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Slikstick still in business?
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ArcadEd:

--- Quote from: RobotronNut on April 10, 2006, 11:25:54 pm ---
--- Quote from: Falkentyne on April 10, 2006, 06:54:52 pm ---My problem is that they did an absolutely -horrible- job on the joystick mounting.
The joysticks weren't even routed..even the -x-arcade-, which is mass produced, at least had the ticks routed correctly !  So the joysticks sat too low in the panel for anyone with big hands.

Also, the joysticks were simply force-screwed __IN__ to the wood.  What happened to the normal bolt through method.  And before someone thinks I'm nit-picking, one of the joystick screwholes became stripped and I had to screw another hole myself.   :lame:

--- End quote ---

i don't like the bolt-thru method. i don't like the look, and i'm pretty sure i wouldn't like the feel. if you don't bolt thru, you need a lot of wood to hold the screws, hence no routing, unless you use RickDIII's method (which i like, but it eats up a bit of real estate.)

so far, my slikstik is holding up well. i haven't heard of anyone else ripping out a joystick, but would like to know if this is a widespread problem with bottom-mounted joysticks in 3/4" panels.

w.r.t. communication: i found slikstik's email communication to be unreliable but their phone availability was good.


--- End quote ---

I've always used the bolt through method, I'm sure I understand what isn't to like about the look?

For example


I do all my CPs that way.
RobotronNut:
i guess i don't understand the bolt-thru method. i thought it meant that the heads of bolts protrude visibly thru the surface of your control panel, like on the x-arcade.

perhaps you're talking about routing just for the bolt heads and applying laminate after installing the joysticks? i know that's a popular and good-looking method, but i still prefer the simple bottom-mount method, because it's easier to swap components (if i'm understanding the methods correctly).
ArcadEd:
Basically I route the bottom like anyone else for the joystick base.  I use flathead bolts/screws slightly countersunk through the top.  Gorilla glue is used on the heads to secure them into the hole.  That combined with the contact cement used for the formica (I use extra on the bolt heads) makes sure they won't turn in place.

Then underneath you just slide the base into place and use some nuts to bolt it down.  If you need to remove the base, just losen the nuts and pull it off.

Like I said, that's just the way I have always done it to hide the bolt heads, but make it the most secure.  At least in my opinion :).  That's the great thing about DIY.  All of our opinions :)
RobotronNut:
your method sounds good to me. i take it you've rarely or never had a bolt come loose?

if i were to use your method, i might prefer to use a square head bolt and mortise a square hole for it. what do you think of that idea?
ArcadEd:
It's a good idea.  The problem is finding a flat head bolt that has a square neck like a carriage bolt. Otherwise you don't have enough room after the route to get the head flush with the wood.  Hopefully I described that ok.

I'm still on the lookout for such a thing, and I might look through some catalogs this weekend just to see if anything sticks out.

But no, I have not has a bolt come loose yet.  Doesn't mean they can't if you really crank on them.  Luckily, you can press down with you finger where the nut head is, on top of the formica and get it tightened if you have too.  There were times I had one come loose before I started using the gorilla glue first.
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