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keywiz help - not working - need help

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mj147:

Here is a even an easier idea to hooking everything up   ;D

Hook up any wire from the IDE cable to any button you choose (not your grounds, vcc, shaz n such) and just change the Mame default inputs.  :o

Ive done this with 2 of my Eco's and everything sets up fast and easy-
I guess for ~20 bucks some folks want cake n icecream too

Both been up and running for about a year with no probs- Great product Randy BTW  :applaud:

 ;)
mj147

quarterback:


--- Quote from: mj147 on April 15, 2006, 09:03:39 am ---Here is a even an easier idea to hooking everything up   ;D

Hook up any wire from the IDE cable to any button you choose (not your grounds, vcc, shaz n such) and just change the Mame default inputs.  :o
--- End quote ---

Gee, I wish I'd thought of that  ::)

Clearly if that were the best solution, Randy wouldn't even bother marking the boards at all. 


--- Quote ---I guess for ~20 bucks some folks want cake n icecream too
--- End quote ---

I'm not asking for "cake n icecream" or any extra or add-on at all.  I was just looking for a rationale behind something that seemed unecessarily complicated

michelevit:

just want to let everyone know that i built my controller over the weekend
and the joywiz worked great. i shows up as gpwiz game controller. it is small enough
that i was able to just hot glue it to the inside of my controller. works great! much easier than
hacking a keyboard which is what i've normally done. i'd definatley would recommend this option.



Tiger-Heli:

Joywiz ???

Just want to chime in on the discussion between Quarterback and RandyT.

If you know followed the history - i.e. paid attention when the KeyWiz was released - the button labels make much more sense.  My KeyWiz Max is not confusing at all.  The KeyWiz Eco was designed to have the majority of the features of the max in a smaller, lower cost footprint.  That meant that the pins weren't ordered as logically as they could have been, but he also didn't want to completely change the labelling so he didn't confuse users who were familiar with the Max and were now buying additional Eco's.

As I've said before, RandyT got this RIGHT on the KeyWiz.  Quoting from my page:


--- Quote ---Level of Usage

Of the three main encoders, I've noticed for a long time that the I-PAC is the most beginner friendly, the MK64 (discontinued) is the most advanced in setup, and the KeyWiz is somewhere in between.

For example - the I-PAC has inputs labeled 1SW1 through 1SW8 which always leads to people posting questions like "What games need 8 buttons?" (Doesn't help when the X-Arcade uses this set-up too!). (Short answer: None, but they're handy for Joystick 3 or dedicated admin buttons).  Then, when you get more advanced, you get to, "Well, I was going to use 1SW8 for Rotary Joystick CCW, but then the NumLock LED will flash when I rotate the joystick, and that's annoying, so I can reprogram 1SW8 to "1" and reprogram "Start1" to "V" and then I wire the Start1 button to the 1SW8 input, and the Rotary Joystick CCW output to the Start1 input, etc." which gets confusing.

OTOH, the MK64 just says "This Pin is Input 00, these Pins are Inputs 01 through 63, you figure out how to program them!"  Which means the end-user has to figure out "What inputs do I really want, and what can I live without?" and occasionally "There, 64 inputs, now let's build: Where do I wire Coin 4 to? Oops, I didn't assign it anywhere!, Hmmmn, what do I need to drop out now to make room for it?" However, this is preferable if you know how you plan to lay out your panel and may not want the same inputs as everyone else.

The KeyWiz strikes a nice balance, IMHO, in that the Joystick Keys are pretty well set in stone, but all other terminals are alpha-numeric, but the default codeset gives hints about what to include.  The KeyWiz Max 1.5 even improved on the previous version in that inputs are now shown as U1 and U2 (previously and on the Eco, they are both U, but the position on the board makes the usage clear).

--- End quote ---
One recommendation I would have made was that the Player two joystick inputs could have been lower case (U,D,L,R for Player 1, u,d,l,r for Player 2), but I don't know if the board silk-screening process would have allowed for this.

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