Author Topic: Joust cocktail Plans (Read 28355 times)

spacies · « **on:** September 27, 2006, 09:22:39 pm »

A friend wants me to build him a Joust cocktail and he will give a deal me one of his Williams Defender machines.
We only got generic cabinets here in the 80s and they were fitted with imported PCBs. BORING!

So to have an original USA machine is quite a big deal. You guys are SO lucky

Anyway, I require the plans or basic measuements for this build.

Thanks in advance.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #1 on:** September 28, 2006, 05:16:40 pm »

I've been hemming and hawing all day because I hate measuring cabs, but this seems to be for a worthwhile cause and my Joust cocktail is currently accesible sitting in the middle of the basement.

It may take me some time to get to it, but I'll assemble some measurements for you. Remind me in a week in case RealLife(tm) intervenes and I forget.

Cheers.

nostrebor · « **Reply #2 on:** September 28, 2006, 05:46:28 pm »

Quote from: CheffoJeffo on September 28, 2006, 05:16:40 pm

I've been hemming and hawing all day because I hate measuring cabs, but this seems to be for a worthwhile cause and my Joust cocktail is currently accesible sitting in the middle of the basement.

It may take me some time to get to it, but I'll assemble some measurements for you. Remind me in a week in case RealLife(tm) intervenes and I forget.

Cheers.

You had me on the list for these as well

If I could get my hands on a cabinet for a dy or two, I would definitely work up some plans in Cad and share them.

spacies · « **Reply #3 on:** September 28, 2006, 06:28:36 pm »

Thanks heaps mate,

I will also be happy to document the build and post progress photos and tips here.

I am sure it will be helpful to many looking at building one of the coolest cocktails made.

danny_galaga · « **Reply #4 on:** October 01, 2006, 04:41:17 am »

keep on cheffos arse on this

spacies · « **Reply #5 on:** October 01, 2006, 06:10:13 am »

The Young Ones. Totally classic TV show!

Come on Cheffo

You can do it!

MinerAl · « **Reply #6 on:** October 02, 2006, 11:56:48 am »

bump

Cheffo!

Cheffo!

Cheffo!

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #7 on:** October 02, 2006, 12:02:01 pm »

I said a week

Cheers

spacies · « **Reply #8 on:** October 03, 2006, 06:15:23 pm »

Not a word

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #9 on:** October 03, 2006, 07:14:57 pm »

I didn't get to it last night as an opportunity arose for me to pick up a couple of new projects (as if I need more of those, but the price was right and I really need a vertical MAME cabinet).

I've got some pics taken and will superimpose measurements on them tommorrow.

From those, you guys can ask for more pics and clarifications.

Cheers.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #10 on:** October 04, 2006, 09:50:54 pm »

OK ... I ran into some technical difficulties with PaintShopPro, but rather than delay until next week (holiday weekend here and I'm going to the cottage),I will treat you all to my mad MSPaint skillz ...

Here are some photos and badly-inserted measurements.

WARNING: Bandwidth-intensive as I did not resize the photos (hence not putting the burden on saint to host):

http://216.176.56.158/arcade/joust1.html

Once I get back, I can refine/check/add whatever you guys need, but at least you have a starting point and haven't been waiting a year like danny_galaga (Go Special Patrol Group!) did for Asteroids measurements.

Cheers.

spacies · « **Reply #11 on:** October 04, 2006, 11:14:33 pm »

Cheffo,

You're a god dam legend my friend.

Thats all I need.

Thanks very much!

This will be my next build after I finish the Donkey Kong.

PS Love the spray painting LOL

leapinlew · « **Reply #12 on:** October 04, 2006, 11:30:29 pm »

Quote from: CheffoJeffo on October 04, 2006, 09:50:54 pm

OK ... I ran into some technical difficulties with PaintShopPro, but rather than delay until next week (holiday weekend here and I'm going to the cottage),I will treat you all to my mad MSPaint skillz ...

Here are some photos and badly-inserted measurements.

WARNING: Bandwidth-intensive as I did not resize the photos (hence not putting the burden on saint to host):

http://happycampers.to/arcade/joust1.html

Once I get back, I can refine/check/add whatever you guys need, but at least you have a starting point and haven't been waiting a year like danny_galaga (Go Special Patrol Group!) did for Asteroids measurements.

Cheers.

CheffoJeffo

That was very kind of you Cheffo.

Stingray · « **Reply #13 on:** October 05, 2006, 11:35:59 am »

Quote from: nostrebor on September 28, 2006, 05:46:28 pm

Quote from: CheffoJeffo on September 28, 2006, 05:16:40 pm
I've been hemming and hawing all day because I hate measuring cabs, but this seems to be for a worthwhile cause and my Joust cocktail is currently accesible sitting in the middle of the basement.

It may take me some time to get to it, but I'll assemble some measurements for you. Remind me in a week in case RealLife(tm) intervenes and I forget.

Cheers.

You had me on the list for these as well If I could get my hands on a cabinet for a dy or two, I would definitely work up some plans in Cad and share them.

Dave, if you're still planning on doing some real plans from the photos +fu for you. Post them in the fort if you do them in case I lose track of this thread. I'd love to have them.

-S

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #14 on:** October 05, 2006, 11:37:56 am »

Quote from: Stingray on October 05, 2006, 11:35:59 am

Dave, if you're still planning on doing some real plans from the photos +fu for you. Post them in the fort if you do them in case I lose track of this thread. I'd love to have them.

I'll offer to host them and pass along to Jake and zorg for them as well ...

Cheers.

nostrebor · « **Reply #15 on:** October 05, 2006, 02:32:16 pm »

Quote from: Stingray on October 05, 2006, 11:35:59 am

Quote from: nostrebor on September 28, 2006, 05:46:28 pm
Quote from: CheffoJeffo on September 28, 2006, 05:16:40 pm
I've been hemming and hawing all day because I hate measuring cabs, but this seems to be for a worthwhile cause and my Joust cocktail is currently accesible sitting in the middle of the basement.

It may take me some time to get to it, but I'll assemble some measurements for you. Remind me in a week in case RealLife(tm) intervenes and I forget.

Cheers.

You had me on the list for these as well If I could get my hands on a cabinet for a dy or two, I would definitely work up some plans in Cad and share them.

Dave, if you're still planning on doing some real plans from the photos +fu for you. Post them in the fort if you do them in case I lose track of this thread. I'd love to have them.

-S

It may be a while, but yeah I'm still planning on it.

nostrebor · « **Reply #16 on:** October 05, 2006, 02:38:25 pm »

Now that I've replied, I went and looked at the pics. THANKS! alot. I can get a long way with those, and I'll probably pass some questions along once I get the primary stuff figured out. We cant get an exact replica, but I can get a good facsimile frome these.

I may have to build a prototype to prove the plans work

*Dave tells his wife: "But honey, I have to build a proto. Otherwise we'll never know if my plans are good."

Edit: typo.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #17 on:** October 05, 2006, 11:03:57 pm »

Quote from: nostrebor on October 05, 2006, 02:38:25 pm

Now that I've replied, I went and looked at the pics. THANKS! alot. I can get a long way with those, and I'll probably pass some questions along once I get the primary stuff figured out. We cant get an exact replica, but I can get a good facsimile frome these.

No worries ... let me know what else you need -- I can do tracings of the curves if that would help.

Whatever you need.

Cheers.

eccs19 · « **Reply #18 on:** October 06, 2006, 06:40:10 pm »

Quote

No worries ...

Whatever you need.

Cheers.

How about the cab itself?

fixedpigs · « **Reply #19 on:** January 17, 2007, 12:34:20 am »

jeffo...

in the first photo...
what is the length from dead center front to back on the top...?

thanks...!

spacies · « **Reply #20 on:** January 17, 2007, 12:42:39 am »

Wohoo,

Progress?

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #21 on:** January 17, 2007, 09:14:53 am »

Quote from: fixedpigs on January 17, 2007, 12:34:20 am

in the first photo...
what is the length from dead center front to back on the top...?

27 1/4"

Cheers

fixedpigs · « **Reply #22 on:** January 17, 2007, 01:31:29 pm »

well here's what i've started so far...

some angle(115deg?) or measurement isn't right...

the 19 1/2" horizontal section should have its ends meeting the two dashed lines coming off at ninety degree angles from the 17 3/8" sides...

hopefully it won't inconvenience you too much jeffo to take some more measurements...?

thanks...!

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #23 on:** January 17, 2007, 01:40:09 pm »

Ack ..

Try 105 instead of 115.

fixedpigs · « **Reply #24 on:** January 17, 2007, 01:50:06 pm »

soooooo close...

Tailgunner · « **Reply #25 on:** January 17, 2007, 08:34:43 pm »

What I've got so far...

Tailgunner · « **Reply #26 on:** January 17, 2007, 08:49:39 pm »

side...

fixedpigs · « **Reply #27 on:** January 17, 2007, 11:43:08 pm »

Quote from: Tailgunner on January 17, 2007, 08:34:43 pm

What I've got so far...

looks good...but...the one angle is clearly ninety degrees...so there is a measurement that is slightly off...

or a combination of measurements that are slightly off...

Tailgunner · « **Reply #28 on:** January 18, 2007, 12:21:24 am »

They're bound to be a little off, the cab doesn't have many square corners to base the measurements from in the first place. I figure if it looks right, it is right.

fixedpigs · « **Reply #29 on:** January 18, 2007, 11:31:19 am »

jeffo...

is the thickness of the plywood 3/4" or 1"...?

thanks...

fixedpigs · « **Reply #30 on:** January 18, 2007, 12:51:20 pm »

what i came up with using 105 and 90 degree angles...

Tailgunner · « **Reply #31 on:** January 18, 2007, 06:33:54 pm »

Good work on the top, any luck with the side panel?

I've got most of it modeled but I used rectangular side panels as placeholders till I've got the control panels worked out. They're getting there but I need to re-do them to correct a couple of things.

Questions for Chello:
How thick are the underside pieces for the control panels? (not the lower front piece, but the bottom panel that doesn't show in the pics.) How do you access the back side of the control panels for servicing the joysticks and buttons?

ahofle · « **Reply #32 on:** January 18, 2007, 07:17:50 pm »

Quote from: fixedpigs on January 18, 2007, 12:51:20 pm

what i came up with using 105 and 90 degree angles...

Joust cocktail? Or Oprah's underwear.

fixedpigs · « **Reply #33 on:** January 19, 2007, 02:23:58 pm »

cheffojeffo...

could you get these measurements...?

thanks again...!

Kaytrim · « **Reply #34 on:** January 19, 2007, 02:40:23 pm »

Look at the front pic of the cab that he has. You will see that the total height is 28" and the height of the sides is 27". Thus the thickness of the top is 1".

fixedpigs · « **Reply #35 on:** January 19, 2007, 02:57:30 pm »

quite right...

tailgunner...here's what i came up with for the side...assuming a ten degree angle for the cp slope...

hopefully they jive with what cheffo can come up with...

Tailgunner · « **Reply #36 on:** January 19, 2007, 05:16:25 pm »

Cool, gimme a little while to "panelize" then and check things against the rest of the cabinet.

p.s. I'm with Drew, that avatar is creepy.

update: I had to tweak the dimensions a little to line things up, but I believe we've about got this puppy whipped.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #37 on:** January 19, 2007, 08:19:02 pm »

Looks great, guys ... I'll try to get the rest of the dimensions tommorrow (If I forget, then PM me).

Cheers

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #38 on:** January 20, 2007, 07:09:03 pm »

Sorry guys, too bagged tonight. I'll try tommorrow.

FWIW, there was a Joust cocktail at auction today (second one I have ever seen in person) ... went for $400 Cdn. Only problem was a bad sound board (well, there was no sound and I guess it could have been the ROM board, but my money would be on the sound board).

Cheers

Tailgunner · « **Reply #39 on:** January 20, 2007, 08:36:42 pm »

Not a problem CJ.

Only things I need at this point would be a pic of the underside of a control panel, and a pic of the cab interior taken from the side looking towards the front of the cab. They don't need dimensions I'd just like to see a few things before I draw a blueprint showing all the pieces.

I will say these are going to be somewhat of a pain to build, it reminds me a lot of the way my Pacman cocktail was designed. Midway got smart and simplified the design for the Ms Pac cocktails, and people wisely have been basing all the Midway style replicas off of those.

nostrebor · « **Reply #40 on:** January 22, 2007, 04:38:57 pm »

Thanks guys for getting this modeled. Real Life got me the last 4 months or so... sorry I didn't get to it like I said.

Dave.

spacies · « **Reply #41 on:** January 22, 2007, 05:19:30 pm »

How come the word 'cocktail' has been changed to 'rockettail' throughout the thread???

spacies · « **Reply #42 on:** January 22, 2007, 05:21:02 pm »

WTF???

I meant cock tail

spacies · « **Reply #43 on:** January 22, 2007, 05:21:41 pm »

Can't any say co ck around here??

fixedpigs · « **Reply #44 on:** January 22, 2007, 05:23:14 pm »

lol...

i also was confused...

it looks like we have to check the box to leave posts uncensored in the preferences...

spacies · « **Reply #45 on:** January 22, 2007, 05:28:20 pm »

Cheers,

That fixed it.

fixedpigs · « **Reply #46 on:** January 22, 2007, 10:52:00 pm »

it looks like my assumption of a ten degree slope for the cp was off...

did you have to do a lot of 'tweaking' of measurements around the cp area tailgunner...?

it'd be easy to find the angle of the cp if we had the measurement of the area in the white circle in the second photo...

if you could get a chance jeffo...appreciate it...!

Tailgunner · « **Reply #47 on:** January 23, 2007, 12:58:26 am »

Most of the tweaking I did was extending out the front edge of the side panels approx 1/4", 10 degrees seems to be working here. I've got 1 1/2" at your circled measurement.

One thing I see is you need to lower your control panels a little, if you check the pictures you can see the back edge of the CPs aren't quite flush with bottom side of the lid. I pushed them down 1/4" which is probably too far, but they should be at least 1/8" below the top of the kick panel they attach to.

Here are the dimensions my side panel ended up with:

fixedpigs · « **Reply #48 on:** January 23, 2007, 01:32:40 am »

the reason i think the angle needs to be more is so the bottom of the cp would be even with the top of the kick panel...

i gave a recess of 1/8" for the cp from the edge of the side panel...it doesn't look like it's more than that from the photos jeffo provided...

i think the 2 9/16" is too much for the front edge of the side panel...the steeper slope would help shorten that a bit...

i'm trying my best to stay true to the original measurements from the real thing...-=)

(edit)
i just realised...are the kick panels with the speakers supposed to come all of the way up flush with the 'lid'...?

Tailgunner · « **Reply #49 on:** January 23, 2007, 04:59:34 am »

Quote from: fixedpigs on January 23, 2007, 01:32:40 am

(edit)
i just realised...are the kick panels with the speakers supposed to come all of the way up flush with the 'lid'...?

Yup, the pic with the lid open shows the kick panels to be flush at the top with both the side panels and the center column that surrounds the coin mech. The kick panels could be open behind the control panels or simply have a hole drilled through them for the CP wiring harness connector to pass through. One of the pics I asked for was to see the backside of the kick panels and the box that surrounds the coin vault. It would show how the monitor support was attached as well.

Quote

i think the 2 9/16" is too much for the front edge of the side panel...the steeper slope would help shorten that a bit...

i'm trying my best to stay true to the original measurements from the real thing...-=)

Sometimes I work from the numbers, other times I work from the angles. It rally just depends on the circumstances. Back when these golden age cabs were being designed drafting was still done with pencil and paper, and they had to be designed so that they could be quickly produced in a pre-CNC cabinet shop by Joe Sixpack. When I see an odd fraction or an angle with a decimal point I tend to round things off accordingly, I just can't believe the original blueprint would spec any measurement out to 4 decimal places.

fixedpigs · « **Reply #50 on:** January 23, 2007, 10:43:47 am »

Quote from: Tailgunner on January 23, 2007, 04:59:34 am

Back when these golden age cabs were being designed drafting was still done with pencil and paper, and they had to be designed so that they could be quickly produced in a pre-CNC cabinet shop by Joe Sixpack. When I see an odd fraction or an angle with a decimal point I tend to round things off accordingly, I just can't believe the original blueprint would spec any measurement out to 4 decimal places.

good point...something i didn't even really think about...-=)

fixedpigs · « **Reply #51 on:** January 23, 2007, 04:34:56 pm »

check this out...fifteen degree slope & a new curve of ~~5 3/4"~~...an 1/8" offset would make the cp fit perfectly...

~~all of jeffo's original measurements are unchanged...~~ the only one changed is the 7.5" measurement...

(edit)
i did a bit more fiddling after realising the 7" length of the cp wouldn't jive with the above numbers...

the two measurement's in the black circles are the only thing different...

this looks dead-on now...!

spacies · « **Reply #52 on:** January 23, 2007, 06:13:22 pm »

You guys are rocking!

fixedpigs · « **Reply #53 on:** January 23, 2007, 10:12:49 pm »

i edited my previous message...see above...!

rockin_rick · « **Reply #54 on:** January 23, 2007, 11:04:21 pm »

Thanks everyone for taking the time to measure these up and for drawing them up. This is a nice asset for the community.

Rick

Tailgunner · « **Reply #55 on:** January 24, 2007, 09:45:29 am »

Looks good FP.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #56 on:** January 24, 2007, 02:45:03 pm »

Hi guys ... I am still alive, just caught up in some RealLife(tm) stuff that is taking all of my time.

Hopefully I'l be clear by tommorrow evening to get you the remaining measurements and pics.

Sorry for the delays.

Cheers.

spacies · « **Reply #57 on:** January 25, 2007, 03:28:35 pm »

Guys,

Does the software you are using to design this masterpiece support millimeters???

I am from the land of metric and building it using inches is rather difficult.

Thanks.

Tailgunner · « **Reply #58 on:** January 25, 2007, 06:38:29 pm »

I dunno about what FP is using, but I can convert between the systems fairly easily. Plywood thickness might prove a bit of a problem though, the cab is built out of 23/32" plywood which would be 18.25mm in metric. What are typical plywood thicknesses available to you?

spacies · « **Reply #59 on:** January 25, 2007, 06:41:43 pm »

18mm is the standard ply/mdf thickness.

If you could convert to mm's that would be much appreciated.

Its fairly hard to find a tape measure here with inches so basically every measurement has to be converted online. before hand.

fixedpigs · « **Reply #60 on:** January 25, 2007, 10:00:46 pm »

hey gunner...

how do you know the width of the plywood...?
i've been using 3/4" in my drawings...

(edit)
holy crow...i'm tired...
i just did the math...22/32" is 3/4"...basically...

i'm using sketchup® spacies...i'll see if i can convert to metric easily...

fixedpigs · « **Reply #61 on:** January 26, 2007, 01:01:12 am »

hey spacies...

it's super easy for me to change measurement units with sketchup...

so once we get everything finalized...i can definitely get you measurements in millimeters...!

spacies · « **Reply #62 on:** January 26, 2007, 01:17:34 am »

Excellent!

Tailgunner · « **Reply #63 on:** January 26, 2007, 09:46:43 am »

Quote from: fixedpigs on January 25, 2007, 10:00:46 pm

hey gunner...

how do you know the width of the plywood...?
i've been using 3/4" in my drawings...

(edit)
holy crow...i'm tired...
i just did the math...23/32" is 3/4"...basically...

Yeah, plywood typically comes slightly undersize. It's usually not enough to worry about though it might make a difference when doing conversions to metric. If metric plywood is undersized as well then some adjustments may be in order.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #64 on:** January 27, 2007, 08:48:28 am »

I am temporarily free of RealLife(tm) ...or should be later today ... I have re-read the thread to see what I need to get and will try toget it done later today (I seem to have misplaced my builder's protractor, but it has to be around).

Anything else you guys need (I'll be out for the next 3-4 hours) ?

fixedpigs · « **Reply #65 on:** January 27, 2007, 10:47:58 am »

hey jeffo...!

in addition to the info you already have...here's a wishlist of what i'd like...

i've labeled each measurement with a letter(up to 'u')...this way you don't have to mess around with ms paint anymore...-=)

just make a list of letters with each measurement...

thanks again...

fixedpigs · « **Reply #66 on:** January 27, 2007, 10:49:25 am »

more photos...

fixedpigs · « **Reply #67 on:** January 27, 2007, 10:50:02 am »

and one last...

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #68 on:** January 27, 2007, 01:53:54 pm »

Here are the latest measurements and updated pictures.

I like the assigned letter approach, so please feel free to use that in the future so we don't end up hamstrung by my weak graphis skills.

A - 9 1/4"
B - 2 1/2"
C - 1 7/8"
D - 1 7/8"
E - 1 1/8"
F - 11 1/12"
G - 2 15/16"
H - 3 3/4" to top of lock (which is counter-sunk)
I - 1 13/16"
J - 7/8" recessed by 3/4" (it's the door stop)
K - 3 3/4"
L - 2 3/4"
M - wasn't sure what this was, but it is 1 1/2 inch from inner wall to the monitor mount
N - 1/4"
O - 1"
P - 7 3/16"
Q - 15 1/4"
R - 6 15/16"
S - 13 3/8"
T - 10"
U - 2 7/8"

For the side vents, they are 4" wide (on centre) and 1" high.

The top vents are 3 1/2" from the top of the side panel and 3" apart. The vent closest to the rear is 3" from the back of the side panel.

The bottom vent is 5" from the bottom of the side panel.

The CP is sloped at 10 degrees below horizontal.

Side panel is 27 15/16" high along the rear edge.

Picture from below the CP is attached.

.... continued in next post ....

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #69 on:** January 27, 2007, 01:58:36 pm »

The CPs are accessed using two screws seen below in "BehindCP.jpg".

These screws mate wth T-nuts located in the bottom blocks seen in "CPOpen.jpg"

The "floor" of the CPs is 3/4" thick. Note well that these are really shallow panels and,unless you get authentic sticks, you may want to alter ths part of the plans (you can see that mine had the bottom panels routed out in a prior conversion before Williams Guru Mike Ranger lovingly restored it to Joust).

I hope that these help and don't create too many conflicts within your models. I should be around the rest of the weekend for additional measurements / clarifications / pictures.

Thanks for your patience and hard work on this stuff -- this thing must be hell to model.

Cheers.

fixedpigs · « **Reply #70 on:** January 27, 2007, 02:08:39 pm »

wonderful...!

something i forgot...

what is the offest/inset/lip of perpendicular panels...?
1/2"...?
1/4"...?
1/8"...?
none of the above...?

thanks again...!

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #71 on:** January 27, 2007, 02:14:47 pm »

The lip of the vertical panels and the lid ?

fixedpigs · « **Reply #72 on:** January 27, 2007, 02:35:46 pm »

Quote from: CheffoJeffo on January 27, 2007, 02:14:47 pm

The lip of the vertical panels and the lid ?

that too...-=)
how much does the 'lid' overlap the base...?

see photos for a more elaborate definition to my latest request...

(edit)
i added some more measurement requests...jj through nn...thanks...!

fixedpigs · « **Reply #73 on:** January 27, 2007, 05:53:20 pm »

woo...!

so far so good...everything is _spot on_...

(edit)
and metric for spacies...

fixedpigs · « **Reply #74 on:** January 28, 2007, 01:23:13 am »

a long evening...but productive...

here is the top...it is damn near perfect...all it needs is the cutout for the monitor/bezel...(measurements please jeffo...thanks...!)

it consists of:
- 3/4" plywood/mdf/etc...
- 1/4" oak/maple/etc...
- 1/4" glass...
- glass clips...
- t-moulding...

(edit)
i added some more measurement requests...dd through ii...thanks...!

steptoe · « **Reply #75 on:** January 28, 2007, 03:44:58 am »

Nothing short of "Poetry in Motion". Very nice guys.

i have never seen this cab before and i must say i want one. This could be my next project.

does anyone know if there is any artwork available.

cheers

heres a pic of my last cocktail

spriggy · « **Reply #76 on:** January 28, 2007, 08:24:24 am »

Quote from: steptoe on January 28, 2007, 03:44:58 am

does anyone know if there is any artwork available.

Yeh.. 'Arcade Renovations' have some in stock and they come with the coin door decals.

http://www.arcaderenovations.com/store/product.php?productid=257&cat=102&page=1

Tailgunner · « **Reply #77 on:** January 28, 2007, 10:46:12 pm »

Damn, I go out of town for a couple of days and FP is all over this project.

Excellent work there bud.

fixedpigs · « **Reply #78 on:** January 29, 2007, 11:03:23 am »

thanks tailgunner...

what can i say...?
it's a fun project...so when i have some time to work on it...i get a lot done...

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #79 on:** January 30, 2007, 08:56:58 am »

Sorry, gus ... got waylayed again. will get the outstanding measurements up as soon as I can.

I the meantime, maybe someone is local and wants to save this poor, mistreated, badly-converted Joust cocktail:

EBay - Joust cocktail in Reno

Cheers

fixedpigs · « **Reply #80 on:** January 30, 2007, 11:15:07 am »

no worries jeffo...

i'm going to put all of my photos with measurement requests in one post to make it easy...
i don't know why i didn't do this before...

i realise that some of my measurement requests may seem redundant...please bear with me...it's kind of like that whole 'measure twice' theory...

here's a list so you can just copy & paste...
A - 9 1/4"
B - 2 1/2"
C - 1 7/8"
D - 1 7/8"
E - 1 1/8"
F - 11 1/12"
G - 2 15/16"
H - 3 3/4" to top of lock (which is counter-sunk)
I - 1 13/16"
J - 7/8" recessed by 3/4" (it's the door stop)
K - 3 3/4"
L - 2 3/4"
M - wasn't sure what this was, but it is 1 1/2 inch from inner wall to the monitor mount
N - 1/4"
O - 1"
P - 7 3/16"
Q - 15 1/4"
R - 6 15/16"
S - 13 3/8"
T - 10"
U - 2 7/8"
V - 1/4"
W -
X - 1/4"
Y - 7 1/2"
Z - 2 3/8"

NOTE: Measurements AA, BB and CC are taken EXCLUDING the shroud (e.g. are measured on the lid). The shroud decreases the visible area by 1 1/2" on either side, 1/2" near the hinge (e.g. above CC) and 3" at the top (e.g. closest to front when lid is closed).

AA - 18 1/2"
BB - 15 1/2
CC - 2 1/2"
DD - 26 3/4"
EE - 16 5/8"
FF - 14 7/8"
GG - 7 3/4"
HH - 18 1/2"
II - 3 3/4"
JJ - 6 1/4"
KK - 13 1/2"
LL - 6 1/2"
MM - 1/4"
NN - 21 1/4"
OO -
PP - 2 3/4"
QQ - 2 1/2"
RR - 4"

thank you once again...

spacies · « **Reply #81 on:** January 30, 2007, 04:48:14 pm »

Quote from: CheffoJeffo on January 30, 2007, 08:56:58 am

Sorry, gus ... got waylayed again. will get the outstanding measurements up as soon as I can.

I the meantime, maybe someone is local and wants to save this poor, mistreated, badly-converted Joust cocktail:

EBay - Joust cocktail in Reno

Cheers

I wonder how much shipping to New Zealand would be?

Virgil Tracy · « **Reply #82 on:** February 03, 2007, 03:29:23 pm »

I have been watching this thread with interest, I have never seen a joust cocktail but I am now thinking of building one. Thanks for all the information

fixedpigs · « **Reply #83 on:** February 09, 2007, 01:51:16 pm »

just a reminder jeffo...!

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=58532.msg622920#msg622920

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #84 on:** February 09, 2007, 01:54:05 pm »

Thanks ... should be this weekend ... just finished (last night) the last crush on a gruelling 8 month project that was holding up all manner of important things (like these measurements and more than one arcade project).

Cheers

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #85 on:** February 11, 2007, 03:20:04 pm »

A - 9 1/4"
B - 2 1/2"
C - 1 7/8"
D - 1 7/8"
E - 1 1/8"
F - 11 1/12"
G - 2 15/16"
H - 3 3/4" to top of lock (which is counter-sunk)
I - 1 13/16"
J - 7/8" recessed by 3/4" (it's the door stop)
K - 3 3/4"
L - 2 3/4"
M - wasn't sure what this was, but it is 1 1/2 inch from inner wall to the monitor mount
N - 1/4"
O - 1"
P - 7 3/16"
Q - 15 1/4"
R - 6 15/16"
S - 13 3/8"
T - 10"
U - 2 7/8"
V - 1/4"
W -
X - 1/4"
Y - 7 1/2"
Z - 2 3/8"

NOTE: Measurements AA, BB and CC are taken EXCLUDING the shroud (e.g. are measured on the lid). The shroud decreases the visible area by 1 1/2" on either side, 1/2" near the hinge (e.g. above CC) and 3" at the top (e.g. closest to front when lid is closed).

AA - 18 1/2"
BB - 15 1/2
CC - 2 1/2"
DD - 26 3/4"
EE - 16 5/8"
FF - 14 7/8"
GG - 7 3/4"
HH - 18 1/2"
II - 3 3/4"
JJ - 6 1/4"
KK - 13 1/2"
LL - 6 1/2"
MM - 1/4"
NN - 21 1/4"
OO -
PP - 2 3/4"
QQ - 2 1/2"
RR - 4"

NO worries about any "redundant" measurements ... I am measuring with a metal ruler and a tape on an assembled cab (calipers on a disassembled cab would be much easier) and am bound to make mistakes, so ask me to double-check if things aren't working out.

Apologies again for the delay -- I didn't mean to break up the momentum you guys had going!

Cheers

Tailgunner · « **Reply #86 on:** February 11, 2007, 10:58:09 pm »

Don't sweat it, and thanks for going above and beyond the call of duty to take all of these measurements.

fixedpigs · « **Reply #87 on:** February 12, 2007, 01:25:16 pm »

good work jeffo...

here's a question for you...
how much overlap does the top have over the base...?
it looks to be 1/4" in most places...but something doesn't seem right with where the top/lid overlaps the kickpanels...my model shows 1"...is that right...?

thanks...!

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #88 on:** February 12, 2007, 01:29:31 pm »

By my measurement, it is 3/4" overhang over the kick panels.

spacies · « **Reply #89 on:** March 13, 2007, 12:32:52 am »

How are we going on these plans?

Wouldn't mind having a crack at this soon.

Jakobud · « **Reply #90 on:** March 13, 2007, 02:40:28 am »

Sup guys,

Believe it or not I have some partial Joust Cocktail plans I was working on back in late 2004 that have been sitting on my machine untouched since then. Want me to upload or anything?

Virgil Tracy · « **Reply #91 on:** March 13, 2007, 06:11:44 am »

Quote from: Jakobud on March 13, 2007, 02:40:28 am

. Want me to upload or anything?

Yes please

fixedpigs · « **Reply #92 on:** March 13, 2007, 11:20:16 am »

hey jakobud...

that would be great...

my momentum seriously got slowed down as other things started happening...

and now that warmer weather is here...it will be even more difficult for me to find the time...

i'll try my best to get it wrapped up this month...

modessitt · « **Reply #93 on:** March 14, 2007, 02:46:18 pm »

Haven't seen any measurement needs posted in the past month so don't know how this project is still going, but I can provide measurements from my Joust cocktail as well if needed.

All original, given to me for FREE by some lady who was tired of it sitting in her family room and not working. Turns out just the vertical hold was messed up. Rebuilt the monitor and power supply and had a great game.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #94 on:** March 14, 2007, 02:52:58 pm »

Quote from: modessitt on March 14, 2007, 02:46:18 pm

Haven't seen any measurement needs posted in the past month so don't know how this project is still going, but I can provide measurements from my Joust cocktail as well if needed.

All original, given to me for FREE by some lady who was tired of it sitting in her family room and not working. Turns out just the vertical hold was messed up. Rebuilt the monitor and power supply and had a great game.

WOW! Nice deal.

And a volunteer ... go get 'im guys!

modessitt · « **Reply #95 on:** March 15, 2007, 10:58:04 pm »

Gee, thanks.

A great game, although I've been vascillating on whether to replace the glass as it has a few scratches. Not bad, but would be nice to have it looking pristine.

My favorite part is seeing the control panel "marquees" light up in the dark!

Wish we could get a hard number on exactly how many of these were built originally.

modessitt · « **Reply #96 on:** March 18, 2007, 02:05:37 pm »

Just in case someone is tripping over money and can't wait....

Quarterarcade has a restored original Joust cocktail for sale on their website.

Price? A hefty $1995.00!

Makes the one I got for free look even better now.

Tailgunner · « **Reply #97 on:** March 23, 2007, 10:56:57 pm »

fixedpigs sent me a copy of his model, that'll save me a whole bunch of time not having to model stuff he's allready gotten done. I'll play with it this weekend, we should have a buildable set of plans shortly.

fixedpigs · « **Reply #98 on:** March 23, 2007, 11:53:22 pm »

yeah...

the top is dead on perfect...

i was having trouble getting the base's measurements to jive with each other in perfect harmony though...

Tailgunner · « **Reply #99 on:** March 24, 2007, 02:50:03 pm »

I've got FP's model imported and converted from a mesh object to a NURBS object. Now I can get somewhere.

If either CJ or modessitt can take another pic, there's one area that's still puzzling me. The pics below show what I'm after, it's the area between the front edge of the monitor and the back of the kick panel behind the coin box. I also could use a measurement from the top of the kick panel down to where the monitor support attaches. FP marked it as OO and I'll stick with his labling system.

modessitt · « **Reply #100 on:** March 24, 2007, 03:59:40 pm »

Took some pics. Let me get them loaded onto my computer and add the graphics showing what you want and I'll have them on in about 30 mins.

I've got my monitor and boards stripped out of the game at the moment (monitor will be replaced by new and needed the boards to test an upright that had problems) so I have easy access to the entire inside of the cabinet.

Hold on....too much info headed your way....

bfauska · « **Reply #101 on:** March 24, 2007, 04:13:12 pm »

Hey, is the travel on those joysticks parallel with the cp or the monitor (you know... the ever popular angled joystick debate?)

I really like the look of this machine, I may see if I can plan one out with a rotating monitor for a multi-emulator machine.

If in the process I make any CAD drawings I'll share if anybodys interested, probably in a different thread as it would not be a replica, but the style is super cool.

Later,
Brian

Edit: Adjusted the style of machine I said I was going to make to broaden the options and avoid implying that one emulator in particular is the only reason to build a cabinet.

spacies · « **Reply #102 on:** March 24, 2007, 04:47:19 pm »

Don't forget to make some plans available in metric please fellas.

Tailgunner · « **Reply #103 on:** March 24, 2007, 06:45:10 pm »

Quote from: modessitt on March 24, 2007, 03:59:40 pm

Hold on....too much info headed your way....

Cool deal, the monitor hides a lot in the area I'm interested in. Pics without it in the way will be quite helpful.

@bfauska: Check the pics CJ took of the CP underside on page 2, the sticks are parallel with the CPs and angled in relation to the monitor.

@spacies: metric won't be a problem. Once everything is good I'll break the model down flat and dimension all the individual panels.

modessitt · « **Reply #104 on:** March 24, 2007, 07:53:21 pm »

Okay... sorry it took so long but I decided to get a little over-detailed in case you really wanted this to look as original as possible. (I did warn about too much info coming.)

Only good thing is I've decided this game needs a good cleaning out before I put everything back in.

Here is the top down view showing the inside of the kickpanel behind the coin box.

And here is a different angle:

This shows the spacing question you asked for. Sorry if they're not labeled OO and what not, but you should be able to apply it into your plans.

In case you want to build in the monitor bracket supports, I included the measurements for those as well. Here are the overall dimensions:

It has an interesting shape, as you can see from above. Sorry about the small font size on this one. The measurements read left to right: 1/2", 2", 5/8":

Here is the proper positioning from the right inside wall:

Here is the support for the rear right:

And the proper positioning:

If you want to properly reconstruct the wooden monitor bracket, here is the back-side view with all the major measurements:

And here is the top view, just with reference measurements. Notice the grooves cut into the ends:

And finally, how to cut those grooves:

Hope This helps everyone. If you need higher resolution pics, close-up, or see something in the pics you need more info on, let me know.

--Modessitt

modessitt · « **Reply #105 on:** March 24, 2007, 07:56:02 pm »

And I should have mentioned.....

The left hand side is a mirror image of the right hand side.

So there.....

modessitt · « **Reply #106 on:** March 24, 2007, 08:10:31 pm »

Oh, and to show that is WAS nice at some time (except for some minor coin door damage)

Tailgunner · « **Reply #107 on:** March 25, 2007, 12:17:33 am »

Can you get me a chemical analysis of the grunge layer that's in the bottom?

Okay, that'd be too much information.

Very well done and highly appreciated.

modessitt · « **Reply #108 on:** March 25, 2007, 12:54:20 am »

Quote from: Tailgunner on March 25, 2007, 12:17:33 am

Can you get me a chemical analysis of the grunge layer that's in the bottom?

Ok, now that's funny...

Tailgunner · « **Reply #109 on:** March 25, 2007, 01:59:40 pm »

Could use one more pic, basically a repeat of this one but with the coin doors open. Need the dimension shown in the lower pic as well.

modessitt · « **Reply #110 on:** March 25, 2007, 03:27:28 pm »

ok.....gimme a bit and I'll get 'em

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #111 on:** March 25, 2007, 03:51:07 pm »

Props to modessitt ...

modessitt · « **Reply #112 on:** March 25, 2007, 04:37:20 pm »

Thanks Swedish Chef......

ok.....here ya go....

Here's the pic with the front door open, along with some measurements on the shelf spacing:

And here is the detailed measurements on the upper shelf. I know you just asked for the depth, but I've always been guilty of TMI so.....

Guess there has been one good thing for why it's taken me so long to get around to putting this thing back together....

fixedpigs · « **Reply #113 on:** March 25, 2007, 05:37:14 pm »

excellent...!

my intention was to make a perfect replica...so there is no such thing as too much information...-=)

very good pics and documentation...

Tailgunner · « **Reply #114 on:** March 25, 2007, 09:16:31 pm »

Quote from: fixedpigs on March 25, 2007, 05:37:14 pm

excellent...!

my intention was to make a perfect replica...so there is no such thing as too much information...-=)

very good pics and documentation...

^^^What he said.

I can't imagine there's anything left we can't figure out from here, though if you want to roll the cab onto it's back, take a pic and dimension the bottom panel...

modessitt · « **Reply #115 on:** March 26, 2007, 01:50:49 am »

Seriously?

I guess I could as it's empty....

Just in case it's not a joke, it's exactly the dimensions of the insides of all the walls, as they attach to it, not the other way around, and it is basically suspended inside.

And in case you didn't know, all the corners are sorta dove-tailed with interlocking slots, kinda like Lincoln Logs. If you're old enough to remember those.....

Tailgunner · « **Reply #116 on:** March 26, 2007, 12:49:13 pm »

Quote from: modessitt on March 26, 2007, 01:50:49 am

Seriously?

I guess I could as it's empty....

I wouldn't mind having it documented, it should clear up things and possibly expose something we're missing. Were the monitor and boards in the cab I wouldn't even joke about it. Still, it's a lot to ask and totally you call on doing so, you're already well beyond the call of duty and we should be able to get by without it.

Quote

Just in case it's not a joke, it's exactly the dimensions of the insides of all the walls, as they attach to it, not the other way around, and it is basically suspended inside.

That's why it'd be helpful, some of the numbers don't add up as they're taken from places where there is no hard edge to measure from. The bottom largely defines the basic shape of the cab and unlike the top it doesn't overlap anything.

And in case you didn't know, all the corners are sorta dove-tailed with interlocking slots, kinda like Lincoln Logs. If you're old enough to remember those.....
[/quote]

I'm older then Pong, so yep I remember Lincoln logs.

Building an exact duplicate of this cab will be a stone cold ---smurfette---, just from the complexity of some of the cuts needed. Midway did much the same with the original Pacman cocktails, which is why everyone who want a Midway cocktail builds the simpler Ms. Pac design.

modessitt · « **Reply #117 on:** March 26, 2007, 02:13:26 pm »

Quote

I wouldn't mind having it documented, it should clear up things and possibly expose something we're missing. Were the monitor and boards in the cab I wouldn't even joke about it. Still, it's a lot to ask and totally you call on doing so, you're already well beyond the call of duty and we should be able to get by without it.

That's why it'd be helpful, some of the numbers don't add up as they're taken from places where there is no hard edge to measure from. The bottom largely defines the basic shape of the cab and unlike the top it doesn't overlap anything.

No problem. I'll take care of it tonight when I get home.

modessitt · « **Reply #118 on:** March 26, 2007, 11:24:25 pm »

Sorry it took so long.

Here is the pic, then I'll follow with some explanations:

According to the red lines, the sides of the coin door area slip under the bottom as extra support in the middle. They touch the floor and rise up to be attached to the base, and the base extends between them to be attached to them. Sorry if that sounds confusing.

The white outline of the base extends under (when looking from underneath) these supports and is difficult to measure accurately, so I may be off by as much as 1/8".

The white square on the left is a wooden foot. It measures 2" x 2" x 1 1/2", which is interesting because it is only 1 1/2" high and the base sits 1 3/4" off the floor. There is a hole in the wood so maybe it had a metal foot at some point? Obviously I am missing the other feet and have marked their positions with the circles. Don't know as they need to be exact in placement, but if so, let me know.

The green shows how to properly position the power switch/cord holes. Measure down from the back corner, then out at a 90 degree angle to the center point of the hole.

Anything else?

*Note to self: In the future, when turning a game that you have stripped upside/down, make sure to collect all the loose screws and bolts before turning said game upside/down.*

fixedpigs · « **Reply #119 on:** March 26, 2007, 11:56:58 pm »

fantastic modessitt...!

how far in/up does the bottom panel sit from the ground...?

your documentation is top-notch...-=)

modessitt · « **Reply #120 on:** March 27, 2007, 12:05:41 am »

It sits 1 3/4" above the bottom of the side panels, all the way around. I guess if it's supposed to have metal feet in the wooden feet, then the side panels wouldn't be resting directly on the floor like mine is.

Don't know if this was included in the plans for the sides, but there is an indent in the bottom of the side panels, about 3/8" up and centered in the side wall base. You can kind of see what I mean in the last pic posted.

Tailgunner · « **Reply #121 on:** March 27, 2007, 01:33:08 am »

Quote from: modessitt on March 26, 2007, 11:24:25 pm

Sorry it took so long.

According to the red lines, the sides of the coin door area slip under the bottom as extra support in the middle. They touch the floor and rise up to be attached to the base, and the base extends between them to be attached to them. Sorry if that sounds confusing.

Makes sense considering all the weight it supports, that's probably the most heavily loaded point on the cabinet.

Quote

The white outline of the base extends under (when looking from underneath) these supports and is difficult to measure accurately, so I may be off by as much as 1/8".

The white square on the left is a wooden foot. It measures 2" x 2" x 1 1/2", which is interesting because it is only 1 1/2" high and the base sits 1 3/4" off the floor. There is a hole in the wood so maybe it had a metal foot at some point? Obviously I am missing the other feet and have marked their positions with the circles. Don't know as they need to be exact in placement, but if so, let me know.

I'm sure it had leveling feet at one point, I've yet to see an original cab that shipped without them. I can import the pic and determine the layout for them so we should be good to go.

Quote

The green shows how to properly position the power switch/cord holes. Measure down from the back corner, then out at a 90 degree angle to the center point of the hole.

I understand now why they moved the on/off switch on your cab, you'd have to pull it out from the wall and crawl around on the floor to use the original.

Quote

Anything else?

You got us a great reference pic, some hard numbers to work with, and discovered some details we didn't have before. I'd say it was a resounding sucess. We seriously owe you a beer or 12.

Quote

*Note to self: In the future, when turning a game that you have stripped upside/down, make sure to collect all the loose screws and bolts before turning said game upside/down.*

Find any quarters?

Quote

It sits 1 3/4" above the bottom of the side panels, all the way around.

So the kick panels are flush with the bottom panel?

modessitt · « **Reply #122 on:** March 27, 2007, 01:24:42 pm »

yes, the front kick panels are flush with the bottom panel. Same with the back panel, although there is about a 1/8" gap due to the placement of the back door hinge.

Angry_Radish · « **Reply #123 on:** April 15, 2007, 09:35:35 am »

How gos the plan creation folks?
I'm coming up on a "between projects" time, and am looking for something to try building1

..
Cheers

Tailgunner · « **Reply #124 on:** April 15, 2007, 09:00:49 pm »

I haven't had a whole lot of time to work on it, though I got my biggest commitment out of the way today and with that behind me I should have something ready shortly. Stay tuned.

fixedpigs · « **Reply #125 on:** April 15, 2007, 09:16:53 pm »

and i...unfortunately...will be too busy with bicycles for the next seven months...-=\

ElfShotTheFood · « **Reply #126 on:** May 21, 2007, 03:14:51 pm »

Come on guys. Don't let this thread die. Is anyone still working on these?

ElfShotTheFood · « **Reply #127 on:** May 22, 2007, 10:53:12 am »

Sorry, didn't mean to sound like an insensitive clod. I should have asked " how are these plans coming along"? i completely understand the "real life disease" which keeps us from getting fun things done.

so, keep up the good work

fixedpigs · « **Reply #128 on:** January 22, 2008, 11:39:30 am »

Quote from: modessitt on March 26, 2007, 11:24:25 pm

According to the red lines, the sides of the coin door area slip under the bottom as extra support in the middle. They touch the floor and rise up to be attached to the base, and the base extends between them to be attached to them. Sorry if that sounds confusing.

The white outline of the base extends under (when looking from underneath) these supports and is difficult to measure accurately, so I may be off by as much as 1/8".

modessitt...

is this what you mean(see pic)...?

ps...so it was longer than seven months...but i'm resurrecting this thread...!

spacies · « **Reply #129 on:** January 22, 2008, 03:46:36 pm »

Woohoo.

I saw your name in a thread yesterday and I was meaning to bump this thread.

Good to see you are back into it.

Xb0x3r · « **Reply #130 on:** January 22, 2008, 04:21:58 pm »

Cheffo, Did that cocktail happen to be at the auction at Starburst Coin? Didn't see it there.

Thanks,

Xb0x3r

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #131 on:** January 22, 2008, 05:25:45 pm »

Nope ... mine used to belong to Gravitar (aka Mike Ranger, aka the Williams Guru).

I did see the most recent one at Starburst and was a heartbeat away from bidding on it (then I realized that owning Mike Ranger's Joust Cocktail was pretty damned cool and I shouldn't bogart the cool cocktails).

Havok · « **Reply #132 on:** January 22, 2008, 08:04:57 pm »

I'm so glad you guys are documenting this cab so thoroughly - it's definitely one of my favorites! Maybe after I clear through my projects, I'll start on this. I always did want to put a cocktail cab in my office! Thanks for all the hard work guys!

fixedpigs · « **Reply #133 on:** January 22, 2008, 08:13:41 pm »

my question could be answered by anyone with a joust cocktail cabinet...

i'm looking at you cheffo...

RetroBorg · « **Reply #134 on:** April 09, 2010, 09:47:35 pm »

whatever happened to this project?

fixedpigs · « **Reply #135 on:** April 09, 2010, 09:57:50 pm »

it's hibernating...!

eh97ac · « **Reply #136 on:** April 29, 2011, 06:48:08 pm »

1 year bump

Would love to have the plans and get this C&C'ed

armi0024 · « **Reply #137 on:** April 29, 2011, 09:59:04 pm »

DPTwiz is making these cabinets for any interested

elkameleon · « **Reply #138 on:** April 29, 2011, 11:07:40 pm »

I would love to get my hands on this cab! I'm fluent with SolidWorks, which is perfect for making plans. I would love to personally draw this bad boy up.

Jakobud · « **Reply #139 on:** October 27, 2014, 04:17:29 pm »

You guys interested in a real blast from the past? This is as far as I got on the Joust Cocktail plans ~10 years ago. Everything is to scale. You will need AutoCAD or something compatible to view it.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/64oybz5bck0mghv/joust_cocktail.dwg?dl=0

ThatArtGuy · « **Reply #140 on:** October 30, 2015, 06:33:54 pm »

Anyone have a definitive woodworking plan for this? Please?

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