How to make a Top Mount or Under Mount Joystick Jig

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(+_+):
Nice jig!

I just finished recessing my joysticks recently. I simply used the joystick plate to draw the square and 4 pieces of 1/2" X 3" which I double sided taped to the bottom of the cp. You need to line up your wood pieces just outside the lines to compensate for the router sleeve. Man does that tape hold well. Almost too well. It's a quick and dirty way to do it, but it works. I do prefer your jig though, especially if your going to pump out a lot of controllers.

Mallen:
Timoe,
I plan on making one in a couple of days for my joysticks, thanks, this will be a good reference in case I get stuck.

--- Quote from: Minwah on March 22, 2006, 10:19:56 am ---Nice :)

Just a general tip also...keep making sure the router chuck is tight! I routed the underside of my stick panel to give some extra joystick height, and on the second player side the router gradually loosened, and when I looked it had routed all the way through in places...as you can imagine I was a tad pissed off.

I managed to fix it by cutting out the hole completely, routing a bigger rectangle from the top and mounting a metal plate into it for the stick to bolt to.

--- End quote ---

Minwah,
I think I know why your bit got loose. I've seen a few post here with bad bit tightening technique. The bit will loosen up if you drop it to the bottom and tighten it. It does so by design. Actually the manufacturer (porter cable and delta) recommends that the bit be bottomed and then raised 1/16 inch before tightening. This is because as you're tightening the bit, it moves down and squeezes, but if the bit is already seated on the bottom, I may stop before there is a good squeeze. Make sense? I've read this also in a woodworking magazine. I know it's a small detail, but a loose bit is dangerous. Also, check your bit chuck for cracks. Hope that fixes future problems. :cheers:

Gatsu:
Maybe a stupid question...but I'll ask anyway.

How deep do you need to router for the different types of buttons & joystick plates?

I'm gonna be jumping between Happ and Sanwa parts. Making 1 for myself and a couple for some friends for X-mas. And they prefer jap parts...while I prefer happ. ::)

or is there not really much difference?

Rusty:

--- Quote from: Mallen on August 17, 2007, 04:57:39 pm ---
The bit will loosen up if you drop it to the bottom and tighten it. It does so by design. Actually the manufacturer (porter cable and delta) recommends that the bit be bottomed and then raised 1/16 inch before tightening. This is because as you're tightening the bit, it moves down and squeezes, but if the bit is already seated on the bottom, I may stop before there is a good squeeze.

--- End quote ---

One of the better tips I've seen is to slip small O-rings onto the shanks of your bit and slide it all the way up to the top of the shank. This keeps the bit a fraction of an inch above the collet and also protects the head of the bit from nicks that can occur on the cutting edges if the bit is dropped into the router.

Namco:
On my control panel to recess the joystick a half inch, I used a dremel with the drywall cutting blade and the depth attachment to gouge out an extra 1/2" or so for my stick. It worked pretty well and greatly improved the look of the stick, but was extremely rough and looked like a monkey did it. Think I'll give this a try on my next CP... if I get a router, or unless I use that metal CP that's on my Dynamo cab. ;D

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