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Bella's Arcade [FINISHED]
javeryh:
--- Quote from: leapinlew on November 21, 2006, 11:01:20 am ---Option 1: If your using a metal cp, just lay it over the bezel and wrap the happs vinyl over it. Thats how they are at the arcade.
It won't give you that single plane your looking for but it would be tons easier and more authentic.
Option 2: Don't create a metal CP and just use 1 big sheet of MDF to do both the CP and the Bezel. User your router and set the depth to 3/16" and drop in the smoked plexi in the hole you cut.
Thats all I could think of.
--- End quote ---
Thanks!!! You actually made me come up with this:
I think I am going to try a modified version of your Option 2. I'm going to use 3 pieces of MDF - one to frame the monitor and the two will be glued together at a right angle for the control panel. I'm going to wrap the control panel in vinyl (including the top and bottom edges) and then butt it up against the MDF monitor frame but offset 1/4" (3/16" for the glass and 1/16" for the posterboard bezel. I have a biscuit joiner so I am going to reinforce the butt joint with biscuits - I'll cut them right through the vinyl that I wrap around.
What do you think? The only part that I think will be tough is the bottom panel of the CP - I'm going to have to cut it at a weird angle to meet the middle support piece nicely.
Thoughts anyone?
EDIT: Mock-up attached. The CP and bezel panel/monitor frame are going to be offset by 1/4" - 5/16" to accomodate the thickness of the glass and posterboard. Do you think the joint will hold? I'm thinking I need to add some interior CP support pieces to brace everything...
Also, that "weird angled joint" is going to be extremely difficult for me to cut without a table saw.
theCoder:
What if you went with one piece of MDF, routed a pocket for the glass, cut a large hole for the control panel, then router a pocket in the backside to drop a modular CP into. Similar in nature to how you will be mounting the LCD, also mount the CP from the bottom. Just an idea...
javeryh:
--- Quote from: theCoder on November 22, 2006, 04:17:31 pm ---What if you went with one piece of MDF, routed a pocket for the glass, cut a large hole for the control panel, then router a pocket in the backside to drop a modular CP into. Similar in nature to how you will be mounting the LCD, also mount the CP from the bottom. Just an idea...
--- End quote ---
Hmmm... I'm not sure what you mean by routing a pocket for the CP. I am going to be making a hole to frame the monitor but towards the front the CP is going to have to touch both sides. Maybe a quick pic would make things clearer for me (I'm slow ;D).
Thanks!
javeryh:
I want to scream. I spent 4 hours yesterday working on the cabinet and didn't glue a single piece in place. I did cut a lot of pieces though and I am ready for a glue up today (I hope). I cut the panels to frame the coin door opening and I cut the top marquee piece (which I can't install until I get the computer speakers and the marquee light in place because I won't be able to get my hands in there once the top pice is in place).
I am having a bit of a problem regarding the coin door panel. Here goes:
I am hinging the panel that my coin door is on. I framed out the opening using .75" thick MDF so I can mount the hinges and so it has something to close up against. I guess this is really a cabinet-making question but how wide should the door be? I want to give the illusion as best as possible that the coin door panel does not move but if the door is as wide as the opening it will not pivot on the hinge (it is pretty snug right now). How much is customary to shave off of each side? The hinges I bought are the kind that you have to use a forstner bit to cut out a circle in the door in order to mount (so the panel opens the entire width of the opening)...
Any help would be great! Thanks!!
MinerAl:
Cut the inside edge of the "knob end" at a bevel so that, when closed, the outside edge is flush, but while opening the inside edge doesn't bind. A round-over or just a simple angle will accomplish this.
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