Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Xenophobe Restoration
Witchboard:
--- Quote from: Peale on March 09, 2006, 08:55:40 pm ---I don't even think the boss knows it's there. He comes into the shop very rarely these days. I certainly haven't discussed it with him at all, other than the initial 'hey can I buy this off you' 'no, you can have it' talk. I don't work on it during work hours, so other than taking a little bit of shop floor space, it shouldn't be an issue.
--- End quote ---
Let's just hope HE remembers that conversation when you get it working. ;D
SirPeale:
--- Quote from: Witchboard on March 09, 2006, 09:14:25 pm ---
--- Quote from: Peale on March 09, 2006, 08:55:40 pm ---I don't even think the boss knows it's there. He comes into the shop very rarely these days. I certainly haven't discussed it with him at all, other than the initial 'hey can I buy this off you' 'no, you can have it' talk. I don't work on it during work hours, so other than taking a little bit of shop floor space, it shouldn't be an issue.
--- End quote ---
Let's just hope HE remembers that conversation when you get it working. ;D
--- End quote ---
Oh, I'm not worried about that. It's in with the "I don't give a crap about this stuff, get it out of here" games.
SirPeale:
The original control panel wood was replaced. Too much wood to properly place the CPO back on top of it (there are screw attachments on the bottom). So, I broke out the jigsaw, and just started cutting away.
Right now I can get it so it lays flat, but then I turned it over to see where the joysticks would hit. I still have some chunks to remove.
SirPeale:
Had a little slack time at work today. Decided to tackle the gouges taken out of the board and patch them up.
Got a couple of the easier ones by bridging the gap with solder. The others were too wide. Cool Guy is far better at this than I am (much more experience) and he had this wire that's about as thick as a cat whisker. He deftly put the traces right, and even soldered back together a tant cap that had been pulled apart.
While he did that, I attacked the video wiring harness that had been butchered, and did some last minute patching of the board harness. The video harness was in *really* bad shape. People, when you convert something, there's no need to cut wires right at the connector, lengthy wire is your friend!
Cool guy finished, and the video harness was done a few minutes later. Brought it over to the cabinet. Unplugged power from the main board, so we could warm up the monitor. That was if bad things happened (other than releasing magic blue smoke) we could see it and turn it off quickly.
After letting it warm, plugged the power into the main board and...hm...what's this? White garbled graphics. Ah, nutz. Futz with it a bit more. No change. Crap.
What to do, what to do. What's that, Cool Guy? DIP switches? I dunno, worth a look-see.
Open the manual...hm...hey, switch 10...'FREEZE' WTF does that do? Cool Guy, is that one on? It is? Dammit son, flip it, flip it!
...
...
...
Oh, crap, it works! Sweet Abraham Lincoln's beard!
Smack the credit button a few times...yep, it's playing! Oh...hm...playing mute. Sounds Good board blinks six times...means that's good...but we have an MCR/2 amp, betcha it's bad. Time for more research.
SirPeale:
Running, no sound
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