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Author Topic: DK Jr to Double DK+  (Read 9322 times)

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Jeff AMN

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Re: DK Jr to Double DK+
« Reply #40 on: April 29, 2007, 11:45:49 pm »
Thanks for the info.

I'll be ordering the cap kit tomorrow from Bob Roberts, but I'm not planning on giving it the 48-1 in treatment anymore. I wanted to, but I think I'll leave this as a dedicated cab. I took a peek and did notice that I could take out those extra bolts. I'll be doing that for sure.
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bfauska

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Re: DK Jr to Double DK+
« Reply #41 on: May 03, 2007, 10:27:15 pm »
 I found a picture of Frizzles most famous marquee on KLOV.


Edit:  OOPS.  I just looked at the pic of Frizzles marquees again and I realized that it must be a variant of the original artwork.  Maybe this cabinet or Frizzles marquee is from a conversion kit and not an original cabinet.



 :laugh2:
« Last Edit: May 03, 2007, 10:29:30 pm by bfauska »

MaximRecoil

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Re: DK Jr to Double DK+
« Reply #42 on: May 04, 2007, 05:06:23 pm »

I also nixed the idea of cutting a new hole for the 2nd button,  so button 2 (for the few games that use it,  for example Qix and Phoenix) is wired to the player 2 button...it actually works out pretty decently too.

Why not wire up both player 1 and 2 buttons as buttons 1 and 2 (leaving the real button 1 also wired up as button 1 in parallel)? That way buttons 1 & 2 would be close together side-by-side for the games that use 2 buttons, and for games that just use 1 button you could use either the real button 1 or the player 1 button.

All you'd need to do is add 1 short section of wire to what you've already done.

FrizzleFried

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Re: DK Jr to Double DK+
« Reply #43 on: May 04, 2007, 05:16:35 pm »

I also nixed the idea of cutting a new hole for the 2nd button,  so button 2 (for the few games that use it,  for example Qix and Phoenix) is wired to the player 2 button...it actually works out pretty decently too.

Why not wire up both player 1 and 2 buttons as buttons 1 and 2 (leaving the real button 1 also wired up as button 1 in parallel)? That way buttons 1 & 2 would be close together side-by-side for the games that use 2 buttons, and for games that just use 1 button you could use either the real button 1 or the player 1 button.

All you'd need to do is add 1 short section of wire to what you've already done.

I've considered that...then I read somewhere that wiring P1 up as button 1 screws with the DIP switch system in the 48-in-1s...something about issues with saving the settings as it's pushing P1 and P1 start at the same time.  I think i may try it out just to see how it works...worst case,  I just remove the wire.

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