vary based on CP thickness. 

RandyT

From the underside of the lip down.  Will potentially go in metal cocktail panel(s) where depth is a concern.  In this case the cp thickness is only 1/16".

[AlanS17]

I can't tell from any of the pictures if it's there or not, but some sort of texture on the under side of the top mounting surface to keep it from rotating would be a major plus. It would add some grip. For all I know, though, it's already there.

[AlanS17]

I imagine anyone wanting to use this thing for driving games will also want that little fixture at the bototm of the spinner to add inertia and give it that heavier feel.

What's the diameter of that wheel?

[Aurich]

Nicely done. The button-hole style mount is a great idea, though unfortunately it wouldn't work for me, as it's much more difficult to add to an already finished panel (with overlay on) than a smaller drill hole. If I was starting from scratch though it's certainly attractive. I have 30mm holes (Japanese buttons), but the ability to swap it into an existing hole is cool too if you're in a tighter space and using Happs or the like.

[Xam]

Randy...you suck...LOL! How can we keep up when you keep putting out great products? Looks Like I may have found the spinner for my driving game cab!

Xam

[RandyT]

Can the Mini-Racer be installed on a..... say, SlikStik Tornado Spinner Base?
I'd rather not the $90 I paid for the Tornado go to waste, But that steering wheel is awesome

Based on  the heft of the wheel and the type of forces that can be applied with it, It's probably not appropriate to use it with anything other than the TurboTwist 2 spinner.

From the underside of the lip down.  Will potentially go in metal cocktail panel(s) where depth is a concern.  In this case the cp thickness is only 1/16".

Without the ESC (flywheel) and including the extension of the shaft, it is about 2.45" from under the lip.  With the ESC, it is very close to 3".

For those with 3/4" wood panels, this translates to 1.7" below without the ESC and 2.25" below with.

I can't tell from any of the pictures if it's there or not, but some sort of texture on the under side of the top mounting surface to keep it from rotating would be a major plus. It would add some grip. For all I know, though, it's already there.

It's not there, but it's not necessary at all.  You will never have rotational force on the base.  The shaft spins freely in two individual sealed bearing units.

I imagine anyone wanting to use this thing for driving games will also want that little fixture at the bottom of the spinner to add inertia and give it that heavier feel.

Not at all.  The wheel has it's own mass and physical dynamic.  So much so that the ESC is not even detectable when present with the wheel (and it spins like a bugger when you give it a good whip)

What's the diameter of that wheel?

Roughly 5"

Nicely done. The button-hole style mount is a great idea, though unfortunately it wouldn't work for me, as it's much more difficult to add to an already finished panel (with overlay on) than a smaller drill hole. If I was starting from scratch though it's certainly attractive. I have 30mm holes (Japanese buttons), but the ability to swap it into an existing hole is cool too if you're in a tighter space and using Happs or the like.

A 1.125" hole saw (not a boring bit) will do wonders .  The spinner has it's own bezel, just like a button, so any rough edges will be hidden nicely.  It's usually more difficult to find space on a completed panel than to cut a button hole in in.

Also, the bezel is large enough to accommodate a 30mm hole, but it will be a little sloppy.  If you tighten it down well, or with a wood CP, apply a few layers of electrical tape just under the bezel, it will fit like a glove

Randy...you suck...LOL! How can we keep up when you keep putting out great products? Looks Like I may have found the spinner for my driving game cab!

People either hate me or they hate me.  I just can't win

RandyT

[FrizzleFried]

...does this mean the price of the original Turbo Twist is going to come down significantly?

[RandyT]

...does this mean the price of the original Turbo Twist is going to come down significantly?

It will no longer be produced.

RandyT

[AlanS17]

...does this mean the price of the original Turbo Twist is going to come down significantly?

It will no longer be produced.

RandyT

If you decide to have a clearance sale, be sure to let me know.

[RetroACTIVE]

Randy,

Props for that packaging dude I'm glad I waited...

[screaming]

I guess I'll say it before someone else does...

Does it come with a push/pull option?

  Seconded.  It seems that with the completely encased design that modifying it will be difficult, if at all.

 

[Kremmit]

These look awfully nice, good job on the button-hole mounting setup.  Stellar idea!

(Hey Kremmit!  How about that knob measurement from the original?  Heh)

RandyT

Oops, sorry, forgot about that.  Been really busy lately, blah blah blah.  I don't have any calipers handy, but my super-scientific eyeball and tape measure says it's one and 9/16 inches; or 40mm.

[RandyT]

Oops, sorry, forgot about that.  Been really busy lately, blah blah blah.  I don't have any calipers handy, but my super-scientific eyeball and tape measure says it's one and 9/16 inches; or 40mm.

Cool.  Close enough and thanks for the info!

"Big Blue" is 3/16" larger in diameter than the original, but does seem to have a nice feel.  The cool thing about having more res than the original is that you can tweak a larger knob to approximate the feel of original.

Thanks Kremmit.

RandyT

[AlanS17]

I guess I'll say it before someone else does...

Does it come with a push/pull option?

  Seconded.  It seems that with the completely encased design that modifying it will be difficult, if at all.

 

... and less prone to breaking. I think it's a worthwhile trade-off.

[CheffoJeffo]

Definitely the coolest product I have seen in a while and definitely my next spinner, unless RandyT comes up with his 3rd generation spinner by the time I get around to it. 

Cheers.

[quarterback]

Suhwheeet! 

[whammoed]

Without the ESC (flywheel) and including the extension of the shaft, it is about 2.45" from under the lip.  With the ESC, it is very close to 3".

For those with 3/4" wood panels, this translates to 1.7" below without the ESC and 2.25" below with.

Great, will fit fine in a pac man style cocktail panel.

[CheffoJeffo]

Great, will fit fine in a pac man style cocktail panel.

Yeah, the size is great ... bartop driver, anyone ?

Cheers.

[squirrellydw]

Still not on the website, grrrrrr

[AlanS17]

A bartop racing cabinet... anyone up for some drinking and driving???

[PoDunkMoFo]

Randy,

Will it work with the Optiwiz I just bought?  If so what would be the pricing fo just the spinner?  If not will you credit the value of the one I have in exchange (unused)?

Thanks

[Fozzy The Bear]

Sweet!!!!!! 

Randy you're a star!!!

I'll be ordering one of these as soon as my other half lets me loose with the credit cards  .... the finished item is absolutely awesome. The only thing I can say is damn you for releasing it right before the Christmas season  ARGHHHHHH!! Now I just have to figure out how the heck I can afford it at this time of the year.

That resolution simply blows everything else out of the water.  for spinner games "Revenge Of Doh included!!"

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[squirrellydw]

I assume you can hook up more than one with out a problem right?  Lets go racing.

I answered my own question after I saw it on your site.  Yes you can.

[torez]

It looks to be a great spinner.  Congrats Randy!  It is on my to get list.  Think this dimple knob should be great for Tempest, as I like using my index finger on top of the knob to spin it.

One question, what is the difference between Opti-Wiz Interface (Special Version) and the original Opti-Wiz?

[RayB]

Hey this is awesome. But the default knob looks too small. (Same diameter as a pushbutton??)  And is the price really the best you can offer? I wonder if you might not sell 10x more at slightly less. (Sorry, raining on the parade here).

I look forward to a price drop. I'll definitely buy one when it hits the $40 range.
 

[RandyT]

Hey this is awesome. But the default knob looks too small. (Same diameter as a pushbutton??)

If I am not mistaken, the original Tempest knob (sans skirt) was 1-1/4"  in diameter.  That is also the diameter of the default knob.  The height is very close as well.

And is the price really the best you can offer? I wonder if you might not sell 10x more at slightly less. (Sorry, raining on the parade here).
I look forward to a price drop. I'll definitely buy one when it hits the $40 range.
 

Heh, sorry, but yes.  I have about $1000 invested just to make that special cable that goes between the board and the unit.  Precision gear costs money and this unit is about as high-tech as it gets.. 

I would lose money on every sale at $40 each, so I think you might want to check out other options if that's your ceiling

RandyT

[Fozzy The Bear]

Order Placed!! I simply had to have one.... So my other half decided to buy it for me for Christmas 

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[Bluedeath]

Can thist thing be connected to a real arcadeboard?
In this case i would buy one slave unit

[Fozzy The Bear]

Randy,
             What is the actual diameter of the recessed top in the big blue button please?? I'm designing some graphics to go in there and it would make it easier to do the test prints of them if I know the exact size they need to be.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[vrf]

Cool product! (Why you no ship to Asia?  )

You recommend the ESC for "lightweight" spinner knobs. Which of the knobs there would you consider lightweight?

Or do you just recommend the flywheel for all knobs?

Thanks!

[csa3d]

So when can we see LED lighting up the shaft of this bad boy?   

This is great for those of us who are planning tight configurations.  My only critique so far is that I still feel SlikStik has prettier knobs.  Awesome contribution though!  I'm sure I'll be picking one up shortly!

-csa

[squirrellydw]

order placed, also will the tops from Apache controls work with this one like it would on the original TT?  Any idea if they would be heavy enough to use without the ESC?

[FrizzleFried]

I too just ordered.   I do wish,  however,  you offered the different knobs INCLUDING the original instead of just as an UPGRADE FROM the original.  Had you offered,  for example, big blue for $5.00 for a Big Blue PLUS the original knob I'd have bit,  but I want the original knob as well as an upgraded one so I stuck with just the original...I'll buy a knob later once I try this one out.

I am REALLY looking forward to this....time to bust out the hole saw again.

[Fozzy The Bear]

I am REALLY looking forward to this....time to bust out the hole saw again.

Yeah! me too..... Yup! Time to bust out the hole saw.... I just finished my new panel as well, now I have to cut a new hole because this one won't fit in the hole I left for the former type of spinner    Fortunately I think I can get a router bit into that hole and cut through the plexi and the wood and the artwork all at the same time 

As for Randy... We are truly not worthy  of all these great toys  
Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[ahofle]

Fortunately I think I can get a router bit into that hole and cut through the plexi and the wood and the artwork all at the same time 

If your luck is anywhere near as bad as mine, you will end up with a bunch of saw dust inconveniently nestled in between the artwork and plexi doing it that way LOL.   

[RandyT]

I too just ordered.   I do wish,  however,  you offered the different knobs INCLUDING the original instead of just as an UPGRADE FROM the original.  Had you offered,  for example, big blue for $5.00 for a Big Blue PLUS the original knob I'd have bit,  but I want the original knob as well as an upgraded one so I stuck with just the original...I'll buy a knob later once I try this one out.

I'll consider how to address this for those wanting multiple knobs.  In the meantime, if anyone has a special request like this one, email me and we can arrange something.

The first orders will ship in the morning, so I can add "Big Blue" to yours manually if you would like.

Thanks,
RandyT

[Chunce DeLeone]

RandyT or anyone else that can answer,
If I order the slave unit to save 8 bucks can I hook it directly up to my Optipak?  Also is the TT2 an Active Hi or Active Low device?

And how easy is it to swap the steering unit with the regular knob?, I can't really tell from the pictures how the wheel connects to it.  Would I have to use an allen key, and really just end up getting another TT2 dedicated to the steering wheel?

Anyway sick product, very interested.......

[FrizzleFried]

Where is GGG?   Where will the spinners be shipped from?   I can't seem to find that info on the website.

Thanks!

[edge]

Where is GGG?   Where will the spinners be shipped from?   I can't seem to find that info on the website.

He is located in Ithaca, NY.  It's on the top of the "Contact Us" link.

[FrizzleFried]

I must be getting blind in my old age...(almost 35).   I actually LOOKED for it before I posted too...and ON THAT PAGE!

 

[u_rebelscum]

You recommend the ESC for "lightweight" spinner knobs. Which of the knobs there would you consider lightweight?

I'm interested in more info on the knobs, too.  Basics like size and weight.  Maybe side and 45 degree views of those two rubbers to show how round the non-rubber hump is, and comparative views of the others? 

I'd also like to know how much effect the ESC has on the different knobs, which knobs 'need' the ESC, which the ESC can't be detected, etc,  but this stuff might belong in a review.

If the "black dimple" is the same as the one already out there (IOW, basically the same as the one I already have), I'm going to look at getting either the "big blue" or the "black rubber" knob, depending on size & weight.  (Note that I like my dimple, but I like having options.)

[FrizzleFried]

I know the cost to produce the steering probably justifies the price tag,  but for me,  and additional $30 for what equates to a large "knob" is a little too much for me to stomache.   If there was a way to get it dow to the $19.95 price-point,  i'd have likely ordered it along with the rest.

I am also VERY curious as to the duribility of the unit when attached to the steering wheel...wheels tend to get pulled and pushed,  bumped, etc a lot...will the spinner hold up?

[rackoon]

Im sure this is a dumb question but that never stopped me before.

CAN I HOOK MY HAPPS TRACKBALL TO IT?

[RayB]

If I am not mistaken, the original Tempest knob (sans skirt) was 1-1/4"  in diameter.  That is also the diameter of the default knob.  The height is very close as well.

May be true, but the "skirt" is there for the fingers to rest on.

Heh, sorry, but yes.  I have about $1000 invested just to make that special cable that goes between the board and the unit.  Precision gear costs money and this unit is about as high-tech as it gets.. 

I would lose money on every sale at $40 each, so I think you might want to check out other options if that's your ceiling

I understand completely, and expected as much for the reason. I just had to say it     (How many are left?)

[RandyT]

I know the cost to produce the steering probably justifies the price tag,  but for me,  and additional $30 for what equates to a large "knob" is a little too much for me to stomache.   If there was a way to get it dow to the $19.95 price-point,  i'd have likely ordered it along with the rest.

I am also VERY curious as to the duribility of the unit when attached to the steering wheel...wheels tend to get pulled and pushed,  bumped, etc a lot...will the spinner hold up?

Please refer to where I stated that the wheel is not suitable for commercial environments, or where it might be subjected to abuse outside of normal use.  Those who have purchased the wheel will understand immediately why it has the price tag it does.  They are not little plastic toys.  I wish I could get them cheaper, but I cannot and there are a number of things I must do to them to allow them to be used with the TurboTwist 2. 

I have looked far and wide for "cheap" steering wheels and this is what I could do.  The alternative would have been nothing, so I'm taking the chance that some may want one at the price necessary for me to do it.  A few have opted for it, so they will likely be reporting on it soon.

BTW, if the steering wheel is pulled, it will come off.  It's designed that way.  If it's pushed (I'm not sure why anyone would be doing these things, but..) it will be fine.  It's small, so you can't get the same kind of leverage you might be thinking of with full-sized wheels, and if you break something with it, I think that would have to be your initial goal.

I will be getting some more info out there on the knobs.  Big Blue is 1.75" in diameter by .820" tall and is a hefty, but not heavy knob.  All of the pictures showing them are at the same scale as each other.  The stock knob is 1.25", so you can use that as a reference.

All of the knobs offered are considered lightweight and would be best used with the ESC for spinner-type action.  Those who primarily play the paddle and analog dial type games, and most definitely those more interested in the steering wheel (which weighs over a half-pound,) can probably skip that option.

The band on the "rubber" knobs goes very nearly flush to the top.  The dome is very subtle.  I think they look good, feel good and perform well.  No "bling" awards, but it's only a couple dollar option.

CAN I HOOK MY HAPPS TRACKBALL TO IT?

Yes, but you will need to add a couple of pull-down resistors and you'd be limited to the Z-Axis unless you use a switch to share the X or Y axis.

May be true, but the "skirt" is there for the fingers to rest on.

How do you rest your fingers on something that is spinning?   (J/K) .

(How many are left?)

More than will be in a few days if the first version's sales were any indicator.  We'll try to make sure we don't keep running out of these like we did with the first version.

RandyT

[whammoed]

Yes, but you will need to add a couple of pull-down resistors and you'd be limited to the Z-Axis unless you use a switch to share the X or Y axis.

Pull down resistors?  So the optiwiz used on the spinner is different than the regular optiwiz in some way?  Did you have to modify things a bit to get the encoder to function properly?

[leapinlew]

I love this product Randy... I'm a little worried about the steering wheel attention your getting. I think people are getting the impression they will build some sort of driving cabinet with these things. It's a great add-on and there is obviously a market for something like this. It's clear to me that the steering wheel exists to help complete the arcade experience, but it seems like some of these people are wanting to hang from them.

I look forward to trying one of these out!

[Cornchip]

Think I'll stick with my original Turbo Twist. I did a slick Button Blaster LED  mod to the spinner. Looks amazing (hard to capture well in a digital picture for some reason?). Wish I had the simplified 1.125 mounting...that's a real head scratch-er why nobody else thought of it first.

 Cornchip.

[squirrellydw]

order placed, also will the tops from Apache controls work with this one like it would on the original TT?  Any idea if they would be heavy enough to use without the ESC?

Will these work Randy??  If you don't think they are heavy enough any chance you could add the ESC to my order?  Let me know and I will pay for it tonight or tomorrow.

[RandyT]

Think I'll stick with my original Turbo Twist. I did a slick Button Blaster LED  mod to the spinner. Looks amazing (hard to capture well in a digital picture for some reason?).

I love it!  Awesome job!  I had a little different method in mind when I was contemplating this, but it looks like you have it working quite well indeed.   

order placed, also will the tops from Apache controls work with this one like it would on the original TT?  Any idea if they would be heavy enough to use without the ESC?

Will these work Randy??  If you don't think they are heavy enough any chance you could add the ESC to my order?  Let me know and I will pay for it tonight or tomorrow.

They should fit, but I don't think they will have the weight required.  I will add the ESC to your order, and if you think you can live without it after you test it, you can return it.

RandyT

[vrf]

Randy,

Seems you're replying to this thread more than email messages... 

Anyhow, would you consider shipping to Taiwan? You have the Phillipines on there, so there wouldn't seem to be a good reason for not doing so.

Thanks!

[squirrellydw]

Think I'll stick with my original Turbo Twist. I did a slick Button Blaster LED  mod to the spinner. Looks amazing (hard to capture well in a digital picture for some reason?).

I love it!  Awesome job!  I had a little different method in mind when I was contemplating this, but it looks like you have it working quite well indeed.   

order placed, also will the tops from Apache controls work with this one like it would on the original TT?  Any idea if they would be heavy enough to use without the ESC?

Will these work Randy??  If you don't think they are heavy enough any chance you could add the ESC to my order?  Let me know and I will pay for it tonight or tomorrow.

They should fit, but I don't think they will have the weight required.  I will add the ESC to your order, and if you think you can live without it after you test it, you can return it.

RandyT

Thanks Randy, I emailed you and also sent you a PM about how I should pay for it, not sure how since I can't just add the ESC.  Also are you working on any type of LIGHTED SPINNER TOP??         

[markrvp]

Congrats on a great looking product! 

[Cornchip]

Thanks for the kind words Randy. 

  A question for you...the resistors included for the Blue Button Blaster's is the recommended resistor for 5VDC. What would  the value be for 13.8 VDC (car voltage)?. I'm assuming the higher voltage's would need a higher value (I have no clue on how to figure that one out) 

 Cornchip

[Santoro]

Will the Token-knobs fit on it?



Oh wait.  Never mind.    


Looks AWESOME,  I hope it feels as good as it looks because we need compact spinners out there!

[Cornchip]

    I might have answered my own question here (internet to the rescue).

 http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

  I plugged in the values needed and came up with 560ohms 1/2w (13.8VDC source, 3.4VDC diode forward and 20Ma diode forward current). Phew..

 Cornchip.

[RandyT]

Anyhow, would you consider shipping to Taiwan?

Try it now.

Also are you working on any type of LIGHTED SPINNER TOP??

Only in my head.  I have an idea or two, but I'm not sure of the market size.  Doing it well and at a price suitable for small-scale production might be impossible.

  A question for you...the resistors included for the Blue Button Blaster's is the recommended resistor for 5VDC. What would  the value be for 13.8 VDC (car voltage)?. I'm assuming the higher voltage's would need a higher value (I have no clue on how to figure that one out) 

Try a 560ohm 1/2 watt resistor.  *edit* Yep, got the same result.

Will the Token-knobs fit on it?

Yes.

Congrats on a great looking product! 

Thanks, but what I really want to know is what you think of the photography   

RandyT

[squirrellydw]

I am all for a lighted top      

[whammoed]

Randy,

still curious about this...I was thinking of plugging in a trackball on this as well...

Yes, but you will need to add a couple of pull-down resistors and you'd be limited to the Z-Axis unless you use a switch to share the X or Y axis.

Pull down resistors?  So the optiwiz used on the spinner is different than the regular optiwiz in some way?  Did you have to modify things a bit to get the encoder to function properly?

[RandyT]

Pull down resistors?  So the optiwiz used on the spinner is different than the regular optiwiz in some way?

Yes.  The included Opti-Wiz is "special" because it has been modified to be more of a dedicated spinner interface to the TurboTwist 2.  A trackball can still be used, but will probably require a resistor between each data line and ground before going to the interface.

RandyT

[shmokes]

this unit is about as high-tech as it gets.. 

 

[vrf]

Anyhow, would you consider shipping to Taiwan?

Try it now.

Thank you!

Order placed. I'll look forward to receiving it.

[markrvp]

Congrats on a great looking product! 

Thanks, but what I really want to know is what you think of the photography   

Top notch.  Great depth and detail.  Very dimensional.  Exactly how you want it. 

[Havok]

Hey... Where's Christian crapping on this thread?

 

[fatfingers]

Hey... Where's Christian crapping on this thread?

Patience my young padowan...


P.S. Cool product!

[GadgetGeek]

Thinking about this from a modular CP perspective.  Is the risk of data loss significant if an extension was created to allow the spinner to be mounted in a removable module and the special edition opti-wiz located in a non-removable portion of the control panel? (ie splicing the data-cable to allow modularity)  Or would I be better off using a USB hub and mounting all the spinner electronics in the removable portion?  I'd prefer not to use the USB hub since windows sometimes likes to do annoying things when mice get unplugged and plugged back in later.  But maybe the spinner/controller doesn't take kindly to hot swapping the data cable?

[postalp123]

Randy,

Seems you're replying to this thread more than email messages... 

Amen, Im still waiting for my Email reply so Ill try here,

Hey Randy! I'm looking to buy the Mini Racer Wheel ONLY, how would I go about that?

Thanks!

[RandyT]

Hey Randy! I'm looking to buy the Mini Racer Wheel ONLY, how would I go about that?

I've not yet decided whether to offer them separately, but I am leaning toward not.  They are specially fitted to the shaft of the TurboTwist 2, and probably won't work with other spinners.

I also have no idea as to whether the construction of other spinners can withstand having the this type of heavy attachment used with them.

RandyT

[postalp123]

Hey Randy! I'm looking to buy the Mini Racer Wheel ONLY, how would I go about that?

I've not yet decided whether to offer them separately, but I am leaning toward not.  They are specially fitted to the shaft of the TurboTwist 2, and probably won't work with other spinners.

Heres my dillema, I have a SS Tornado and dont want to make another redundant $90 purchase.

As far as shaft diameter, I have a drill press and can overcome that obstacle easily enough.

I also have no idea as to whether the construction of other spinners can withstand having the this type of heavy attachment used with them.

I appreciate your concern, but I think I'll be OK, I don't really have children around to go crazy on the wheel, and as per your warning I try this with full knowledge.

Worst case scenario Randy, if it breaks the Tornado, I will simply buy a Turbo Twist 2 to replace it.

Win/Win for you (and me of course)

Make a grown man happy for Xmas, lol.

Thanks!

[postalp123]

Hey Randy! I'm looking to buy the Mini Racer Wheel ONLY, how would I go about that?

I've not yet decided whether to offer them separately, but I am leaning toward not.  They are specially fitted to the shaft of the TurboTwist 2, and probably won't work with other spinners.

Heres my dillema, I have a SS Tornado and dont want to make another redundant $90 purchase.

As far as shaft diameter, I have a drill press and can overcome that obstacle easily enough.

I also have no idea as to whether the construction of other spinners can withstand having the this type of heavy attachment used with them.

I appreciate your concern, but I think I'll be OK, I don't really have children around to go crazy on the wheel, and as per your warning I try this with full knowledge.

Worst case scenario Randy, if it breaks the Tornado, I will simply buy a Turbo Twist 2 to replace it .

Win/Win for you (and me of course  )

Make a grown man happy for Xmas, lol.

Thanks!

[RandyT]

Make a grown man happy for Xmas, lol.

I have limited stock of them on hand, but I'll see what I can do once I get a handle on all the orders. 

RandyT

[Tiger-Heli]

Hey... Where's Christian crapping on this thread?

Patience my young padowan...

LOL   

Incredible product Randy!!!  (I'm errrr, spechless . . .)  (Okay I'm never speechless on a forum, but this is the coolest thing since. . .  since . . .   This is the coolest thing . . . )

You could offer the wheel separately to previous TT 2 purchasers, as I probably won't get one initially, but will probably add one later.

Since I'm into desktop controllers, I'm thinking one of these in a Radio Shack project box would be really cool.  USB, plug and play, and small enough to put on a shelf or in a drawer when not using it.  Something like the one Oscar and I talked about ages ago: http://www.mameworld.net/tigerheli/arcadepanels/oscar_box2.jpg

If you knew you wanted the racing wheel, the box that Twisty-Grip used for their spinners would be a good choice if Radio Shack still offers them: http://arcadecontrols.com/files/Miscellaneous/Twisty-Grip_Spinner.pdf  (the spinner itself wouldn't be worth building at this late date, though).

Thanks for coming out with these.  Great idea.

[RandyT]

this unit is about as high-tech as it gets.. 

 

I meant in the context of arcade spinners.  But you knew that....

Incredible product Randy!!!  (I'm errrr, spechless . . .)  (Okay I'm never speechless on a forum, but this is the coolest thing since. . .  since . . .   This is the coolest thing . . . )
You could offer the wheel separately to previous TT 2 purchasers, as I probably won't get one initially, but will probably add one later.

Thanks for the kind words!  I'll definitely make them available to TT2 purchasers.

RandyT

[Zeppo]

Ok, I've got to ask a stupid question about spinners.

What does the "1200 transitions per revolution" mean?
Is that how many "spokes" are on the encoder wheel, or what?

Thanks.

[squirrellydw]

Thanks Randy.  I see everything shipped, you ROCK!!

[Fozzy The Bear]

What does the "1200 transitions per revolution" mean?
Is that how many "spokes" are on the encoder wheel, or what?

No.... It's how many transitions there are from dark to light and then light to dark as the encoder wheel rotates in front of the opto sensor. Hence how many pulses per revolution the spinner can output.  It also means that you can scale that output more accurately to suit different games.

Randy's new spinner has the highest number of transitions of ANY arcade spinner on the market, now or ever before, and therefore produces the most accurate output.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[Zeppo]

ah, so that would mean like 600 spokes with 600 spaces?
Or something like that?

Anyways, I'll probably be ordering one of these spinners with my next paycheck.
Too Cool.

[FunWithFire]

Anyways, I'll probably be ordering one of these spinners with my next paycheck.
Too Cool.

Can you use that paycheck to order me one too? Thanks in advance.

[u_rebelscum]

ah, so that would mean like 600 spokes with 600 spaces?
Or something like that?

300, as there are 4 states/transitions per tooth.  (The four is why the signal the sensors put out is called quadrature.) 


I thought this was asked and answered on the first page:

Randy, since you state it has 1200 transitions per revolution, I assume that you are now using a 300 cpr encoder?  Is that right?

... you are correct. 

[AlanS17]

There's 300 teeth on that tiny lil thing?!? I saw that post, but didn't know what it meant. I know alot about BYOAC, but spinners are most certainly not my specialty.

[FrizzleFried]

...I can't believe it hasn't been asked yet...what is the all-too-overly-advertised-because-it-really-doesn't-mean-squat SPIN TIMES of these suckers?!?!?  With and without weight...

[Tiger-Heli]

...I can't believe it hasn't been asked yet...what is the all-too-overly-advertised-because-it-really-doesn't-mean-squat SPIN TIMES of these suckers?!?!?  With and without weight...

That would depend on how hard you initially spin it . . . 

Randy - I was just curious whether the Opti-Wiz board included with the TT2 still supports mouse buttons.  I compared the initial post pics with the Opti-Wiz pics on GGG, and it looks like the solder points are there, but the pin header has been removed.

Buttons would be nice for a standalone module like I posted earlier, but not a big deal if it doesn't support them.

[RandyT]

Randy - I was just curious whether the Opti-Wiz board included with the TT2 still supports mouse buttons.  I compared the initial post pics with the Opti-Wiz pics on GGG, and it looks like the solder points are there, but the pin header has been removed.

Buttons would be nice for a standalone module like I posted earlier, but not a big deal if it doesn't support them.

Nuts....  I need to take another picture.  Good eye!

The 4-pin header IS still there and it still supports the 3 mouse buttons just fine.  The one in the photos just didn't have it as it was a test unit.  I also neglected to extol that feature in the description, so I'll take care of that as well.

Thanks for the heads up..

...I can't believe it hasn't been asked yet...what is the all-too-overly-advertised-because-it-really-doesn't-mean-squat SPIN TIMES of these suckers?!?!?  With and without weight...

With the ESC, it spins longer than an arcade spinner control needs to, without the ESC , you'll get a few revs.  I'm not going to perpetuate that silliness by saying anything more than that on the subject.

RandyT

[Derrick Renaud]

...I can't believe it hasn't been asked yet...what is the all-too-overly-advertised-because-it-really-doesn't-mean-squat SPIN TIMES of these suckers?!?!?  With and without weight...

With the ESC, it spins longer than an arcade spinner control needs to, without the ESC , you'll get a few revs.  I'm not going to perpetuate that silliness by saying anything more than that on the subject.

RandyT

I agree spin time is over-rated.  It is useless during actual game play.  It is really only to spin crazily on tempest at the end of a level.  Too much weight actually hinders control when reversing directions.

If you made the ESC magnetic, surrounded it with motor windings, then you could selectively short the windings allowing for selective spin times.  Similar to magnetic dampened exercise bikes.

Randy, did you get my p-mail?

D.

[RandyT]

If you made the ESC magnetic, surrounded it with motor windings, then you could selectively short the windings allowing for selective spin times.  Similar to magnetic dampened exercise bikes.

Gave this some thought, but I would be concerned about magnetic fields around monitors and such.  It think it might also induce a "stepped" feel to the control, but I haven't tried it so it might actually work

Randy, did you get my p-mail?

Yes, my apologies to you and others who are waiting for replies.  There has been a flurry of emails in the last few days and things are getting backed up a bit. 

RandyT

[Derrick Renaud]

If you made the ESC magnetic, surrounded it with motor windings, then you could selectively short the windings allowing for selective spin times.  Similar to magnetic dampened exercise bikes.

Gave this some thought, but I would be concerned about magnetic fields around monitors and such.  It think it might also induce a "stepped" feel to the control, but I haven't tried it so it might actually work

RandyT

That's a feature.  It massages your fingers as you play. 

But yes, it does have a stepped/bumpy feel.  From hardly noticeable to bumpy.  Depending on the pattern of windings shorted.  Take a capstain motor from a junk VCR and short the windings for fun.

Of course it would add to the price instead of reducing it as most people would like. 

D.

[quarterback]

If you made the ESC magnetic, surrounded it with motor windings, then you could selectively short the windings allowing for selective spin times.  Similar to magnetic dampened exercise bikes.

 It think it might also induce a "stepped" feel to the control

But yes, it does have a stepped/bumpy feel.  From hardly noticeable to bumpy.  Depending on the pattern of windings shorted. 

Sounds perfect for Ikari Warriors!

[u_rebelscum]

There's 300 teeth on that tiny lil thing?!? I saw that post, but didn't know what it meant. I know alot about BYOAC, but spinners are most certainly not my specialty.

I'm guessing it's probably not the normal "teeth" and "gaps".  I'm guessing etching on a metal cylinder, with sensors detecting the reflected light instead of light that passes through.  But the principal is the same, and it's easier to stick with the well know "teeth" and "gaps".

[Havok]

So where's the exploded view?

 

[Zeppo]

There's 300 teeth on that tiny lil thing?!? I saw that post, but didn't know what it meant. I know alot about BYOAC, but spinners are most certainly not my specialty.

Exactly.
I had seen that too, but no idea what it meant.

Thanks,

[diverdown]

What all those people said up above....


(except the nay sayers)

Snaps to GGG once again

And suffer in everyone elses jocks

cos:

"Thank You for shopping ! We Appreciate your Business!
You Have Successfully Completed the Checkout Process!

IMPORTANT:

The charge will show as Ithaca Digital Visual Technologies or whatever portion is able to fit on your statement.

Please note this information to avoid incorrect claims with your credit card company.

Your order is now being processed and will usually be shipped within 24 to 36 hours. If for any reason we have difficulties filling your order, you will be notified within that time.


 
Please notify me of updates to the products I have selected below:

 TurboTwist 2™ Arcade Spinner Control

 
Your Order Number is: XXX
You can view your order history by going to the My Account page and by clicking on view all orders.

Please direct any questions you have to customer service.
Thank You for shopping at GroovyGameGear.com and we hope to serve you again soon!




My order number was up there in the 3000 i hope thats not how many people bought a spinner before me

[diverdown]

Will the Token-knobs fit on it?



Oh wait.  Never mind.    


Looks AWESOME,  I hope it feels as good as it looks because we need compact spinners out there!

Where would i get my grubby little Australian paws on one of these?

[Santoro]

They were never made, that was my way of busting Randy's hump about it. 

[JustMichael]

Any chance of knobs made from the "electric ice" plastic?

[RandyT]

They were never made, that was my way of busting Randy's hump about it. 

Let's not dwell on the past....they are being made as we speak, but will have a nice rubber inset grip instead of the cold and slippery stainless.

You will love them


RandyT

[Donkey_Kong]

Guess that answers which spinner knob I will choose...SICK!!

[Kremmit]

There's 300 teeth on that tiny lil thing?!? I saw that post, but didn't know what it meant. I know alot about BYOAC, but spinners are most certainly not my specialty.

I'm guessing it's probably not the normal "teeth" and "gaps".  I'm guessing etching on a metal cylinder, with sensors detecting the reflected light instead of light that passes through.  But the principal is the same, and it's easier to stick with the well know "teeth" and "gaps".

I think it's the same as the one Whammoed used on his homemade high-res spinner- it was a little tiny white plastic disc with some super-fine printing making up the "teeth".  I know there was a picture somewhere, but danged if I can find it.  I also suspect it's the same thing that's inside the other new spinner on the market, and I believe the original Razer gaming mice used the same tech as well.  Wave of the future, I guess.

[Aurich]

I also suspect it's the same thing that's inside the other new spinner on the market

"Uses two etched mylar optical grids" according to the site of the unnamed spinner. Slightly lower resolution too, 1000 instead of 1200.

I dunno, it seems so obvious now, but I really think Randy came up with a great design. I'm slightly nervous about trying to holesaw through my overlay, but I'm pretty tempted...

[Kremmit]

Exacto the overlay, then holesaw the wood?

No, wait... clamp a piece of scrap wood on top of the CP first, sandwiching the overlay.  Holesaw through the sandwich.

[diverdown]

They were never made, that was my way of busting Randy's hump about it. 

  .......got me all excited 

Let's not dwell on the past....they are being made as we speak, but will have a nice rubber inset grip instead of the cold and slippery stainless.

You will love them


RandyT

Hmmmm should I be delaying your mail out to get my hands on one of those spinners tops.....  or are we talking after christmas....?

[shmokes]

It's funny.  I haven't always got along with you Randy (for largely the same reason there seem to be people in this thread who have a problem with Christian).  There was a time, not too long ago, when I intended to actively avoid your products.  It has been a long time, though, since I've had any quarrel with you (dunno if this is just because I spend most my time in the EE, P&R and Console forums these days or if things have actually changed).  But more importantly, this product looks like it is REALLY REALLY cool.  I have very little space available on my CP and was locked into a SS Tornado spinner because of space considerations (and was still not sure I would ultimately have enough room).  With these I think I'm almost positive that I could mount two of them.

This might be enough to force me to call the past water under the bridge.  Not any time soon, mind you, as I'm dirt poor until at least summer time probably, but I have to at least congratulate you.  This is one damned impressive product.  Can't wait to hear how it performs.

In unrelated news, I noticed from one of the posts in this thread that there's actually a small chance we'll end up neighbors next fall.  Cornell is my first choice for law school.  My chances of getting in are low, but I've already applied and have my fingers crossed.  Let me know if you have any connections on the admissions board and I'll sign over my soul to you.   

[Santoro]

Let's not dwell on the past....they are being made as we speak, but will have a nice rubber inset grip instead of the cold and slippery stainless.

That's great news.  I had assumed you'd scrapped the idea.  

[Bobbler]

Dont even have my first cab finished yet, but I feel that I needed one for some reason LOL.
Playing Arkanoid with the proper control was too much for me not to. Should have a nice little spot for it too. Wondering if I would be able to use this as a control for selecting my games on GameEx, would be pretty sweet with an analogue control method. Will give it a go.

[squirrellydw]

Will the Token-knobs fit on it?



Oh wait.  Never mind.   


Looks AWESOME,  I hope it feels as good as it looks because we need compact spinners out there!

Where would i get my grubby little Australian paws on one of these?

Can you give us a time frame and an idea of price?

[RandyT]

Can you give us a time frame and an idea of price?

Due to the cost of materials and the overall difficulty level of machining stainless, it's going to be a little higher than I hoped.  It's looking to be at the $19.95 price point.  Then again, stainless will last virtually forever, so....

But there is something that I'll talk about soon (after I conduct some tests) that may make that number much easier to swallow.

Time frame = Before Christmas, but maybe not in time for Christmas delivery.


RandyT

[Santoro]

Sorry to open the can of worms, that wasn't my intention.  

[ImaTest]

I'm jumping in late, but I just want to congratulate you on a really awesome looking product Randy.  It looks amazing.  Thanks for continually making us losers covet new shiny arcade parts 

[Aurich]

Exacto the overlay, then holesaw the wood?

No, wait... clamp a piece of scrap wood on top of the CP first, sandwiching the overlay.  Holesaw through the sandwich.

It's a metal CP (Galaga style), and the problem is the heat during the drilling bubbles the polycarbonite and the vinyl. I've tested it on scrap before. So ya, some exacto work will probably be required if I do it.

[Crax]

Would it be possible to have two of them mounted to play some of the multi player(on one screen) driving games?

[whammoed]

Exacto the overlay, then holesaw the wood?

No, wait... clamp a piece of scrap wood on top of the CP first, sandwiching the overlay.  Holesaw through the sandwich.

It's a metal CP (Galaga style), and the problem is the heat during the drilling bubbles the polycarbonite and the vinyl. I've tested it on scrap before. So ya, some exacto work will probably be required if I do it.

you need a greenlee hole punch, find a used one on ebay for cheap

[u_rebelscum]

Would it be possible to have two of them mounted to play some of the multi player(on one screen) driving games?

Yes.

Either buy a master and a slave, hook the slave to the master, and remap mame, or
buy two masters with different IDs, hook both up to a winXP or win9x computer, and remap mame.

The only differences between the two are a couple bucks, and the latter doesn't work in win2K.  (Both need a semi-current mame.)

edit: added IDs

[squirrellydw]

Can you give us a time frame and an idea of price?

But there is something that I'll talk about soon (after I conduct some tests) that may make that number much easier to swallow.

Oh, I know!!!! you are going to have the top able to light up like your TB and buttons.   PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE

[RandyT]

In unrelated news, I noticed from one of the posts in this thread that there's actually a small chance we'll end up neighbors next fall.  Cornell is my first choice for law school.  My chances of getting in are low, but I've already applied and have my fingers crossed.  Let me know if you have any connections on the admissions board and I'll sign over my soul to you.   

We're all good, Shmokes, but I can't help you with the Cornell thing.  Besides, I have so many souls I don't know what to do with them all 

If you end up heading this way, make sure you bring a warm jacket.  You'll need it.

Sorry to open the can of worms, that wasn't my intention.   

Not a problem.  Got some other "semi-premium" knob styles in the works as well.  I might need some more tokens soon though.  It's been so long that I lost the batch I had.  But I'm sure I'll find them.

Oh, I know!!!! you are going to have the top able to light up like your TB and buttons.   PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE

Hehe, no lights.  It's just an interesting discovery that may prove to be beneficial and economical at the same time.  But I'm not talking about it until I can do the testing.

RandyT

[Tiger-Heli]

Sorry to open the can of worms, that wasn't my intention.   

You're not the one opening the can of worms - see below:

It's just an interesting discovery that may prove to be beneficial and economical at the same time.  But I'm not talking about it until I can do the testing.

I always HATE posts like this!   

[RandyT]

I always HATE posts like this!   

Sorry, I have to have the facts in order before I make the claims

On another note;

Here's an example of the "semi-premium" spinner knobs I mentioned.  These will be separate order items and I have a few other styles / designs, including some very Tempest-like knobs.

Don't get too excited about the MAME one though.  I need to get permission before I can offer that one.


RandyT

[squirrellydw]

looks nice, are they just stickers??

[RandyT]

looks nice, are they just stickers??

They are faux brushed metal decals.  They are shinier in real life.

And before you ask, I will most likely make the decals available separately so the Big Blue owners can put them on the knobs themselves.

RandyT

[squirrellydw]

Thanks Randy, you ROCK

[Santoro]

I would be surprised if the MameDevs withheld permission for you to use the Logo.  Just don't claim in your promotional materials that the spinner allows you to play thousands of games. 

[Tiger-Heli]

Bah - the little invaders dude is probably copyright also when we get down to it - Although I guess it's trademark, not copyright in this case.

You probably shouldn't advertise it as:

"MAME Turbo-Twist 2 MAME spinner for use in MAME arcade machines.  Get your MAME spinner knob here at GGG, the place for all your MAME needs.  Allows you to plays all your ROMZ and gamez faster and better than ever before . . .  If it's in MAME it needs this spinner knob."

FWIW!

[RandyT]

You probably shouldn't advertise it as:

"MAME Turbo-Twist 2 MAME spinner for use in MAME arcade machines.  Get your MAME spinner knob here at GGG, the place for all your MAME needs.  Allows you to plays all your ROMZ and gamez faster and better than ever before . . .  If it's in MAME it needs this spinner knob."

LOL!  Probably not, but that post ought to do make great search engine fodder   


RandyT

[squirrellydw]

WOW, I just received my order today and all I can say is WOW!!!  Now I am not an expert but the spinner looks very, very high quality and the steering wheel is definitely not what I thought it would be like.  I love that thing, I can't wait to use it, unfortunately it won't be ready for about another month or two.

Thanks Randy you make great products.  Hope it performs as well as it looks.

[FrizzleFried]

Awe...I opened my mailbox this afternoon to find a box!  DAMN I WAS EXCITED!  Only to find a minute later that the box contained a DOG SWEATER...

My wife had used my name...

(

[squirrellydw]

Awe...I opened my mailbox this afternoon to find a box!  DAMN I WAS EXCITED!  Only to find a minute later that the box contained a DOG SWEATER...

My wife had used my name...

(

    thats why I always look at the address

[Timoe]

These are really great looking.  I will need to wait for the next run or so as I need a new table saw first.  BAH!

[MajorLag]

Everytime Randy releases a new product I fell less bad about not yet starting (or being able to afford) my Mame cab. The way things are going, by the time I actually do get around to it he may very well have invented some form of solid matter projection that allows infinitely configurable control panels.

[quarterback]

Awe...I opened my mailbox this afternoon to find a box!  DAMN I WAS EXCITED!  Only to find a minute later that the box contained a DOG SWEATER...

My wife had used my name...

(

    thats why I always look at the address

That's why FizzleFried got all excited, because the package was postmarked from Ithaca NY.
You didn't know that Randy had dog sweaters for sale as well?

http://www.groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=84

[Fozzy The Bear]

Here's an example of the "semi-premium" spinner knobs I mentioned.  These will be separate order items and I have a few other styles / designs, including some very Tempest-like knobs.

Wohhhhh! Randy!! Those are absolutely awesome!!......  Only one question?? Will you be able to offer one off custom designs???  I'm guessing that you have to order these in bulk so I'm guessing the answer will be no. But I thought I'd ask anyway.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[RandyT]

Wohhhhh! Randy!! Those are absolutely awesome!!......  Only one question?? Will you be able to offer one off custom designs???  I'm guessing that you have to order these in bulk so I'm guessing the answer will be no. But I thought I'd ask anyway.

Actually, I did the vectorization and cutting of these myself.  Custom stuff will take more time and would have a cost associated with them, but if the art is already vectorized and not too detailed, it shouldn't be too bad.  I'll see what I can do.

RandyT

[Fozzy The Bear]

if the art is already vectorized and not too detailed, it shouldn't be too bad.  I'll see what I can do.

That's great! thanks Randy.... It's about time I started to learn to vectorize artwork anyway... LOL I've got a good excuse now 

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[Kremmit]

Exacto the overlay, then holesaw the wood?

No, wait... clamp a piece of scrap wood on top of the CP first, sandwiching the overlay.  Holesaw through the sandwich.

It's a metal CP (Galaga style), and the problem is the heat during the drilling bubbles the polycarbonite and the vinyl. I've tested it on scrap before. So ya, some exacto work will probably be required if I do it.

you need a greenlee hole punch, find a used one on ebay for cheap

Oh, metal CP.  Whammoed is right.  No heat, no drilling, no bubbles.

[subcriminal]

Hi, I hope I did this right as I'm in the UK, suppose I should have asked first. I just ordered a TurboTwist 2 slave as I have an optipac in my cab, I take it the master one just includes the interface board so will a slave be ok through the optipac? I also chose USB1 as the device number as It'll be the only USB peripheral plugged into the motherboard.

Cheers.

[Popcorrin]

Exacto the overlay, then holesaw the wood?

No, wait... clamp a piece of scrap wood on top of the CP first, sandwiching the overlay.  Holesaw through the sandwich.

It's a metal CP (Galaga style), and the problem is the heat during the drilling bubbles the polycarbonite and the vinyl. I've tested it on scrap before. So ya, some exacto work will probably be required if I do it.

you need a greenlee hole punch, find a used one on ebay for cheap

Oh, metal CP.  Whammoed is right.  No heat, no drilling, no bubbles.

You still have to drill a 3/4 inch hole to use the hole punch unless you have a press you can use.

[whammoed]

Exacto the overlay, then holesaw the wood?

No, wait... clamp a piece of scrap wood on top of the CP first, sandwiching the overlay.  Holesaw through the sandwich.

It's a metal CP (Galaga style), and the problem is the heat during the drilling bubbles the polycarbonite and the vinyl. I've tested it on scrap before. So ya, some exacto work will probably be required if I do it.

you need a greenlee hole punch, find a used one on ebay for cheap

Oh, metal CP.  Whammoed is right.  No heat, no drilling, no bubbles.

You still have to drill a 3/4 inch hole to use the hole punch unless you have a press you can use.

The older models are something like a 3/8" pilot hole for that size punch which is likely the style you will find cheap on ebay.  Either way, go slow with drilling the pilot hole and you should be fine.  Use a step bit for the pilot hole and go one "step" at a time. 

[fatfingers]

Hi, I hope I did this right as I'm in the UK, suppose I should have asked first. I just ordered a TurboTwist 2 slave as I have an optipac in my cab, I take it the master one just includes the interface board so will a slave be ok through the optipac? I also chose USB1 as the device number as It'll be the only USB peripheral plugged into the motherboard.

Cheers.

I could have sworn that up in the thread a ways Randy said the optipac wouldn't be quite the same as a master.  Anyone else?

[RandyT]

Hi, I hope I did this right as I'm in the UK, suppose I should have asked first. I just ordered a TurboTwist 2 slave as I have an optipac in my cab, I take it the master one just includes the interface board so will a slave be ok through the optipac? I also chose USB1 as the device number as It'll be the only USB peripheral plugged into the motherboard.

You needn't worry about USB device number for a slave configuration.  The store isn't smart enough to use logic for the options.

I haven't tested the device with other interfaces, so full-performance can't be guaranteed in that configuration.  But as far as actually getting it to work, moving a jumper or two on your interface or adding a couple of resistors might be necessary.

RandyT

[RetroJames!]

Randy, I missed this when announced but wow, great job! This really looks to be one of your best yet!

[postalp123]

Hey Randy, still waiting on the possibility of buying a loose MiniRacer wheel off of you...

No rush 

[FrizzleFried]

Randy,

I am at work and have not messed with my spinner yet...but I do see any kind of instructions in regards to where to attach the wire that goes from the circuitboard to the spinner...

Also...that wire is pretty short.  I have a metal CP and can't easily attach the circuitboard to the CP and I am not sure if it will read to inside the cabinet while the CP is in it's open position.

Looking at the device,  it shouldn't be TOO difficult to figure out where to attach these two connectors BUT it would be nice to have something in writing...

That aside...the damn thing is SOLID feeling...especially with the added weight.

[RandyT]

I do see any kind of instructions in regards to where to attach the wire that goes from the circuitboard to the spinner...

The first 4 units shipped without docs because they weren't quite ready (last minute changes.)  Rather than hold up the shipments for a piece of paper, we sent them off.

Check your email, the PDF has been sent.

RandyT

[squirrellydw]

I know he sent me an email file.

Dam randy, your quick   

[FrizzleFried]

Hell yeah you are quick....DOCs in my email box as promised!

If I was within the first 4 units sent out...which number was I?  It would be sorta cool in some strange nerdy way to be #1...

[squirrellydw]

yeah me to

[vrf]

Thanks for the fast shipping!

So... sorry for the newbie question, but how do you take the black rubber knob off? It's like welded on or something. (Or at least it resists all my efforts at being gentle.) I want to try out the mini steering wheel.

Oh, no joke about the steering wheel, folks. This thing could be used as a deadly weapon. It sure is solid. (Although a bit scratched up on the bottom. No biggee, though.)

Thanks for the help!

[squirrellydw]

I think it has a small set screw on the side.  Uses an allen wrench I think.

[RandyT]

Thanks for the fast shipping!

Wow!  Taiwan already?  Cool...

So... sorry for the newbie question, but how do you take the black rubber knob off? It's like welded on or something. (Or at least it resists all my efforts at being gentle.) I want to try out the mini steering wheel.

The rubber is attached.  To remove the knob, you will need to stretch the rubber up from the bottom.  It will only allow you to do this over the screw hole, so you'll know where it is once you try to lift it in a couple of places.  It's a little tricky, but no visible screw hole or interruption in the rubber.  A small flathead screwdriver is required for the rubber ringed knobs.

Oh, no joke about the steering wheel, folks. This thing could be used as a deadly weapon. It sure is solid. (Although a bit scratched up on the bottom. No biggee, though.)

I told you they weren't cheap little toy wheels.   The little scratches and a little bit of wobble are going to be par for the course.  They are new and I polished them up, but they aren't precision / cosmetically oriented items.  However, they feel and work really nice (and don't look too bad either).


RandyT

[torez]

Randy, how about Omega Race style control knob?  I don't see new ones of these anywhere and I liked the feel of it.  The top would have enough space for a token, if desired.

[Bobbler]

Well it seems I was somewhere in that first 4. Thanks Randy, spinner arrived this morning. That's quicker than some items I have bought right here in the UK!

[RayB]

Randy, which knob would you recommend for Arkanoid?

[shardian]

Randy, how about Omega Race style control knob?  I don't see new ones of these anywhere and I liked the feel of it.  The top would have enough space for a token, if desired.

I have an pot based omega race spinner sitting around somewhere, and I don't know what the big deal is about that knob. That thing is super fugly and cheap looking.

[Havok]

Randy, how about Omega Race style control knob?  I don't see new ones of these anywhere and I liked the feel of it.  The top would have enough space for a token, if desired.

I have an pot based omega race spinner sitting around somewhere, and I don't know what the big deal is about that knob. That thing is super fugly and cheap looking.

Some guys like fugly... Kind of like going hoggin'...

 

Personally, I like sleek and sexy - the standard knob is good for me, or I may go the big blue route with an invaders decal. Have to get through Christmas first...

[FrizzleFried]

TURBO TWIST 2 MINI-REVIEW

I received my Turbo Twist 2 a few days after ordering.  Upon recieving the package,  I was initially surprised by the weight.  Having purchased 6 buttons as well,  it wasn't until I unpackaged the thing that I realized that the majority of the weight was the Turbo Twist's added weight I purchased.   The Turbo Twist 2 comes with the unit itself,  the weight (if purchased...and mine was already installed),  a separate PCB,  with 2 screws and little cardboard "feet" {edit: I have been informed that these stand-offs are,  in fact,  made of a resin substance,  not cardboard}, USB cable, and a short (12" or so) cable to attach the unit to the PCB.

I was impressed when I first took a good look at the Turbo Twist 2.  It is a very "clean" looking device and about as simple to install as can be.  The biggest pain-in-the-ass is mounting the included PCB somewhere close enough that the included wire will reach.

I essentially dropped the unit in to a 1.125" (1 1/8") hole I had pre-drilled in my control panel in anticipation of the spinners arrival...mounted the pcb to my cabinet just under the control panel (i opted to use regular "PCB feet" I had laying around instead of the include stand-offs),  attach the wire from the PCB to the spinner (there is room for 2 "hot" and "ground" wires as well as connections for X, Y, and Z axis'...read the included documentation for information on exactly how to hook this up),  attach the USB cable to the PCB and plug the USB cable in to the PC.  The computer immediately recognized the unit as a mouse and the drivers installed automatically.

I went in to MAME.INI,  changed MOUSE 0 to MOUSE 1, and we were in business!  Initially,  my spinner didn't appear to work in MAME.  However,  I soon realized that the spinner was assigned as MOUSE 1 by Windows and my wireless mouse was assigned MOUSE 0.   So if the spinner doesn't work in MAME after you have activated it in MAME.INI,  you will have to go in to mames settings and change "paddle" and "dial" settings to MOUSE 1.

Once up and running I immediately ran Tempest.  Initially,  the settings in Tempest were set so high that a slight movement resulted in extreme movement...and anything more than a slow movement resulted in my guy randomly bouncing around.  After changing the sensitivity settings in MAME via the OTHER CONTROLS/ANALOG menu down to 18% things are running KICKASS.

Next came Arkanoid...I was prepared to have to modify the settings again,  but no,  whatever the setting is at for Arkanoid,  it is just right...the same for DOH...but Tempest came calling again. 

Being that this is my first HOME arcade spinner,  I can't compare it to anything other than "arcade" units,  and I have to say that this spinner performs on par,  if not better than the majority of the spinners I have used.   The key to what makes this spinner so attractive is the SIMPLICITY of installation as well as the COST!   This thing,  with weight and "big blue" knob costs on par with what some of the competition asks for their base model...some WITHOUT optical board!

Take it or leave it...but i give this device one hellva "THUMBS UP!"

EDIT:  I have been informed that the perfect setting for Tempest with the stock knob is,  in fact,  6%....so I was still WAY off.

[dynamite]

nice review. I hope to be picking up one of these bad boys soon too. What are the odds that by then someone will have put together a little sensitivity chart for all the games so that the initial setup for the rest of us goes a little quicker??

[torez]

Randy, how about Omega Race style control knob?  I don't see new ones of these anywhere and I liked the feel of it.  The top would have enough space for a token, if desired.

I have an pot based omega race spinner sitting around somewhere, and I don't know what the big deal is about that knob. That thing is super fugly and cheap looking.

Hehe, the old ones that are worn out are not exactly lookers, that's why I was hoping for something more "21 century" looking, possibly different colors and texture/tokens, but with the same approximate conical shape.  Just like the slight slope in the knob and the bit rounded top edge for comfort reasons and area of the grip.

[diverdown]

looks nice, are they just stickers??

I will most likely make the decals available separately so the Big Blue owners can put them on the knobs themselves.

RandyT

phew....... cos I wanted one, but big blue arrived in the mail yesterday


Bloody wife got hold of the package before I got home and locked it up till christmas day...... I'm sure it looked good though 

[diverdown]

Hell yeah you are quick....DOCs in my email box as promised!

If I was within the first 4 units sent out...which number was I?  It would be sorta cool in some strange nerdy way to be #1...

Hehe i think I count at least 5 people, including me who got the docs emailed to us.

To put the cat amongst the pigeons - my order number was 3000. So I guess if people look at their order number associated with the delivery of the TT2 we can see who was actually in the top few orders.

Any one else want to play?   

[FrizzleFried]

Order 2984 here...

[squirrellydw]

Haha, beat you by one      Order #2983

[Fozzy The Bear]

Haha, beat you by one      Order #2983

Sorry to bust your bubble boys.... I got Order #2982

 

Although I've also got the "wife locking it up till Christmas" problem 

It hasn't arrived yet though 

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[FrizzleFried]

...yah?  Well...uh...MINE IS UP AND RUNNING AND I'VE PLAYED TEMPEST WITH IT! 


Nanny nanny nah nah!


And you???  Hmmm???

 

[Fozzy The Bear]

MINE IS UP AND RUNNING

Which is more than can be said for my local postman....   

ROFL

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[squirrellydw]

I'm still building my cab, won't be done for about another 2 to 3 months 

[Fozzy The Bear]

Fortunately I think I can get a router bit into that hole and cut through the plexi and the wood and the artwork all at the same time 

If your luck is anywhere near as bad as mine, you will end up with a bunch of saw dust inconveniently nestled in between the artwork and plexi doing it that way LOL.   

ROFLMAO....  Don't you just hate it when when you know it's going to happen and it does!!!  I've now got to disconnect all the buttons, take them out of the panel, just to be able to lift the plexi enough to clean all the dust and plastic chips out. ARRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!           

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

 

[RandyT]

ROFLMAO....  Don't you just hate it when when you know it's going to happen and it does!!! I've now got to disconnect all the buttons, take them out of the panel, just to be able to lift the plexi enough to clean all the dust and plastic chips out. ARRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!
 

First, try just loosening all of the nuts.  You might be able to lift the plastic enough to blow out the dust without having to disconnect everything!

RandyT

[Fozzy The Bear]

First, try just loosening all of the nuts.  You might be able to lift the plastic enough to blow out the dust without having to disconnect everything!

Yeah! Thanks for the suggestion Randy.... I did try that first, but the static on the plexi was holding it in there, even with a serious air blast from the compressor. 

In the end I took everything out... my Joysticks are bottom mounted on the 8 ways and and top mounted under the artwork on the 4 way. So I was able to leave those in place and just remove the shafts and just the ball top on the 4 way. The rest of the buttons were easy enough to get out.  I also have a nice tidy well tied down wiring loom, so it was a piece of cake to put back in again. Took a lot less time than I was expecting.

I now have a nice clean 1-1/8" hole ready for Christmas Morning! 

   I really must post some pictures at some point....

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

 

[RayB]

Randy, which knob would you recommend for Arkanoid?

[RandyT]

Randy, which knob would you recommend for Arkanoid?

By the end of next week there will be a knob available that I expect will be better for this type of game than any other knob prior to it. 

The cost may put it out of reach for some, but it might just prove to be as big a "forehead slapper" as the design of the TT2.  Details will follow when I get a unit for testing. 

As for the closest in size of the current "low-cost" knobs, I would say that "Black Dimple" would be the ticket.  "Big Blue" is also quite good with a a little bit of extra sensitivity (100% for DOH and about 50% for Arkanoid.)


And in the FWIW department;

For those who haven't figured it out from the above, there is a knob diameter to "transitions per revolution" ratio that must be maintained to closely duplicate the feel of the originals.  A knob smaller than the original will need lowered sensitivity, while a knob larger than the original (like "Big Blue") will want increased sensitivity.  If anyone is wondering about the value of resolution higher than the original control, this would be it.


RandyT

[patrickl]

Wouldn't the "feel" be more connected to the angle of rotation rather than the diameter of the knob? Especially when it is within one revolution. At least that's how I play. of course a bigger knob will feel different too, but the angle of rotation is far more important to me.

[RandyT]

Wouldn't the "feel" be more connected to the angle of rotation rather than the diameter of the knob? Especially when it is within one revolution. At least that's how I play. of course a bigger knob will feel different too, but the angle of rotation is far more important to me.

Smaller knobs have a shorter circumference, meaning that less of it travels through your fingers to make the same amount of on-screen movement.  Likewise, a larger knob will have a longer circumference, so it will feel like you are turning the knob more, even at the same angle ranges. 

Both are important, but unless you turn the knob exclusively with your wrist (most will not) the amount of knob surface traveling past your fingertips will be a very large contributor to the feel of the gameplay.

RandyT

[Fozzy The Bear]

WAHEY!!!!!!!   

My spinner arrived today! Although I still haven't seen it because my other half has locked it away in a draw....    How will I survive two weeks without it knowing it's there 

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[RayB]

Thanks for the info Randy.

[Havok]

Randy - inventory is getting a little low...

Don't you dare run out of stock when I finally get some cash to buy this!!!

 

[monkeybomb]

Randy - inventory is getting a little low...

Don't you dare run out of stock when I finally get some cash to buy this!!!

 

I bet he makes more when these are gone.  But I could be wrong.

[RandyT]

Randy - inventory is getting a little low...
Don't you dare run out of stock when I finally get some cash to buy this!!!

Heh.  That number is just the current finished inventory.  The process is rather involved so we do them in batches.  I still have a good quantity of parts on the shelf and I'll be making sure the supply issues of the first version won't be rearing their ugly heads on this one.  The updated design was partially to prevent those types of issues.

Side note:  The machinist called today and said the TokenKnobs are finished.  When I asked him what he thought of the design of the finished part, I believe his response was "gorgeous".  I'll be picking them up tomorrow, so I should have something to show / talk about tomorrow evening.

RandyT

[JustMichael]

Pictures please!!!!

[JoyMonkey]

Side note:  The machinist called today and said the TokenKnobs are finished.  When I asked him what he thought of the design of the finished part, I believe his response was "gorgeous".  I'll be picking them up tomorrow, so I should have something to show / talk about tomorrow evening.

I'm on the verge of putting in an order, but I think I might wait until the TokenKnobs are available. Any news?

[Donkey_Kong]

Order placed just now.

Says the TT2 is sold out after I placed my order...randy I don't think you will miss in the special instructions...
Please Add BYOAC TOKEN KNOB and charge accordingly

[Neilyboy]

Your Order Number is: 3080

Thanks so much

Neil

[RandyT]

I'm on the verge of putting in an order, but I think I might wait until the TokenKnobs are available. Any news?

This should answer your question: (shown next to the standard TurboTwist 2™ knob for reference purposes)

GroovyGameGear would like to introduce the TokenTop™ Premium Spinner Knob, specially designed to add even more ground-breaking features to the already impressive list of the TurboTwist 2™ spinner.

Features:

• Accu-Twist™ -The Worlds FIRST and ONLY "on-the-fly" arcade spinner resistance adjustment technology.  Go from free-spinning to any amount of knob resistance you desire with a simple 3-second adjustment.  Finally, you can have both the precision and original control feel of Arkanoid-style games.
  
• No ESC Required - The Energy Storage Cylinder is no longer required for prolonged spin when you use the TokenTop knob.  Reduces the vertical footprint of the TurboTwist 2 to an amazing 1.5" below 3/4" wood panels with no spinner performance penalty!
• Ultra-Durable - Solid CNC machined Stainless Steel Construction provides timeless elegance even when used in harsh environments.
• Ultra-Comfortable - Thick, soft rubber grip is inlaid over the entire contact surface of the knob to make extended use more enjoyable and slip free.
• Ruggedly Stylish - The beautiful satin finish and precision token inlay gives the TokenTop spinner knob a one-of-a-kind appearance that will enhance the look of any control panel.

Price is only $22.95 and will be on sale by this coming weekend.


RandyT

[JoyMonkey]

 

Payday can't come fast enough.

[Donkey_Kong]

Order placed just now.

Says the TT2 is sold out after I placed my order...randy I don't think you will miss in the special instructions...
Please Add BYOAC TOKEN KNOB and charge accordingly

Ordered my Token Knob before I seen the final!! Order #3079  
Can't wait! I can go start cutting and grinding on my NEW CP now in anticipation of arrival of new goodies TT2 w/wheel and Token Knob + Electric Ice!! See ya...

Features:


Accu-Twist™ -The Worlds FIRST and ONLY "on-the-fly" arcade spinner resistance adjustment technology.  Go from free-spinning to any amount of knob resistance you desire with a simple 3-second adjustment.  Finally, you can have both the precision and original control feel of Arkanoid-style games.

Function too...Bonus!! Thought the BYOAC token knobs were to just look perty!

[patrickl]

Do you have that knob without the coin inlay too? Or does it also take the space invader decals?

[Kaytrim]

Randy,

Any idea when you will come out with a lit knob made from the same material as your Electric Ice stuff?  The new token knob is nice bling but a lit knob would be the ultimate bling for a CP.     Especially when lit with a RGB LED and powered by your LED Wiz.   You would be the only manufacturer with this type of knob.

Though looking at the TT2 again you would do better retooling the spinner on the inside to include the RGB LED and a new knob made from the translucent meterial.  Then you can sell it as the TT Electric Ice model.

After all that then we would need an Electric Ice Joystick to finish out the ultimate bling bling.  A custom built Electric Ice Control Panel. 

[Fozzy The Bear]

GroovyGameGear would like to introduce the TokenTop™ Premium Spinner Knob

Fozzy The Bear would like to introduce another dent in his credit card....

WOHHH!! That is utterly awesome!! Why Oh Why didn't I wait until you released this. It's on the list for a New Year order 

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[FrizzleFried]

I am interested in how the ACCU-TWIST function works...

...and if custom coins/etc can be added...

I mean I love you guys,  but I am not to sure about the BYOAC pimpage action for the cabinet...

[RandyT]

I am interested in how the ACCU-TWIST function works..

Loosen the knob with the included tool.  Raising lowers the resistance and lowering increases it.

...and if custom coins/etc can be added...

I mean I love you guys,  but I am not to sure about the BYOAC pimpage action for the cabinet...

Heh, it's a cool visual design regardless.  But it will also take an actual quarter as well as any of the tokens Santoro has had made.

The recess can be fitted with whatever you like.  I will be looking at different things to fill it as time goes on.  If the BYOAC tokens aren't your thing, you will be able to order it without and you can fill the recess with whatever you like.

RandyT

[FrizzleFried]

Loosen the knob with the included tool.  Raising lowers the resistance and lowering increases it.

How does the resistance work?  Is there something on the bottom of the spinner that,  when rubbing against the underside,  creates the resistance?

If the BYOAC tokens aren't your thing, you will be able to order it without and you can fill the recess with whatever you like.

Don't get me wrong...they do look nice...but to have the option to put whatever you would like in there is simply kickass.

You say that the weight isn't required with the knob,  how is the "feel" with both the knob and weight?

Thanks!

[KevSteele]

Looks like I'm going to have to order one of these for my GameRoom/RetroBlast tokens!

I'm intrigued by the functionality, especially the resistance.

[whammoed]

Loosen the knob with the included tool.  Raising lowers the resistance and lowering increases it.

I too must know more.  Are we talking friction with the flange of the spinner and the bottom of the knob?
Is the knob attached with a set screw, and if so do you have to remove the rubber band to get to it?

[RandyT]

Loosen the knob with the included tool.  Raising lowers the resistance and lowering increases it.

I too must know more.  Are we talking friction with the flange of the spinner and the bottom of the knob? 

You'll have to wait for actual users to give their reports on it after they get theirs and start using it.   Too much potential for uninformed speculation.

Is the knob attached with a set screw, and if so do you have to remove the rubber band to get to it?

There is very discreet hole for access to the set screw.  It's smaller than the tool that goes into it.  That's one of the nice things about rubber.

RandyT

[whammoed]

You'll have to wait for actual users to give their reports on it after they get theirs and start using it.   Too much potential for uninformed speculation.

Don't be silly, that never happens does it? 

There is very discreet hole for access to the set screw.  It's smaller than the tool that goes into it.  That's one of the nice things about rubber.

RandyT

Ah, clever.

[Kremmit]

The token recess on top of those knobs could be filled with clear epoxy, lacquer, or similar.  Just add your custom-printed graphics or whatever first, then pour the epoxy on top.

Or, maybe somebody can find clear, blank dome labels that measure .984"?  You know, like the ones they use on computer case badges or those groovy car keychains there's always a rack of?

[RandyT]

The token recess on top of those knobs could be filled with clear epoxy, lacquer, or similar.  Just add your custom-printed graphics or whatever first, then pour the epoxy on top.

Interesting thought.

Or, maybe somebody can find clear, blank dome labels that measure .984"?  You know, like the ones they use on computer case badges or those groovy car keychains there's always a rack of?

This is the route I was thinking.  However, finding the right size will probably be impossible.  I wonder what a custom run of those would cost?  (...off to scour the web)

RandyT

[Kremmit]

They're not outrageous if you want a decent-size run of just one design, and I think they will do them in whatever size/shape you want.  What I don't know is if there's anybody that will sell you a plain, clear dome that you can bond to custom, one-off artwork.

[RandyT]

They're not outrageous if you want a decent-size run of just one design, and I think they will do them in whatever size/shape you want.  What I don't know is if there's anybody that will sell you a plain, clear dome that you can bond to custom, one-off artwork.

Ok, not so hard to find them....hard to decide on a couple of universally appealing designs though.....any suggestions?

BTW, I came up dry on the "blank" domes.  That doesn't seem too promising, but I'll keep my eyes open.


RandyT

[Tiger-Heli]

Cool knobs - YOU can't be at a loss for ideas - I know you're just fishing for input to align your ideas with the mainstream customers!!!

Ok, not so hard to find them....hard to decide on a couple of universally appealing designs though.....any suggestions?

What is considered a practical order on this?  (i.e. is it a minimum of 100 so you could maybe keep 10 different designs, or is it a 10000, minimum, so you need to pick the best and only carry one style?)

Invert your invaders design - i.e. instead of a blue invader on a brushed metal background, a Silver Invader on a black background.
The MAME logo in silver on a black background - if you can get past Trademark issues.
The Arkanoid logo (Arkanoid text in same font as Marquee), again silver on black - possible copyright.
Same with Tempest.
The Vaus from arkanoid with a ball coming towards it, in silver.
The little yellow C-shaped thing from tempest, in silver or yellow with a black background.
The tempest screen (C-shaped thing and tunnel lines and red polygons), either in 4-color on black or silver on black.

"Mommy this machine ate 14,000 of my quarters!"

[JoyMonkey]

How about a label saying 'Twist to open'. That'll really confuse the party guests.

[JMB]

• No ESC Required - The Energy Storage Cylinder is no longer required for prolonged spin when you use the TokenTop knob.  Reduces the vertical footprint of the TurboTwist 2 to an amazing 1.5" below 3/4" wood panels with no spinner performance penalty!

RandyT

Doh!  Any discount if you already purchased the ESC?

[markrvp]

How about a label saying 'Twist to open'. That'll really confuse the party guests.

I don't care who you are, that's funny right there!   

[Kaytrim]

Ok, not so hard to find them....hard to decide on a couple of universally appealing designs though.....any suggestions?

Well there is one that shouldn't need mentioning but I'll do it anyway, the Groovy Game Gear logo or GGG for simplicity. 

How about a label saying 'Twist to open'. That'll really confuse the party guests.

I don't care who you are, that's funny right there!   

I have to agree this would be a hoot at parties. 

[FrizzleFried]

I think one of those psychadelic spiral things that when you spin it it looks like you are flying down a tunnel would be cool...

[RandyT]

Heh.  Thanks for all of the suggestions.  PoDunkMoFo set me straight on how these are done, so I think I'm going to tool up for and do them myself.  I already have a digital printer / vinyl cutter, so if I set up with the rest of it, the possibilities will be endless.  Might even find some other cool uses for the stuff once I get rolling.

Thanks,
RandyT

[Fozzy The Bear]

I think I'm going to tool up for and do them myself. 

Excellent!! Does that mean we can order custom designs for them??  Not trying to make your life difficult Randy honest I'm not.. 

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[rockin_rick]

Randy, which knob would you recommend for Arkanoid?

By the end of next week there will be a knob available that I expect will be better for this type of game than any other knob prior to it. 

Is the token knob the knob you were referring to in this post?

Rick

[RandyT]

Is the token knob the knob you were referring to in this post?

Yes.  The variable resistance and overall feel of the knob make it especially suitable for Arkanoid-style games.


RandyT

[Kremmit]

Heh.  Thanks for all of the suggestions.  PoDunkMoFo set me straight on how these are done, so I think I'm going to tool up for and do them myself.  I already have a digital printer / vinyl cutter, so if I set up with the rest of it, the possibilities will be endless.  Might even find some other cool uses for the stuff once I get rolling.

Thanks,
RandyT

Sweet!

[Time Pilot]

Randy, this is one cool spinner!

Could you be more specific on what needs to be done to connect a trackball to the new OptiWiz (specifically a Happ).  You mentioned popping a resistor across the data lines before the trackball is connected.  What would the recommended resistor values be?  It would be fantastic to use the Spinner on Z and the Trackball on X/Y- it would replace my serial Opti-Pac and my problem of mouse IDs switching would be solved.  So many problems solved at once makes the TT2 cheap! 

Wohooo!

[Havok]

Invert your invaders design - i.e. instead of a blue invader on a brushed metal background, a Silver Invader on a black background.

I second that one !!!

[RayB]

Randy, this is one cool spinner!

Could you be more specific on what needs to be done to connect a trackball to the new OptiWiz (specifically a Happ).  You mentioned popping a resistor across the data lines before the trackball is connected.  What would the recommended resistor values be?  It would be fantastic to use the Spinner on Z and the Trackball on X/Y- it would replace my serial Opti-Pac and my problem of mouse IDs switching would be solved.  So many problems solved at once makes the TT2 cheap! 

Wohooo!

Should be a whole new thread.

[RandyT]

Could you be more specific on what needs to be done to connect a trackball to the new OptiWiz (specifically a Happ).  You mentioned popping a resistor across the data lines before the trackball is connected.  What would the recommended resistor values be?  It would be fantastic to use the Spinner on Z and the Trackball on X/Y- it would replace my serial Opti-Pac and my problem of mouse IDs switching would be solved.  So many problems solved at once makes the TT2 cheap! 

The resistor thing was before I did any trackball testing with the modified hardware.  I tried both an Atari and Betson/Imperial trackball and they work fine on the Master board with no modifications.  I haven't specifically tried the HAPP, so I can't say for sure.  But I have high expectations

RandyT

[nostrebor]

Could you be more specific on what needs to be done to connect a trackball to the new OptiWiz (specifically a Happ).  You mentioned popping a resistor across the data lines before the trackball is connected.  What would the recommended resistor values be?  It would be fantastic to use the Spinner on Z and the Trackball on X/Y- it would replace my serial Opti-Pac and my problem of mouse IDs switching would be solved.  So many problems solved at once makes the TT2 cheap! 

The resistor thing was before I did any trackball testing with the modified hardware.  I tried both an Atari and Betson/Imperial trackball and they work fine on the Master board with no modifications.  I haven't specifically tried the HAPP, so I can't say for sure.  But I have high expectations

RandyT

I was getting ready to ask this myself...

Thanks for checking them out for us!

[PoDunkMoFo]

Is there really a better reason to have a spinner?

[RandyT]

Is there really a better reason to have a spinner?

Very nice.  May I ? 

RandyT

[patrickl]

looks great! Or maybe the Tron spinner (picture from arcadeshop)

[PoDunkMoFo]

Very nice.  May I ? 

RandyT

Sure.  I will send you the file.

[Fozzy The Bear]

Is there really a better reason to have a spinner?

Very nice.  May I ? 

RandyT

Oh Yes Guys!!!! Please do it!!! Forget custom artwork from me... That's what I want on the top of my spinner... That is so good.

Just out of curiosity, Randy, Would this also fit in the top of Big Blue??

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[RandyT]

Just out of curiosity, Randy, Would this also fit in the top of Big Blue??

If I can pull this off, just about anything will be possible.  (umm..that didn't sound like I meant it to)

RandyT

[PoDunkMoFo]

O.K. Not that Im' a fan but......

Looks like nothing gets done at work today.

[PoDunkMoFo]

Ooops double post

[tetsu96]

That's certainly a nice looking piece of equipment.  Give a shout on the thread if we should wait until you update the ordering page for the token knobs or if we should just go ahead and order away.  I'm already sold on it.

[Encryptor]

Randy,

There is someone here that sells vinyl labels. His name is MikeDeuce. He also sells the clear discs pictured below. They are made to go inside a standard happs button. I'm not sure what size they are but if this is something like you are looking for earlier in this thread as a clear dome maybe you can ask him where he gets the ones he sells. Just a thought.


Encryptor

[Kremmit]

I'd be willing to bet those discs come from Tap Plastics.  They don't come in .984, though.

[Santoro]

As you scour the web you should know that .984" = 25mm. Does Tap have 25mm discs?

[JoyMonkey]

I can machine 0.984 discs from clear acrylic but the surface would be perfectly flat, not domed like the cast discs. I could make them thinner than the ones TAP sells though.

I'll check what thicknesses I've got lying around on Monday.

[Kremmit]

As you scour the web you should know that .984" = 25mm. Does Tap have 25mm discs?

As you scour the web you should know that you can check at www.tapplastics.com. 

(And no, they don't- standard imperial sizes only.  Too bad, the cabochons might be just what we're looking for.  Wonder if they can do a special run?)

[RandyT]

Thanks for all of the suggestions.  I have all the equipment for doming the decals on order. 

I also have 3 vinyl cutters, one of which is over 50" and prints as well, and a 36" art reproduction quality inkjet.  So I have the "medium" end pretty well covered 

The discs are an interesting find, but I don't think they will compare to domed ones.  Give me until after Christmas, and I expect there will be plenty of options for decorating the spinner tops.

RandyT

[RandyT]

That's certainly a nice looking piece of equipment.  Give a shout on the thread if we should wait until you update the ordering page for the token knobs or if we should just go ahead and order away.  I'm already sold on it.

For those who have been waiting, the TokenTop™ knobs are now available at the store.

Linkage


RandyT

[Santoro]

Randy,  Just a marketing suggestion, I found that sometimes people were hesitant to buy tokens because the photographs and bling didn't give a good feeling of what the tokens actually looked like.  You might have the same problem.  I comissioned Markrvp to do some professional photos of the tokens for me, and they came out great. You might want to provide a 'token detail' photo for reference.  You can steal this one if you like.

I know most all BYOACers are familiar with the 2004 tokens by now, but any n00bs that visit your site might have this problem.

Also, how easy is it to replace the tokens?  Should I expect a zillion requests for single tokens now? 

(Oh, and check your PM.)

[Donkey_Kong]

That's certainly a nice looking piece of equipment.  Give a shout on the thread if we should wait until you update the ordering page for the token knobs or if we should just go ahead and order away.  I'm already sold on it.

For those who have been waiting, the TokenTop™ knobs are now available at the store.

Linkage


RandyT

Ok Randy...they look sweet!! Order #3093 please add The Blk Knob W/ Nickel option...THXS!!

[edge]

Randy - you have been a busy little elf. 

[JoyMonkey]

One question; how easy is it to pop out the token and put in another one?

[tetsu96]

Heh - just ordered the spinner and knob w/ the Brass token, but the Nickel token looks awfully classy too...  should have an option to include both tokens w/ the spinner (or do you epoxy / etc the things in there?).  I wouldn't be upset if a spare Nickel token fell into order #3098 right before you boxed it up, but I'm sure they'll both look good on a live cabinet.

Looking forward to it Randy.

[RandyT]

One question; how easy is it to pop out the token and put in another one?

Not.  If you think this would be desirable, make sure you request that the token be included loosely so you can use your own methods for keeping it in the knob.  I use a pencil eraser sized spot of superglue gel.  It could probably be removed by putting the knob in the freezer overnight and then blasting the center of the token with a torch.  Should flex the metal enough to pop it loose, but I'm not trying it. 

RandyT

[JoyMonkey]

Good to know. I think I'll order a naked knob (forgive the pun) and use a small dab of silicone to keep a token on there.

[Derrick Renaud]

Randy,

When not using your Opti-Wiz based board, can the Red/Black wires be directly connected to 5V?  Or do they need a resistor in-line.

I am assuming no.  That there already is a resistor in the spinner housing.

Thanks,
D.

[RandyT]

When not using your Opti-Wiz based board, can the Red/Black wires be directly connected to 5V?  Or do they need a resistor in-line.

You assume correctly.  They can be connected directly to 5v.

RandyT

[Donkey_Kong]

Santa came early...looks like someone was a good boy this year!

Arrival was QUICK and contents all accounted for perfectly. Special requests...umm yep! Now if they could just magically mount themselves to my un-built CP...

Thanks GGG...Merry X-mas to ALL!!

Dang do you SEE  that BYOAC token...inside of that knob!
That is 'HIGH CLASS' my friend. I'm truly... But what the heck eh.

[JoyMonkey]

Mine arrived safely today too! Going to give it a quick try in my test CP now...
 

[FrizzleFried]

I am VERY interested in how the knobs "Accu-Twist™" feature works...

[tranq]

Mmmm, that looks nice.  As for mounting the coin, you know those sticky gels they use to keep laminated pamphlets together?  They're pretty sticky, and considering there won't be any sideways force on it, it shouldn't move....wait! - maybe a magnet underneath?

[Santoro]

I don't think Brass is magnetic. (the nickel tokens are nickel plated brass.)

[mrbones]

Can the Turbotwist 2 be plugged into a Minipac from Ultimarc? Maybe the slave version, perhaps? I ask because I already have the Minipac and don't need another interface board.

[FrizzleFried]

Is anyone else having problems with their TT2 coming loose?  I have really cranked down with a button wrench (requiring me to remove the weight to do so)...and again,  I found my TT2 starting to loosen up last night.   Standard 3/4" wood CP... not sure whats up.   I may try a different "nut" this time.

[squirrellydw]

I havn't used mine yet since my cocktail table isn't done but I think you could always use a little locktite on the threads.

[FrizzleFried]

Yah...locktite is looking more and more appealing.  I really screwed it on bigtime this time...we will see if it loosens up...

[squirrellydw]

Just remember to use the BLUE Locktite and NOT the RED.  I think the RED is permanent.

[RandyT]

Is anyone else having problems with their TT2 coming loose?  I have really cranked down with a button wrench (requiring me to remove the weight to do so)...and again,  I found my TT2 starting to loosen up last night.   Standard 3/4" wood CP... not sure whats up.   I may try a different "nut" this time.

Is this from use with the steering wheel or just the standard knob?

The hole in your panel may be a little too sloppy and allow the spinner body to shift laterally and cause the nut to loosen.  If this is the case, you can wrap a few layers of electrical tape around the body of the spinner so it better fits the hole in your panel.  If it can't shift, there's no way for it to loosen.

Also make sure you don't twist the nut down too tight.  It's possible that it was torqued so tightly that the nut expanded to the point where it almost popped to the next thread, and finally did so over time.  If you think this might be the problem, and you'll know if it does it again, you might want to use a new nut and just snug it the next time.

I can't say what could have caused it without being there, but these are a couple of things for you to consider.

RandyT

[mrbones]

Can the Turbotwist 2 be plugged into a Minipac from Ultimarc? Maybe the slave version, perhaps? I ask because I already have the Minipac and don't need another interface board.

[RandyT]

Can the Turbotwist 2 be plugged into a Minipac from Ultimarc? Maybe the slave version, perhaps? I ask because I already have the Minipac and don't need another interface board.

Sorry, I don't own one and therefore cannot test this combination.  It should physically work, but I can't make any promises about performance or other possible issues one might have.

RandyT

[FrizzleFried]

My hole was cut with a 1.125" hole saw...but perhaps there is a little play in there a bit...if it comes lose again I will try the tape route... I am using the spinner as a spinner.    Just "big blue" attached and the weight of course.

Since the last "crank down" I have yet to feel any movement...

Thanks Randy...

[Donkey_Kong]

Hi all-

If you have contemplated this product for whatever reason...MAYBE my review could help you decide. MAYBE!!


DONKEY KONG'S REVIEW of the TT2...Enter at your own risk!!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62443.msg620104#msg620104

[rubberpoultry]

Is the steering wheel still available? I couldn't find it on the site.

[Kaytrim]

Look at the middle of this page.
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=86&products_id=268

[Space Fractal]

Is it any reseller in EU who have this spinner, so I can avoid to pay a roughly high toll in Denmark (EU) (40% to total price+11$ fee)? I hope arcadeshop.de or such in the  future add GGG as a vendor.

This is the only reason why I diddent order yet.

So Randy, I hope you start a business in EU (like in UK).

[Level42]

Is it any reseller in EU who have this spinner, so I can avoid to pay a roughly high toll in Denmark (EU) (40% to total price+11$ fee)? I hope arcadeshop.de or such in the  future add GGG as a vendor.

This is the only reason why I diddent order yet.

So Randy, I hope you start a business in EU (like in UK).

Maybe you can have it sent as a gift.......just an idea

[squirrellydw]

 

[rockin_rick]

Does the spinner perform EXACTLY the same (IOW with the same resolution/update speed) on the Z-axis as it does on the X or Y?

I tested it a bit (in USB mode) with Tempest and found that I need to cut the sensitivity down to 3% to match the 6% used when on the X-axis.  This would seem to imply that something is different with the Z-axis and the TT2 (or opti-wiz).  Maybe the scaling is different?  Is there any difference (regarding Z-axis performance) between PS/2 and USB modes?

Of course, the reason for the Z-axis is the ability to add a trackball to the opti-wiz.  If the spinner works on the Z-axis 100% as good as it does on the X-axis, then that certainly adds value to the TT2.

Rick

[Kaytrim]

Does the spinner perform EXACTLY the same (IOW with the same resolution/update speed) on the Z-axis as it does on the X or Y?

I tested it a bit (in USB mode) with Tempest and found that I need to cut the sensitivity down to 3% to match the 6% used when on the X-axis.  This would seem to imply that something is different with the Z-axis and the TT2 (or opti-wiz).  Maybe the scaling is different?  Is there any difference (regarding Z-axis performance) between PS/2 and USB modes?

Of course, the reason for the Z-axis is the ability to add a trackball to the opti-wiz.  If the spinner works on the Z-axis 100% as good as it does on the X-axis, then that certainly adds value to the TT2.

Rick

The problem is not with the spinner it is with Windows.  Go to the control panel and look for the Mouse Properties and open it.  Look at the wheel tab for your mouse properties the default setting will be 3 lines at a time for each click of the wheel.  This is your Z axis.  This property intercepts the action of the Z axis and sends 3 times the amount to any program listening to it.  If you set this option to 1 line then you will have the same performance as if the spinner was on the X or Y axis. 

TTFN 
Kaytrim

[rockin_rick]

I tried this.  It was initially on 3, and I tried setting it to 1 and 10 and there was no difference in Tempest.

Rick

[RandyT]

Kaytrim is correct in that it is a Windows "thing".  There have been custom MAME builds to address this, and the topic has surfaced a couple times here, including what needs to be done to the MAME code to counter the Windows translation.

The Z-axis is treated the same as the the other two as far as the hardware is concerned.

RandyT

[DoctorWHO]

I'd like to buy it, but I see there's no shipping to Italy...

[Fozzy The Bear]

I'd like to buy it, but I see there's no shipping to Italy...

 

Don't worry!! E-Mail Randy at Groovy Game Gear.... I'm sure it's an ovesight in his checkout system. I've no doubt he'll be happy to help you here. His customer service is great!!

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[DoctorWHO]

Thanks for the tip. Sent email to Randy. Hope to hear from him soon. 

[Derrick Renaud]

Kaytrim is correct in that it is a Windows "thing".  There have been custom MAME builds to address this, and the topic has surfaced a couple times here, including what needs to be done to the MAME code to counter the Windows translation.

Ummmm...

This has already been addressed in windows MAME for quite some time.

MAME divides the scroll wheel count by 30.   So if you set the sensitivity to 25% then 1 wheel click = 1 MAME optical count.

[RandyT]

Kaytrim is correct in that it is a Windows "thing".  There have been custom MAME builds to address this, and the topic has surfaced a couple times here, including what needs to be done to the MAME code to counter the Windows translation.

This has already been addressed in windows MAME for quite some time.

MAME divides the scroll wheel count by 30.   So if you set the sensitivity to 25% then 1 wheel click = 1 MAME optical count.

I went back through our discussion and found this:

MAME 110u5 is out with the Mouse Z fix

And also re-read where you stated that under XP it has worked before that version.  Many thanks for your work on this.

But my comments were also based on the idea that not everyone uses the latest builds, and a modded or at least recent version (as you pointed out) will be necessary for best utilization of the Z.  Sorry if it looked like I was talking about the current official distribution.

RandyT

[Tiger-Heli]

Randy, you beat me to the answer, but I did a Google search and it was indeed 110u5.  You can read the details here: http://www.mame.net/whatsnew.html

The info for previous builds (0.84 and up) is here: http://www.powermame.com/pmwiki.php?n=Features.Z-axisFix

[Derrick Renaud]

No problem Randy.

Just want to make sure everyone was aware of the change to the Z axis.

BTW has anyone tried using their spinner for Asteroids yet?  Mouse axis are now selectable as button input in the latest MAME.

D.

[RandyT]

Another "Updated Info" bump:

For those who haven't noticed, The Mini-Racers have been revised due to supply issues with the original style.

As a result, we can now offer 3 different sizes.  The original 5", as well as a 6" and 7" version.  The bigger wheels look just like the small ones but are larger (who'd have guessed  )  Exact dimensions are included in a table at the site.

If you have the room on your CP (I don't  ) and can swing the extra cost, the bigger wheels might be a consideration.

RandyT

[Minwah]

BTW has anyone tried using their spinner for Asteroids yet?  Mouse axis are now selectable as button input in the latest MAME.

Cool!  I think there were some other games people have wanted to have this ability, although I can't think of what they were...

[Minwah]

As a result, we can now offer 3 different sizes.  The original 5", as well as a 6" and 7" version.  The bigger wheels look just like the small ones but are larger (who'd have guessed  )  Exact dimensions are included in a table at the site.

If you have the room on your CP (I don't  ) and can swing the extra cost, the bigger wheels might be a consideration.

A 3 player Super Sprint panel enters my head....

[langdoguk]

I'm so deperessed  ,I've just bought the TT2 with the 5" steering wheel two days ago and a 7 " comes out now  .
Would have loved the bigger wheel , just unlucky timing 

[RandyT]

I'm so deperessed  ,I've just bought the TT2 with the 5" steering wheel two days ago and a 7 " comes out now  .
Would have loved the bigger wheel , just unlucky timing 

Don't be depressed   If it's an unused new style, I'll swap it for the difference in price+shipping.  Drop me an email if you are interested.

RandyT

[Arcades R Fun]

We just got in our first 5" Mini-Racer steering wheel from GGG. Tried it last night and it was awesome! Very authentic  in the "feel" and "play" of the wheel.

I think we might have to go for the bigger 7" wheel even if it means changing the default spinner location a bit.

Thnaks Randy! Keep the innovations coming!

[shorthair]

I guess with the insane resolution of the TT2 a 7" wheel might be big enough, eh?

[Tiger-Heli]

BTW has anyone tried using their spinner for Asteroids yet?  Mouse axis are now selectable as button input in the latest MAME.

Sorry for the thread hi-jack.

Does anyone know how to make this work?  I go into "Input-This Game", select "Rotate Left", press Enter, and move the mouse, and "Rotate Left" gets set to "None."

The Mouse works in the trackball and lightgun games,

Using MAME 114.

[u_rebelscum]

BTW has anyone tried using their spinner for Asteroids yet?  Mouse axis are now selectable as button input in the latest MAME.

Does anyone know how to make this work?  I go into "Input-This Game", select "Rotate Left", press Enter, and move the mouse, and "Rotate Left" gets set to "None."

You have to spin it fast and far enough within the second or so you have to remap.  (But not too fast so you get back spin. )  Very much like remapping any mouse axis to a normal analog axis (which seems to work easier on some systems than others).

Works fine on my laptop, except if I try to map a normal mouse or touchpad X axis for example, the Y axis is included with lots of NOT or ORs or ANDs.  Hand editing the cfg file gets rid of the extra Y axis junk.

However, I don't see a way to adjust the speed.

[Tiger-Heli]

I tested on the computer at work.  You have to spin it much faster to assign mouse input to a button, but I got it to work on about my third attempt.  That's good enough, though.

Last question - What I would prefer is for either the Buttons or the Mouse to do Rotation, but I didn't see any way to assign this.

Do you think it's possible?

[u_rebelscum]

Last question - What I would prefer is for either the Buttons or the Mouse to do Rotation, but I didn't see any way to assign this.

Do you think it's possible?

You just like left arrow OR mouse X axis Pos?  This will be a head slapper for you Tiger-Heli  :

It's just like entering multiple OR inputs in mame: enter, press key/button, wait until mame accepts it, enter, spin spinner, wait until mame accepts it, (repeat as needed).

[Tiger-Heli]

You just like left arrow OR mouse X axis Pos?  This will be a head slapper for you Tiger-Heli  :
It's just like entering multiple OR inputs in mame: enter, press key/button, wait until mame accepts it, enter, spin spinner, wait until mame accepts it, (repeat as needed).

Thanks Robin, I tried that earlier.  My work, errmmmn test system does not like reading the mouse inputs at all.

I simplified my earlier response, but when I spun the mouse, my unmodified .cfg file looked like this:

Code: [Select]

<?xml version="1.0"?>
<!-- This file is autogenerated; comments and unknown tags will be stripped -->
<mameconfig version="10">
    <system name="asteroid">
        <input>
            <port type="P1_JOYSTICK_RIGHT" mask="64" index="18" defvalue="0">
                <newseq type="standard">
                    NOT MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_NEG MOUSECODE_1_X_NEG MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_NEG MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_NEG MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS MOUSECODE_1_X_NEG MOUSECODE_1_Y_NEG MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_X_NEG
                </newseq>
            </port>
            <port type="P1_JOYSTICK_LEFT" mask="128" index="19" defvalue="0">
                <newseq type="standard">
                    MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS NOT MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_NEG MOUSECODE_1_X_NEG MOUSECODE_1_Y_NEG MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_X_NEG MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS NOT MOUSECODE_1_X_POS
                </newseq>
            </port>
        </input>
    </system>
</mameconfig>

When I tried to map an OR combination, it changed ROTATE LEFT from "mouse gobbledygook" to "Enter", so I asked here, but now that I know it's possible, I'll see if I have any better luck with my home (real) PC.

[u_rebelscum]

My work, errmmmn test system does not like reading the mouse inputs at all.

I simplified my earlier response, but when I spun the mouse, my unmodified .cfg file looked like this:[snip]

When I tried to map an OR combination, it changed ROTATE LEFT from "mouse gobbledygook" to "Enter", so I asked here, but now that I know it's possible, I'll see if I have any better luck with my home (real) PC.

Works fine on my laptop, except if I try to map a normal mouse or touchpad X axis for example, the Y axis is included with lots of NOT or ORs or ANDs.  Hand editing the cfg file gets rid of the extra Y axis junk.

Your example has 15 words per input: the max is 16, and to add a button, you need "OR" & the button.  If the number words goes above 16, mame drops the old settings and just goes with the new.  And 15+2 = 17 > 16, so that's why you lose the mouse inputs.  Did you try it in the order in my reply (key first then mouse)?  Does it make a difference?  (I ask because I usually only get between half to one dozen words when remapping a mouse axis to a digital input, so either order usually works for me.)

[Tiger-Heli]

Thanks Robin - it was much easier to configure on my home system.

The game that I wanted this for was Pirates.  It is supposed to be a joystick game, but the code is a pretty obvious rip of CABAL (the bootleg of CABAL is joystick-based) so I wanted it to play like a trackball game.  It works much better that way, but it makes it a bit too easy.

The code I used allows me to work with my home desktop computer.  The arrow keys or my joystick control panel can also be used.  Or for a quick one player game, I can use the PC mouse (Mouse 1) or for a more serious game my PC USB trackball (Mouse 2) or for a serious 2-player game, Player 1 on the first PC trackball and Player 2 on the second PC trackball (Mouse 3).

Also, I swapped buttons 2 and 3 b/c MAME has 2 as "duck and roll" and 3 as "Grenade" and I thought that was backwards, at least compared to CABAL.

Here's the .cfg file:

Code: [Select]

<?xml version="1.0"?>
<!-- This file is autogenerated; comments and unknown tags will be stripped -->
<mameconfig version="10">
    <system name="pirates">
        <input>
            <port type="P1_JOYSTICK_UP" mask="1" index="1" defvalue="1">
                <newseq type="standard">
                    KEYCODE_UP OR MOUSECODE_1_Y_NEG OR MOUSECODE_2_Y_NEG
                </newseq>
            </port>
            <port type="P1_JOYSTICK_DOWN" mask="2" index="2" defvalue="2">
                <newseq type="standard">
                    KEYCODE_DOWN OR MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS OR MOUSECODE_2_Y_POS
                </newseq>
            </port>
            <port type="P1_JOYSTICK_LEFT" mask="4" index="3" defvalue="4">
                <newseq type="standard">
                    KEYCODE_LEFT OR MOUSECODE_1_X_NEG OR MOUSECODE_2_X_NEG
                </newseq>
            </port>
            <port type="P1_JOYSTICK_RIGHT" mask="8" index="4" defvalue="8">
                <newseq type="standard">
                    KEYCODE_RIGHT OR MOUSECODE_1_X_POS OR MOUSECODE_2_X_POS
                </newseq>
            </port>
            <port type="P1_BUTTON1" mask="16" index="5" defvalue="16">
                <newseq type="standard">
                    KEYCODE_LCONTROL OR MOUSECODE_1_BUTTON1
                </newseq>
            </port>
            <port type="P1_BUTTON2" mask="32" index="6" defvalue="32">
                <newseq type="standard">
                    KEYCODE_SPACE OR MOUSECODE_1_BUTTON3
                </newseq>
            </port>
            <port type="P1_BUTTON3" mask="64" index="7" defvalue="64">
                <newseq type="standard">
                    KEYCODE_LALT OR MOUSECODE_1_BUTTON2
                </newseq>
            </port>
            <port type="P2_JOYSTICK_UP" mask="256" index="9" defvalue="256">
                <newseq type="standard">
                    KEYCODE_R OR MOUSECODE_3_Y_NEG
                </newseq>
            </port>
            <port type="P2_JOYSTICK_DOWN" mask="512" index="10" defvalue="512">
                <newseq type="standard">
                    KEYCODE_F OR MOUSECODE_3_Y_POS
                </newseq>
            </port>
            <port type="P2_JOYSTICK_LEFT" mask="1024" index="11" defvalue="1024">
                <newseq type="standard">
                    KEYCODE_D OR MOUSECODE_3_X_NEG
                </newseq>
            </port>
            <port type="P2_JOYSTICK_RIGHT" mask="2048" index="12" defvalue="2048">
                <newseq type="standard">
                    KEYCODE_G OR MOUSECODE_3_X_POS
                </newseq>
            </port>
            <port type="P2_BUTTON2" mask="8192" index="14" defvalue="8192">
                <newseq type="standard">
                    KEYCODE_Q
                </newseq>
            </port>
            <port type="P2_BUTTON3" mask="16384" index="15" defvalue="16384">
                <newseq type="standard">
                    KEYCODE_S
                </newseq>
            </port>
        </input>
    </system>
</mameconfig>


Your example has 15 words per input: the max is 16, and to add a button, you need "OR" & the button.  If the number words goes above 16, mame drops the old settings and just goes with the new.  And 15+2 = 17 > 16, so that's why you lose the mouse inputs. 

Wow - I never would have realized that!!!

Did you try it in the order in my reply (key first then mouse)? 

Not on the work computer.  I did try that on the home computer, although on the home computer - I basically ended up spinning ANY mouse to get the directionals assigned to something other than default (so they showed up in the pirates.cfg file) and then hand-editing the file to what I wanted (once I could see how the format was structured).

Does it make a difference?  (I ask because I usually only get between half to one dozen words when remapping a mouse axis to a digital input, so either order usually works for me.)

I'm not sure if it would have made a difference or not.  Now that you explained the problem, I think I might have ended up with only the button input if I moved the mouse first, and only the mouse gobbledy-gook if I input the button first.

Although I think you hit it correctly with your initial reply:

You have to spin it fast and far enough within the second or so you have to remap.  (But not too fast so you get back spin. )  Very much like remapping any mouse axis to a normal analog axis (which seems to work easier on some systems than others).

At first, I was not spinning it fast enough to register, so nothing was added.

Spin it too FAR and you get MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_X_POS ...

Spin it too fast or not quite in a straight line, and you get all the NEG inputs, NOT codes, and Y-Axis stuff.

With practice on the home computer, I actually got it to register correctly "MOUSECODE_3_Y_NEG" only ONCE, and I suspect experience explains why you only got about 6 words and I was getting 15.

Since we're looking at curiosity things, do you have any idea what the various

Code: [Select]

mask="16384" index="15" defvalue="16384"etc. values mean?

[u_rebelscum]

Thanks Robin - it was much easier to configure on my home system.

The game that I wanted this for was Pirates.  It is supposed to be a joystick game, but the code is a pretty obvious rip of CABAL (the bootleg of CABAL is joystick-based) so I wanted it to play like a trackball game.  It works much better that way, but it makes it a bit too easy.

I'll have to try that game.  I tested on scrolling games (rastan) and control wasn't good.

You have to spin it fast and far enough within the second or so you have to remap.  (But not too fast so you get back spin. )  Very much like remapping any mouse axis to a normal analog axis (which seems to work easier on some systems than others).

At first, I was not spinning it fast enough to register, so nothing was added.

Spin it too FAR and you get MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_X_POS ...

Spin it too fast or not quite in a straight line, and you get all the NEG inputs, NOT codes, and Y-Axis stuff.

With practice on the home computer, I actually got it to register correctly "MOUSECODE_3_Y_NEG" only ONCE, and I suspect experience explains why you only got about 6 words and I was getting 15.

That makes sense.  But to be able to hit the speed perfectly?

Since we're looking at curiosity things, do you have any idea what the various

Code: [Select]

mask="16384" index="15" defvalue="16384"etc. values mean?

Index is which number of the input "port" in the driver's input port input list.
Mask is which bit (or bits which analog) is changed.
Defvalue is the default value if nothing is pushed.  (for digital single bit inputs, it's either the same as mask ("active low") or zero ("active high"); spinner & trackball have no (zero) default; analog joystick & lightgun usually default in the center of the range; pedals are usually the mask or zero)

They are game specific, and ignored if copied into default.cfg or a ctrlr file.

Example from marble madness:
snip from cfg/marble.cfg:

Code: [Select]

<port type="P1_TRACKBALL_X" mask="255" index="1" defvalue="0">
<port type="P1_TRACKBALL_Y" mask="255" index="3" defvalue="0">
<port type="P2_TRACKBALL_X" mask="255" index="5" defvalue="0">
<port type="P2_TRACKBALL_Y" mask="255" index="7" defvalue="0">
<port type="START1" mask="1" index="9" defvalue="1">
<port type="START2" mask="2" index="10" defvalue="2">
<port type="COIN1" mask="1" index="21" defvalue="1">
<port type="COIN2" mask="2" index="22" defvalue="2">
<port type="COIN3" mask="4" index="23" defvalue="4">
snip from /src/mame/drivers/atarisy1.c:

Code: [Select]

INPUT_PORTS_START( marble )
0 PORT_START  /* F20000 */
1    PORT_BIT( 0xff, 0x00, IPT_TRACKBALL_X ) ... PORT_PLAYER(1)

2 PORT_START  /* F20002 */
3    PORT_BIT( 0xff, 0x00, IPT_TRACKBALL_Y ) ... PORT_PLAYER(1)

4 PORT_START  /* F20004 */
5    PORT_BIT( 0xff, 0x00, IPT_TRACKBALL_X ) ... PORT_PLAYER(2)

6 PORT_START  /* F20006 */
7    PORT_BIT( 0xff, 0x00, IPT_TRACKBALL_Y ) ... PORT_PLAYER(2)

8 PORT_START /* F60000 */
9 PORT_BIT( 0x0001, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_START1 )
10 PORT_BIT( 0x0002, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_START2 )
11 PORT_BIT( 0x0004, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_UNUSED )
12 PORT_BIT( 0x0008, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_UNUSED )
13 PORT_BIT( 0x0010, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_VBLANK )
14 PORT_BIT( 0x0020, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_UNUSED )
15 PORT_SERVICE( 0x0040, IP_ACTIVE_LOW )
16 PORT_BIT( 0x0080, IP_ACTIVE_HIGH, IPT_SPECIAL )
17 PORT_BIT( 0xff00, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_UNUSED )
...
Notice the index # matches the number I added to the driver code, the mask = the hex number right after "PORT_BIT( ####" except in decimal.

[jace055]

Another "Updated Info" bump:

For those who haven't noticed, The Mini-Racers have been revised due to supply issues with the original style.

As a result, we can now offer 3 different sizes.  The original 5", as well as a 6" and 7" version.  The bigger wheels look just like the small ones but are larger (who'd have guessed  )  Exact dimensions are included in a table at the site.

If you have the room on your CP (I don't  ) and can swing the extra cost, the bigger wheels might be a consideration.

RandyT

Randy,

I would love to see a picture with all three wheel sizes next to each other with something in the pic for a size comparison. I have seen the table at GGG with the sizes but I can't seem to grasp the size differences. 

From reading the entire thread, it looks like alot of the people with the 5" wheel wish they bought the 7".

Thanks in advance

[zedhead]

Hi all...just to confirm, if I would like to have 2 spinners (and two 5" wheels) and want to be able to use them both at the same time (with 2 players), I would purchase one TT2 (master) and one TT2 slave (plus the 2 wheel addons)? How about if you wanted to run 3 or 4 spinners (with wheels) would the extra spinners be slaves or would you need another master?

Thanks for any insight you can provide.

cheers,

Zed

[RandyT]

Hi all...just to confirm, if I would like to have 2 spinners (and two 5" wheels) and want to be able to use them both at the same time (with 2 players), I would purchase one TT2 (master) and one TT2 slave (plus the 2 wheel addons)? How about if you wanted to run 3 or 4 spinners (with wheels) would the extra spinners be slaves or would you need another master?

Each TT2 Master can support up to 3 spinners.  However, one must be aware of any possible MAME / OS limitations on the Z-Axis sensitivity.  If you are going for 4 wheels, you'll need 2 Master Units anyway (X and Y axes on both units), so that would be the best solution for that configuration.

RandyT

[zedhead]

Thanks Randy, I just placed my order for two spinners and two 5" wheels.

cheers! 

[kronic24601]

so ... any 9" wheels coming out anytime soon?