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cab covering opinion
SNAAAKE:
its like a laminate whole sale place spidemonkey...
I am telling you..its the exact same thing.First when i heard i was like "WTF :o"...wow.
So i didnt believe the lady because i called first then i decided to take the train and take a look..it was exact same regular black laminate then i bought some and i carried 2 4x8 sheets laminate home..dont have a car so i just had to carry it around like that..they do roll it for you though.in a box.
Here is the # if anyone was interested...
First Wood & Laminates Inc
16 Eckford St, Brooklyn, NY 11222
Phone: (718) 218-7800
eightbit:
Its possible and easy to believe that there could be that much of a price difference.
I work for a retailer I know Walmart sells items for less than what we can buy them for sometimes.
Frostillicus:
--- Quote from: Xphile on March 05, 2003, 11:11:13 pm ---
--- Quote from: Frostillicus on March 05, 2003, 10:35:18 pm ---
--- Quote from: Xphile on March 05, 2003, 12:19:16 am --- I dunno if it's normal, but with laminate you don't have to risk it..
--- End quote ---
Actually that's not normal if you do it right - look at the finish on the cab i made(link under avatar) .
--- End quote ---
I was talking about the hairline cracks not being normal, not the grain.., the grain wasn't showing after the second primer...it was the edge grain that I put the rest of the coats on for..didn't wanna use t-mold :-)..turned out great except for the cracks...I'll take a pic and edit with it in a bit..
<edit>
thumbnail:
Really hard to get a good picture of these, but about 2 inches to the left of the blue lines (Crack is running vertical) is one of them (of two on this side).. the paint itself hasn't cracked, it's the top layer of ply underneath that's cracked.
full size (33kb) here:
http://members.shaw.ca/space_harrier/sh.jpg
--- End quote ---
hmm..I can't really make out the cracks, but I'll take your word for it. You prob used low-grade plywood to begin with, or it wasn't completely dry when you painted it. I'd recommend some good hardwood plywood - not cabinet grade, that's just too $$$. But other than that - if you seal wood correctly it shouldn't crack. And as long as it's completely dry when you make build it, it should not crack either. It may feel dry, but on the inside layers it could still have moisture. That causes the cracking - the ends dry faster than the middle and they split. Especially in rapidly changing enviroment, like moving it from cold garage to hot and dry basement, for example.
Xphile:
Frostillicus:
re-read the 2nd and 3rd paragraphs of my first post in this thread (that would be post #4 from the top).
I'm a woodworker by trade..I just don't like posting some 'absolutes' - ie: "The ply dried out and cracked because it had a high moisture content from sitting next to the roll up door at home depot and I was in too much of a hurry to get it done to do the right thing and let it dry first"...that makes me look stupid, (the fact that I was <or just sloppy) is irrelevent, I just don't want to Look that way.. :) )
Distortion:
--- Quote from: SNAAAKE on March 05, 2003, 10:15:08 pm ---Everything in my cab is done without a router..i did the t-molding slots with a dremel.And cut laminate with plexi glass cutter..score it couple of times and snap..works great(its cheap solution for me) :)
--- End quote ---
I don't have a router, but I do have a dremel tool...haven't used it in some time now. How would I go about doing t-molding with it, and would I be better (straighter) to try and track someone down and borrow a real router for the t-molding?