Author Topic: Knievel's Woody COMPLETED (Read 176993 times)

Knievel · « **Reply #80 on:** July 24, 2006, 05:52:46 pm »

Oh we get the extreme highs and lows of temperature here alright.

Edge I have to admit I don't play fighters much so it doesn't bother me. Someone else with the same button arrangement might have an opinion but I think it works well..

Never too late to take up carpentry..I didn't even take woodshop.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #81 on:** July 24, 2006, 07:57:38 pm »

Quote from: Knievel on July 24, 2006, 10:38:27 am

Jeff it seems very stable, a bit of movement if you're really yanking on it. It's on the carpet here, the fellow I built it for has hardwood floors so it should be fine.

Excellent -- that cocktail I have at the cottage consumes a bit more real estate than I would like and that beautiful creation of yours would work perfecty in its' spot (not to mention fitting the decor better)and a vertical screen would make the jukebox aspect more usable.

Again -- stunning work!

Cheers.

boykster · « **Reply #82 on:** July 25, 2006, 01:57:37 am »

Very nice...

If, and I say IF, you have a top-heavy problem, you could consider filling a chamber at the base of the cabinet with play sand (available at Lowe's / Home Depot). You MUST dry the sand completely (open up the bags, spread it around thinly in a dry location) before enclosing it to ensure that you don't trap moisture, but it works great if you take the time to do so.

I've not used it in a cabinet, but the "stage" in my Home Theater is entirely filled with sand to acoustically isolate my subwoofer (which sits on it behind the screen wall) from the rest of the room. I had to ensure that the sand was entirely dry before sealing things up.

javeryh · « **Reply #83 on:** July 25, 2006, 12:02:05 pm »

(Not so) Quick questions:

What do the three buttons on the top left and top right of the CP and the 4 underneath the monitor do? Based on your labels I can make a pretty good guess but I'm still not sure of one...

Coin, Start, ____ - on the top left of the CP
____, Start, Coin - on the top right of the CP

Exit to FE, Quit - underneath the monitor on the left
Quit, Exit to FE - underneath the monitor on the right

Am I close?

Also, is there a one-button power on for the cabinet?

Finally, from the pictures, it looks like you mitred the bottom of your CP box too... if so,

nostrebor · « **Reply #84 on:** July 25, 2006, 02:59:30 pm »

Quote from: boykster on July 25, 2006, 01:57:37 am

Very nice...

If, and I say IF, you have a top-heavy problem, you could consider filling a chamber at the base of the cabinet with play sand (available at Lowe's / Home Depot). You MUST dry the sand completely (open up the bags, spread it around thinly in a dry location) before enclosing it to ensure that you don't trap moisture, but it works great if you take the time to do so.

I've not used it in a cabinet, but the "stage" in my Home Theater is entirely filled with sand to acoustically isolate my subwoofer (which sits on it behind the screen wall) from the rest of the room. I had to ensure that the sand was entirely dry before sealing things up.

You can pour the sand into a plastic bowl and microwave it to dry it. Works a treat, and won't hurt your microwave. <----- (this assumes that you are using river/beach sand and not iron slag or sumthin.)

Boz · « **Reply #85 on:** July 25, 2006, 03:33:56 pm »

Knievel,

WOW!

Knievel · « **Reply #86 on:** July 25, 2006, 05:37:02 pm »

Quote from: javeryh on July 25, 2006, 12:02:05 pm

What do the three buttons on the top left and top right of the CP and the 4 underneath the monitor do? Based on your labels I can make a pretty good guess but I'm still not sure of one...

Coin, Start, ____ - on the top left of the CP
____, Start, Coin - on the top right of the CP

Exit to FE, Quit - underneath the monitor on the left
Quit, Exit to FE - underneath the monitor on the right

Am I close?

Also, is there a one-button power on for the cabinet?

Finally, from the pictures, it looks like you mitred the bottom of your CP box too... if so,

Top left halo of the CP - PLYR1 COIN/PLYR1 START/LEFT MOUSE BUTTON
Top right halo of the CP - RIGHT MOUSE BUTTON/PLYR2 START/PLYR2 COIN

The 4 buttons under the monitor left to right are - LISTS(game lists)/EXIT, EMU(emulators)/PAUSE

No one-button power on. I usually set my cabinets up to go into standby mode after a set amount of time. And the marquee light has it's own switch on top of the cabinet.

Yes all the joints on the CP box were mitred.

sc0rp9 · « **Reply #87 on:** July 25, 2006, 07:21:33 pm »

Well, not a lot to say really apart from I'm glad I got a waterproof keyboard

Very nice in fact it's sexy

Shane

theCoder · « **Reply #88 on:** July 25, 2006, 07:48:10 pm »

Your first post was 9 days ago. When did you make your first cut? Very quick turn-around ! You must have a very understanding wife.

Knievel · « **Reply #89 on:** July 25, 2006, 08:17:31 pm »

Quote from: sc0rp9 on July 25, 2006, 07:21:33 pm

Well, not a lot to say really apart from I'm glad I got a waterproof keyboard

Very nice in fact it's sexy

Shane

Thanks but I'm thinking you need to get out more.

I started this cabinet the day before the first post, it was a pretty quick build. Mostly because I gathered all the materials beforehand..and set-up the computer. Bringing the various arcade parts up from the US is normally what slows me down.

As for my wife you have to remember this one was for someone else. She never has a problem with extra money coming into the house...never.

sez · « **Reply #90 on:** July 25, 2006, 08:44:41 pm »

Absolutely gorgeous

Santoro · « **Reply #91 on:** July 25, 2006, 10:40:42 pm »

Holy S that is a pretty cab. I might just be ..erm... borrowing that design one day. My cab is huge and I have been seriously considering something new.

Awesome work.

TheBrokentoken · « **Reply #92 on:** July 26, 2006, 07:17:47 am »

Kneivel,

I'll echo everyone else's sentiments and chime in that you've definitely made an impressive cabinet! I agree that this will be a cabinet to gauge other 'woodys' by - that's for sure.

Quick question though - where did you get the button labels from? I did a search (tried several different ways) but wasn't able to come up with much that led me to anything concrete. Thanks!!

Quote from: Knievel on July 22, 2006, 10:59:42 am

Mark I just cut them out with a sharp pair of scissors. That Happ vinyl cuts nicely.
To get the shapes I trimmed the halos out of my usual CP art using Photoshop and them printed them on some rigid photo paper. Them I taped them to the vinyl using packing tape and cut them out. Worked really well.

Put some of the button labels on this morning, it's actually a lot of fun and really easy. Thanks again Mike!

BlinKY1337 · « **Reply #93 on:** July 26, 2006, 08:10:22 am »

http://ironvulva.com/jump.html

reading entire post usually helps

TheBrokentoken · « **Reply #94 on:** July 26, 2006, 01:04:22 pm »

Quote from: BlinKY1337 on July 26, 2006, 08:10:22 am

http://ironvulva.com/jump.html

reading entire post usually helps

Thanks very much for the link - I'm not sure how I missed it.

arcadefever · « **Reply #95 on:** July 26, 2006, 02:37:56 pm »

oh my god

knienel what have you done

i read your first few posts and i was wondering how your project will turn....

but i've to say that when i check today i was very surprise about it ....

this is very nice....i didn't think that it could turn so nice like that...
the shape and color of the wood are perfect...

it look like a million $ cab

well done

MameMaster! · « **Reply #96 on:** July 26, 2006, 04:11:44 pm »

you've already hear it...but BEAUTIFUL!

I really like your take on a modern cab design with the LCD...and of course that beautiful wood!

Well done.

fiscap · « **Reply #97 on:** July 27, 2006, 12:08:42 am »

Very nice Knievel - is there anything you touch that doesn't come out sweet?

Mark70 · « **Reply #98 on:** July 27, 2006, 09:18:58 pm »

Quote from: Kremmit on July 23, 2006, 11:14:32 pm

Damn. I've never seen a woodgrain cab I liked before, I always figured I never wood.

What he said

method · « **Reply #99 on:** July 28, 2006, 01:57:42 am »

very sexy, lookin real classy

Knievel · « **Reply #100 on:** July 28, 2006, 09:45:27 am »

Thanks, lots of intrest in this style of cabinet. The wood finish is very high on the 'wife acceptance factor' scale.

But really it seems to be more of the size and weight of the machine that's appealing. You can fit it almost anywhere and you can move it without blowing out your back.

I'll soon be building one in the classic black and blue theme, I'll post a pic here when I'm done.

nostrebor · « **Reply #101 on:** July 28, 2006, 02:32:55 pm »

Quote from: Knievel on July 28, 2006, 09:45:27 am

Thanks, lots of intrest in this style of cabinet. The wood finish is very high on the 'wife acceptance factor' scale.

But really it seems to be more of the size and weight of the machine that's appealing. You can fit it almost anywhere and you can move it without blowing out your back.

I'll soon be building one in the classic black and blue theme, I'll post a pic here when I'm done.

Truly fantastic effort.

I can really appreciate you high level of OCD

I have a real need of perfection in my hobbies but I've never been able to couple that with the initiative to finish anything in less than 2 years.

Under 2 weeks... WOW!

Sylpher · « **Reply #102 on:** July 28, 2006, 07:17:00 pm »

It's been said, but I must reiterate it.. Fantastic job!

I do agree it seems a little too thin in the depth area. I am postive this has more to do with my mind having a set depth of what a cabinet looks like normally. If flat panels had been around all along I am sure seeing a big huge thick cabinet would seem very awkward and clunky.

I hear a lot of talk about your other cabinets, but have failed to find any. Is there a main hub to check them out or are they spread through out the board history?

Edit:
Nevermind. Checked your profile and found your page. Should have tried that first off.

RTSDaddy2 · « **Reply #103 on:** July 29, 2006, 05:43:15 pm »

That's really just impeccable wiring and I love the color scheme.

I wish I'd seen your control panel cut out for the trackball before I fixed mine...I didn't really understand how to recess the faceplate, so we mounted it on top...and in so far as it goes, it looks ok I guess....but been thinking recently that I wish I'd recessed it.

psychotech · « **Reply #104 on:** August 04, 2006, 07:49:39 pm »

We're not worthy ..

Anyway ..AWESOME.

mame-arcade · « **Reply #105 on:** August 04, 2006, 10:53:51 pm »

I'm dreaming about a finish like that

Wow, in french: j'suis sur l'cul

Olivier
http://www.mame-arcade.fr

Level42 · « **Reply #106 on:** August 07, 2006, 11:28:22 am »

Hey Knievl,

What router bits are needed to get the trackball and joysticks so beautifully recessed like that ?
I'm very new to routers and stuff so please be patient with me

What would you consider to be an essential set of router bits for a cab builder (I'm aware of the slot cutter for T-mold).

What do you guys mean with "mitering" (I still keep learning new English words here

) and what is needed ?

javeryh · « **Reply #107 on:** August 07, 2006, 01:46:00 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on August 07, 2006, 11:28:22 am

Hey Knievl,

What router bits are needed to get the trackball and joysticks so beautifully recessed like that ?
I'm very new to routers and stuff so please be patient with me

What would you consider to be an essential set of router bits for a cab builder (I'm aware of the slot cutter for T-mold).

I would say the essential bits are (someone please add if I'm forgetting anything):

1. Slot cutter for t-molding
2. Dado cutting bit to recess trackball and joystick plates
3. Flush trimming bit to make exact copies of cabinet sides or off of a template

Quote from: Level42 on August 07, 2006, 11:28:22 am

What do you guys mean with "mitering" (I still keep learning new English words here ) and what is needed ?

To "mitre" a joint means simply to cut two pieces of wood at a 45-degree angle to form a 90-degree corner. You can to this any number of ways but a table saw and a mitring jig will probably produce the best result. You can use a jigsaw or circular saw with a fence though to make nice mitred joints in plywood and you can use a radial saw or even a mitre box for long and narrow pieces of wood (like trim).

marknetwork · « **Reply #108 on:** September 30, 2006, 09:43:22 pm »

Where did you order the "arcade mania" artwork from its awesome!

jlfreund · « **Reply #109 on:** October 01, 2006, 12:35:18 am »

I have the same marquee, and got it from:
http://www.mamemarquees.com/marquees-c-21.html?osCsid=8886af2e91683427e3f9a846a97840bc

I'm glad this thread was bumped since I'm new to this board.

The Knievel arcade is something to behold. If you're still around, I have some questions about this one:

- Would you do anything differently next time -- especially in terms of shape of the cabinet, adding trim, dimensions of CP, etc?
- I'm curious what the cost of the cabinet was (not including HW)?
- What LCD did you use, and how did you mount the LCD panel in the cabinet?

I also wanted to take this opportunity to say that I've always thought it would be extra cool to have an inlaid wood CP, where the design of the inlay compliments the control layout -- like "circle with sun shaped rays" around each joystick, an "orbiting rings" around the trackball, "$" for coin up, etc. But I could never picture what a cabinet worthy of a fancy inlaid wood control panel would look like until now. Putting a work of art on your standard mameroom Ultimate Arcade II laminated MDF board (like I have) would be ridiculous.

Incidentally, when a friend of mine heard about my idea for an inlaid wood CP, he suggested if I wanted to do it, there is a chain of hobbiest woodshop stores here in the bay area called http://www.sawdusthop.com that let you pay a monthly membership fee to use their equipment. They have all the fancy planers, drill press, and even a CNC machine, so if someone wanted to do it, they wouldn't need any tools, or even a real workshop to do it cheaply.

Jason

lobes · « **Reply #110 on:** October 05, 2006, 12:16:30 am »

i did read through the whole thing and unless i missed it wot size is the lcd?

i will definately model mine on this as it will save space....

FunWithFire · « **Reply #111 on:** October 05, 2006, 04:23:58 am »

I believe he states he is using a 19" in the first post of the thread.

Stingray · « **Reply #112 on:** October 09, 2006, 04:37:42 pm »

Another outstanding cab, Knievel.

-S

spacies · « **Reply #113 on:** October 09, 2006, 05:07:00 pm »

Beautiful!

Love the detailing too.

javeryh · « **Reply #114 on:** October 28, 2006, 04:35:56 pm »

Knievel: How does the LCD look for Mame? I know you stated that it looks beautiful but does it look authentic or very blocky/pixelated because of the higher resolution? I'd appreciate anything you could tell me about the monitor. THANKS!!

Knievel · « **Reply #115 on:** November 21, 2006, 01:01:57 am »

Sorry I've been neglecting this thread..

javeryh> The LCD looked great on the games I tried out. There was one side-scrolling game that I noticed some 'tearing' on but a little tweaking in the mame.ini fixed that.

I really couldn't notice any differences between it and the CRT PC monitor monitors I normally use. Everyone who saw it assumed it was a CRT. Keep in mind I'm used to PC monitors and the pixelation that comes along with them. I love that kind of detail and actually use the effect 'sharp' in my mame settings to get it even more detailed.

jlfreund> Having built several of these slim cabinets now I can safely say no, I wouldn't change anything with the design or the CP. If I get someone else wanting a woodgrain cabinet I will talk them into a wood-look laminate though. Way too much time and mess involved in a stain job. Days after the completion of this one I found some formica laminate that matched my stain almost exactly.

I'm going to keep the costs to myself on this one, my customers are lurking.

The LCD was 19" Samsung Syncmaster, I don't recall the model#. It had a 8ms refresh rate. You can see the mdf mount I made in one of the build pics. 4 screws went through it into the factory mounting holes in the monitor.

For those who missed the black version...
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=58647.msg578324#msg578324

OzHomer · « **Reply #116 on:** November 21, 2006, 05:33:35 am »

It's so hard to go past this thread without at least saying ' what a fantastic effort'.. so here goes... what a fantastic effort!!!!

Very inspirational.

I'm building a cocktail cab at the moment with a stained wood finish ( again, it was the only way the wife would let it in the house) and I can only hope it looks anywhere near this quality.

Great job!

javeryh · « **Reply #117 on:** November 25, 2006, 08:27:07 am »

Knievel - I posted this elsewhere but I think you probably know the answer:

I am hinging the front panel of my cab that the coin door is on exactly like you hinged the door on the Woody. I framed out the opening on either side using .75" thick MDF so I can mount the hinges and so the door has something to close up against. I guess this is really a cabinet-making question but how wide should the door be? I want to give the illusion as best as possible that the coin door panel does not move (I am installing a magnetic catch on the other side) but if the door is as wide as the opening it will not pivot on the hinge (it is pretty snug right now). How much is customary to shave off of each side? The hinges I bought are the same kind that you used for the Woody cabinet and the panel is supposed to be the entire width of the opening but movement is being restricted by the cabinet sides...

Any help would be great! Thanks!!

Knievel · « **Reply #118 on:** November 25, 2006, 04:32:30 pm »

Making the door 1/4" than the opening normally works for me, so an 1/8" off either side. You could try trimming less and test fitting it. 1/4" would be the most you'd need to trim off.

If you use the Inset type of European hinge you don't need any sort of frame. The hinge mounts directly to the the side of the cabinet.

tranq · « **Reply #119 on:** December 04, 2006, 06:55:03 pm »

Nice work, EK, you are gifted. Funny, cos just the other day I was thinking how I hadn't seen a panel wired like some PTP guitar amps are wired....till I came across yours (and McCoy178's)! Now that is some sweet wiring.


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Author Topic: Knievel's Woody *COMPLETED* (Read 176993 times)

Author Topic: Knievel's Woody COMPLETED (Read 176993 times)