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| Disgrntld:
I really like the fact that I wouldn't have to route away any of the underside of my CP using your idea NoOne. So you recommend drilling the large diameter first? Since I have access to a router, do you think it would be easier to drill the small hole first and use a rabbit bit (http://www.routerbits.com/rabbet.jpg)? The amount of choices are just crazy building your own CP, the more I learn, the more questions I have! :) |
| NoOne=NBA=:
If you do a few test holes, to find out the exact bit sizes you need to get the right size finished holes, that will work great. I personally prefer forstner bits to do it because I like all the curly-cue shavings they make, vs. the dust from the router. I've also cheated on a bunch of solid wood panels, and just drilled a 1-1/8 hole, and jammed the buttons into them. Buttons don't get the upward stress that you would with a joystick, so they don't pop out of the holes. Yet another option, especially if you are using the long buttons, is to make the CP a little thicker by creating a laminate. I don't know the exact thicknesses you'd need, but you'd need to drill pilot holes with both pieces attached together, then drill the large hole completely through the top piece, and the small hole through the thinner bottom piece. Glue them up, and you should be able to screw the switches directly to the bottom of the bottom piece. I build alot of my CP's as laminates because that allows me to create more complex designs than you can with simple routing. An example of this is the recessed dust washers. If you just rout them, you have to cover them with plexi. If the top layer of your CP is 1/4" plywood, you can cut the hole necessary for the joystick itself into the top layer, and then use a hole-saw to cut the second layer. This also allows you to put T-nuts into the second layer, and cover them with the top layer. Oscar has a really good tutorial on it HERE. I usually use wood where he used the plexi on the top, and just glue it to the layer below. That lets you use putty on the seam, and just sand the whole thing flush. What it doesn't allow is for taking it back apart, but that's never been an issue on the CPs I've built. |
| Disgrntld:
Ok, I think I understand (famous last words, eh?), though I still haven't decided which technique I'll use. Either way I'll need a Forstner bit.. My question is, which size Forstner bit should I buy? I already have some microswitch player buttons that are 1-1/8" (standard size for microswitch buttons, correct?). If I go with leaf switch buttons everywhere else, will I need a second bit of 1-3/16", or is there some way I can force leafs into the smaller 1-1/8" (I'll probably be using Lexan on top, I don't think it'll be as maleable as the wood you use NoOne). Come to think of it, maybe if I tighten the player switches enough, I could use the 1-3/16" on them and avoid any "jiggling" in the hole.. Just trying to save money, those Forstners aren't cheap! :o Also, with the larger diameter leaf buttons, is the standard distance between button centers still 1-1/2" apart or just personal preference? What do you leaf buttons guys use? |
| NoOne=NBA=:
--- Quote from: Disgrntld on May 15, 2006, 01:28:31 pm ---My question is, which size Forstner bit should I buy? --- End quote --- You can actually use spade bits, they just don't leave as nice of a bottom to the hole. --- Quote ---Come to think of it, maybe if I tighten the player switches enough, I could use the 1-3/16" on them and avoid any "jiggling" in the hole.. Just trying to save money, those Forstners aren't cheap! --- End quote --- The 1-3/16" bit shouldn't present any problems. Don't go with a 1-1/4" though. The buttons will cover that, but it's kind of a pain to keep them centered properly as you tighten them. I tried that way back when, because I already had the 1-1/4" bit, and it annoyed me to the point that I went and got the right sized one. --- Quote ---Also, with the larger diameter leaf buttons, is the standard distance between button centers still 1-1/2" apart or just personal preference? What do you leaf buttons guys use? --- End quote --- Absolute minimum on most leaf switches is right at 1-3/8". The bezels on the buttons will actually touch at that distance. I usually space mine just a hair over 1-3/8" because I like the buttons as close as possible, but don't want to accidentally get the holes TOO close, and have to ream them to get the buttons to fit next to each other. |
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