Main > Main Forum

1/2" control panel...?

Pages: << < (3/4) > >>

DrewKaree:


--- Quote from: fixedpigs on January 26, 2006, 12:33:11 am ---well cost was the main factor...since the 3/4" is twice that of the 1/2"...
check the lower left...

--- End quote ---

You've GOT to be staining this, right?  If you're not staining this, you're a fool for getting anything other than pine.  That premium ply is NOT for painting, laminating, or throwing vinyl over. 

If there's a Menard's in the area, check out their MDO (I think that's what it is, I can't remember what they call it).  It's an MDF core with a nice plywood veneer and should cost you a bit less. 

Also, Menards is a good place for stuff Home Depot DOESN'T sell, like Walnut , Maple, or Cherry veneered ply, but it's been my experience that Home Depot usually has better Oak and Birch prices than Menards simply because they deal ONLY in those two "premium" woods and tend to go through it a little bit faster.  Your area may differ, obviously.

Are you using plywood for your entire cabinet?  Something's not adding up to me so that's why I'm wondering.

fixedpigs:


--- Quote from: DrewKaree on January 26, 2006, 03:08:40 am ---
If there's a Menard's in the area, check out their MDO (I think that's what it is, I can't remember what they call it).  It's an MDF core with a nice plywood veneer and should cost you a bit less. 

Also, Menards is a good place for stuff Home Depot DOESN'T sell, like Walnut , Maple, or Cherry veneered ply, but it's been my experience that Home Depot usually has better Oak and Birch prices than Menards simply because they deal ONLY in those two "premium" woods and tend to go through it a little bit faster.  Your area may differ, obviously.

Are you using plywood for your entire cabinet?  Something's not adding up to me so that's why I'm wondering.

--- End quote ---

the plywood that menard's has with the mdf core is only like three dollars cheaper than the full out layered plywood...i'd rather spend the three dollars more and get lighter wood...
 
that makes sense about menard's versus home depot...i'll see what hd has to offer...thanks...!

i am planning on using plywood for the entire cabinet...what's not adding up...?


DrewKaree:

For some reason, I had envisioned the entire thing either being done in laminate/paint/whatever.

Other than that, are you thinking of using half-inch for the rest of the cab too, or just the CP? 

What kind of plywood are you thinking of using for the rest of the cab?  Oak/Birch as well, or Pine?  The grain differences are probably going to be pretty different, because most sheets are radially cut, and the grain is usually a lot wilder with pine than oak with radially cut ply, plus the differences in stain absorbption and general coloration differences between the two.

I guess I'm trying to just drag more info out of you ;D

fixedpigs:

the rest of the cabinet will be 3/4"...
i will be painting the cabinet...so i guess it should be pine...!
 
i was just wanting to get the 4x4' sheet of 1/2" since it was on sale(and easier to transport than a 4x8' sheet...) and build up the control panel...
i want to get the control panel squared away before building the rest of the cabinet...
 


DrewKaree:

ALRIGHTY!  Now we're getting somewhere! 

Painting the whole cabinet, deciding on pine, now look at how much of a difference there is between half and three quarters pine in that size, and we're now down to $5 for the good stuff, and if you move down a step, the difference is still the same, but now you're onto something that saves you money but is still suitable for painting!  Look at the difference between the CDX sheet at 3/4" versus the ACX sheet of 1/2" and the difference is even less.  NOW I'd say if you're gonna save your money and do everything in pine, skip the ACX grade and move one step down.  It'll take a touch more to finish, but your time saves you money, right?

Since you're gonna paint this, check out my project thread and look at the skim coat of drywall compound I did on the CP top.  It's on one of the later pages, so you don't have to read through that whole thing.  That drywall compound will level everything out once you've sanded it smooth, and it'll fill in any imperfections like knotholes, those little footballs they might have, cracks, etc.  If you don't do it, your grain will show through.  It's a personal choice, so it's definitely not necessary, but it'll darn sure make a nice smooth finish compared to how plain plywood of ANY species will soak up paint differently.  Save a few scraps and test it out and compare the two to see what I mean.  They sell that DAP pre-mixed compound in little half-pint containers for only a buck or two.

I think you'll end up saving yourself a pile more money going with pine all the way through, and if you choose to go that route, why not go the whole nine yards and make the wood the same thickness all the way through to make measurements and whatnot a whole lot easier? :)

Pages: << < (3/4) > >>

Go to full version