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Fixing clearcoat damage
shardian:
--- Quote from: DrewKaree on September 27, 2006, 10:32:48 pm ---
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If it's something you bolted on because it's teh kewl, go ahead and give bicycleboy's advice a shot. [/quote]
No, I am proud to say I have never bolted on one of those tin can spoilers on ANY of my cars...although I was sorely tempted in HS. ;D I have also never put a "weed-eater" muffler on any cars either. I don't know why some kids think that a car that sounds like an eternal fart is a good thing. :laugh2:
It is the stock spoiler just like the one in the pictures of the link I provided.
ChadTower:
The best is when a weed eater muffler backfires because the car barely runs. It's like a loaf of bread breaking the sound barrier.
Brax:
--- Quote from: shardian on September 27, 2006, 04:19:39 pm ---The spoiler on my car is clear coated, and the clearcoat is poppin off all over the place. the exposed maroon paint looks dull, but is in tact. So, you are saying I can scrap the bubbling clear coat lightly, then feather the clearcoat down to make a smooth transisiton from existing CC to paint. Then extremely lightly sand everthing to achieve a color blend. Then recoat everything with CC and polish like a mad man. Is this correct? I could care less if it doesn't work. It is worth a shot. If it fails then I can just sand and repaint the whole thing.
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It won't even take that much polishing. I'd use 2 or 3 layers of clear minimum, sanding with 1000 grit between each layer and then finishing up with the polishing compound. I did the same repair on the roof of my Daytona and it worked fine. Once you spray your clear, you'll get a rough dust like finish between the new clear and the existing clear. The polishing compound will remove that when you apply it. You're essentially blending the new clear into the existing clear.
To the naysayers: Gee, what a miracle if it works because nobody on the planet has ever made a clearcoat repair before. ::)
ChadTower:
Just put duct tape on it.
Brax:
--- Quote from: DrewKaree on September 27, 2006, 10:32:48 pm ---Say, are they still painting vintage bikes with catalyzed polyurethane? That'd be great if they were, so we'd know that rattle-can enamel would definitely work, instead of guesstimating.....what kinda primer do you use to make those two dissimilar products work well together?
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The most exotic paint I've come across to date is a two-stage Dupont Imron. I usually use an enamel for repairs. (enamel also comes in the pearl colours some european frame manufacturers use.) I restore steel lugged frames so dissimilar paints aren't an issue since I can sand down to bare metal between the lugs, use an etching primer, enamel colour coat and then the clear.
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