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Galaxian Mame Conversion
csa3d:
Controls / LEDs installed
So here's some photos of my progress from this week. I started by using template measurements drawn up in photoshop, printed, and cut into the CP. I'm currently using these templates to create the artwork. In the meantime, I thought I'd get the guts installed and tested. To my surprise, everything seems to work. He we go:
Top View
Top Angle
Trackball Detail
For the bottom, I had a very small space to sqeeze this all into. My control panel is designed to hinge upwards 90 degrees to access the rotating monitor, and to work on the panel without having to reach inside the deep, dark depths of the cabinet to find those hidden control panel hinges. Since it's possible that company would see the underside, I gave it a little extra love. I created a shelf out of the original black plexi that came with the cab (I've since replaced it with graylite 14) and mounted the wires as though it was an amp rack. Since the trackball and buttons are lit, it gives the rack a backlit affect. Images below:
Bottom Wiring
Shelf Detail
Lit Top
Lit Top Angle, Right
Lit Top Angle, Left
Bottom Back Lit
This week is all about getting the artwork finished to match the new layout, and send it off to Scott so I can wrap this puppy up and play!
-csa
patrickl:
That looks really slick. Great work. Those lighted buttons look bright :P
csa3d:
--- Quote from: patrickl on October 22, 2007, 04:03:03 am ---That looks really slick. Great work. Those lighted buttons look bright :P
--- End quote ---
Thanks Patrick!
They are fairly bright, but some of that is just the camera's take on things. My only disappointment thus far is that the E-Ice trackball fully lit is dimmer then the E-Ice buttons fully lit. I guess I was hoping they would match. Maybe i'll look into dimming the buttons somehow, if possible.
-csa
csa3d:
I finally got some free time to shore up the artwork for the CP. When I began the fabrication, I had used some templates which I mocked up in photoshop to get the spacing and horizontal alignment for the button spacing. But because my CP is wider then my printer, I had to create multiple templates and align them by hand. I have found that this technique has made it let's say, "challenging" to guess the exact spacing to draw over top of.
I took 4 sheets of paper, and taped them together to form a long sheet of paper. I flipped the control panel upside down on this long sheet of paper, and traced out all the holes (which I drilled using printed templates). I also traced the sides, and was left with an image I planned to scan back into the computer (in 8.5x11" sections) and recombine it in photoshop. Once this was completed, I overlayed my original printed templates, and lined it up to the scanned in tracing. The result was a template I'm hoping is fairly accurate.
Next I took my templates which I mocked up months ago, and tweaked them to my final layout. Here's where I'm at so far. Next I'll likely take this to Kinko's and have them print the cheapest large format version I can obtain, even it's that's black and white, so I can test the alignment. Then it's off to Scott at Mame Marquees for final production. I'm sure even if it lines up at Kinko's, I risk it not properly lining up at Scott's. I can't imagine it will off by much, and I'm pretty sure I'm not building a 3rd control panel over it it doesn't work out.
Pic 1: Scanned Template
Pic 2: Overlayed with artwork, ready for printing (after removing button diagrams)
audiomidiman:
Have anymore updates? Also, do you have any images of your final CPO? I'm doing a Minor restoration on a working Galaxian and "MIGHT" be turning it into a 48 in 1 or a 60 in 1 w/ a custom CPO. However, I'll most likely keep the original harness, PCB and power supply happily in the cabinet so one day it can be a dedicated cabinet again.