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| grantspain:
peale is correct about practice makes perfect,it took me about 2 months as a trainee to get things right-the art to soldering is not adding to much heat to any one area at any one time,for instance if you wish to solder standard wire to a pin first tin the wire by holding the iron on then adding the solder until it flows around the bare wire then do the same with the pin then it just a case holding the iron the the two until you get flow on both and hey presto a perfect joint-but the important thing is to know when enough heat is enough and that only comes with practice and experience :cheers: |
| hypernova:
--- Quote from: ChadTower on August 26, 2006, 02:24:24 pm --- He'll get horrible joints anyway if the wires aren't solidly joined before soldering. They'll have zero mechanical strength. --- End quote --- They work for the most part. The only trouble I've had is the LED joints with the resistors. Originally just laid them flat against each other, and a few kept breaking apart. Finally made a small U hook on the end of each, and haven't had problems since. So I'll be happy with goose pooping for the time being (because of the inexpensiveness of the items being soldered together.) On a side note, I've chipped 2/3 PS1s. That was really my first experience soldering. Not too shabby, I should say for a beginner with zero practice. I'm probably NOT the poster child for soldering. ;D Oh, and when I soldered the PS1s, you wanna know what I used? One of those woodburning things (iron?) from a woodburning set I received years upon years ago. |
| MaximRecoil:
--- Quote from: hypernova on August 26, 2006, 08:00:21 pm ---Oh, and when I soldered the PS1s, you wanna know what I used? One of those woodburning things (iron?) from a woodburning set I received years upon years ago. --- End quote --- About 7 years ago, I had a VCR remote control that worked intermittently, so I took it apart and saw that the fillet on one of the posts from the battery terminals was cracked. I used a flat bladed screw driver heated with a propane torch and used quickly before it cooled off to reflow the joint. It was far from my first time soldering, but it had all been at work with a nice Metcal and I hadn't gotten around to buying even a cheap iron to use at home yet. The remote still works fine today (it was new in '88), not that I have much use for a VCR anymore. |
| hypernova:
I'm surprised the VCR still works after nearly 20 years. :) |
| MaximRecoil:
--- Quote from: hypernova on August 27, 2006, 12:07:13 pm ---I'm surprised the VCR still works after nearly 20 years. :) --- End quote --- Yeah, it works fine; never had any problems with it. It is a GE and everything is on the 2x4 sized remote. It is kind of irritating in that respect, because the only controls on the VCR itself are play/pause, stop/eject, record, power and channel select >:(. It makes having a functioning remote even more important than usual, particularly if you want to FF, RW or adjust the tracking. Another thing that is irritating about it is that it doesn't have any composite inputs, only composite outputs. However, the picture quality has always been really good for VHS and it has the clearest, steadiest still-frame mode of any VCR I've ever seen, along with frame advance and slow-motion. |
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