Main > Consoles
Xbox mod
Silver:
--- Quote from: ChadTower on December 06, 2006, 08:16:09 pm ---
I definitely cracked a solder joint on a pin. When I pressed on it it went down. I'm fixing it now.
--- End quote ---
I was right - looks like my box did not survive the journey back home. Probably (hopefully) just the chip coming loose off the pinheader but we shall see! Otherwise could be a re-soldering job for me too - D0 looked iffy, but didn't want to tug-test that one with just 30AWG wire...
ChadTower:
Now I get 5v lit again, but no 3.3v lit, and the switch PCB is out now. This is dumb.
I need an LPC pinout so I can start using the DMM instead of those LEDs.
EDIT: here
EDIT2: If that stupid chart is right, I get 3.28v on the 5v pin and almost nothing on the 3.3v pins.
ChadTower:
That effing pinout can't be right. Maybe it's not for 1.6.
ChadTower:
I think it is... but for 1.6 5v is coming in externally. Pin 9 should pull 3.3v from pin 15 which pulls it from C702 nearby. I'm getting buzz from 9 to 15 but not from 15 to C702. A bit of solder touchup and now I get buzz from 15 to C702 and from C702 thru to 9. So if I put this thing back in I should have 3.3v back.
I looked at the header pins for the switch connector and sure enough one of those hair thin pins was bent. So that explains the suddenly dead switch.
:dizzy:
ChadTower:
Put the chip back in, now I have LEDs for 5v and 3.3v. I get red switch LED if I power up quick press from power button. I get blue switch LED if I power up quick press from eject button. I get purple switch LED if I power up pressing both.
Something tells me the power/eject scenarios are reversed. I have to look into that.
What I ended up having to do to solve the connectivity issue is find about 5 different partially labeled LPC rebuild images from either side of the board. I pieced them together so I could buzz out the entire set of connections on both sides, found the ones that didn't buzz, and fixed them. There's a lot of info out there but few places where there is enough in one place.
EDIT: I do sorta have the power/eject button wrong. Apparently if you push the power button "long press" it will automatically boot to the factory bios and the red LED means "chip disabled". Its definition of "long press" is about .3 seconds, though. You have to really tap the power button to get the chip enabled with it.