Author Topic: Knievel's Woody COMPLETED (Read 177025 times)

Loki · « **Reply #120 on:** December 05, 2006, 06:28:26 pm »

Very nice!
I'm new to the BYOAC world and seeing projects like these really inspire me to build one too.
Keep up the good work!

RayB · « **Reply #121 on:** March 14, 2007, 01:31:58 am »

Such a nice cab. I can see it standing in some executive's office. Just give it some gold t-molding. ;-)

kelemvor · « **Reply #122 on:** March 16, 2007, 02:53:24 pm »

Very cool project. Just followed the link in the 10 worst things thread. I like this place that it's nice and flat to the wall since it's an LCD. I'm sure I could get the wife to go for this idea over getting a fullsize cab like TMNT.

Hmmm

Dire Radiant · « **Reply #123 on:** March 16, 2007, 03:13:56 pm »

I go away for a while and I come back to this. This hobby progresses faster than any other. The standard of craftsmanship just keeps getting better and better. I was going to post a "hey guys I'm back thread" but I'm far too busy gawping at projects like this with slack-jawed admiration. Truly magnificent.

bratwurst · « **Reply #124 on:** April 04, 2007, 10:26:03 am »

OK - this is probably a total noobie question here, but in this picture I see some plastic spacers under the encoder. I need to get a bunch of spacers for the motherboard and other stuff I'm going to mount in my cab and juke. What exactly are those and where can I pick them up? Is that just a generic item I can get at any home improvement warehouse store?

Knievel · « **Reply #125 on:** April 04, 2007, 10:38:59 am »

You can get those mounting squares at Home Depot and probably Lowes, etc. They'll be in the electrical aisle with the nylon ties. I've found them in black too.

Quote from: RayB on March 14, 2007, 01:31:58 am

Such a nice cab. I can see it standing in some executive's office. Just give it some gold t-molding. ;-)

It is! ..no gold t-mold though.

bratwurst · « **Reply #126 on:** April 04, 2007, 12:11:13 pm »

Did you mean the cable management squares you have on there? I'm not sure if we're talking same thing - I'm looking to find these:

mountain · « **Reply #127 on:** April 04, 2007, 01:46:28 pm »

I got mine from Mcmaster-carr. Part number 94639A620. They are sold in packs of 100 for around $7.00 a pack.

In the past Drewkaree has suggested using Bic pens with the guts taken out and cut to size.

Knievel · « **Reply #128 on:** April 04, 2007, 02:50:50 pm »

Oh, sorry I guess I misread that.

That is actually silicone aquarium tubing

. Cheap and you can cut it to whatever height you need.
I'm sure you can get real stand-offs from a computer supply place if you want.

Anubis_au · « **Reply #129 on:** April 04, 2007, 05:31:32 pm »

I know its been said before, but that's some damn nice wiring there, Knievel... do you have to do everything perfect?!?!?

javeryh · « **Reply #130 on:** April 19, 2007, 03:42:56 pm »

I'm trying to get a sense of scale for the control panel (and the overall cabinet design) and I was wondering what the dimensions of the CP top are as well as the dimensions of the box (or at least the height of the front and back panels so I can get the slope just right). Any help would be great. Thanks!

Knievel · « **Reply #131 on:** April 19, 2007, 05:30:15 pm »

The CP top is 34"x 14". The CP box is 33" long x 12" deep overall. The back is 5 1/4" high and it slopes down to 4 1/4" at the front.

I find the 1" of slope to be perfect. You'll want to put about a 5° bevel on the top edge of the front and back pieces to match the slope of the sides.

javeryh · « **Reply #132 on:** April 19, 2007, 05:44:57 pm »

Quote from: Knievel on April 19, 2007, 05:30:15 pm

The CP top is 34"x 14". The CP box is 33" long x 12" deep overall. The back is 5 1/4" high and it slopes down to 4 1/4" at the front.

I find the 1" of slope to be perfect. You'll want to put about a 5° bevel on the top edge of the front and back pieces to match the slope of the sides.

Awesome. Thank you!! Something tells me you had that memorized.

karlpenney · « **Reply #133 on:** April 21, 2007, 05:36:54 pm »

Do you use the same 1" slope on your Neon Mame style cabinets also?

Knievel · « **Reply #134 on:** April 21, 2007, 09:30:33 pm »

superbigjay · « **Reply #135 on:** April 22, 2007, 09:18:54 pm »

Quote from: Knievel on April 19, 2007, 05:30:15 pm

The CP top is 34"x 14". The CP box is 33" long x 12" deep overall. The back is 5 1/4" high and it slopes down to 4 1/4" at the front.
I find the 1" of slope to be perfect. You'll want to put about a 5° bevel on the top edge of the front and back pieces to match the slope of the sides.

Hello Knievel,
quick one...
5 1/4" back and 4 1/4 front are without the CP top right?
Jay

PS: by curiosity, how many cabs have you completed now? (or did you already stop counting

)

Knievel · « **Reply #136 on:** April 22, 2007, 10:39:07 pm »

Yes that's just the CP box.

Hmm..hard to nail down the number of cabinets I've done.
Only a handful for myself.. lots for others.

javeryh · « **Reply #137 on:** October 15, 2007, 11:05:30 am »

Well, I finally bought some plywood this weekend and I'm thinking about giving one of these a shot... anyway, one quick question before I begin - how wide is this cabinet? (with or without the 3/4" thick sides - just please specify which dimension you are giving). I didn't see it posted in this thread. Thanks!!

Knievel · « **Reply #138 on:** October 15, 2007, 11:27:04 am »

23 1/2" ID, 25" overall with 3/4" sides.

Good Luck!

javeryh · « **Reply #139 on:** October 15, 2007, 11:44:23 am »

Quote from: Knievel on October 15, 2007, 11:27:04 am

23 1/2" ID, 25" overall with 3/4" sides.

Good Luck!

Awesome - thanks! I hope to get started soon - now that I have materials I'll be much more inclined to do so.

I'm actually torn as to whether to try and deepen your design and put a 27" arcade monitor in there or just use the 20" LCD as originally intended. My fear is that I lose the elegant proportions by doing something like this plus making the stained side surfaces a little too big (lots more surface area) and not looking quite right. Any thoughts on this? A 20" LCD seems small for a full sized stand-up but I've never built one before (just a cocktail and a mini) so what do I know? Thanks again!

Knievel · « **Reply #140 on:** October 15, 2007, 11:58:27 am »

Yes a 27" CRT would kind of defeat the purpose of this design.

To choose a monitor size you need to take into account it's placement in the cabinet.
In this case it's eye-level, nearly vertical, and you're only standing a foot or so away from it. Given that, a 20" LCD is plenty big.

And if you're like me you grew up playing real arcade machines, and most of those only had 19" monitors.

javeryh · « **Reply #141 on:** October 15, 2007, 12:03:58 pm »

Quote from: Knievel on October 15, 2007, 11:58:27 am

Yes a 27" CRT would kind of defeat the purpose of this design.

To choose a monitor size you need to take into account it's placement in the cabinet.
In this case it's eye-level, nearly vertical, and you're only standing a foot or so away from it. Given that, a 20" LCD is plenty big.

And if you're like me you grew up playing real arcade machines, and most of those only had 19" monitors.

Heh, that's what I thought. I did grow up playing on 19" monitors so it shouldn't be that big of a deal but I do have the dream of a 27" one some day. I'm building this one for my brother-in-law though so I guess it doesn't matter!

DrewKaree · « **Reply #142 on:** November 12, 2007, 10:30:00 pm »

I don't really hate to resurrect this thread

Did I miss it somewhere, or can you just repost it here: what was your 3-stain "recipe" for this color?

Knievel · « **Reply #143 on:** November 12, 2007, 10:54:19 pm »

Wasn't really a recipe I'm afraid. I started with Mahogany Minwax and added in Provincial and another one? until I was happy with it.

I actually found a laminate afterwards that matched it almost exactly.

PS thanks for the 'Hell Yeah'

javeryh · « **Reply #144 on:** November 15, 2007, 03:43:41 pm »

Knievel - I'm in the early construction stages of building my very own "Woody" (pieces are cut - glue-up tonight! some seriously tricky angled cuts in there!). I'm wondering where in the world you found somewhere that sells 1/8" cabinet-grade plywood and 5/8" MDF for your control panel top? I've been to 3 different lumber yards and they all said they've never even heard of either - I can get 1/4", 1/2" or 3/4" of each but nothing else...

Do you have any ideas as to how you would make your control panel "sandwich" with those dimensions? I have a 3" highlip trackball but I'm afraid that if I use a 1/2" MDF base with a 1/4" top layer plus the 1/8" plexiglass it will be too thick on top - not to mention routing the groove for the t-molding would be tougher (I'd probably have to glue everything up before cutting the slot). Any ideas if I can't find 1/8" cabinet grade birch plywood??

Thanks!

mvaughn · « **Reply #145 on:** November 29, 2007, 12:18:34 pm »

Knievel,

Your woody cabinet is beautiful. I've been dreaming about building a cabinet for many years but I've held off because I knew I'd have to store it in the garage because the wife wouldn't let it in the house. I think a woody style cab like yours will pass the wifes approval.

Will you be willing to share the basic dimensions of this cabinet?

I know the CP top is 34x14

What is the overall height, CP height, and base width and depth?

I'm drafting this up in some CAD software and some rough numbers could speed things up.

schinkr1 · « **Reply #146 on:** December 03, 2007, 08:49:34 pm »

Wanted to share my woody. Never built anything like this before, but was totally inspired by this forum. Knievel was a huge inspiration and VERY helpful. Anyway, my kids absolutly love these silly retro games. Mine isn't as nice as the original "Master", but we love our Woody

http://www.bschinker.com/

Knievel · « **Reply #147 on:** December 04, 2007, 05:32:32 pm »

Wow that cabinet is beautiful, nice job!

Make your own Project Announcement ASAP so other can appreciate it.

Sorry I missed those 2 questions guys. If you still need info just PM me..

DoctorWHO · « **Reply #148 on:** February 12, 2008, 11:02:42 am »

Quote from: Knievel on July 21, 2006, 02:12:37 pm

So here are some pics of the CP, finished except for adding Mike's button labels. Hope to get those on later today. I'm finding it really tough to get an accurate picture of this thing. The color of the wood looks different depending on the light. Anyway these are the best I took so far..

On the Flyercade CP there were no lateral mouse buttons, so I assumed the two near the spinner worked as mouse buttons, but now I'm puzzled. What's their purpose? And, are they parallel wired with the laterals?

Knievel · « **Reply #149 on:** February 13, 2008, 08:13:38 pm »

The buttons beside the spinner are wired directly to the Plyr1 buttons 1 and 2.
I mainly use them when I'm playing 4-Way games..like Donkey Kong.

On the Neon and Flyercade machines I wired the mouse buttons to a couple of existing buttons.
I've done dedicated mouse buttons ever since though.

DoctorWHO · « **Reply #150 on:** February 15, 2008, 06:34:59 pm »

Thanks for the explanation. Cool cab, by the way. "I'm of a mind to make some woody"

Ioargra · « **Reply #151 on:** February 24, 2008, 06:31:26 am »

This is a GREAT looking woody!

I'm a n00b and I'm thinking of building a LCD slim cabinet myself like this, do you have the plans for the cabinet availible?

Cero21 · « **Reply #152 on:** March 09, 2008, 10:37:53 pm »

Quote from: Knievel on July 24, 2006, 10:38:27 am

Hey thanks guys, she's a beauty alright. Going to be a tough one to part with.

Jeff it seems very stable, a bit of movement if you're really yanking on it. It's on the carpet here, the fellow I built it for has hardwood floors so it should be fine.

Gotta say I like the mahogany color now that it's done. Of course our house is all light maple so I may have to stick with that for mine. Also considering a ebony stain, although I'd probably have to go with something grainier like oak to get that to work.

Here's a few pics I took as I finished the assembly.

A shot from the back before the t-mold went on..

The mount for the monitor. Four screws go through the MDF support I built into the factory holes on the back of the LCD monitor..nice and secure. I finished it with a sheet of black posterboard with the screen area cut out, and a piece of 1/4" glass..

The marquee area. 18" under-counter light with the switch relocated to the top of the cabinet. Foil tape applied to help reflect the light onto the marquee art..

T-mold on, keyboard drawer, marquee light and admin panel installed..

May I ask how the LCD mount is secured to the cabinet? I am looking at doing the same thing. Thanks!

seojea · « **Reply #153 on:** March 14, 2008, 10:48:48 pm »

Anyone know what is the average spacing on the buttons

topher0002 · « **Reply #154 on:** April 08, 2009, 01:18:46 pm »

On the main byoac page click on layout and design, there are some visio and other templates there, thats what I used.

Knievel · « **Reply #155 on:** June 09, 2009, 10:06:48 pm »

http://members.shaw.ca/knievelgod/woody/woody dimensions large.jpg

robert5earl · « **Reply #156 on:** June 10, 2009, 02:49:04 am »

Awesome Thank you !!

sportsnut6425 · « **Reply #157 on:** June 10, 2009, 05:59:18 pm »

Incredible Knievel, just incedible

Great crafsmanship!

Barry Barcrest · « **Reply #158 on:** June 11, 2009, 10:19:50 am »

The 2 black cabs in the picture look like my video wizard, nice cabs.

javeryh · « **Reply #159 on:** June 11, 2009, 10:48:58 am »

Quote from: Barry Barcrest on June 11, 2009, 10:19:50 am

The 2 black cabs in the picture look like my video wizard, nice cabs.

They look like standard Taito cabs - I've been looking for one for a while but no luck.


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Author Topic: Knievel's Woody *COMPLETED* (Read 177025 times)

Author Topic: Knievel's Woody COMPLETED (Read 177025 times)