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Q-bert controls software asjustment ?
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juggle50:
Okay, I think I get it now.  The protection diode should look like the one on my  knocker right.  How is this new diagram.  Also, is this the right fuse

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102747&cp

This might sound really moronic but do you solder the fuse on there or do you get some type of fuse holder?

Level42:
Yes the diode on the knocker is actualy performing the same function. A relay and a knocker both use coils and have more or less the same charcteristics.

That fuse is fine. Use this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102786&cp=&pg=4&origkw=fuseholder&kw=fuseholder&parentPage=search
fusholder. Fuses have the possibility to blow out (that's what they're for) and you want to easily replace it if that happens. Even if you get it soldered (probably not, the metal on those caps is probably very solder-unfriendly it would be very clumsy.

I don't think your diagram is fully correct I don't really understand your plus signs...I'll draw a new diagram tha should work in my next posting.
Level42:
While drawing the diagram I was thinking of this:

Juggle, what relay are you gonna use ? You have to keep in mind the current drawn by the relay. The ledwizz is intended for supplying enough current for LEDs. Those use very little current (let's say 20 mA). The relay suggested by 2600 is using 90 mA f.i. It could be fine, but better be safe then sorry !

I checked the manual of the Ledwizz on GGG's site, but it doesn't say anything about how much current each port can deliver. There is a remark about the TOTAL current drawn though. Don't know if you also use your LEDwizz for driving lots of leds (probably, why else would you buy it) but if the total current is over 500 mA you must use seperate wiring for the +5 V (see the manual).

Check with RandyT of GGG how much current each port can deliver before proceeding.


Anyway, here's the diagram I made. Be aware that the knocker already has a diode on board. When you look at the diode there is a line at one side of the diode. This corresponds with the line of the symbol in the diagram. In this application (!) the wire of the diode that is closes to the line should be connected to the PLUS side.

It's so hard to explain through text only :S Hope you understand. It is essential to wire up the diodes correctly.

To confuse you even more: some relays already have a diode built-in. check with the supplier. However, it doesn't hurt to have two diodes....
juggle50:
Thanks Level 42,

I think I understand your diagram.  Thank you for taking the time to do that.  I would like to learn how to read those better.  Am I right in saying that the negative wire from the power supply goes directly to the knocker and the positive passes through the relay so it can break/ complete the circuit?

That is a good question about the Ma's coming from the ledwiz.  I will PM Randy today.  I actually only have a few led's in my cab which is why I thought about this project origionally.  I wanted more out of my ledWiz.   :) 

Unfortunately this project will move pretty slowly in the next few months as work starts picking up this week.  So I will be reporting progress rather slowly.

Thanks again Level

Level42:
Hey Juggle, you're welcome !

Yes, you understand it correctly. So it's the plus of the 30V supply going to one side of the fuse (doesn't matter which side), the other side of the fuse (or better: fuseholder) is going to the common (C) contact of the relay. The NO (Normaly Open) contact of the relay is than wired to the plus side of the knocker (did you get what side of the diode that is ?). Then the other side of the knocker is wired straight to the - side of the 30V supply.

Well, it's going to be some time here as well, since some guy at tntamusements accidently sent my knocker by ship......... :(  Well at least they're honest enought to admit it AND they refunded me the difference in shipping costs right away, so I still believe tntamusements is a great company to deal with.
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