[Sigh...] Brand new 27" billabs fried? Replacement chassis replaced! Easy!

[Boz]

Normally when I power this arcade monitor on, you hear a series of pops and snaps indicative of resolution changing and the thing coming to life. This normally happens regardless of whether a signal is detected or not.

This doesn't happen anymore. I power on the monitor and can hear an extremely soft clicking at a regular rythym about 3-seconds apart. It happens somewhere near [what I think is] the power supply. (I dunno. There are a couple of big caps and a heat fin.) The sound is extremely faint and you have to be very quiet to hear it.

Yesterday, I was screwing around with getting drivers installed for the Arcade VGA card nearly all day. (Yeah. I read the FAQ)

I had enough of the AVGA card for the day and re-inserted my PCI adapter (the Billabs is a multi-rez monitor). When I went to use the "Quick res" tool installed with the AVGA drivers to make sure the display to 640 x 480 x 60 (i.e. I clicked the util in the task bar tray, then clicked the above resolution), the monitor displayed what looked like an old cable TV "scrambled-channel" stuff, along with the standard "disconnected" graphic to say that there was no video signal.

For now I'm a bit lost and pretty frustrated with the AVGA. Native resolution and refresh is pretty important to me, but it's not worth the HUGE bucks I shelled out for this monitor.

I'm going to call Billabs later today and will post a better picture of where I'm hearing the clicking.

I don't know if you guys can help or not. I'm pretty apprehensive about making any repairs to something that could potentially kill me.



EDIT: title change

[Ken Layton]

If this is under warranty certainly I would call them and complain.

[grantspain]

sounds like the monitor can't find the correct resolution,it sounds like the graphic card to me-not the rule but if you get a picture on a monitor its usually running o.k-if you get a scrambled picture its usually something to do with the frequency of the input signal-is this a multi frequency monitor with an svga input plug?if so try a standard vga card and see if you can get a stable picture

[SirPeale]

Turn up your screen control.  Do you get a white raster?

The ticking almost sounds like your HOT is blown.  That happens on a U5000.

[Boz]

I didn't get home with enough time to call Billabs today, so I'll have to try them tomorrow from work. I investigated a bit further and found out where the "clicking" is coming from and what it sounds like. The two attached pics give a better idea for where the 3-second clicking rythym is coming from (the "bordered" area in both pics). The sound happens very quickly, but if you listen closely, you can hear a short "hum" or "buzz" that starts off very low in pitch and crescendo's to a click. If I were to compare it to something it sounds like the hum of a transformer box in your backyard (Here in Phoenix they're on the ground) only it isn't a constant volume or pitch. It get's slightly louder and slightly higher in pitch until you hear the "click".

My uneducated opinion is that it's trying to power up, but the capacitor is loosing the charge somewhere. (Hell, I don't have the slightest clue what I'm talking about)

Any advice on what I should tell the folks over at Billabs when I get them on the horn? This monitor was so expensive that if I can't get it fixed on their dime, I may just abandon my project out of depression.

sounds like the monitor can't find the correct resolution,it sounds like the graphic card to me-not the rule but if you get a picture on a monitor its usually running o.k

I get no picture, no power up, no nothin'.

!!!!WARNING!!!!
Really big pics.

[Boz]

Pic 2

[AndyWarne]

I agree with Peale. Almost certainly the horizontal output transistor. Monitor fault.
The controller in the monitor should not allow any incorrect resolution to be displayed so it's unlikely to have had any external cause.
Andy

[grantspain]

the clicking is coming from the relay,has this monitor got onscreen display-if so dis your svga input and see if the osd operates correctly

[Negativecreep0]

sorry to hear that ,I was just about to buy one of these monitors too, maybe Ill wait till my arcade is fully assembled that way if anything does go wrong warranty will hopefully still be valid...........

[Boz]

So when I read Peale's response, I was thinkin' "Ok, so something that's hot (temperature or electrically) isn't working." I didn't put two and two together when Andy said horizontal output transistor.

So... Good news.

I got Ben on the phone from Billabs (actually Surfnote, Inc. out of Georgia. Billabs distro in the US). He's sending me out a chassis, no questions asked. Didn't even ask what I was doing with the monitor at the time it stopped working.

Although, I'm honestly NOT looking forward to replacing this thing for two reasons. Discharging the anode and removing the neck board. Neither of these steps impress me in the least. Could turn out that it'll be much easier than I think. I just don't wanna screw up the tube where the neck board is attached.

sorry to hear that ,I was just about to buy one of these monitors too, maybe Ill wait till my arcade is fully assembled that way if anything does go wrong warranty will hopefully still be valid...........

I dunno. You kind of need to have the monitor around to build the supports for it just right. This could have been just a fluke with my monitor too. He's fedex'ing me the new chassis. I wouldn't count them out of your short list just yet.

I agree with Peale. Almost certainly the horizontal output transistor. Monitor fault.

BTW, I was honestly just recalling the very, very last thing that I did before the monitor went 'blink'. I wasn't blaming your app, Andy.

[grantspain]

changing a chassis is easy,just don't do it when it's got power to it -all modern monitors i have worked on have an h.t discharge circuit so you don't get a shock,all you need is common sense and be careful of the tube neck and always take a pic of all your plugs so you have a guide to work from and most of all don't be afraid

[SirPeale]

Although, I'm honestly NOT looking forward to replacing this thing for two reasons. Discharging the anode and removing the neck board. Neither of these steps impress me in the least. Could turn out that it'll be much easier than I think. I just don't wanna screw up the tube where the neck board is attached.

The anode is dead easy. 

Just take some wire, bare the end back about three inches.  Wrap it around a flathead screwdriver.  Attach the other end to the THIN wire going around the tube.  Slide the screwdriver underneath the anode cap.  Did it pop?  Good.  Remove the cap.  Did it not pop?  Good.  Remove the anode cap.

I actually made a tool to do this (soldered the wire to the screwdriver with an alligator clip at the end) but I doubt you'll want to ruin one of your screwdrivers.  But you could just buy one from the dollar store.  Don't need anything fancy.

[tpapa]

Hi guys....I can appreciate your situation. I have another Billabs tale. I purchased the same monitor you did and it worked fine for about 3 weeks. Then while windows was shutting down, it started making a screeching sound and the distinct smell of smoke from an electrical component could be detected. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and the screen was distorted (like the pincushion had gone crazy). The OSD would not fix it. I too talked to Ben at Billabs in Atlanta and he said they would ship a chasis board up to me in Charlotte. Fearing that I would electrocute myself in attempting to replace it I drove it down to Atlanta and had one of their techs take a look. He replaced the chasis board, turned on the unit and the same thing happened to him, smoke and all. After finding another board all looked ok and I took it back home, somewhat dubious that it was really fixed. Of course a week later the same thing happened. They refuse to ship me another monitor although they did offer to stop by in Charlotte on their way home from a sales call in Greensboro and replace it.  I guess this is standard procedure for monitor vendors. They acted like since it's an open frame monitor, I should repair it via a phone tutor session. Seems like since it's been such a short time they would just box up another and send it to me.

TP

[Kevin Mullins]

The anode is dead easy. 

  

Ok, couldn't help myself. Thought that was kinda funny in a sick sorta way.

Sorry.... carry on.

[Boz]

I received the new chassis yesterday via UPS. It took about a week to get here, but there was a weekend and a holiday in between the time that I called in and received the part(s). Oddly, included with this package was an entire neckboard assembly. I'm not sure if this is supposed to be included with the main board, but given all the wires connected between the two, I'm kind of glad it is.

I'll be doing the replacement tomorrow with a friend. I could probably do it on my own, but I wanna make sure there are more than just one set of eyes on all the simple stuff I could miss. If you've followed my cabinet build, you'll agree this is the best option for me. 

[grantspain]

these monitors sound like a complete load of rubbish,remind me never to buy one-i have never had this sort of trouble with a monitor in my entire working life(with the exception of a hantarex mtc 9000 that is),their tech boys should be working overtime to sort out the problems because it ain't you lot its their crappy design,it can't handle the frequency change

[Boz]

Actually, I purchased this one over many others because of the positive feedback it had received here. My problem could have been a fluke. Either that or I'm just trying to convince myself I didn't blow a wad of cash on something substandard. I have, however, read several posts of those who truly do like it.

Edit: typo

[the_77x42]

I purchased one and have used it for about 30min so far just to test it out. Haven't put it in the cab yet. So far the results are more than I could have imagined. Time will tell if it is reliable -- I sincerely hope it is because I had it brought up into Canada...

I cannot comment on reliability, but man, everything else about this monitor is PERFECT. Reliability, however, is a huge factor.

[Boz]

I finally took the time to install the replacement chassis from Billabs today. Surprisingly the swap took less than 30 minutes to do. Of course I took an hour soldering a piece of wire with two aligator clips that I probably didn't even need to use since the monitor has been off since the first post in this thread.

So, for those who have trouble with their Billabs monitor, take it from someone who had never swapped a monitor chassis until today. It's really a breeze to do.

Now... the ultimarc AVGA on the other hand is turning out to be a nightmare I can't even begin to get into.