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Question about "bending" wood
Boz:
--- Quote from: shardian on June 29, 2006, 08:15:27 am ---Here is an idea: Cut three curve sections from plywood, like in the stacking method. Space them apart with 2" spacers and screw together. Face the much lighter structure with a veneer facing.
--- End quote ---
This actually sounds like a viable solution and something I might be able to handle with the limited degree of experience I have with wood.
U dunno yet. I need to read through the project that GadgetGeek linked first though.
However, since Quarters said I can stain as necessary, the verneer is looking better and better the more I think about it.
Boz:
Ok... I just checked the post (scanned it for the pretty pictures, really) that GadgetGeek just mentioned (thanks, by the way) and it looks like probably the best method for creating my curved fronts. You just gotta love DrewCarey and his willingness to help out.
I figure as long as I can build substructures (NoOne=NBA=, thanks) with enough "oomph!" to support the top and the inevitable weight it will bear -- by people pushing down -- I should be ok with those curves.
I like both the idea put forth in the post mentioned above as well as the idea of using a verneer.
That's 1,000 points to everyone who responded. Thanks Guys! This hobby / project would be MUCH, MUCH harder with out ya'll.
-Brian
DrewKaree:
B, kerf the wood. You have a sawboard. It's nothing more than repetitive cuts over and over again until you reach the curve you wish to attain. It's not only going to be the easiest, it's going to be FAR more foolproof than building up or removing something that may or may not work. Also, from the size you're going to be doing, it's not going to affect the structural integrity of your CP AT - ALL!
For a good idea of what you'll need to do, how to achieve it, and possible results, take a look at this thread:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=49644.0
DO NOT - DO NOT - think that just because he was dealing with MDF and you're dealing with oak ply that you won't be able to achieve this. I've used this technique to round the ends of cabinets in people's kitchens with NO PROBLEMS WHATSOEVER.
If you're SERIOUSLY bugging about it and have to have the curve, you could also do what I did and miter that area. I didn't need/want a curve, but since you do, sand it to the curve you wish, but it's SO easy to just kerf it, I waited until now to even bring up that option.
Kerf it. You know in your heart of hearts after looking at that link that it's the right way to go. NoOneNBA gave you the right direction to go in.
Howard_Casto:
If you haven't started already another suggestion. At your local lowes they have a material that is similar to flex-ply used for floor underlament. It is a wood-based product but it doesn't have any grain to speak of. It bends quite well though. So if you are going to paint the whole thing, then use that.
Kerfing is the right way to do it, but main it's a pain in the butt. You'll go mad after the 631st cut. I know I did.
Boz:
--- Quote from: Howard_Casto on August 13, 2006, 05:25:38 am ---Kerfing is the right way to do it, but main it's a pain in the butt. You'll go mad after the 631st cut. I know I did.
--- End quote ---
I dunno. I thought about doing a number of things for the first cabinet that would make it look really good. In the end, I pretty much decided that my limited wood-working skills (and the patience it requires to spend 4 hours setting up a jig for a cut that takes 60 seconds) would probably benefit more from the overall experience than from a single piece that takes forever to get "just right". My CP will have corners and edges like so many of the beginning cabs have.
BUT... it'll be 5 feet wide! ;)
* In2ishun nod's and smiles at Drew
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