Author Topic: ghetto cab - completed (Read 5155 times)

ghettodish · « **on:** February 23, 2011, 08:46:27 pm »

Not too bad for one days work. Plans call for 20" LCD (vertical) , trackball & 8-way stick, light-up speakers, P4. This cab is my my own design.

Donkbaca · « **Reply #1 on:** February 23, 2011, 08:48:19 pm »

looks a lot like the old nintendo cabs

ghettodish · « **Reply #2 on:** February 23, 2011, 09:01:14 pm »

Kinda sorta...It's bigger in all directions. I made the control panel 10" deep to accommodate the trackball.
Here is a link to the Nintendo cab I built:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=108996.0

VanillaGorilla · « **Reply #3 on:** February 24, 2011, 12:35:31 am »

Looking good! I see the nintendo influence also.

how is that ryobi tablesaw treating you?

Termin8tor · « **Reply #4 on:** February 24, 2011, 06:51:00 am »

Good start, got a theme in mind?

leapinlew · « **Reply #5 on:** February 24, 2011, 10:30:33 am »

Quote from: Termin8tor on February 24, 2011, 06:51:00 am

Good start, got a theme in mind?

VW Themed perhaps?

ghettodish · « **Reply #6 on:** February 25, 2011, 01:53:07 am »

My wife won't allow any more VW-themed stuff into our house or garage. Can't blame her...I just bought my 21st Bug...anyway....

blue Arcade Classics artwork, Black cab. The buttons, balltop MagStik, and T-molding are blue. I ordered 2 Trackballs: a blue 2.25 that lights up, and a white 3"...dunno which I'll use yet. The 2.25 showed up today; looks cool but may be too small. I got the mounting plate for the 3" trackball. I might paint it blue...I'll know more after I compare the trackballs side-by-side.

One note about the blue MagStik: I ordered the balltop stick as an upgrade. It is a light blue compared to the darker blue of the original handle (and push-buttons,T-molding, etc). I wish I knew that before I ordered. Now I'm gonna find out the joy of painting the plastic ball to make it match everything else. Home Depot has what seems to be the right color (Rustoleum, Sail Blue) but it is not for painting plastic. I had to also buy a special plastic primer that has to go on first.
The balltop was $14.00 before shipping. The paint and primer cost another $13.00. I just hope it has a nice finish and proves to be durable.
I think Ultimarc should have like-for-like colors, especially when it come to their upgrades. Or at least tell you that they don't match in their descriptions.

Ok, enough whining. I would like to say that Ultimarc products are top notch. This is the 2nd or 3rd time ordering their products. I am very pleased with their quality and variety. And shipping only took 3 days...from the UK!

ghettodish · « **Reply #7 on:** February 25, 2011, 02:23:09 am »

Quote from: VanillaGorilla on February 24, 2011, 12:35:31 am

Looking good! I see the nintendo influence also. how is that ryobi tablesaw treating you?

I've been using that saw for about 5 years now. No complaints, it works like a champ. It also doubles a router table.

ghettodish · « **Reply #8 on:** February 25, 2011, 01:30:53 pm »

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #9 on:** February 25, 2011, 01:52:02 pm »

Quote from: ghettodish on February 25, 2011, 02:23:09 am

It also doubles a router table.

How's that? I have a Ryobi table saw and am interested in this.

ghettodish · « **Reply #10 on:** February 25, 2011, 01:59:37 pm »

Quote from: HarumaN on February 25, 2011, 01:52:02 pm

Quote from: ghettodish on February 25, 2011, 02:23:09 am
It also doubles a router table.

How's that? I have a Ryobi table saw and am interested in this.

It was a kit: http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/03/r/columns/cupp/02/index.htm

ghettodish · « **Reply #11 on:** February 25, 2011, 07:04:49 pm »

Balltop after painting. In person it's an exact match. My camera is pretty crappy....
Both are now the darker "Happ blue". I didn't paint the button.

LeedsFan · « **Reply #12 on:** February 26, 2011, 12:13:11 am »

Nice job on painting the ball top... though how durable that will be only time will tell. It's gonna have to be pretty strong paint to not rub through or flake off. Problem is the ball top is a standard Sanwa part which will ofc be totally different colour to Happ parts. Seimitsu also do those ball tops and you could try and see if they have a colour that more closely matches. The screw thread is identical so that won't be a problem. Of course you really need to see a ball top in person to know it will match.

I'm a stickler for perfection with stuff like this myself so I know what it's like. I just bought three cans of car paint before finding the correct shade of red just to paint the dust washers on my latest project.

EDIT: In retrospect maybe it would have been better to use Sanwa buttons instead of Happs to ensure a perfect colour match? Depends how set you are on the Happs buttons.

ghettodish · « **Reply #13 on:** February 26, 2011, 03:20:16 am »

The paint should be quite durable. It will take a week for it to fully cure...I have enough primer and paint left over to paint it another 200 times if I need to.

I started putting the cp together today. Trackball looks awesome when it's lit...it should match the LED speakers I'm gonna use.

ghettodish · « **Reply #14 on:** February 26, 2011, 11:42:48 pm »

Primed, installed the coin door and marquee light, and cut/drilled the control panel Lexan

ghettodish · « **Reply #15 on:** February 27, 2011, 05:50:35 pm »

Finished the monitor box. I have used this design a few times now for the monitor and it works out great for adding structural integrity to the whole cab. I mount the monitor to the backing, set the bezel in place, then measure the space in between the two. That's how to get the dimensions for the 4 frame pieces.

borals · « **Reply #16 on:** February 27, 2011, 06:14:12 pm »

Where did you get that LCD monitor bezel?

ghettodish · « **Reply #17 on:** February 27, 2011, 06:54:37 pm »

Quote from: borals on February 27, 2011, 06:14:12 pm

Where did you get that LCD monitor bezel?

It's the 20" one from Happ. Can you see in the above picture where I had to cut the bezel off of the monitor? That made the Happ bezel fit perfect without removing the whole case from the monitor.

ghettodish · « **Reply #18 on:** February 27, 2011, 09:09:16 pm »

My hidden admin buttons. This box gets mounted behind the top coin door. The light switch is Main Power, toggle is for Coin/Free Play, and the buttons are Tab and Enter. The guts are still in the speaker housing for power/volume. The grill still fits. The buttons are mounted to a scrap of Lexan with paper under it. The speaker housing is mounted to the "box"

ghettodish · « **Reply #19 on:** March 04, 2011, 08:36:08 pm »

got a couple coats of Kelly-Moore "carbon" on it today. UPS just dropped of the t-molding. I'm just waiting for the artwork....

crashwg · « **Reply #20 on:** March 04, 2011, 09:45:25 pm »

Is that monitor 4:3? Can you provide a model number?

ghettodish · « **Reply #21 on:** March 04, 2011, 10:06:01 pm »

Quote from: crashwg on March 04, 2011, 09:45:25 pm

Is that monitor 4:3? Can you provide a model number?

4:3 Sony SDM-S204/B 20.1" LCD Monitor

This is my first time using this model. I think it originally sold for $1200...I found it on CL for $60

ghettodish · « **Reply #22 on:** March 05, 2011, 09:01:00 pm »

Got a little more done today. I'm doing what I can while I wait for the artwork.

I went to install the T-molding and discovered I was off-center a bit. Had to make another pass with the router. I also had to paint it again. I did get the coin doors, speakers, and admin stuff installed along with some of the wiring.

...now where did that power strip go???

ghettodish · « **Reply #23 on:** March 09, 2011, 02:32:36 am »

All done

Termin8tor · « **Reply #24 on:** March 09, 2011, 09:21:15 am »

Very cool


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