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Cub Cadet or John Deere??

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JackTucky:
When i was looking for a bagger for my LT155 (bought from a JD store), I searched around the web and found out that the chain stores sell cheaper made versions then the dealers.

Something about the JD dealer ones using Cast Iron for parts and the chain stores using plastic and aluminum.

Also, I talked to my dealer  about them.  He said he wouldn't service them.  There is usually one JD dealer near the chain that makes a commission on each one sold in HDepot or Lowes.  He's the one responsible for servicing them.

My dealer had too many lawn mowers to maintain, he said he refused the chain store ones.

I beat the heck out of my JD.  It kicks ass.  It pulls my 300lbs and a trailer full of rocks up hills, and never complains.

Jacktucky

DrewKaree:
If you're going to get a zero-turn, the Cub's are nicer (to me). 

In the price range you're looking at, the JD's feel "different" than the decent ones landscapers use.  I got to test a diesel zero-turn JD that was smooth as butter, while their standard JD's matched up to the Toro's we use.  The JD's in the price range you're talking about feel somewhat chintzier and something else seemed to be missing.  The Cub's felt pretty similar to the one I use daily (which is an $8000 Toro), just smaller.

If you're going with a garden tractor type of mower, the JD's tend to be more reliable from the guys I've talked to, and tend to be packed with more "useful" features for the homeowner.

See if you can find a "Power Center" type of dealer around you.  They'll generally carry a few different brands, and should also offer some sort of service department.  For an idea of a difference in price for replacement parts, find out how much a new set of blades are, how much the LONGEST belt is to replace, and if there's a few spindles (big round pulley wheels the belts wrap around) that need greasing, how much does one cost to replace. 

Also, don't skimp.  If you end up needing replacement parts, go with OEM parts.  Your mower is one area where you're SERIOUSLY going to get what you pay for.  I can save $10/blade, but the difference in wear rates makes it a losing proposition, and complete loss due to damage of a blade happens more frequently with non-OEM parts.  Match OEM prices to OEM prices.

Lastly, Toro's aren't worth the money (to me) for the homeowner.  They're generally pricier, but parts are WAY easier to come by.  If you're a homeowner, the odds you'll need replacement parts should be rare enough that it shouldn't be a selling feature.  I know you didn't ask about 'em, but figured I'd throw it in there.  Honda makes some of the best push mowers on the market, but be prepared when you go to buy one.  The price differential is huge, but again, there's a reason they cost what they do.  They're WORTH it.

squirrellydw:
Thanks, I like the 300 series JD but not sure I can justify $3000 for a 1/2 acre.  I have heard that the "real" JDs don't start till you get in to the 300 series.

JeepMonkey:

--- Quote from: squirrellydw on June 05, 2006, 10:50:33 pm ---Thanks, I like the 300 series JD but not sure I can justify $3000 for a 1/2 acre.  I have heard that the "real" JDs don't start till you get in to the 300 series.

--- End quote ---

I am a big believer that you get what you pay for when it comes to yard equipment.  Say you pay 3K for a nice JD mower.  It should last you a good 10 years or more if you take good care of it.  That is $300/year.  The cheap ass push mower runs around $150.  So for twice the price of a throw away push mower you get a hella nice rider which will save you lots of mowing time.

I recently moved into a new home, and my dad gave me his 12 year old weed eater and blower.   They are both higher end Echo models, and both still work great after 12 years of use.

If you spend the money for quality yard equipment, you will most often come out ahead.

DrewKaree:
Not saying you were saying this at all, just commenting.  10 years is an insanely low amount of time to expect a riding mower to last, so you can lower that amount even more.  Simple maintenance (seriously, LOOK AT THE DAMN MANUAL, YOU KNUCKLE DRAGGERS!) will keep your stuff running just fine, and will help you avoid more expensive repairs or at least make them far less frequent. 

As an example, the spindles on my machine are supposed to be greased every 8 hours.  We do it daily, which actually works out to more than 8 hours, but without doing it, a spindle can burn and seize up in 2 days, and WILL burn and seize up in a week.  This means I have to spend $130 on a new spindle, and lost time in taking it apart and replacing it.  Now, if I had no clue how to take it apart, simply not greasing the dang thing would turn into a $350 expense.  Oh, and that's just hoping and praying that it's only a single spindle, and not all 3.  Belt is cracking?  If it's not replaced because I try to push it, and it breaks, not only do I end up having to replace the belt ANYWAY, but it normally breaks 2 other integral parts, which then end up adding an additional $240 to the price of the belt I shoulda replaced.

My parents have a riding mower that's over 30 years old, and a push mower that's even older.  They use this stuff at their vacation place, and have replaced them with 2 Honda's that are currently 5 and 6 years old and look like they're brand new.  Take care of your stuff, and you'll end up spending FAR less than just buying something cheap to begin with.

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