Hantarex Polo 33" - how do i get it to properly display from my PC/DC/XBOX?

[eastbayarb]

I just aquired a showcase cabinet with Hantarex Polo 33" inch monitor. It has a VGA cable wired to it, but for some reason, when I connect my PC/XBOX/DC to it, the screen is scrambled.

The guy I got it from said the monitor may need a video amplifier but I don't know what that is or where to get one to get my monitor to work. I have attatched a picture of the monitor's control panel (mounted in the monitor stand on my showcase cabinet) so maybe tweaking these controls somehow would make it work?

Any help is appreciated (and yes, I did a thorough search both here and google).

[grantspain]

is it a polo2 auto freq,polo2 manual freq,polostar-have you tried the horizontal hold yet on that remote board?

[eastbayarb]

I don't know what version polo monitor it is..I will check and ajust the horizntal sync tonnight.I really wanna be able to use my xbox,dreamcast, and PC with this monitor (i have the joysticks and buttons wired to PSX pads, and those are connected to each system via adaptors). DC  and PC have native vga support while Xbox will be connected to th VGA via a component to VGA transcoder (VD-Z3) which works very well.

is it a polo2 auto freq,polo2 manual freq,polostar-have you tried the horizontal hold yet on that remote board?

[grantspain]

its sound like a polo 2 auto vga(it will have a label on the monitor psu shield that tells you everything),i reckon its just an adjustment on the horizontal pots-good luck

[eastbayarb]

Ok, after adjusting some settings on the monitor board, I finally got it to somewhat properly display (I am using a dreamcast with VGA adaptor for quicker testing), but when I start up, the screen is dark, then when it finally boots, the screen is split (I have attatched a photo to give you a better idea).

Any way to correct this problem?

Thanx

[eastbayarb]

Ok, after adjusting some settings on the monitor board, I finally got it to somewhat properly display (I am using a dreamcast with VGA adaptor for quicker testing), but when I start up, the screen is dark, then when it finally boots, the screen is split (I have attatched a photo to give you a better idea).

Any way to correct this problem?

Thanx

SORRY FOR THE DOUBLE POST, MY BROWSER SCREWED UP!

[grantspain]

need that info on the label first,the fact you have 2 pictures makes is look like the monitor is on the wrong frequency

[eastbayarb]

I will post info on the label tonight...how do I change the frequency?

need that info on the label first,the fact you have 2 pictures makes is look like the monitor is on the wrong frequency

[grantspain]

well if its a polo 2 svga it should auto sync(maybe a little adjustment)-but what worries me is yours is showing 2 pictures which means its operating at 25khz,now i have heard early polo2 require some jumpers moved so i hope its that,but first i could do with some pics of the chassis from all angles-another thing to do is hook up your pc just to check its not some sort of issue of compatibility with the xbox converter-i know the guys at hantarex well so i can also contact them if we get stuck-humour me try adjusting the horizontal size pot(you can pull one of the adjusters out of one of the other pots)

[eastbayarb]

grantspain,

I took a couple of pictures after removing the back part of the monitor. One is a back view of the insides, and the other is a side view of the insides. I don't see a sticker anywhere on the monitor that says the model number.  I tried my Dreamcast, XBOX, and PC, but they all have the split screen problem (picture otherwise looks great).

I have an even bigger problem now. I had the monitor with the Dreamcast on and I started adjusting the knobs and all of a sudden, the monitor just turned off! I immediately turned off the cab, waited several minutes, turned the cab back on, but the monitor has no picture (I don't even hear it on)! HELP!

[grantspain]

thats a polo 1 15khz only monitor it won

[eastbayarb]

thats a polo 1 15khz only monitor it won

[grantspain]

not as simple as a fuse im afraid,the clicking you hear is the power supply of the monitor in trip mode,this is because the horizontal output transistor is blown(caused by having the wrong frequency signal fed to it)-you need to replace the transistor(its probably a BU508AF),this will bring your monitor back to life then you need to look at options e.g run from pc only using arcade vga card or a vga to cga converter-i can talk you through the repair and you don't have to remove the anode cap,its a very simple repair if you follow my instructions to the letter and are careful whilst removing the monitor chassis to a point where the transistor is accessible.
the polo range monitors come in 4 types-polo,polo2,polo3 and polostar only the polostar and polo2 svga run from standard vga inputs-if i had seen your label on your first post i would have told you not to feed it a vga signal,i know that don't make you feel better but you should be able to sort this out-also have a moan at the person you bought it from,there is no way that  monitor should ever have been described as a vga arcade monitor

[eastbayarb]

not as simple as a fuse im afraid,the clicking you hear is the power supply of the monitor in trip mode,this is because the horizontal output transistor is blown(caused by having the wrong frequency signal fed to it)-you need to replace the transistor(its probably a BU508AF),this will bring your monitor back to life then you need to look at options e.g run from pc only using arcade vga card or a vga to cga converter-i can talk you through the repair and you don't have to remove the anode cap,its a very simple repair if you follow my instructions to the letter and are careful whilst removing the monitor chassis to a point where the transistor is accessible.
the polo range monitors come in 4 types-polo,polo2,polo3 and polostar only the polostar and polo2 svga run from standard vga inputs-if i had seen your label on your first post i would have told you not to feed it a vga signal,i know that don't make you feel better but you should be able to sort this out-also have a moan at the person you bought it from,there is no way that  monitor should ever have been described as a vga arcade monitor

Ok, I am ready to repair this thing. I have already been able to unscrew the part of the monitor chassis to where I can work on it. Just tell me what to do...

[grantspain]

o.k its midnight here in spain and time for bed so what i'm gonna do is get my polo schematics tomorrow at work and i will step by step take you through all the stages of repair so until tomorrow hasta luego

[eastbayarb]

Thank you!

my direct email adress is eastbayarb@gmail.com

[grantspain]

i am going to post my help on this forum as it could help people in the future,i'm gonna do it tomorrow as its my day off and i can concentrate a bit better-just remember you will need;soldering iron,desoldering tool(solder sucker),solder,a meter is very handy and of course a bu508a or bu508af transistor to replace the faulty one,and heat conductive grease to do this professionally

[eastbayarb]

where would i get those bu508a or bu508af transistors you are talking about?

[grantspain]

i am not familiar with stores in the u.s but i guess somewhere like radioshack(if they still exist)-but wait until tomorrow as if you have a meter you can read whether the h.o.t is short or not,i will give you all the info

[grantspain]

the first thing we need to do is access the monitor safely;(using pic 1 as a guide)
switch off machine and unplug from mains
disconnect the rgb signal,power in and the remote adjustment board plug
unscrew the 2 cross head screws that hold the chassis to the frame(its the 2 you can see in the first picture)
there are 2 more plugs to remove now,the first is the degauss(its the 2 pin plug on the far left) and the yoke plug(green plug of 4 wires on the right hand front of the chassis)-use a flashlight and if not sure then post pics marking the ones you believe are correct.
once these plugs are removed you need to remove the neck card,(first remove the metal bar across the neck card on the frame)to do this you have gently hole each side of the neck card and pull back with equal force slowly-once the card is removed you will see a black wire with a spade type connector that goes to the crt earth,remove this
this now enables you to move the chassis,push the chassis gently up and towards yourself and it will move off the locating lugs at the front then you move your chassis to the right and out of the frame or being careful angle it through the centre of the frame-ALWAYS REMEMBER TO KEEP AWAY FROM THE NECK OF THE TUBE AS IT IS VERY DELICATE AND IF YOU CRACK IT YOU WILL NEED A NEW TUBE.
the only wire now connecting your chassis to the tube will be the h.t lead(thick red wire that goes from the flyback to the anode cap on the tube),now you can find a chair or table to place the chassis on whilst you work on it(remember you can only move a little way because of the h.t lead still being connected,sometimes there is a cable tie on the ht lead that stops you moving the chassis far-you can snip that off.
now you should have the chassis in a position where everything is accessible-you need to look for transistor number T114,this is the horizontal output transistor-you can locate this by looking at the top(component side) of the chassis on the right side you will see the flyback shield(a silver metal surround that acts a heat sink),on the right hand side of that you will see a large transistor that is spring clip held to that shield-this is the h.o.t and you will see the transistor number T114 written on the board next to it.
to meter this transistor set your meter to ohms and put your black probe in the common socket of the meter and your red probe in the Va/c,Vd/c,ohms socket-place one probe on the metal shield and the other on the center leg of the transistor if its reads short(let me know the reading) then the h.o.t is short and needs replacing-LETS GET TO THIS POINT FIRST BEFORE WE GO ON,and remember take your time and be careful if something does not want to move there is a reason,also post pics at any time if you are not sure-good luck

[eastbayarb]

thanks for the guide, but do you have any pictures to support this? By meter, I am assuming you mean a multimeter?

I hope I won't have to install a cap kit

[grantspain]

i take some pics tomorrow ar work,meter yes multimeter-its not gonna need a cap kit,the most you will need is the h.o.t and possibly a resistor

[StephenH]

1) If it is 15Khz, and you want to connect it to a PC, use an ArcadeVGA card

2) To connect a Dreamcast, you make a cable to its connector, and ground of the pins on it:  http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:dreamcastav


3) To connect an X-Box, the wiring is similar to Dreamcast: 
http://www.gamesx.com/avpinouts/xbox.htm

[eastbayarb]

BUMP

monitor for sale $150 pickup only in Bay Area, California if anyone wants it. It is currently mounted in my showcase cab, but I don't have the means to repair it at present time.

email eastbayarb@gmail.com DO NOT PM!

[Sergioscabone]

Hello guys.
I’ll be greatfull If anybody can help me with this.

  I have a Hantarex polo/2 34” SVGA monitor, witch came with a vga connector.
  I use this monitor connected to a Sega Naomi, set at 31khz, and works ok.
  I plug this monitor to a Toshiba netbook with windows xp, and set the resolution to 800x600, and guess what? IT WORKS FINE!!
  So I buy a new computer that can run demul to use it. Set the resolution to 800x600 but nothing...
  I try:
  800x600 60hz
  800x600 56hz
  640x480 60hz
  640x480 67hz
  640x480 72hz
  640x480 75hz
But non of it works...

Pictures:
https://imgur.com/gallery/AvfKvXc

  Anybody can help me with this?
(By the way, my new computer it is an Athlon 3000 g - Asrock a320m-Hdv)
Thanks!