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Router Bits
shmokes:
Can I use any 15 degree angle chamfer bit to route the edge of a piece of 3/4" thick wood across the entire thickness of the board so it goes from this:
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To this:
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And not this:
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Will multiple passes finish it off right if it won't route a 3/4" sheet in one go? I'm trying to decide whether to put down $30 for one chamfer bit. The precision of the cut will make it worth it if it will make it uniformly across the entire thickness of the wood, but I don't want to waste $30 on a bit that I will probably never use again if it won't even work for this project. It's questionable whether I even want to use it for this project.
Question 2: There are VERY low priced (low quality too, I assume) 50 piece router bit sets on Ebay that include multiple chamfer bits but they list them as 9.5mm, 13mm, 16mm, 19mm. Can these numbers be translated into angles? I'm considering picking one of these up, but I would be very disappointed if none of those chamfer bits would do the job that I expressly bought the set for.
Obviously I am new to routers. I have never routered anything in my life. All that is about to change so I really appreciate any info that could be passed on ;)
Larry Smith:
re: question2
I went with the cheap bits on ebay. If they last 1/2 as long as the more expensive bits I'm way ahead. Also I can see what bits I use most often and replace them with good ones if need be.
RandyT:
--- Quote from: shmokes on March 01, 2003, 12:14:55 pm ---Can I use any 15 degree angle chamfer bit to route the edge of a piece of 3/4" thick wood across the entire thickness of the board so it goes from...
--- End quote ---
If you are trying to do this on a straight edge, a table/circular saw is a better tool for the job.
RandyT
Xphile:
--- Quote from: RandyT on March 01, 2003, 02:08:22 pm ---
--- Quote from: shmokes on March 01, 2003, 12:14:55 pm ---Can I use any 15 degree angle chamfer bit to route the edge of a piece of 3/4" thick wood across the entire thickness of the board so it goes from...
--- End quote ---
If you are trying to do this on a straight edge, a table/circular saw is a better tool for the job.
RandyT
--- End quote ---
Randy is right, if you want to bevel a straight edge, you're better off using table saw or circular saw w/straight edge clamped to it...if you're going to be routeing a non-straight piece, (and you say you don't want a shoulder) you would need a secondary surface for the bearing to ride on...eg: a jig/template tacked or clamped to the underside of the piece you are routering...in that case your 15 degree bit would act as a beveled flush/trim bit.. (if you don't mind the 1/8th inch or less flat spot the bearing need to ride on on the finished piece, then you don't need the jig/template...)
Wienerdog:
A 15