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| Some Star Wars Yoke help, please? |
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| KMWS:
Anyone have any pictures of the Star Wars yoke from behind showing the triggers? I can only find pictures with the thumb buttons. Not to mention that I can't recall if the backs of the grips looked exactly like the fronts, or if they had molding for the fingers or something. I could also use some measurements for the yoke and grips as well. Menace's yoke looks great, but the measurements seem a bit off as it seems like it may be a bit shorter and stouter than the actual yoke. If you're reading this Menace, please don't take that the wrong way, as you did a fantastic job and I will likely largely base my yoke on yours with some slight modifications. I'm sadly still not really any closer to attempting my own cabinet anytime in the near future. It's the same two large problems as always, time and money. Anyway, I may at least finally try building a stand alone Star Wars yoke. I've been gathering pictures and such, but finding pictures of the grips showing the triggers has been a problem. By the way, can pretty much most gaming controllers be used for making a yoke, or does the Microsoft Sidewinder Dual Strike have something special about it other than already being mapped out? This will be my first controller build, so yeah, I'm pretty much a newbie :p |
| NoOne=NBA=:
The triggers are actual trigger-shaped pieces. The Dual Strikes are used because they have two analog axes, use pots that are close enough to the 5k ones used on the Star Wars yokes (20k, IIRC), and have sufficient button support to allow easy hacking. Other options are the A-pac from Ultimarc, and the AKI from DaveB on the boards here. Both of those support multiple axis analog controls, and buttons. You could also use an analog joystick for the hack, but the results with hacking 5k pots, in place of the 100k pots that are standard, my vary significantly. I've got mine hooked to an AKI, and couldn't be happier with it. I did that prior to the introduction of the A-pac, so I can't give a personal recommendation on that, other than to say that all of Andy's other products I have used have been top quality. |
| KMWS:
--- Quote ---The triggers are actual trigger-shaped pieces. --- End quote --- Okay, I'd still like a picture of them though, as I'd like to try and simulate them pretty closely if possible. --- Quote ---The Dual Strikes are used because they have two analog axes, use pots that are close enough to the 5k ones used on the Star Wars yokes (20k, IIRC), and have sufficient button support to allow easy hacking. --- End quote --- Okay, unfortunately I don't understand much about the pots and all the 5K, 20K, and 100K classifications. --- Quote ---You could also use an analog joystick for the hack, but the results with hacking 5k pots, in place of the 100k pots that are standard, my vary significantly. I've got mine hooked to an AKI, and couldn't be happier with it. I did that prior to the introduction of the A-pac, so I can't give a personal recommendation on that, other than to say that all of Andy's other products I have used have been top quality. --- End quote --- Okay, I'll give them a look as I try to get a better understanding of pots. Thanks for the help. Still looking for any rear grip pictures and yoke measurements that anyone out there can point me to :) |
| GoPodular.com:
Pots = Potentiometers. Just think of pots like a stereo knob. You need a controller PCB that can handle the "volume range" of the pots in the yoke correctly. I don't recall what the pot ratings are either, so if we use 5k for the yoke and 20k for the Dual Strike, and put it all together: The yoke will only use 5k of the "allowed" 20k range. At first you will only use 1/4 of the range allowed (5/20), but it will automagically correct itself when you calibrate it in windows. If you used a 100k or 150k pot-equipped controller PCB, you'd only use 1/20 or less of the range allowed (5/100). Windows may have trouble with the automagic stuff. Too much of a difference in the ranges. Note: Audio pots are "tapered" meaning the further you turn, the faster they move. If you put audio pots on a controller it would move faster the further away from center you moved. Not good. "Linear" pots keep the same speed throughout their range of motion. A little twist at the very top moves the same distance as a little twist near center. 1up has a great writeup on using the Dual Strike: "Analog Controls to Dual Strike USB hack" on the right-hand side |
| KMWS:
--- Quote ---Pots = Potentiometers. --- End quote --- Fortunately, someone had already told me that :) --- Quote ---Just think of pots like a stereo knob. --- End quote --- Good analogy. --- Quote ---You need a controller PCB that can handle the "volume range" of the pots in the yoke correctly. I don't recall what the pot ratings are either, so if we use 5k for the yoke and 20k for the Dual Strike, and put it all together: The yoke will only use 5k of the "allowed" 20k range. At first you will only use 1/4 of the range allowed (5/20), but it will automagically correct itself when you calibrate it in windows. If you used a 100k or 150k pot-equipped controller PCB, you'd only use 1/20 or less of the range allowed (5/100). Windows may have trouble with the automagic stuff. Too much of a difference in the ranges. Audio pots are "tapered" meaning the further you turn, the faster they move. If you put audio pots on a controller it would move faster the further away from center you moved. Not good. "Linear" pots keep the same speed throughout their range of motion. A little twist at the very top moves the same distance as a little twist near center. --- End quote --- That makes things a little bit clearer now. Thanks. --- Quote ---1up has a great writeup on using the Dual Strike: "Analog Controls to Dual Strike USB hack" on the right-hand side --- End quote --- Yup, I've been there. There is a shot of the Turbo Sub yoke from the side showing the triggers and grip shape, but I can't recall if the exact same grips are used on the Star Wars yoke. I was curious about alternative controllers as I'd prefer something more readily available than the Sidewider, which I have to track down online (I prefer to get things at the stores when possible), a controller that is both PC and Mac compatible (my family and I have both, and I don't know if the Sidewinder would work on both), and finally I'd prefer gutting something a wee bit less expensive than the Sidewinder (if possible). |
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