Author Topic: Ultimarc 360 Joysticks - my review (Read 43209 times)

Dreamwriter · « **on:** August 23, 2006, 01:01:20 am »

I ordered a pair of Ultimarc 360's a couple months ago, shortly after they were released - I was building myself a fullsize arcade machine, and didn't want a Frankenpanel, so I figured the 360's one-size-fits-all stance sounded good. So I've had these for a while now. (later I decided to make a little desktop arcade machine instead, but that's another story).

First of all, I just love the feel of the joysticks. My best sticks before these was a pair of X-Arcades from an X-Arcade Duo, and comparing the two joysticks are like comparing Cadillacs to AMC Gremlins: no contest. I love the lack of a click, even the lack of feeling the sticks "lock into place". It's perfectly smooth movement all the way from edge to edge. I didn't get the stiffer springs, and I don't miss them - I can see if I played Sinistar a lot I might want the better fine control the stiffer spring might provide, but as it is they handle great for the games I play (though to be honest I *am* used to pushing very lightly on game-console analogue sticks to get true analogue control from them).

I've used the 360's in a lot of games: analogue, 2 way, 4 way, and 8 way, and they work great in all types. A few joystick games I play especially a lot are Star Wars, Terminator 2, Frogger, Ms. PacMan, Super Dodgeball, Super Street Fighter 2 Turbo, and Popeye, and they all control great with the 360's. Oh, and I did create my own map - I created a QBert layout, that only allowed diagonals and had them send the non-diagonals, so I could play Q-Bert as it was meant to be played without rotating the joystick; it was an easy and mostly intuitive process.

And finally, on the business side of things, I did have a couple issues that required support, one hardware problem and a (sort-of) software problem, and they were both handled very quickly and painlessly, especially the software problem, which was solved in just one day (today, in fact!) Andy's a great guy, and I'd definitely do business with him again.

In conclusion, I'd definitely recommend these sticks to anyone who wants an all-in-one solution. Sure, a 4-way limiter would make PacMan more accurate, and a rotated joystick would be more realistic for Q-bert. But if you don't have the space for that or want to deal with it (or the cost of buying all those joysticks), the Ultimarc 360's are the way to go.

leapinlew · « **Reply #1 on:** August 23, 2006, 02:18:31 pm »

Cool - thanks for the review!

Can you compare them to any other controller you've used before?

For example:

Stiffness = about the same as ____ joystick
Throw = how many degrees? or similar to what stick?
How high does it sit off your control panel and what kind of CP do you have?

I know feel is very hard to capture and all I can compare it to is other joysticks so I'm really interested in how you thought it handled.

Dreamwriter · « **Reply #2 on:** August 28, 2006, 01:59:07 am »

Well, the only controllers I've used before are X-Arcade joysticks and console controllers, so you see my problem

OK, I have used controllers in the arcade, but not enough to really be able to compare against them. As for what kind of CP I have, it's for my little bitty arcade machine - here's the newest prototype pic:

Texasmame · « **Reply #3 on:** August 28, 2006, 12:08:31 pm »

Quote from: Dreamwriter on August 23, 2006, 01:01:20 am

Oh, and I did create my own map - I created a QBert layout, that only allowed diagonals and had them send the non-diagonals, so I could play Q-Bert as it was meant to be played without rotating the joystick; it was an easy and mostly intuitive process.

Could you explain that a bit more in detail. . .

Dreamwriter · « **Reply #4 on:** August 28, 2006, 04:21:29 pm »

Yeah, by default Mame's Q-Bert controls assume you've got a normal 4-way joystick rotated 45 degrees on the CP - the arcade did it that way. So that way, pressing diagonally down-right is actually pressing the "right" joystick switch. The mapping software for the Ultra-360's lets you set any joystick motion to return any direction, so I created a map that does that - I filled the diagonally down-right squares to return a joystick-right signal, down-left squares to return a joystick-down signal, etc. So when I want to play Q-bert, I load that map up, and it controls perfectly.

Texasmame · « **Reply #5 on:** September 04, 2006, 04:39:23 pm »

Ah, gotcha.

About the 4 way Pac-Man accuracy - is it really bad? Like Atari 5200 bad?

J.Max · « **Reply #6 on:** September 04, 2006, 07:00:58 pm »

I just got one of these too. The 4 way accuracy is quite good, but there's no restrictor plate, so if you're used to a hardware restricted joystick you may not like this. (You can put a restrictor plate on this, but that sort of ruins the whole idea of this stick.) Q*Bert works very well, and Sinistar is awesome. It's definitely worth the money if you want an all-in-one solution.

I forgot...it's also really neice having the button encoder built into the stick. Very easy to get up and get going.

Dreamwriter · « **Reply #7 on:** September 10, 2006, 07:39:53 pm »

Yeah, using the 4-way mapping it runs PacMan great. I play Ms.PacMan with the speedup chip a lot, and with a standard 8-way joystick I'm always getting killed because I press a diagonal and it gets ignored or I go the wrong direction, but this thing just works perfectly. A dedicated 4-way stick with limiter doesn't necessarily make the controls easier to use or better, just more accurate to the original arcade machine, where it wouldn't let you press diagonally at all.

Note that I first had problems with the 4-directional games, but Ultimarc released a new firmware fixing the problem the same day that I emailed them about it (this was one of my two support issues).

destructor · « **Reply #8 on:** September 13, 2006, 04:51:04 am »

Quote from: J.Max on September 04, 2006, 07:00:58 pm

The 4 way accuracy is quite good, but there's no restrictor plate, so if you're used to a hardware restricted joystick you may not like this. (You can put a restrictor plate on this, but that sort of ruins the whole idea of this stick.)

Did you use Sanwa joysticks early?
Restrictor plate don't ruin idea of this joystick. Restrictor plates are excellent for U360. Currently I use circle restrictor for all games and works excelent. I can say that square restrictor is excellent for 4-way games (I remember it from my J-Stik. U360 and J-Stik have the same base construction).
Some info from me is in another thread:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=57466.0

Shoegazer · « **Reply #9 on:** September 22, 2006, 12:10:19 am »

Dreamwriter: any chance you could post your q*bert map somewhere? I'd like to take a look at it out of curiosity. I created a map for q*bert as well but it wasn't exactly controlling like I had hoped..

Thanks!
Shoegazer

Donkey_Kong · « **Reply #10 on:** October 30, 2006, 10:44:14 am »

(+_+) · « **Reply #11 on:** October 30, 2006, 11:36:43 am »

Hey DK,

Nice review.

Did the sticks come stock with the medium spring or are they still being sold separately since there was mention that once the optimal setup was determined, they'd start to sell that way.

Donkey_Kong · « **Reply #12 on:** November 02, 2006, 09:34:32 pm »

Not sure about now but mine shipped out around Oct 1st with the really soft springs. I ordered the optional springs and settled on the medium springs like eveyone else so far...

kowal · « **Reply #13 on:** November 12, 2006, 05:50:41 am »

I think that this is quicker way on change restrictor

Grasshopper · « **Reply #14 on:** November 12, 2006, 06:12:39 am »

Quote from: kowal on November 12, 2006, 05:50:41 am

I think that this is quicker way on change restrictor

Nice idea. It would be even quicker if you replaced the nuts with wingnuts.

I was thinking of doing that with my Suzo 500s.

Donkey_Kong · « **Reply #15 on:** November 13, 2006, 03:04:39 pm »

Quote

I think that this is quicker way on change restrictor

Are these 4 modded spacers? They look different than mine. Why are they sitting in between the seating cutouts?

I'm gonna pull my restrictor off today and try that. I actually haven't tried medium spring without the restrictor. Could be good and maybe true analog will be perfect too...

kowal · « **Reply #16 on:** November 13, 2006, 05:18:08 pm »

I made it from plugs to needles

I bought restrictor this already long ago to sanwaJLW. I preferred to make alone upgrade kit.

Donkey_Kong · « **Reply #17 on:** November 20, 2006, 12:10:21 am »

BUMP

For the benefit of anyone interested in these sticks...Go up to reply #10...I've updated my review 11/19/2006...The updates look blue like this.

I remember before I ordered these I wanted to read every review like at least ten times each and then look for more to read. Maybe you aren't like this...I think it is like borderline obsessive-complusive disorder or something like that.

skarr · « **Reply #18 on:** November 20, 2006, 03:37:01 am »

I was planning on putting these on my soon-to-be-made CP.

At first I was just planning on regular sticks with IPAC so that I could hook up my PS2 using the PSX Control Adaptor from ultimarc.

but these sticks use USB so is there any way to make the Ultimarc 360 work with PS2 or other console ?

destructor · « **Reply #19 on:** November 20, 2006, 06:10:53 am »

You can connect U360 to I-PAC but then programming will be disabled. I don't know how U360 is good without programming.

Donkey_Kong · « **Reply #20 on:** December 08, 2006, 10:43:16 am »

lloydcom · « **Reply #21 on:** December 08, 2006, 12:10:56 pm »

Can I connect this joystick to my X-Arcade Duo?

Is there enough height for the USB controller, and can I use the redundant clips to the joystick for use in non PC systems?

tranq · « **Reply #22 on:** December 14, 2006, 03:48:08 pm »

To address the last post: the depth below the plate is less than most sticks, so it should fit just about anywhere. (However, I think there are stick schematics at Ultimarc.)

My own review:

First off, I'll add onto the Retroblast review points. Great stick, smooth motion. Very sensitive - in analog mode, particularly with the stock (light) spring, it almost registers if you blow hard on it. (I don't like the light spring, cos 1) at least one of mine will stick just slightly up or left; and 2), it has a little shake of play to it before moving.) When in digital mode, it has a little play before it activates, but is still quite short at, say, 2mm. Just as in the review, the shaft is a little short: I'm not sure why Andy did this, cos most people use MDF, which makes for a LOW stick. Hence, unless you've a metal or plastic board, GET THE LONGER SHAFT. Lastly, the ultramap utility is pretty straight forward - however, every time when loading, it defaults at analog for all sticks. Now, it doesn't program your stick to analog, it just doesn't show what configuration your present stick is in upon scaning for it. Kinda weird, but not a problem.

Okay, now my own thing: I hate the play in all digital (or digital emulating) sticks. I want it to engage/send a signal at 2mm, and stop at 3. (Or maybe 2.5.) For about two years, I've wanted to have someone make me a special P360 with this in mind - but with the advent of the Ultrastick, I decided to use it, instead. Unfortunately, Andy wasn't available to make me special restrictors, so I went local.

Below is a fabbed restrictor made of acrylic. I patterned it off the PCB and made the interior round. Notice the round Ultimarc restrictor next to it. See how BIG it is inside? Mine is probly half the size....basically, I measured the shaft and black plastic 'accuator' (about 13mm), and added 2mm to the diameter (NOT radius).

I'll segue for a moment. I also had to make my own mapping for this. Basically, I did what I call an 'easy 8-way', where I start in the first set of squares from the centre. This is the most responsive activation this stick can get.

Now, materials and fab process. The local guy I went to used a pulsing laser cutter. This isn't optimal, but it IS inexpensive. That is, CNC-made, you're looking at, at least, $100-200 dollars for just a few. In this case, it was only $10 bucks per, and he'll make me one at a time. (Now, seredipitously, I discovered I knew this guy from my home town, back in high school, and he gave me a super deal, so I paid hardly nothin for 'em....anyways...) It isn't quite perfectly round, and it's a little rough inside, so I used a small, fine grinding bit on my hand drill to finish it.

Now, it's super tight and I can make very fast moves with very little effort, which, for me, means more fun.

Ninten-doh · « **Reply #23 on:** December 14, 2006, 04:10:23 pm »

Quick question about U360...do you have to make a custom map for each game or does it somehow recognize (thru controls.dat?) which default map to use? This sounds incredibly time consuming...unless someone is willing to ZIP up their maps and send them to me.

tranq · « **Reply #24 on:** December 14, 2006, 04:24:09 pm »

Quote from: Ninten-doh on December 14, 2006, 04:10:23 pm

Quick question about U360...do you have to make a custom map for each game or does it somehow recognize (thru controls.dat?) which default map to use? This sounds incredibly time consuming...unless someone is willing to ZIP up their maps and send them to me.

You don't have to make a map for each game. Ultimately, Mame would just select from a file the appropriate map. Unfortunately, this is a whole other kettle. It would seem Andy got ahead of himself in designing this stick that he didn't think to couple it with some utility or what-have-you to have mame do map select on-the-fly. However, it seems it must be part of the core. Someone, someone unknown unfortunately, has done a .106 version, but it's command-line. Sucko for me, cos I only use mame32. Also, Andy said he's working on something with the GameEx dude; in the meantime, you can use either Mamewah or something called MaLa, and use a batch file. (I couldn't get either of these to work, in general, so that's out for me.)

Donkey_Kong · « **Reply #25 on:** December 17, 2006, 12:53:41 pm »

Tranq- Your custom restrictor plate looks VERY nice!

Are you saying that you would be willing to sell these and ship them? If so where are you located? I'm in Central, Minnesota USA.

Andy ultimarc mentioned something about offering some different sized plates for these sticks as well...hmmm. Now you guys got me thinking damnit! I suppose play COULD be better for some games with less throw on these sticks.

tranq · « **Reply #26 on:** December 17, 2006, 03:09:54 pm »

D_K: actually, I'm suggesting that it might be best to make your own, using a jig (or, even better, a band) saw, and a drill press. (Though a hand drill might work, if you can fasten the piece down. Also, as I noticed in another thread about working with Lexan and plexi-glass, light pressure is advised. I used acrylic, but I'm sure Lexan, perhaps even plexi-glass, would work.) I don't have these tools and wanted to get some ideas on what it might take to make this plate, so went to someone else. However, I'm looking into a set of tools and may then make my own.

Donkey_Kong · « **Reply #27 on:** December 17, 2006, 03:33:40 pm »

Appreciate that Tranq!! I think this project is worth the effort. I'm interested in trying this on my own. I'm thinking acrylic myself as I worked with this back in High School shop class with some success.

Now what are good drill bits for acrylic? Also, this could be my excuse to maybe get a drill press. I'm assuming that the forstner bits would be a no no for acrylic. Probably just a regular sharp drill bit? Just checking cause I just got a sweet set of forstners the other day at Home Depot. A set of like 12 bits ranging in size from 3/8"- 2" by Porter Cable including the elusive 1-1/8"!! Probably medicore quality in terms of forstners but should hold up for an arcade cab enthusiast in drilling wooden Control Panels Etc.

loadman · « **Reply #28 on:** December 17, 2006, 07:48:11 pm »

Have you tried the Plug-in for this fine stick?

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=59334.0

fatfingers · « **Reply #29 on:** December 17, 2006, 07:59:31 pm »

Thanks for the plug (heh heh) loadman!

tranq · « **Reply #30 on:** December 18, 2006, 05:38:08 pm »

D_K: I don't know, though I was wondering. But, yeah, it should be literally mintues in making them.

...oh, hey, though: You're going to need two things - longer bolts, and some cylindrical spacers that are the length of the stock mounting brackets.

All this mucking around with the stick parts has caused me to look at the issue from the other end: the spring retainer (the black piece at the bottom of the shaft). You'd still have to get the restrictor set, but you'd only have to make larger spring retainers.

tranq · « **Reply #31 on:** December 18, 2006, 10:00:05 pm »

D_K: by the way, I meant I didn't know for bit type. For size, as noted above, I made the hole about 15mm - although maybe 16 is better - and then I made a map where the first shell of boxes are checked to their respective angles. Basically, an ultra (?) 8-way.

Something else: has anyone noticed their sticks get stuck in any directions? At least two of mine want to get stuck up, or one side or the other (one is modified and wants to stick up or to the right; one is right out of the box and wants to stick up or to the left). The third one I don't know, cos I have the bottom off it.

Donkey_Kong · « **Reply #32 on:** December 18, 2006, 10:24:59 pm »

Tranq

Quote from: tranq on December 18, 2006, 05:38:08 pm

D_K: I don't know, though I was wondering. But, yeah, it should be literally mintues in making them....oh, hey, though: You're going to need two things - longer bolts, and some cylindrical spacers that are the length of the stock mounting brackets.

Minutes for you, but days for me I think. Tranq, thanks for the additional parts needed but now I'm thinking I want someone else to make these and I buy from them!! I got a big punch list going to get my cab done. I think the payoff of this project would be great but man...I'm scared I would never be able to find the right spacers and bolts and everything...Plus cut the 5 holes in the acrylic perfectly. Yeaash! Hmmmmm....

tranq · « **Reply #33 on:** December 19, 2006, 02:09:54 am »

Hey, even better, man. Get enough support an Andy may think of making 'em.

fatfingers · « **Reply #34 on:** December 19, 2006, 06:10:00 am »

Quote from: tranq on December 18, 2006, 10:00:05 pm

Something else: has anyone noticed their sticks get stuck in any directions? At least two of mine want to get stuck up, or one side or the other (one is modified and wants to stick up or to the right; one is right out of the box and wants to stick up or to the left). The third one I don't know, cos I have the bottom off it.

Do you have the latest firmware?

tranq · « **Reply #35 on:** December 19, 2006, 01:36:27 pm »

Actually, my computer wouldn't read my enclosed disk - something like that, the thing wouldn't run - and so I had to d/l ultramap from the site....hence, I'm assuming yes. The phenomenon I'm experiencing is mechanical: I tap the stick forward or to the right and it visibly sticks there. Even with a heavier spring, there is still a little play in those directions and it sticks. I can't play any games cos it doesn't often centre from those directions and I end up going to far and getting killed.

fatfingers · « **Reply #36 on:** December 19, 2006, 02:02:59 pm »

Quote from: tranq on December 19, 2006, 01:36:27 pm

Actually, my computer wouldn't read my enclosed disk - something like that, the thing wouldn't run - and so I had to d/l ultramap from the site....hence, I'm assuming yes. The phenomenon I'm experiencing is mechanical: I tap the stick forward or to the right and it visibly sticks there. Even with a heavier spring, there is still a little play in those directions and it sticks. I can't play any games cos it doesn't often centre from those directions and I end up going to far and getting killed.

Oh, I didn't realize it was physically stuck. Have you tried disassembling and reassembling? That may do the trick. If it is physically stuck no firmware update will solve the problem.

tranq · « **Reply #37 on:** December 19, 2006, 05:24:02 pm »

I've done some more testing and here's the gig: The stock maps don't use the first ring of boxes, or use only the diagonals, there. The stick naturally has just a little bit of play in it and cos I use a short-throw restrictor, I have to use this zone, hence, this play registers and becomes an issue. I'm pensive.....it's a small thing....yet, because you can program it for that zone, it should be available, you know?

fatfingers · « **Reply #38 on:** December 19, 2006, 06:09:14 pm »

Do you have the stock ultimarc restrictors? If so, when you run ultramap, have you told it you have the restrictors in place? That may solve some of the "unused" cell issues with short throw. If you tell ultramap you have the restrictors in place it automagically accounts for them.

Oh, now I see that you have built your own custom restrictors... I guess all of that typing above can now be ignored...

tranq · « **Reply #39 on:** December 20, 2006, 08:32:09 pm »

This is a special case that illustrates the various ratios of activation and travel. Most sticks move a bit, then activate, then move a bit more. One might think then that to balance the response, one would make it activate just before the end of travel. I experimented with this. It actually made using it, worse.) The T-sticks have some of, if not, the least travel on the market. It goes a little, then activates, then very shortly stops. Yet I want less travel than this, and according to the design parametres of the Ultrastick, one has to use the first zone (I'm assuming the centre block is 0 ), and then actually the rest don't matter, cos the stick won't travel far enough to trigger them.

The issue with the Ultrastick is that it has a little bit of mechanical play. I didn't expect this. Though several sticks are like this (unfortunately, the T-sticks, ironically, included), the P360, and I think the Super are solidly still. You tap in any direction and it doesn't move. You have to actually push on it.

There are three ways to address this issue: 1) make for tighter tolerance in the Ultrastick. 2) make a finer map program. This could make things more complex than they need to be, plus would require a bit of testing.....if the sticks could even be easily formatted for other software. 3) do both - which could be cool, cos you'd get greater resolution in stick detection. Unnecessary if (1) is satisfied, though.

tranq · « **Reply #40 on:** December 21, 2006, 03:23:24 pm »

I must add that obviously my initial testing method of the sticks was poor. I didn't have an allocated piece of wood to install them in, so I used my panel. Whereas I just needed to plug them in and move 'em around in various ways while watching the Ultramap display.

Naru · « **Reply #41 on:** December 21, 2006, 11:07:28 pm »

Have you tried STREET FIGHTER 2 or ALPHA with these sticks yet?
I have always had difficulty with the Ryu/Ken uppercut moves
on other joysticks. (x-arcade, Slickstick)
Was considering chucking those and getting one of these.
From what I've read in this thread, It's recommended to get
the longer stick and medium springs.
I think that's right.

tranq · « **Reply #42 on:** December 22, 2006, 12:35:05 am »

I didn't cos I don't play those games. The only fighter games I play are the Double Dragon series, and not often.

kowal · « **Reply #43 on:** December 22, 2006, 06:13:32 am »

Quote from: Naru on December 21, 2006, 11:07:28 pm

Have you tried STREET FIGHTER 2 or ALPHA with these sticks yet?
I have always had difficulty with the Ryu/Ken uppercut moves
on other joysticks. (x-arcade, Slickstick)
Was considering chucking those and getting one of these.
From what I've read in this thread, It's recommended to get
the longer stick and medium springs.
I think that's right.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=60435.msg597845#msg597845

Naru · « **Reply #44 on:** December 22, 2006, 07:46:22 am »

Thanks for the link kowal.
So much information around here
it's easy to miss things.
Sounds like U360 is pretty decent.
I will upgrade to that then.
Still looks like the old SAITEK USB gamepad
will get some use from time to time.

Donkey_Kong · « **Reply #45 on:** December 22, 2006, 10:28:06 am »

Quote from: skarr on November 20, 2006, 03:37:01 am

I was planning on putting these on my soon-to-be-made CP.

At first I was just planning on regular sticks with IPAC so that I could hook up my PS2 using the PSX Control Adaptor from ultimarc.

but these sticks use USB so is there any way to make the Ultimarc 360 work with PS2 or other console ?

What did you ever find out on this? Do they work with consoles?

jammyjam · « **Reply #46 on:** December 28, 2006, 09:31:54 am »

Quote from: Naru on December 21, 2006, 11:07:28 pm

Have you tried STREET FIGHTER 2 or ALPHA with these sticks yet?

For me it was a little difficult getting used to not being able to feel the click of microswitches at first. But after a little practice I can now do dragon punches all day no problem.

blueznl · « **Reply #47 on:** February 05, 2007, 01:27:29 pm »

Do these sticks also act as regular analogue PC sticks? Can they be used with other emulators such as Project64?

Donkey_Kong · « **Reply #48 on:** February 06, 2007, 10:15:03 am »

Quote from: blueznl on February 05, 2007, 01:27:29 pm

Do these sticks also act as regular analogue PC sticks? Can they be used with other emulators such as Project64?

BLUE- You will get a much faster answer on something like this is the MAIN forum. Good Luck!!

JoeB · « **Reply #49 on:** February 16, 2007, 08:36:46 am »

I have a question for Ultimarc 360 owners. My current panel has 2 ultimate joysticks. The one thing I don't like about these joystick is what they do when I release from their extremes. E.g., pushing on my ultimate all the way to the right, and letting go, it bounces to center but continue a bit to the left, back to center, bit the right, and they continue to resonate like this a few times (registering the left/right action in the game!)

How are the ultimarc's in regards to this?

Also, is the click-free movement easy to get used to?

destructor · « **Reply #50 on:** February 17, 2007, 04:24:19 am »

Quote from: JoeB on February 16, 2007, 08:36:46 am

How are the ultimarc's in regards to this?

Bouncing have each joystick. Some have small bounce, some big. Ultrastik has very small bouncing. I tried it one while ago and directions bounce from left to right one time for about 10 times.
Bouncing is important here, important are your skills. Control your stick always, don't let go it never.

Quote from: JoeB on February 16, 2007, 08:36:46 am

Also, is the click-free movement easy to get used to?

For me very easy, especially that you can create own maps.

Donkey_Kong · « **Reply #51 on:** February 19, 2007, 04:13:09 pm »

Quote from: JoeB on February 16, 2007, 08:36:46 am

Also, is the click-free movement easy to get used to?

can you say FLUID? Kinda like saying is power steering easy to get used too...well kinda.

armax · « **Reply #52 on:** March 02, 2007, 12:44:03 pm »

Wll I order a set of these sticks through ultimarc. I have to say, that has to be the fastest service I've seen a while (what's even more impressive is that this was an overseas delivery). 3 days!!! I haven't tried the joysticks yet but if they are just as performing as Ultimarc's customer service, I'm sure I'll be more than elated.

QuixoteQuest · « **Reply #53 on:** March 02, 2007, 01:49:19 pm »

Quote from: JoeB on February 16, 2007, 08:36:46 am

Also, is the click-free movement easy to get used to?

The Stiks feel different, sure. The standard maps don't always "feel" or perform exacly right for a specific game--in that they may be more or less sensitive in how they appear to respond since you don't have restrictor plates (stock) or switches. But the maps can be easily adjusted to behave the way you want. You get true analog control when you need it. And you have one stick that works for most games. That's worth giving up a little in tradition by way of clicks you'd normally hear and the restrictor you'd normally feel. (And hey, if you just love 4-way or 8-way restrictors you can "permanently" add one of those, too.) You can change springs and even add longer shaft or a circle restrictor to adjust the throw. You get a lot of options with the Stiks to make them suit your taste.

For me I have to hold a little back in enthusiasm because they've been a little buggy, and while Andy has been enormously responsive and willing to work at it, I still have had to continually try out new beta software, reverting back to old software time and time again as we try to figure out why the Stiks are buggy or don't recognize. SO if you don't mind tweaking with them during an evolving development cycle I think what you get in return is a pretty sweet product. And you're supporting a really great vendor in this hobby. But the Stiks are not always plug and play like a time-tested, dedicated stick.

MPTech · « **Reply #54 on:** March 05, 2007, 12:33:34 am »

I'm getting ready to build a new CP for my Cab and have been trying to decide which sticks to arm it with.
These look great and the reviews sound overwhelming.
Are these similar to the "Perfect 360" or something totally different?
To the guys that have used them, if you built another CP would you install these again?

So these can be used to play the 4 / 8-way games, am I to understand that they can be used on the 49-way as well? (did someone say Sinistar???)

What does the input & output mode functions do? I saw that they can be connected to an I-Pac (and I assume A KeyWiz) then what is the USB connection? (can I bypass the I-Pac?) I'm a little confused here.

Sorry, I built my cab over a year ago, but I'm still learning about the CP (I took the lazy route with an X-Arcade and regret the decision, although, they didn't have U360s at the time either!)

destructor · « **Reply #55 on:** March 05, 2007, 02:28:37 am »

1. Yes, these are 'similiar' to P360. Works different but feel is 'similiar'.

2. About anotjer panel: yes, must be at least one U360.

3. For 49-way games you program U360 to analog mode, it works in Sinistar.

4. If you want to use all U360 modes you must connect it by USB, not I-PAC. I-PAC or other encoder is useless for U360.

Donkey_Kong · « **Reply #56 on:** March 20, 2007, 02:29:28 pm »

Alan Kamrowski II's review of the Ultra Stik 360 at RetroBlast.com. This review is dated September 2006, I thought that new members could benefit from having this link here.

RetroBlast U 360 Review

MPTech · « **Reply #57 on:** March 21, 2007, 01:16:16 am »

yep, saw it. excellent review. THANKS!

Anubis_au · « **Reply #58 on:** April 02, 2007, 11:32:07 pm »

Stupid question from a newbie: If you have 2 or more of these Ultimarc 360 joysticks, do you ever get the joystick signals interfering with one another and ruining gameplay at a critical time?

Also, how do you tell the PC which USB device is Player 1 and Player 2?

destructor · « **Reply #59 on:** April 03, 2007, 02:15:47 am »

No problem with 2 U360s.

ID: Windows choose ID for controlers, in UltraMap utilit you choose ID, in MAME you se which joystick is first, second ...

Anubis_au · « **Reply #60 on:** April 03, 2007, 03:03:38 am »

So basically you need Windows (or Linux etc)... not DOS. Are there DOS USB drivers? Trying to keep a hold of DOS/advmenu/advmame if I can... it seems the arcade world went Windows on me in the last few years...

destructor · « **Reply #61 on:** April 03, 2007, 04:00:37 am »

I know that U360 works under Windows OS. I don't know nothing about Linux/DOS, I didn't saw Linux or DOS utilities on Ultimarc page.

bleargh · « **Reply #62 on:** April 03, 2007, 01:12:56 pm »

I'd asked Andy about Linux support for the U360, and he pointed me towards the following post:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=63729.msg635932

I haven't tried it (don't have my U360s yet), but the protocol looked simple enough that even if this version didn't work I could pretty easily hack together a new U360 Linux driver...

BTW.... if anyone else out here has stuff they want running under Linux, I'd be happy to build drivers for the hardware; I just need h/w to test with and pointers on the protocols. Consider it "driver development, at the cost of one unit of h/w".

(+_+) · « **Reply #63 on:** July 15, 2007, 09:55:21 pm »

I just installed these sticks and the magnetic disk lightly touches the rounded black chip that's attached to the circuit board. I installed the round restrictor plate and was wondering if it is meant to be this way or have I reassembled it incorrectly.

Thanks.

rockin_rick · « **Reply #64 on:** July 28, 2007, 12:52:17 am »

Looking at mine, there is about 0.125-0.150" clearance between the magnet and the blob.

Rick

(+_+) · « **Reply #65 on:** July 30, 2007, 03:05:03 pm »

With Andy's help, I ended up fixing it in the end. I was missing the little washer that goes between the little black posts and the restrictor plate. I've been playing Robotron and Mutant storm with them and All I have to say is WOW, they're amazing. I was going to settle for the soft spring, but my wife claims there too soft, so I'm going to order the medium springs. I did try the hard springs and it was a forearm workout and a half, especially during extended play.

ARTIFACT · « **Reply #66 on:** August 24, 2007, 01:29:46 am »

OMG amazing!!!

I love the fatfingers plugin, and love the smooth feel as-is (no restrictor, regular spring)

NICE joystick

IreM72 · « **Reply #67 on:** November 13, 2007, 05:13:03 pm »

question deleted


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Author Topic: Ultimarc 360 Joysticks - my review (Read 43209 times)

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