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Newbie Q's - please be gentle!
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Tiger-Heli:

--- Quote from: Kremmit on September 13, 2006, 09:57:42 pm ---I was ASSuming that he was staying with the same computer.  I guess I consider the processor to be one of the integral parts of the computer, I didn't even consider changing it out.  But you're right, a faster processor is more important than extra RAM.

--- End quote ---
Well, from his original post:
<quote=japangreg>
Is upping the ram to 256 going to make a difference, or should I just go for a new processor?
</quote=japangreg>
But let me also clarify that I'm basically talking about a machine swap rather than either a memory or processor upgrade - i.e. depending on the mobo, he could probably swap out the PII 400 for maybe a PII 650 (if they made those), but he could also pick up a 1.8 Ghz Duron mobo/processor/memory combo for very little more money.

--- Quote ---I'll also agree with the button and joy reccomendations so far- microswitch buttons and Happ Supers or Competitions.  If Street Fighter is the game that sets the standard for you, then those are the parts you'll feel most comfortable on.

--- End quote ---
Do you know if I was correct about Supers or P360's being better for SF and Comps being better for MK?
japangreg:
Hey guys. Thanks again for the info.

I've got a PM in to Divemaster asking for a quote on some gear (Shardian, you should have one too). I've made the rounds on eBay and found TorandoTerry - have more research to do, but this is a great start. Thanks again!

Once the parts all arrive and I have the wood for my CP, what's the most common progression? Logically, I'm thinking I should layout the controls, drill the holes and mount the hardware, temporarily wire the thing up and test it out. Once I have the layout I'm happy with, then I worry about overlays, lexan, etc.

Is it possible to 'test mount' joysticks and buttons? Wouldn't I need to route out space for the joystick plates in order to try them? I've seen some people use cardboard mock-ups: is this a reliable method for determining cp layout?

Never having done any wiring before, will I be able to use quick connects to temporarily wire the controls? Can they be detached once I am finished testing and want to remove the controls?

Over the weekend, my future brother in law and I stumbled across an arcade cab for sale in Costco (can't remember what they were calling it - Ultimate Arcade or something like that) A few rounds of Street Fighter later, and my desire for building my own cab was fired up big time. :) The interesting thing about this cab was the monitor: instead of being mounted vertically (almost perpendicular to the cp) it was tilted way back so that it was almost aligned with the cp. It was a different feel, but not unpleasant. My brother in law said he might like that for his build.

Has anyone ever seen/done this in a home brew MAME cab? I have 2 old 19" CRT monitors I'm planning on using in my build (depending on what I can find cheap this black Friday) and was planning on doing a simple shelf to hold it in place. Trying to tilt it back 45 degrees or so is a new challenge. Would that put too much strain on the casing or cause other problems I might not be able to anticipate?

As always, thanks for any and all help.
Tiger-Heli:

--- Quote from: japangreg on September 19, 2006, 11:16:12 am ---Once the parts all arrive and I have the wood for my CP, what's the most common progression?

--- End quote ---
Lay parts out on floor.  Move joysticks around imagining they are connected.  Get bored, drink beer, play MAME on keyboard.
Hook controls up to test panel and connect to computer.  Play MAME on that.  Drink beer, think about rest of project.
Build arcade cabinet exterior over several months between drinking beer and playing MAME on "test setup".
Finally set up monitor and computer and controls on arcade cabinet.  Play games on real cabinet.
Life is good - drink beer.
Think about doing artwork and stuff for arcade cabinet, but it works the way it is.  Play more games, drink more beer.  Plan on finishing arcade cabinet sometime.  Play more games, drink more beer.  Tell self that someday you'll finish arcade cabinet . . .

Oh - you meant how SHOULD you do it next, not the most common progression?  :cheers:

First step is to mock up everything and make sure it is the way you want it BEFORE you cut holes in the expensive wood that you just bought.


--- Quote ---Is it possible to 'test mount' joysticks and buttons? Wouldn't I need to route out space for the joystick plates in order to try them? I've seen some people use cardboard mock-ups: is this a reliable method for determining cp layout?

--- End quote ---
Possible and recommended.  You can use cardboard or peg board, hardboard, etc.  both are cheaper than MDF or plywood.  As far as routing, depends on how you are going to mount the joysticks, but if you were going to route out 3/4-inch MDF to leave 3/8-inch under the joysticks, you can test mount them 1/4" below 1/8" hardboard and get the same effect, etc.

--- Quote ---Never having done any wiring before, will I be able to use quick connects to temporarily wire the controls? Can they be detached once I am finished testing and want to remove the controls?

--- End quote ---
Yes, most people use quick connects, and I would recommend it.  They can be detached, or you can just leave them on the microswitches and remove the micros (for buttons, for example).

--- Quote ---Over the weekend, my future brother in law and I stumbled across an arcade cab for sale in Costco (can't remember what they were calling it - Ultimate Arcade or something like that)

--- End quote ---
You don't mean UltraCade?  (That's a dirty word around here . . .)

--- Quote ---Trying to tilt it back 45 degrees or so is a new challenge. Would that put too much strain on the casing or cause other problems I might not be able to anticipate?

--- End quote ---
I wouldn't think it would, as long as it is supported well.
RandyT:

--- Quote from: Tiger-Heli on September 13, 2006, 01:46:08 pm ---RandyT at Groovygamegear and Andy at Ultimarc (as long as they're blue) sell a line of buttons and joysticks, but they are not true Happ parts.

--- End quote ---

Actually, our buttons are indeed Genuine HAPP buttons and ship with Cherry micros. 

RandyT
Kremmit:

--- Quote from: Tiger-Heli on September 14, 2006, 06:36:08 am ---Do you know if I was correct about Supers or P360's being better for SF and Comps being better for MK?

--- End quote ---

Nope, I don't really play fighters myself.  I know they both shipped with Happ sticks, but I couldn't tell you which flavor.
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