Main > Main Forum
Questions about: Converting Original Arcade to Mame
Kevin Mullins:
There is no absolute "right" way..... so everyones opinion should be looked at.
As far as the isolation transformer goes..... use your old one. Even if you bought a new one you would still have to wire it in anyways. The one you have is already there.
My point of keeping the old power supply in there is simply because it's already setup for the monitor's isolation transforemer, an EMI filter, cabinet switch, fuse/breaker, and all that sort of stuff that you will then need to rig up if you take it out completely.
As far as putting a power strip in there to run the pc or any other pc related equipment..... you should be able to tap into the 120 right inside that original power supply, then it would all still operate on the original cabinet switch as well. (don't even need a smart strip) Flip the existing cabinet switch and everything comes on, except maybe pushing a button to boot the pc which is typical anyways.
Eliminating the original power supply would also mean that you would then still have to wire up another power supply in order to use the Jamma harness for Jamma boards because they will require the DC voltages.
The Jpac doesn't need any of those DC voltages and they recommend removing the original power supply, but that's really only if you plan to have just MAME in there.
(less clutter so to speak)
It doesn't hurt to leave it in beacause none of the jamma voltage pins are even used on the Jpac while it's plugged in.
So going from a JAMMA cab to a MAME cab and back would then simply be a matter of unplugging the Jpac and plugging your JAMMA boards in and vice versa.
And as far as MAME and the PC goes if the only thing you find that you need to plug in is the actual pc power supply then you may be able to just plug it into the existing power supply without doing anything to it. Just depends on how much "other" stuff you plan on plugging in as to whether you need a power strip at all. And if it's just the pc power supply then I don't think it should draw more than the auxillary outlet is rated for. (see pic below) Either way you look at it, both the original power supply and the pc power supply will not be running at the same time even though they are both there. The outlet on the outside is usually underated because it's a cheesy cheap outlet, if you harwire to the inside it should do just fine.
I'll open one of mine up and take a pic of it and point out the few known things to consider. (if my crappy camera will get a decent shot indoors) Your pictures have been great to work with.
I'm sure I whizzed right over several details, but to give a general idea that everyone can come up with a method of doing things. You just have to take it all in consideration and develope your own plan of attack. Pop the top open on your cab power supply and take a peek in there. (nothing fancy there) ;)
krick:
--- Quote from: Kevin Mullins on August 02, 2006, 08:44:03 pm ---
Eliminating the original power supply would also mean that you would then still have to wire up another power supply in order to use the Jamma harness for Jamma boards because they will require the DC voltages.
The Jpac doesn't need any of those DC voltages and they recommend removing the original power supply, but that's really only if you plan to have just MAME in there.
(less clutter so to speak)
It doesn't hurt to leave it in beacause none of the jamma voltage pins are even used on the Jpac while it's plugged in.
--- End quote ---
I think you should keep the original power supply if possible so that you can easily convert it back to JAMMA.
However there are two problems with leaving it in the cabinet and powered:
1) If the power supply has no DC load, it will likely burn up. DC coin door lighting is not sufficient load. Also, attempting to power your PC's DC needs from the cabinet power supply is a bad idea in more ways than I can count.
2) having live DC voltages in the jamma harness, even if unused can be a problem since you can accidentally plug the jamma harness in the wrong way (if there's no key) and fry your JPAC.
These two reasons are the primary reasons that Andy at Ultimarc recommends totally disconnecting the cabinet DC power supply.
If you're good with electronics, you maybe able to modify your cabinet power supply and add a switch to it that cuts the internal AC circuit that feeds the AC to DC converters but that may be a lot of work. That's what I would try since I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron.
If you're not up to that, you should use Bob Robert's AC wiring map as a blueprint and rewire your cabinet so that you bypass the original power supply totally (but leave it installed) and use your original power switch, isolation transformer, etc... You may need to pick up a "power distribution block" and a "filter" as they're probably integrated into your cabinet power supply. Bob sells them both, along with just about every other part you could need for wiring a cabinet... http://homearcade.org/BBBB/parts.html
It will probably take a little creativity on your part but I'm sure you can handle it. You seem to be an exacting kind of fellow and I'm sure you'll figure out a slick solution. Resist the urge to rip it all out and hack something crappy together.
Flip_Willie:
Ok,
I have thought over the two choices you gave me, Krick. (Making a switch for my arcade power supply to shut off the DC, or just using Bob Robert's plan).
I have decided not to try and modify my arcade power supply, for a few reasons:
(1). Although I am sure you guys could "show" me how, I might mess it up myself. :
Kevin Mullins:
--- Quote from: Flip_Willie on August 03, 2006, 09:14:51 pm ---I have omitted the marquee light for now
It just ties in on the same side of the distirbution block as the isolation transformer.
(1). I would just use the power switch on the power strip.
Yes...that's just fine.
(2).Does anyone have an Idea of what the third one is for?
Ground
(3).*Edit* Stupid me, "der der der"
(4). I suppose I will need to buy Bob's "AC line filter .25 tabs" and his "AC power distribution block .187 tabs."
Probably be cheaper to get them from him while your at it.
(5). What type of fuse would I need?
When you e-mail Bob with your list, tell him a brief idea of what your doing, reference his diagram, and ask him to hook you up with the proper fuse and fuse holder.
(he's a good guy like that)
(6). I suppose I could see if I could find Molex that would fit the one seen in the second picture. This way it would be interchangeable.
If you plan on keeping that power supply untouched or mutalated for future use then yes.
Hopefully, I will soon be able to stop bugging you guys with my questions.
Never... otherwise we'd have no reason to come back. ;D
--- End quote ---
Flip_Willie:
Just one more question. :