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| The key to panting with MDF |
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| mahuti:
Watercolors are fine as long as you use the polycrylic coat after the color coat, it makes it durable, cleanable, and glossy. Looks great. |
| ShinAce:
Oil paint is inexpensive, completely waterproof(for easy cleaning), and resists incredibly well to scratches. It does smell strongly when curing. I've also used enamel, which gives a nice finish, dries fast, but scratches from the dust of a cloth wiping it down. Personally, I'll only use oil from now on. |
| Excretious:
I myself have had a bad experience with the polycrylic coat. I should also note that i am a total painting newb :D Heres what i did..... this is on my control panel, havnt yet gotten to the actual cabinet. Two coats of oil based kilz primer........ sand Two coats of oil based rust oleum flat black....... sand Coat of water based minwax polycrylic (says it can be used to seal oil based paint) This was done with a foam roller and when i put the polycrylic on, it left tiny air bubbles all over the clear coat. This forced me to sand it back down to the color coat. I then did another flat black coat, then tried the polycrylic again while being more careful and it still left them ****ing tiny air bubbles all over the clear coat. As of right now ive sanded back down to the black and rolled on another coat of black. I now must make a decision and am scared to try the polycrylic again. I have a can of oilbased polyurethane and may try that because i think the water based polycrylic isnt liking the oil based coats its being applied on. The only thing i can think of as to why im having problems with the polycrylic is maybe i need to presoak the foam roller so that its filled with pure poly. Maybe the air in the foam roller is pushing out with the polycrylic as im applying it. I dunno but im at wits end and my garage is a mess from all the sanding. Any advice would be HUGELY appreciated. |
| DrewKaree:
--- Quote from: Excretious on February 14, 2006, 11:53:37 pm --- This was done with a foam roller and when i put the polycrylic on, it left tiny air bubbles all over the clear coat. --- End quote --- Presoaking your roller isn't going to make a darn bit of difference. You shouldn't be using a foam roller for this application AT ALL. I don't even care if the can says you are able to, it's the flat-out wrong applicator. Get yourself a nice brush. If you MUST use something cheap, get a paint PAD. MOST importantly is - DO NOT SHAKE THE CAN TO MIX IT UP - I REPEAT, DO NOT SHAKE THE CAN TO MIX IT UP!. Grab a stirring stick, and stir the snot out of it. If it feels like there's sludge on the bottom of the can, keep stirring. And stir. And stir. When you're done stirring, stir some more. Using the brush (or your pad), put down a nice coat of the stuff. Move in ONE direction. When you have everything covered (work quickly too), take your brush (this is why a brush is BETTER than a pad) and just barely holding on to the end of the brush with your thumb and forefinger, go back against the direction you applied everything in. Hold the brush a little short of vertical (like around 75 degrees) and go back over the whole piece. This is called "tipping off" the finish. This will help eliminate any air bubbles that might have formed, and will help to level out your finish. You'll never get a decent finish with poly using a foam roller. It's just NEVER going to happen. |
| Excretious:
Drew, Thanks a TON for the tip, but in your opinion, what should i be using.... the polycrylic that is water based or the polyurethane that is oil based? Does it matter? Mahuti told me in private message that i shouldnt use anything that isnt oil based until my previous oil based coats have been given enough time to cure. He said that could take weeks depending on climate. again , thanks for the help! |
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