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Hot water heater leak
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Edgedamage:
The pvc pipe should just un-thread. Then remove the s-valve and get a replacement at any local pluming shop. Bring the old one with you to match the pressure value. Get a roll of dope tape for the threads.
ChadTower:

Thanks.  Took an hour to drain the tank one bucket at a time, no drain downstairs.

It came off just as you described.  The PVC pipe seems to be in a pressure based collar of some sort that came out easily.  The valve itself took a bit more work but wasn't hard.  I'm heading off to the hardware store in a few minutes.  It doesn't look corroded or anything.  The threads are actually still shiny gold.  We'll see what happens when I get a new one in... if it still lets water out once it's full and up to operating temp, then I know the valve wasn't the issue and it's time to call a repair guy.
J_K_M_A_N:
Sometimes when you test the relief valve, something will break loose from the tank and get stuck holding the relief valve open just a little. It also happens when you open the valve on the bottom. (Most newer ones have those as well for draining.) Both should be fairly easy to change. Good luck.

J_K_M_A_N
ChadTower:

Don't think that was it... the test would have been 2.5 weeks ago and it didn't leak until today.  It probably just was near failure when it was tested.

The new part is in, tank refilled and heated, and after 15 minutes it's not leaking any.  That's a good sign.
ChadTower:



Check your relief valve yearly.  Yow.
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