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Laminate trimmer for t-molding slot cutting?
miles2912:
For a "get the job done I don't plan on routing too much more router" Harbor Freight has a 1.75HP plunge router for 40 on sale now. I am sure that would work for the casuall cabinetbuilder, anyone who wants to get into woodworking would be well advised to buy a nicer set up. It comes default set for a 1/2" shank and has an attachment for a 1/4" shank. They also sell a 3 wing slot cutter set including a 1/16" slot for 25.
Don
Tahnok:
I was going to put an order in with rockler for that bit, but now I see that it says it's "designed to be used in a router table". Do you think it will be a problem working with a corded plunge router? I'm mainly looking to just punch out curvy sides.
DrewKaree:
--- Quote from: tahnok100 on January 18, 2006, 07:31:40 pm ---I was going to put an order in with rockler for that bit, but now I see that it says it's "designed to be used in a router table". Do you think it will be a problem working with a corded plunge router? I'm mainly looking to just punch out curvy sides.
--- End quote ---
I have about 4 of those bits, and one of them actually DID come from Rockler. I have yet to EVER use a pattern bit in a router table yet (don't have projects small enough or non-cumbersome to do on a router table) and they work just fine. I'll see if I can find a link for the one I just used to copy my CP top.
DrewKaree:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=1863
I used the flush trim bit just because I originally needed to match the sides of my CP, but it's the exact same principle. Another thing I just thought of about why you might have to use the Rockler bit in a table is the cutter might hang below the material you're matching up. Picking up a flush trim bit like the one pictured above will allow you to use it even if you don't have sawhorses or anything to prop your material up on.
Tahnok:
--- Quote from: DrewKaree on January 18, 2006, 07:44:41 pm ---[Image Removed]
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=1863
I used the flush trim bit just because I originally needed to match the sides of my CP, but it's the exact same principle. Another thing I just thought of about why you might have to use the Rockler bit in a table is the cutter might hang below the material you're matching up. Picking up a flush trim bit like the one pictured above will allow you to use it even if you don't have sawhorses or anything to prop your material up on.
--- End quote ---
Thanks for confirming that! I had thought about the problem that I might run into with the bearings being on top, but I figured everything out and it won't be a problem. One more question that I meant to ask. Is there any difference between a pattern bit and a flush trip bit other than the bearing positions? Can a flush trim bit handle more than just a little bit of overhang (such as actually cutting it out of the board)?
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