LeapinLew - Showcase Cabinet: Testing and Finishing Touches.

[leapinlew]

What we have here is the center peice to my arcade set. This is hopefully the last machine I do. It's a converted Xenophobe to a combatribes cabinet. I'm going to convert it to a showcase cabinet. I'm going to remove the top of the cabinet and build a cabinet for my 32" television.

Things to do:

• Remove top of cabinet- Done!

• Patch Hole in base - Done!
• Strip and Paint - Done
• Create CP -  Done
• Build TV Base - Done
• Setup/Connect computer - Done
  

Thats pretty much macro instructions at this point. I'm not sure when I'll be able to work on it. I'll be travelling for work soon. I would like to have something put together soon so it's at least playable. It's going to have 2 8 way joysticks, 6 buttons each, and a trackball.

As for the color scheme... I'm sticking with something safe. Going with the black paint and light blue t-molding. Going to add some diamond plate for the kick plate on the base. For the CP, I'm going to pick some polycarbonite with a basic design on it (maybe some diamond plate).

So.... here we go again!

[leapinlew]

I recently gutted it and gave the guts to Pinball Jim (perhaps he's a combatribes fan?)

[theCoder]

This is hopefully the last machine I do.

Yea right.  That's what I told my wife also.

Good luck on the project.

[psychopanda]

I usually don't care about gutted cabs...but Xenophobe was a fave of mine. 

It's such a unique cab shape, but unwiedly, so I can understand why you'd want to chop it up. Good luck with your project. 

[leapinlew]

I usually don't care about gutted cabs...but Xenophobe was a fave of mine. 

It's such a unique cab shape, but unwiedly, so I can understand why you'd want to chop it up. Good luck with your project. 

I agree with you about the shape. I almost kept it as is. The top has a bit of water damage - one of the sides is swelled. More than anything, I need more than a 19" screen for all the good games I want to play on it.

[leapinlew]

Today I was able to get a bit of the work done. I removed the top portion of the cab and stripped the base. I sanded it with 60 and tomorrow I plan on patching all the holes, and sand it with 120, then 180. If I bust butt, I might be able to get it ready for primer by tomorrow.

I also did a bit of the computer work.

I'm really wanting to utilize the 32" television I'm using, but I'm not real motivated about building a cabinet for it to sit inside. I know it would make it feel more authentic and all that - I'm just lacking the motivation and more than anything I just want to play it. I may just stick it on a stand until I'm ready to make the base for it. We'll see.

Here is a pic of the front stripped. There is a couple small holes that need patched by the coin door. Also, you can see a small amount of water damage on the lower left corner. I plan on using diamond plate metal as a kickplate all the way around the base to cover both the water damage and to protect the cabinet.


Here is the hole that I patched with a scrap peice of wood. It's ready for the bondo to be poured on


And here it is poured on - tomorrow I'll sand it down and skim coat it and patch the other holes in the cabinet. After it dries I can sand.



Here is a shot of "working" on the computer. I seriously can't wait to play some of the trackball games. I have been denying myself playing these games till it was all built. I couldn't resist a quick game of world class bowling though.


Hopefully I'll get some more done tomorrow.

[TOK]

Nice project. I also love that style cabinet. I have a standard Bally cab that doesn't have the monitor on a stalk, but uses the same CP and sheet metal base. Here is the panel I made for it. Only thing I wish I did differently was incorporate the mouse buttons into the second row of Player 1 buttons. It's functional and I'm on to different things now, but I might redo it in the future.

[leapinlew]

ahh! Awesome! To be honest, I was getting a little nervous like my controls wouldn't fit. They look like they'll fit perfect after seeing yours. Cool!

[TOK]

I had to trim the front of the metal base just a little bit to clear the trackball mounts (Happ 3"). It also doesn't look that nasty in person. It was all smudged up from assembling it when I took the pic.

[leapinlew]

Today I worked on the base cabinet. I'm done for today. I'm taking the girl out for dinner and some entertainment. I was able to get what I wanted done.

I bondo'd and patched up the hole on top. It feels good, we'll see how it looks when primer goes on. Speaking of - this portion of the cabinet is ready for primer. I patched a few other miscellaneous holes.. Since it will be a showcase and be visible, I wanted it to look clean. I routed out both sides and the peice of wood that I patched the hole in.


I sanded down the whole cabinet with higher grit. I also created a temporary CP. The old CP practically crumbled to dust. Before it totally disintegrated I clamped it to a peice of wood and cut out a template using a flush trim bit and a router. I'll use this when I get some 3/4".

[theCoder]

I notice the bowling game on the screen.  If you like that one, check out "Gutterball".  It is very popular around my house.

[leapinlew]

I notice the bowling game on the screen.  If you like that one, check out "Gutterball".  It is very popular around my house.

Ahh... cool. I'll check it out! Thanks - The trackball is one of the major things I'm looking forward to.

[leapinlew]

Started doing some work on the TV stand today. Last night I stopped by Home Depot on a whim. I wanted to see if they would cut MDF for me. There have been some rumors of Home Depots not wanting to cut MDF cause of the dust it makes. My Home Depot had no regard for the toxic dust MDF makes and said they would cut it for me! I had them cut it in half before I realized I had my girlfriends smaller car and it was too small to haul anything. It was 9:30pm and I had just enough time to get home, get my car and get back before they closed at 10. I got 2 sheets of 4x8 cut into 4 strips of 2x8's. Everyone loves seeing pictures of wood so...



So here's the plan... create a template using some particle board, or pressed wood or whatever I have laying around that my dad gave me. See, my dad called me on the phone and asked me if I wanted a couple leftover sheets of "plywood" and I said "sure! I'm sure I'll build something soon". He brings over this stuff.


It's a splintery mess. But, it's good for making a template. I built a platform approximately 36" x 23.5". I test fitted the TV to it and it seemed ok with about 2" of overlap on each side. I screwed the template to a sheet of MDF that was cut down to just overlap the template and used a flush trim router bit to trace the template. Easy, quick and messy as hell.

Notice all the dust? Mdf ain't no joke. I'm doing this outside. Also, unless you want MDF boogers for a month - wear a good face mask.

After a trim:




Notice the curve on the mdf? You may recognize it. It's the bondo can lid. I traced it on the corner, cut it with a jigsaw and used a palm sander to smooth it out. I cut out 2 more templates after this one, and a new control panel. I was covered in MDF. Whats the best way to get rid of all this mdf?


Ha! I did jump in the pool, but I took a quick shower. My luck, MDF would have some chemical reaction in the pool and burn a hole through it, or it would somehow gum up the filter...

I'm probably going to call it quits today. The base is ready for primer, but I want to do both the base and TV stand at the same time. I'll probably get the TV stand built this week. It's about 24" wide, is on casters and should fit through most door openings. I'll keep posting the progress.

Don't ask me for plans though - plans are for people who know what they are doing...

[leapinlew]

I didn't post an update yesterday because I didn't do anything but route the t-mold slot on the cp and the tv stand bases, and I managed to screw that up. I routed the cp improperly and managed to make the gap 1/16th of an inch off. So, I filled the gap with bondo and called it a day.

Today I sanded the bondo and rerouted it - turned out fine. I also built the tv stand today -

First things first - I measured out the base of the television and using a small scrap peice of 2x4 I drew out where I was mounting the 2x4's.


I mounted the casters on some 1x4's and mounted them to the bottom of the base.


I then drilled some holes through the base, flipped the base over and drilled screws up through the 2x4's. I measured and the optimum height for veiwing will be 3 feet 3 inches. The 2x4's are cut exactly 3 feet high. The MDF is 3/4" and the casters are 2". Close enough!


At this point it needs to be plumbed up and leveled. I took the picture in the driveway, but if you ever do this, make sure you plumb your stuff on a level surface. I rolled this in the garage to plumb it.

Yeah. The braces aren't level - but they'll be hidden and they are doing the job.

I'm sure this would be enough support for a 32" monitor, but to be extra safe, I had a 2x6 laying around that I cut to fit and mounted in as well. I centered the actual tv stand and screwed it into the 2x4's and 2x6. I sat on it and it seemed sturdy enough.


The picture has been compressed or something is causing it to look all wobbly on the bottom. It's not like that really.

Thats pretty much what I could do once I got home from work. Tomorrow I hope to put the tv on it and install the top section and perhaps a few panels.

I've ordered the t-molding (light blue) and I'm painting it black. It's a classic color combination and will compliment my other mame machines. I'd like to be painting this weekend. The computer, which I think is the biggest pain to do is already done and waiting for a home.

Slowly but surely!

[leapinlew]

I completed the skeleton for the Showcase frame. I am going to cut some MDF sheets on the outside to complete. I ordered some parts today -

Ipac2
Black Buttons, 1 and 2 player start buttons
T-molding
Some Neon lights - going with blue. Some blue fans, and 15" tubes to give it some indirect lighting.

Here is the frame completely built:


Here it is next to the base - it gives a good idea of the scale of this cabinet. My girlfriend asked where we were going to put it... She has a point.


I hope to skin it and paint it over the weekend.

[johnperkins21]

This is going to be sweet when it's done. I am watching it closely.

[leapinlew]

Tonight I cut the bottom peices of the tv stand. I didn't have much time. You can see where I plan on installing all the t-molding. It's really beginning to take shape.



I'm really compressing these pictures so they'll be about 20k and the quality hit is pretty severe. The compressed pictures show some imperfections that don't really exist. I'll post higher res. pictures when there is something worth taking a quality picture. Tomorrow I plan to finish the top and prepare everything for paint this weekend.

[theCoder]

I'm really compressing these pictures so they'll be about 20k and the quality hit is pretty severe. The compressed pictures show some imperfections that don't really exist.

Are there any published guidelines regarding posting images in this forum?  I've been cropping mine, resizing to 7" max width (or height), then saving as jpeg quality 2.  The pictures typically come in at 50k. 

Lookin good.

[leapinlew]

Since I'm posting a lot of photos I want them compressed as much as possible. I've never seen any guidelines on posting images.

[Knievel]

Unique idea reusing the old cabinet like that. Should be a real showpiece when it's done.

So are you planning on running any consoles on this? You've got plenty of storage room in the pedestal unit.

[leapinlew]

Mr. Kneivel,

As for the consoles - I'm planning on using an x-box I modded a while back to play some Tiger Woods golf, but to be honest, I don't expect it to get much use. I love Tiger Woods golf, but I want to play it sitting down. I'll mount the xbox behind it with access to the controllers. I suppose I could go with some wireless controllers - that'll be easy to add later.

I am going to setup Mala to be able to access Atari and NES. I don't know how much they'll be used, but it could be fun.

[leapinlew]

Alrighty! Here is where I'm at today - I finished mounting the top. I cut/routed/installed/filled the side panels for both the lower section and the top.



I have some mini 4" blue neon lights that I hope will provide a soft non-blinding glow behind the speaker grill. I am going to mount them right under the speakers:



Today I brought it outside for a quick 400grit sanding


I don't know what you guys do, but I use caulk to fill in any seams. Here is a shot of a couple seams filled in with caulk - just make sure your caulk is paintable.:


And then I brought it in the garage to shoot it with some paint. I think I prefer the slight texture of a foam roller, but I still use a gun to hit all the corners and areas that the foam roller won't reach. It makes for a much smoother finish than a brush.





Hope to apply a coat of paint tonight, but if not, no biggie. This project needs to be done in another couple weeks and I'm doing fine on time. I haven't had much time this weekend to work on it, but I've sneaked in a few hours here and there.

[leapinlew]

Anyone have any thoughts on a marquee? As in, do I need one. The TV stand already sits at about 6 feet 2 inches. Yes or no?

If yes, I was thinking about a 24" wide by 6" high marquee, but it'll be an after thought add-in and will bolt to the top of the tv cabinet.

I may just leave it be. It's pretty obvious what it is and I don't really have a name for it.

Suggestions?

[MYX]

I would do a marquee if you have the ability to do so. It is kind of the icing on the cake. As far ad width, since you have the rounded front and nice curves (sorry the cabinet, not you) you might consider doing a sloped angle up to the full height.
  /==========\
 /     MARQUEE    \
/______________\

Umm yeah, that is not to scale. um at all! but it gives you the idea. perhaps round the edges the same way as the top so it slopes up to height while rounding the corner then about where the screen starts start the opening of your marquee area.

As to name, I asked the same thing on the forum and got no replies. But then again it is probably a good thing. It forced me to think about how I wanted to present the cab. My suggestion, is get away from the cab all together and relax with a beer (if you drink, coke if you don't) Listen to some favorite tunes and let yer mind wander. Something will come to you. Worked for me. (except it was Pinot Grigio  ).

[TOK]

Definitely make a marquee. I say use some variation of the Xenophobe title. Since you took an already strange cab and made it even stranger and bigger, how about Xenolith!

[leapinlew]

As to name, I asked the same thing on the forum and got no replies. But then again it is probably a good thing. It forced me to think about how I wanted to present the cab. My suggestion, is get away from the cab all together and relax with a beer (if you drink, coke if you don't) Listen to some favorite tunes and let yer mind wander.

So... this is how you came up with the name blackout? Interesting. The name for my cabinet would be "Puke and Recoop". I think I have a name in mind, but if I had this name in mind earlier - I might've went with a different color scheme. 

Ok, so I'll build a marquee. I'm not going to do anything too fancy. I'm thinking a slightly curved marquee - if I can figure out how to do the retainer. I have enough left over MDF.

I rolled on some black tonight. Painting this much black is so boring, but it's going to do what I need on this cabinet. I'm hoping to make it pop with the t-molding. I'll put the final coat of black on tomorrow and work on the CP.

[Dreamwriter]

I like the two piece design - you are keeping them as two separate pieces, right?  I thought of doing my cab that way, but as I only have a 19" monitor, I decided I want it as close to the player as possible.

[leapinlew]

I like the two piece design - you are keeping them as two separate pieces, right?  I thought of doing my cab that way, but as I only have a 19" monitor, I decided I want it as close to the player as possible.

2 peices is the way to do it. Showcase style cabinets are pretty popular nowadays. It's a good way to use a large display, the downside is it takes a large amount of real estate.

Do you have pictures of your cab posted?

[Dreamwriter]

You've seen it, as much as it is   Games of Yore, currently in Junkade format...

[leapinlew]

Your right! Your going all out. LCD, multiple controls... cool. I'm keeping an eye on that project.

[gamecreature]

To paraphrase Longfellow, Xcelsior!

[Crafty]

I know all the opinions are for a marquee, but if you are going to do side art is the added height of the marquee necessary??
The side art can easily identify the caninet as unique..

[leapinlew]

Ok! Time for a small update - after the holiday, I been doing some of the tedious stuff.

I've painted both sections which takes a few days since I wait a day between coats. I had a buddy of mine (you can see his cab at http://bleemus.spaces.msn.com/PersonalSpace.aspx" help me get the TV stand into the house and mount the TV inside it. It still needs T-molding and dark plexi (verdict still out on the marquee).





I also started on the CP. I ordered a textured vinyl gerneric cp design from classicarcadegrafix.com you can see it here: http://www.classicarcadegrafix.com/sunshop/index.php/action/item/id/69/prevaction/category/previd/4/prevstart/0/ And I started cutting the CP. I already had it routed - so I only needed to drill the holes and jigsaw out the trackball hole. I laid out paperwork first to indicate where I was to drill, drilled pilot holes and switched up to a 1 1/8" bit to cut out my joystick hole and buttons. My camera ran out of juice after these shots:




I also mounted the speakers, spray painted the metal peices, and mounted the neons inside the speakers. I'll post pics as soon as I can.

[leapinlew]

So I'm just sitting around waiting for my last few parts to show up. I am expecting the CP art to be here by friday.

I lit up the speaker holes with 4" neons. I am powering them with an old AT style power supply so I don't have to run them off my PC's power supply. Here are some pics:

[leapinlew]

I got my print in from ClassicArcadeGrafix.com and it was in terrible shape. Something bad happened during shipping. I emailed them to tell them about it (not to mentioned I was really bummed). Within 5 minutes they emailed me back to say they were sending a replacement.

What they did send looked/felt great.

So then! Thats a thumbs up for ClassicArcadeGraffix.com for standing behind their product! 

[NightGod]

I had a bit of a crushed box that my vinyl arrived in from CAG, as well. Fortunately, no real damage was done to the piece itself, but I'm thinking they need to seriously look at investing in some high quailty shipping tubes or something. They used an old Amazon.com box to ship mine in (had the little smiley on the side and everything).

[leapinlew]

Cut the trackball hole today. For those wanting to do the same thing - here is how I did it.

First I created a jig using some spare pieces of MDF.

• The bottom piece is the base. It's big enough to stradle a couple horses and support the weight of the next pieces.
• I used 2 peices with a gap beween them wide enough for the trackball hole. I screwed them to the base
• straddling those 2 pieces I put the trackball plate and screwed it into the scrap pieces under it.
• I put another peice of MDF on top - this is going to be your template piece and you should drill a hole in it big enough to fit your flush trim router bit in. Before screwing your template into the pieces of mdf under it - make sure the flush trim bit is aligned properly. You can look down between the middle and see how it's aligned. Remember, the flush trim bit will cut right through the trackball plate too.

Once your positive the flush trim bit won't eat up your trackball plate, put your safety glasses on (you do have safety glasses don't you?!) and slowly route out the hole while watching it closely.

It'll look like this:




Over to the right you'll see my first attempt. My pilot hole was too close to one side and messed up the jig.



Test fit it on your trackball - it should be a good fit. Now you can place your plexi over this hole, clamp it down, drill a pilot hole to put the flush trim router bit in, and cut out a perfect hole with no fear of ruining your trackball plate. This is an oversized piece of plexi. I'll trim it down once I make the CP.

I went this route because it seemed less risky.



Fits perfect!

[Crafty]

Thanks for the tips ...

I will store these away for future reference...

[leapinlew]

I have a question about flush mounted trackballs and the artwork. I am using plexi over this CP and I want to know how people who did a flush mount trackball cut the art around the lip of the trackball. Using a spare peice of textured vinyl I experimented with the flush trim router bit and the trackball hole jig. It cut a decent hole but left a couple white fuzzies, but was probably acceptable.

My next question concerns the trackball hole itself. Is it worth it to run a chamfer bit around it? It's a pretty smooth cut right now, but since I don't have the high lip model, It'll be 1/16" lower due to the lip of the trackball being 1/16" and the plexi being 1/8".  

Any suggestions? Thanks!

[Boz]

Any suggestions? Thanks!

Head over and check out Bones' cab. He has a couple of pictures of the trackball mount and some of the routing he did with it. May or may not be what you are looking for. I think what you are looking for is on page 3, 4, or 5.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=35285.0

EDIT: your cab is looking good, keep it up.

[leapinlew]

Head over and check out Bones' cab. He has a couple of pictures of the trackball mount and some of the routing he did with it. May or may not be what you are looking for. I think what you are looking for is on page 3, 4, or 5.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=35285.0

Yes! Your right - I looked through there. It appears to get this cut:



He used something called a curvy bit, but I don't see that at www.mlcswoodworking.com. I see the chamfer bits, and I'm wondering if I should go 22.5 or 45 degree angle?

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_chamf.html

[leapinlew]

Ok. So I've cut the hole for my trackball on some oversized plexi. I test fit the trackball inside the hole and clamped the plexi to my CP.


Look at that. It fits!

So, the next step is to route the excess plexi off. I did this in several stages that involved a little bit of routing, stopping the router, moving the clamps out of my way, and doing more router work. When finished my CP looked like this:


The next step was to trim up my button holes. I accomplished this by using a 5/8ths forstner bit to cut holes in the plexi. (the reason for 5/8ths is because the flushtrim bit is 1/2" and I needed a bigger hole to put the bit through). I drilled approximately in the center of each hole. It's important to note that before I started drilling on the plexiglass - I practiced on a few pieces of scrap plexi. I was able to determine that drilling through the top wasn't going to work (the plexi broke) I had to drill through the button holes while the plexi was on the table (use scrap underneath - I drilled into the base).

Preparing to drill:


Drilling all done:

You can see the router bit off to the side. It's ready to trim up the holes.

The next step is to drop the router in each hole and trim up the plexi with your flushtrim bit. Here is a shot of the plexi all routered out:

Trackball still fits!

[leapinlew]

Ok... so heres the scoop. I ordered from ClassicArcadeGrafix.com and the artwork they sent me was in bad shape - they are sending a replacement. I decided it would be a good time to practice cutting artwork. I wondered how the flushtrim bit would work on this textured vinyl.

I lined it up and gave it a cut:





Overall... it's not that smooth. I'm trying to decide how I'll cut the final product. Any suggestions?

 

[Timoe]

A hobby knife works well.

[leapinlew]

A hobby knife works well.

Is that an exact-o knife?

[n3rrd]

A hobby knife works well.

Is that an exact-o knife?

Yeah, it's the same thing.  X-Acto is just a name brand for them.  Just make sure the blade is new, and sharp... or old, and sharp.  Sharp is the important part, not the age, I suppose.

[gamecreature]

What he said. Takes a bit of patience, but a sharp blade works very well. I've found a #16 blade works well for artwork - you can cut with more of the blade than just the tip.

http://www.dickblick.com/zz574/13/

[leapinlew]

ok! Majority wins - I'll pickup a good hobby knife and be patient.

[leapinlew]

Ok! So, the t-molding took a while to get here.... but it finally got here! Here is a pic of the pedestal portion with the t-molding installed. I still need to order the smoked plexi. I'll do that friday.

I'm going to try and finish the base this weekend. Hopefully I'll have more pics to post then.

[theCoder]

Nice job on the stand !

Your player 1 & 2 button clusters are pretty far back.  What is the rational?

[Crafty]

Looking Good   

[leapinlew]

Ok... so I hee'd and haw'd around trying to decide what I was going to do about the Control Panel. I had a couple dilemas. First off - I was waiting on a few parts to show up. The T-molding, artwork from ClassicArcadeGraffix.com and a blue trackball - and my work came to a standstill waiting on them (Divemaster shipped the trackball out quickly - I was really waiting on the t-molding and art).

The second dilema was the fact that I decided to use plexiglass instead of polycarbonite. I had already created a control panel that was 3/4" and the added plexiglass would bring the total thickness 7/8". My t-molding is 3/4" and wouldn't cover the total thickness. I spent my free time looking for a 2' x 4' sheet of 5/8ths plywood (5/8" plywood + 1/8"plexi = 3/4"). I must've spent $20 in gas looking for this at all the various lumber stores. Wanna know what I ended up doing?



Yeah, I bought a full sheet of plywood to cut out a new CP... great. I'll figure out what to do with the rest of the wood later. I screwed my 3/4" CP directly to my 5/8" material and I used the flush trim router bit and created a duplicate of my 3/4" CP.





That turned out ok. I finally brought everything inside to start working in the house.

Now for the part I've been dreading. I got the new art and I bought a brand new x-acto knife. I laid out my artwork and did a practice cut of the trackball hole. I used my template I created earlier to cut the circle. I changed blades just to make sure I had a sharp one and I cut the real thing.


Notice the extra hole in the bottom of the CP. That was my test cut. One thing to be careful of if you decide you want to flush mount your trackball. Cut the trackball hole first and then cut your CP out. Then, you can center everything up and trace around your CP with the x-acto knife.

Next step was to cut out the button holes and joystick holes. I countersunk all the carriage bolts in an attempt to clean up the CP. In fact, the artwork is self adhesive, but because I have so many carriage bolts I didn't peel the backing off. 


Here is where I stand right now:





The plexiglass isn't holding down on the edges (probably because I don't have any buttons or anything to hold it down). I'm going to add 4 carriage bolts to resolve that. I didn't want to have exposed carriage bolts but I don't see another way to do it.

I need to:

• Wire up CP
• Install Coin door (spray paint it)
• Install Smoked Plexi

I'm leaving out of town next week, so it looks like I should be able to put the finishing touches on it when I return.

For a while I wasn't real happy how it was turning out, but I'm starting to dig it now. It sort of kept it's original Xenophobe look.

[leapinlew]

Nice job on the stand !

Your player 1 & 2 button clusters are pretty far back.  What is the rational?

Sup Coder? The reason being the trackball takes up so much room. I like my controls to be straight on to the screen. I could've angled them to bring them down, but overall I decided to move them up the CP and have them straight on.

Looking at the previous pics, the space between the edge and where the buttons were looks more expansive than it really is. The updated pics with the buttons in place show it more accurately.

[Timoe]

I like that youve left so much room for the trackball.  It will be nice to be able to go crazy on that thing and not have to worry about hitting some other control.

Uh, you need to add to your "to-do" list though

     -put t-molding on front of Control Panel.

[gamecreature]

Looks awesome. How'd working with the xacto knife go? Do you feel pretty comfortable with it?

[leapinlew]

Yeah, actually. It was $7 well spent. I had to psyche myself up to do it. You know how it is... you only get one shot at it and you don't want to ruin your 1 peice of expensive artwork.

[bleemus]

Looking better now that it has that CP on it and is a bit more blue, still wish that t-molding was darker... a little too pastel looking IMO.

Looks like it will play good though, that matters more than anything!

[Timoe]

Looking better now that it has that CP on it and is a bit more blue, still wish that t-molding was darker... a little too pastel looking IMO.

Looks like it will play good though, that matters more than anything!

I have the same tmolding.  I'm not sure but he may have used the flash on some of those photos which is why it looks a little lighter.

[leapinlew]

I snuck some time in today to wire up my control panel. I used the quick connects and I ran the ground wire first in a daisy chain. I used 20 gauge wiring and I used the blue, 16-18gauge, connectors so I could put 2 twenty gauge wires in the quick connect and crimp it down.



Next I ran the player 2 side with the red 20-22 gauge quick connects:


I ran the ground wires up high and the other wires were lower so I could bundle them together.



And here it is complete:

How long does this take you guys to wire up your CP? Mine took right at 3 hours. My back hurt, hands hurt, lol.

Anyhow, you can see I took an alternate method to mount my trackball. The mounting plate I have is bigger than the mounting plate template I used. So.. I can't use it. Turned out to be a blessing in disguise as I hadn't originally planned on flush mounting the trackball - but I was forced to and I'm happy how it turned out.

Oh, and Timoe - you'll notice I put some t-molding around the CP!

I'll finish this next weekend I hope!

[theCoder]

Looking sweet.  I love seeing the CP wire pictures.  On the PartyBox project, it took me about 3 hours as well.  I had fewer connections, but also had to deal with LED soldering.  I hard soldered all connections however because I really don't want to have a connector come off.  I'm not planning on re-using anything and don't expect any failures (wishful thinking I guess).

You'll be playing it in no time.   Great progress.

[Crafty]

Nice neat tidy wiring. i like the concept of one set higher than the others it's these little hints that make sense to the uninitiated when visualised...

[javeryh]

Looking really really nice so far.  Super clean wiring job too - I should take some notes for my next project...  This thing is going to be sweet when it is finished and will be the center of attention anytime you throw a party... which is the way it should be!

[Knievel]

Lookin REAL sharp. Your wiring time sounds about right, those connects are quite fiddly to work with.

I think you be swapping out those black buttons for some translucent blues at some point.

[leapinlew]

There have been a lot of things done lately, but as you guys know... it's not the kind of thing worthy of reporting. Here are some pics of where I was when I got back from my trip:


The machine is up and running!



Heres where I'm at now.

• The coin door has been painted and installed.
• I mounted the AT power supply real snug on the sidewall. Not 10 minutes after I did that did it die on me. I had another one so I installed that.
• I guess no one noticed that all my controls were hooked up backwards into the ipac? lol. I wired all of player 2's controls to player 1 and vice versa. I remapped everything in Mala and Mame.
• I tidied up the wiring inside the cabinet
• I installed neon tubes on the back of the cabinet (not sure what I think about them)
• Secured the CP

Here are some pics:






Something funky with the left side Neon. I'm going to take a look at it tomorrow. I have some superbright LED's coming that I plan on lighting the coin door and 25c buttons I got from Mike Deuce.

I have some Steel Diamond Plate sticker I'm going to apply as a kickplate.

I'm going to make a marquee holder for it.

That should do it... I been playing this one a lot and tweaking the supers to get them to feel right. The 32" television is great to play on and the sound is really good.

[Crafty]

Simply Beautifuuuulll   

[DigDreams]

A simple, clean, and elegant design.  Niceley done.

- DigDreams

[psychotech]

That's ..er, BIG. And yes, it looks mighty fine too! 

[MYX]

Verinice...verinice indeed. It seems like there is more neon coming from the left than the right. Is it mounted in the center? I think if it were equal lighting it'll be slick. I am doing a similar thing with LEDs on the back of mine.

[gamecreature]

Here's what I say: 

[theCoder]

Very nice.  Another one down.  I know its been done many times, but I really like the bold color trim on black.

What are those two lit "pockets" just above the buttons?

Very nice

[javeryh]

Amazing job!!  This thing looks like a lot of fun!! 

[leapinlew]

My original plan was to purchase some diamond plate and install it as the kickplate and a portion under the CP. I have these bolts that have LED's in them that I picked at Advanced Auto Parts to hold down the diamond plate under the CP.

New plan! Don't spend the money on diamond plate and use a diamond plate sticker wrapped around some padded foam board. I already had it... so I thought I'd see how it looks. It turned out pretty good and feels pretty sturdy.

I am going to do the kickplate in it tomorrow night.





And here it is with the bolts turned on...



As you can tell I fixed the neon on the other side. And by fix I mean I stuck another one in it's place. If the light looks uneven now, it's just because I'm taking the picture from an angle... it better be. I'll look at it again tomorrow. 

[leapinlew]

Very nice.  Another one down.  I know its been done many times, but I really like the bold color trim on black.

What are those two lit "pockets" just above the buttons?

Very nice

Thanks for the kind words.

The pockets are the original speaker holes for Xenophobe. I used cloth to hide the holes underneath the mesh grill and I mounted computer speakers behind it.

[Knievel]

Beautiful job! the big monitor must be a blast.
Those pics are just pulling me in for a game...something about that warming blue glow.
I gotta get my showcase idea back on track ASAP.

[jbullfrog]

The pockets are the original speaker holes for Xenophobe. I used cloth to hide the holes underneath the mesh grill and I mounted computer speakers behind it.

looks simply amazing man   I really like what you did with those speaker holes and the neon in back... now I need to find some way to work that in to *my* cab 

[BlinKY1337]

Amazing job I love how you mounted the speakers

[nullb0y]

that podium is MASSIVE i see why ppl critisized my thin stand....

[leapinlew]

Holy Bump!

Awesome. I been meaning to put more pictures in this, but I didn't want to do it and bump my project to the top of all the current projects. I'll post some pics on this when I get home.

@PinballJim: Thanks! Yeah... you better get that dedicated combatribes machine working. I'm sure people are lining up waiting to play that. 

@ Nullboy: I been watching your showcase come together. I like it. My podium is actually the bottom half of another game, so that explains it's size. It's nice having all the room, but if I were to build one - I'd probably build one similar to yours.

[_) (V) (-)]

Dude this is way cool!

Can you tell us more about these bolts with the lights in them?

[leapinlew]

The bolts I got from Advanced Auto. They are expensive though. $9.99 for 2. They look like this:

http://www.globalintersection.com/auto-parts/store/ShowProd.asp?idProduct=36304&idRef=Froogle

The brand I used was OPTX:

[nullb0y]

oh okay u went the easy way lol so... i gotta build my monitor stand before winter lmao.... not gonna happen... im to focused on the podium....