Main > Project Announcements
Galaxian Mame Conversion
johnperkins21:
--- Quote from: Level42 on February 05, 2007, 06:20:55 am ---I'm sorry but: This is WRONG !
Gutting a COMPLETE Galaxian to turn it into a Mame thing with.....in heaven's name....a LCD :banghead:
Like a steamtrain-engine powered with en electrical motor.....I'm sorry :'( :'(
Hey it's your cab....but I can't help feeling sorry for Galaxian No. 7533
--- End quote ---
You're wrong. He's not destroying the cab, he's saving it. Sure it's not going to be a dedicated original Galaxian, but he's taking the time and effort to stay true to the original design. It was messed up and he didn't know how to fix it, but he could modify it to suit his needs and still maintain the look and feel of an original. The original boards and monitor can go to a good home, with someone who can figure out the problems and restore those things back to their original glory.
Give the guy some slack. And I think these sorts of projects are great. I look at it as saving a Galaxian from the dump, or some other fate worse than that:
--- Quote from: csa3d on February 06, 2007, 02:07:03 pm ---I could have put fur on this cab, made some obnoxius stickers that go with no theme randomly stuck all over the place
--- End quote ---
Not everyone has room for dedicated machines in their house, but they do love the look of some of the older machines. This is a perfect way to get the best of both worlds.
Back on topic, I like it. Never been a huge fan of these cabs (mainly because of the extreme angle of the monitor), but your artwork looks really good so far. My only advice would be to put those player 2 buttons in a horizontal configuration if at all possible. I just don't know how comfortable it would be to have them vertically like that. I'm sure you'll play-test and decide, but that's my only real criticism. Other than that, keep up the good work.
csa3d:
Yeah, those controls haven't been tested yet. I'm in a standstill on this project due to some crazy work related things. And also, now that Randy has made a spinner fit into a standard button hole, I can potentially rearrange that spinner, shifting the ball back towards center, and gaining some additonal room. I'm really trying to be careful to give robotron a good fit as well, so we'll have to see.
I've ran across a few cabs around here that are inspiring me again to push this forward even though right now is not the right time to do so! I'm liking Level42's project, Bella's Cab, and JFunks project, all which I'll be watching closely to see how everyone else is tacking things.
Thanks for the comments, Hopefully this weekend I can find a few minutes to pull 'em out of the corner and start up the power saws (just kidding level42!) >:D
-csa
Level42:
Hey csa3d,
I might have come over a bit too harsh on my first reply. Maybe triggered because I'm trying to do the full restore on my Galaxian....however don't consider this "flaming", just a matter of difference in opinion.
I still stand by my opinion though, but that's what a forum like this is about. You put up a project and you get responses. I hope to get good feedback but remarks on how to do things better or that people think different are all very welcome and valued.
I actualy really like your CPO design. It's nice in the Galaxian style. But if I would have wanted a Galaxian-styled Mame cab, I would have get the dimensions from the net and saw the boards myself.....because essentialy, that's the only thing you'll still be using from the original cab.....
I got a PM from a member here about my Galaxian No.815.
I had mentioned that I thought it was so weird that there is no repro artwork available for the Galaxian. He said that every scratch and spot on the artwork is also part of the history of the cab and that he wouldn't replace it at all. I value his opinion and in a sense he is right about that. But if I would go this way, I should have only cleaned the cab,leave the blurry WG in it, use the dirty worn-out buttons, keep the totaly worn-out T-molding on and keep the rust going on the metal parts. IMHO it's fine to restore/replace these parts IF you keep it as original as possible. I know that the CPO I ordered is 100% the same as the original (up to the structure of the vinyl !). So why not replace it ? I also know that I COULD have the side and kickplate art printed (the files are available) but it would need the EXACT same vinyl. Hard to find, and then how to print it ? Anyway....I leave my side-art as it is, because it's already very nice for the age. But if I could get some (NOS) or 100% exact repro, Id' go for it....
What I want to say with this all: opinions differ. I may have thought otherwise about your project a while ago, because I didn't really own a classic up to then....It's also because of this that I think that your Galaxian could have pretty easily been restored.
That hummm you're hearing is perfectly normal. Those fat-ass transformers on the bottom are producing that sound and it's simply the mains-humm that these produce, and always have.
Probably you only needed to replace the monitor (with a CRT ! ;) ) maybe get the board fixed/"new" board....but again, it's your cab :D I trust you do it as stylish as possible, and take care with those power saws, the arcade Gods, may take a revenge ;)
csa3d:
Level 42,
Cool. I can definately see how someone might do exactly as you say and fix the monitor, clean the insides, and replaced the generic CPO that came on it with a reproduction original. The artwork is a lot better then some I've seen I suppose you could say. And it's in far better shape then that one found in the rain.
I'm the type of person who gets pissed when if my car gets a tiny scratch on it. I've considered leaving everything alone, but mentally any imperfection makes me question why I don't 'fix it' knowing full well i can print reproductions that 95% of everyone won't know I didn't buy this cab new. I will be priting new art using the files you mentioned, which are all ready downloaded in case that source leaves the internet for good suddenly. I'm not sure if I'll be painting the cab white or getting vinyal printed upon. Neither will be 100% authentic, but it will look less 'antique' and more original to me. I need to research the cost of getting vinyal printed on. If after removing the vinyl, the wood looks in as good of shape as the inside of the cab does after I cleaned it out, I feel it would be a crime to prime and paint over the wood. The X-Factor here is that the front has water damage to the bottom front kick plate and the sides have some chips. There are also some large holes in this unit from some opperator adding the gigantic metal theft bar across the coin door. Those wholes need filled, and so far, the only solution I see is that I either replace the panel completely, or use the 'fill it with bondo' technique. The latter solution means the wood would be ugly anyways, so I mind as well paint it at that point.
This weekend I'm likely taking a hairdryer to the entire cab and stripping off that vinyal after taking a ton of reference shots. Bondo is likely to come shortly after to fix any chips, holes, etc to remove the years of abuse. I can't believe someone used the side art of this cab as a 'tree trunk' where they've written their name on the side of it. I never as a kid, carved or wrote on public property that wasn't mine. Now trees, maybe once... but we chop them down to become furnature anways :D
I'm super interested to see how you fix the coindoor rust. Do keep me posted. I have holes in mine as well which need filled. I visited the site with the midway coindoor logo replacement and noticed I can buy a whole new door front which has no holes, for relatively cheap, which is another option.
Till next time :cheers:
-csa
csa3d:
Update 02/11/07: Coin Door Restoration Begins
Started working on the coin door this weekend after making a trip to the Home Depot. Came home with the following inventory:
* Dremmel attachment - Wire Wheel #428
* Dremmel attachment - Wire Brush #442
* Black and Decker 2" Wire Wheel (fine)
* Naval Jelly Rust Remover
* Citristrip Paint Stripping Gel
* Brasso metal polish
* Rust-oleum Autobody Primer - #2089 Dark Gray
* Rust-oleum Fine Textured Finish - #7220 Black
* 1 Can of Bondo
This coin door isn't in too bad of shape. It's got some holes under coin #2 insert which need filled, some slight bends which need straitened, and everything could use a good scrub and a paint job.
Step 1: Dismanteling the Door
I began by taking apart the door. Because this is my first venture at this, I took about 100 pictures of each step, and also made individually labeled bags for each screw set so I'd know which one came from where when it's time to put it back together. The hardest part of this process was probably removing the Midway Logo from the front. It was attached with rivets, and sure, I could have pried this right off since it's scratched all to :censored: anyways, but I felt some respect was needed for this task. I took a finishing nail, and pounded out each rivot from the back which in turn, poped the nail out the front, leaving the logo in tact. Below is a picture of the door before and after dismantling. Note the holes under coin 2 which will be filled with bondo soon.
Step 2: Coin Acceptor Rust Removal
In the paint isle, I accidentally spotted Naval Jelly rust remover, which I've been told to look for to aide with the rust task by others. I picked up the bottle when home, and started to read the applicationn directions. Right on the bottle, it states clearly that, "This product contains chemicals known to cause cancer in the state of California". Good thing I'm in Texas! ;) I immediately put the jar right back down after reading this, figuring that restoration of an arcade machine wasn't worth uncurable disease. It will be going back to the Depot next weekend.
I next grabbed all my newly purchased wire wheels and headed into the garadge with all the metal pieces. I loaded my cordless drill the small dremmel wire wheel and turned it on at full blast to get the feel for this process. Seems the cordless wasn't going to cut the mustard in reguads to RPM. I then remembered that last year I purchased the "worst drill ever" for 15$. It is a no name brand, but plugs into a wall. It has forward and reverse options, no variable speed option, and strips screws like it's no ones business. You hit the trigger, you get full tilt RPM. Known only previously as a waist of money, it now serves as a makeshift dremmel motor GREAT for paint and rust removal.
I loaded up the blue drill with the small wheel (seen below) and began by testing the rust removal process on the BACK of the worst coin acceptor. I was fearful that this wheel would heavily mar and scratch the finish, and felt that testing here was the best option. To my surprise, this little wheel took the rust right off, and didn't seem to scratch the finish anything like I had expected it to. Upon completing the back, I was confident that the this process would work for the front as well. Thirtly minutes later I had 2 rust free coin acceptors.
Next I've been told by others to use steel wool to remove the bigger scratches the wheel would cause. After all, this is sanding, a process of adding scratching to beautify. So I did this on both sides of the coin acceptors. I'm not convinced this did anything at all. I think this little dremmel wheel did a fantastic job of not scratching the surface much at all.
Lastly, I hit both coin acceptors with a soft rag and some Brasso metal polish. This made them a tad shinier, but do not expect to get new bumper feel from a 28 year old part. I think they turned out pretty good (see before and after pictures below)
Now about the acceptor bolts (which were rusted and REALLY horrible looking). I read that the preferred process is to take your bolt, and stick it in your drill chuck so the screw end goes inside. This allows the head to be spun into some steel wool, followed by spinning it into a rag of Brasso. Point take, I tried that and I highly suggest you do not. Spinning the bolt into the steel wool caused the bolt to snag the wool from my hand and twist it into a giant ball around the drill head and the bolt itself. I even made sure it was taunt in my hand before attempting this. I laughed and was like, "um.. duh of course it would do that." I untangled it and decided to skip this step and try going strait to the "spin into rag of Brasso" technique. This was even more scary. The drill snagged the rag from my hand and almost whipped me in the face, not to mention twerked my wrist. Don't do this unless you enjoy pain.
Pissed now, I got the wheel back out. Holding the bolt shaft with a pair of needle nose plyers, I ran the brush over the head, and within 10 seconds it looked new and shiney again. I see no scratches on the nail head, so I don't think it's vital to spin the bolt into a flat surface for consistant scratching sake.
Step 3: Cleaning the coin mechs
I considered repainting the interior coin mechs as Peale describes in his coindoor refinishing tutorial. I really only think the coin shoots look crummy, and after I figured that no one will see the insides much, plus they work fine right now. They have age defying crud, and a quick blast from the small wire wheel took off most of that! They now don't look new, but they also don't look disgustingly old. One of them was likely replaced, as there is still a sticker on it dating to January of 1982. Cool! I will probably hit the coin shoots with a shot from the 2" wire wheel next weekend. The bigger wheel does add noticable scratches, but will take of a tiny layer which I think will make the overall appearance look nider to those two particular pieces.
Step 4: Paint Removal from the Door and Frame
So I couldn't find Strippease at the Home Depot. I did manage to find something called Citristrip Gel. It said it was a safe stripper (which sounded like a plus to me, no one likes a dirty stripper!) and didn't give off fumes. Since it's freezing out, I thought I could use this indoors and not have my wife pass out. Upon reading the directions, on the label again a scary statement, "This product contains a chemical known to cause reproductive harm in the state of California". What's with California and why do they want us all to die? I was told by my wife to immediately put that down and not to use it. So I headed out to the garadge to use it. Hey, one can always adopt, right?
I got out a paint brush and lathered a thick coat over both the frame and the door fronts. It smelled delicious like oranges as the label said it would, and I resisted the temptation to taste it. It sat overnight, and I anticipated wiping off years of yuck with a wet rag. Well, this was true on the frame. The coindoor resisted, so I shot it by hand with a wire brush. Wearing rubber gloves, I scrubbed away wiping new layers off with a clean paper towel. I used 2/3rds of a roll before I decided it was as good as it was going to get without reapplying another coat. YUCK! I'm not sure I'd do the chemical peel again. Curious and anxious to see my door revealed, I rembered this blog where he mentions doing the entire thing with a wire wheel. Hey, I have one of those! And damn.. it works WAY better then this chemical crap.
I will mention that the 2" B&D Wire Wheel does add noticable scratches to the door as it strips paint like butter. These are minor in my opinion. The door is going to be primed and repainted so this is not a problem. Doing it over, I'd skip any sort of paint stripper and proceed strait to grinding.
Next Weekend
As the door stands tonight, it's 80% finished before I grew too cold to stay outside and my wrist hurst from not having a proper dremmel tool to use. Once I finish sanding the paint away, I plan to layer the coin door in with a thin coat of bondo in a few places where it looks like children beat the hell out of the doing returns. There are also those 4 security holes which need patched. Prime and paint come next, and I'm hoping 1 weekend will be enough to do this all in. I suppose I may run into "don't rush it" paint issues, so we'll have to see how it goes. I'll keep you posted. For now, enjoy the pictures below which accompany this restoration story.