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| quarterback:
--- Quote from: RandyT on April 14, 2006, 10:23:04 pm ---Read my edits. --- End quote --- --- Quote ---BTW, do you know how to count from 1 to 40 on a 40-pin header? It is not necessarily intuitive to someone who hasn't done it before. --- End quote --- This I can understand. I can see where you would be concerned that not everybody necessarily knows how to count up and down and across the header. But, that being said, that's exactly what I have to do when I use the diagram. Since I'm counting wires, linearly, across my cable, I then have to go to the diagram and count up and down. So I'm not sure that all of that potential problem has been eliminated. Like I said, I think you and I are simply imagining the KeyWiz being used in different ways. I can't imagine having to look at the board to determine what wire should be connected where. If 3 of my buttons get disconnected, I don't want to have to pull the IDE cable, look to see what letter attaches to which wire and then trace the disconnected wires back to that letter on the board, then go to a chart to see what that letter-wire is really connected to. It makes much more sense for me to count across the end of the IDE cable that's actually attaching to the buttons. I see that wires "3" "5" and "7" are disconnected and then I can see which buttons should be attached to "3", "5" and "7" OTOH you, if I understand correctly, would use the board by reading the letters right off the board itself. But, again, beyond that, that's only part of the confusion I see. The other part is that connection-indication-letters are repeated even though they indicate different keystrokes. The "U" connection doesn't do the same thing as the other "U" connection. I think there's a reason that: composite A/V cables use different colors for video, right-audio and left-audio, or that RJ-45 wiring uses unique color coding for each wire, or why home electrical wiring doesn't consist of 3 or 4 wires which are all red. The color or the identifying letter, number or symbol is unique because the purpose of each wire is unique. --- Quote ---Anyone who finds this too confusing, should probably pony up the extra $14 for the MAX version. --- End quote --- I feel like you're upset with me for bringing this up. I can't believe that nobody has ever questioned the layout before or found it to be un-intuitive. In any case, I love your products Randy and have great respect for what you provide at a reasonable price. Don't be pissed just because I would prefer each wire to be uniquely identified and in a linear fashion. Peace. |
| RandyT:
--- Quote from: quarterback on April 14, 2006, 10:40:13 pm ---Like I said, I think you and I are simply imagining the KeyWiz being used in different ways. I can't imagine having to look at the board to determine what wire should be connected where. --- End quote --- That may be, but many ECOs are used in the way I am describing, with users soldering wires directly to the inputs. In fact, I can safely say that many more go out without headers than with. --- Quote ---The "U" connection doesn't do the same thing as the other "U" connection. --- End quote --- Like I said, it comes from the MAX version, the need to make the software usable with it and the fact that there isn't enough room for 2-digits next to each pin. If you look to the right side of the connector there is a J1 and J2 next to the pin rows. The UDLR inputs should be labeled U1, D1, L1, R1, U2, D2, L2 and R2 indicating the joystick up, down left and right connections for player 1 and 2. Not enough room on the board, so this was the solution. Was it a great one? Probably not, but there weren't too many others, given the constraints. This label scheme, BTW, makes much more sense on the MAX version. --- Quote ---Don't be pissed just because I would prefer each wire to be uniquely identified and in a linear fashion. --- End quote --- If you haven't already, print my last post. It should make it easier for you or anyone else using an IDE cable. FWIW, I'm not angry. It just gets a little frustrating when I find myself defending design decisions that were meant to find middle ground from 5 different directions. Ideally, there should be 2 or 3 different versions of the Eco and probably a software version for each to make it as intuitive as possible for the different ways it can be used. Unfortunately, doing such things also increase costs dramatically, which pretty much defeats the purpose of the product. The ECO is a high-performance / minimum cost / minimum convenience product. The MAX increases convenience at a price. My point was that the MAX is more intuitive because it's the original product around which the software was designed and there is more board space for labels (and of course, screw terminals :) .) If one doesn't want to deal with the complexities of the ECO, the MAX is simply a better choice. And while I'm sure a number of folks might feel the same way you do, only about .1% of my customers have mentioned it to me. Most likely because the first thing the rest probably did was take a few minutes to make a chart like the one in my last post :). But I will look at adding that table to the printed docs if there is value to be found in it. RandyT |
| Xam:
--- Quote from: RandyT on April 13, 2006, 08:07:45 pm ---Whoah....It's getting crazy in here :) First fun fact: There is no such animal as a USB KeyWiz. A KeyWiz is PS/2 only, for reasons I have made all too clear in the past. If you have a USB controls interface from GroovyGameGear, it would be of the GP-Wiz variety. GP stands for "gamepad" as that is how these performance-oriented interfaces are viewed by the PC when connected. The KeyWiz configuration software is not designed for, nor will it work with the GP-Wiz line of controls interfaces. For 99% of what these will be used for, the native gaming control output of the GP-Wiz encoders will work fine. Seeing that games are designed primarily with gaming controllers in mind, it's not a wonder. However, it may be advantageous to have one of the buttons output a key like ESC or ENTER for the few emulator programs that might require it. RBJoy and JoytoKey are fine 3rd party freeware apps that will let you do this. These can be found on the web, or I can email them upon request. RandyT --- End quote --- Responses such as these are why I started buying from GGG. Just got my key wiz in today! Man...talk about a small footprint! Got all the essentials for building my cab...now if the wife would just let me start cutting wood (gotta wait til we move >:() Xam |
| RandyT:
Here's something else that might be of value. Basically, which button I would hook to each of the wires. Again, red stripe on the 40-pin cable to the left (toward the PS/2 connector) : 1. +5V 2. GROUND 3. GROUND 4. GROUND 5. P1 BUTTON 1 6. P1 BUTTON 8 7. P1 BUTTON 2 8. P1 BUTTON 7 9. P1 BUTTON 3 10. P1 BUTTON 6 11. P1 BUTTON 4 12. P1 BUTTON 5 13. P2 BUTTON 1 14. P2 BUTTON 2 15. P2 BUTTON 3 16. P2 BUTTON 4 17. P2 BUTTON 5 18. P2 BUTTON 6 19. P2 BUTTON 7 20. P2 BUTTON 8 21. P1 START 22. P2 START 23. PAUSE 24. COIN1 25. COIN2 26. ENTER 27. TAB 28. ESC 29. JOY1 RIGHT 30. JOY2 UP 31. JOY1 LEFT 32. JOY2 DOWN 33. JOY1 DOWN 34. JOY2 LEFT 35. JOY1 UP 36. JOY2 RIGHT 37. GROUND 38. GROUND 39. Shazaaam! 40. N/C Should be correct, but it was done quickly. Probably only need 6 buttons per player, so ignore 7 and 8 or use them as you'd like. Let me know if I boned it. RandyT |
| quarterback:
--- Quote from: RandyT on April 14, 2006, 11:22:27 pm ---If you haven't already, print my last post. It should make it easier for you or anyone else using an IDE cable. --- End quote --- Thanks. --- Quote ---FWIW, I'm not angry. It just gets a little frustrating when I find myself defending design decisions that were meant to find middle ground from 5 different directions. --- End quote --- Dig it. Sometimes I can't help being frustrating :) But seriously, I wasn't trying to be annoying. You'll note I've had the KeyWiz for over a year and never complained; I only mentioned it because of this thread. Consider me a completely satisfied customer. Thanks Randy |
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