Main > Woodworking
Ryobi Router hacking me off fixing to return it!!!!
MikeDeuce:
Here's a PDF I've downloaded from Finewoodworking.com that covers some safety tips:
http://www.ironvulva.com/temp/routing_safe_and_sound.pdf
And for general familiarity with routing, may I recommend taking a look at the informational articles at http://www.patwarner.com/ ?
Norm did a 2-parter on the New Yankee Workshop as well, titled Router 101. If you have any access to this, it would also be a great start.
Oh yeah, and search for power tool horror stories (groups.google.com, woodnet.net/forums), not so you fear the tools, but respect them even more than ever. They always seem to leave a lasting impression and keep me from doing things I shouldn't be with power tools.
ChadTower:
Oh sweet. I am so reading that right now.
nostrebor:
Just to drive this point home...
Router bith are razor sharp bits of carbide steel that you spin at upwards of 20,000 RPM in your router. If these magical bits come out of the collet, of your body parts touch them, your in deep ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---. Flesh never wins over spinning router bits.
Please, please do everything you can to insure that you fully understand how to operate a router safely, before you ever spin a bit.
(This commentary is intended for any and all readers that happen into this thread, including myself, not just the OP.)
NightGod:
Accident at Work-Lesson to Everyone is a sticky over in the Everything Else forum. Gives a pretty clear warning of the dangers of routers.
rdowdy95:
Guys I rented a good book at the Library about router woodworking. The first couple of chapters is an intro to routers and types, and the next two chapters have safety stuff in them.
I did spin the router tonight some. I went through all safety precautions as well. Guys I do have a question though. Here is my thing. I have a top bearing flush/pattern trim bit I got from MCLS. It is the 1 inch diameter one with 1 inch length with 1/2 collet size. Now first I shoved the bit all the way in there, and lowered it down to the working service. I locked the lock into place and then moved my Hex nuts down some to get the stopping zero point. Then I loosened the lock and it was flush as a zero point. So then I used the measure rod and I need to go 1.5 inches. Cause I have 3/4" plywood on top, as a pattern. Then I have 3/4" of the uncut wood on bottom. I have both pieces of wood clamped together. These aren't the arcade side pieces here. These see in the picture are my old uneven base boards, that I am not using. My main purpose was to test on them. However here is where my problem arised. When I pressed down on the router it wouldn't get the depth I needed. It was coming up short. This whole time router is also unplugged by the way. It needed to go past the first 3/4" and go a tiny bit down passed the other 3/4" on the bottom piece of wood. So what I did I loosened the collet a little bit, and pulled the bit out maybe about a little less than halfway. Then I tightened the hell on that collet to make sure the bit would stay in there. It did fine, and the cut was nice. I would turn it off about 5 seconds into cutting just because I was testing it out. I was scared from all the horror stories I have been hearing. I don't do any cutting untill the blade is going fast then I cut into the wood.
My main thing is this. Do any of the rest of you pull the carbide out a little to get some more depth when your router won't physically allow any more depth? Is it dangerous to pull it out a tad, or should I just go for the Top & Bottom Bearing Flush Trim/Pattern Bit from MCLS? #8814 is the one I could try to get. The blade length is 2" for $28.00
What do you guys think? Here are the pics.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version