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T-Molding Back & Bottom?
MameJunkie:
The price difference is minor...20' for $14 or 40' for $21.
The major concern is that i'm going to be putting it in after i'm done with the painting and major construction.
I've never did it before...worry about messing it up. So if I do less...less likely to phuck it up.
vorghagen:
In that case it might be an idea to do it all the way round starting with the back and bottom. Use it as a practise run for the front and top, then if you do phuck it up (not likely since t-molding is reasonably easy to install) then it's hidden from plain view.
Fozzy The Bear:
--- Quote from: MameJunkie on October 31, 2006, 11:50:04 pm ---I've never did it before...worry about messing it up. So if I do less...less likely to phuck it up.
--- End quote ---
Ermmm No not really...... It's not difficult to do, but you really should be cutting the slot to take it, long before you paint the cabinet! otherwise you'll damage your paint.
Ideally you should cut the slot for it before you even assemble the cabinet.
Make sure you use the correct slot cutting bit in your router, and set the router correctly to get it lined up in the middle of the edge. Other than that, it's just a case of tapping it into the slot with a mallet. You really can't go wrong here.
Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
Wade:
--- Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on October 31, 2006, 09:17:44 pm ---It really depends on the look you're after.... some cabinets like Defender or Point Blank really need T-Molding all round because of sloping tops or curved bottom edges etc etc... it depends on your design.
--- End quote ---
Actually, Defender doesn't have molding on the back or bottom... Neither does any Williams from the early 80's (all plywood) or any Midway from the early 80s (MDF or plywood).
Now that you mention it, it seems that it is mostly cabinets that are particle board that have molding all the way around. Probably because it isn't as strong as MDF or plywood. The only game I have with molding all the way around is particle board (I also have one particle board game that doesn't have it on the back or bottom). Both particle board games are Atari games.
With Ply or MDF I wouldn't hesitate to skip the molding on the back or bottom because both of those materials are plenty strong as it is. But it really comes down to preference, obviously there is no right or wrong way (unless you are trying to mimic a particular cabinet).
Wade
RayB:
I'll correct you Wade:
Midways have the t-molding wrapping around the top back, about 8 inches down and then it stops. ;-)
Atari cabs tend to have molding along every edge available.