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Over under coin door
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SithMaster:
ive already removed my coin door and the coin box and cleaned the box.
SithMaster:
hmmmmm....

ive found a guide on wiring a coin door but it doesnt specify a type of wire to use.  is 22 gauge hookup wire good to use?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036275&cp=&fbn=Type/Hookup&f=PAD/Product+Type/Hookup&fbc=1&kw=22+gauge+wire&parentPage=search

and for quick disconnects
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104016&cp=&kw=quick+disconnect&parentPage=search

or

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103502&cp=&kw=quick+disconnect&parentPage=search
brian23:
18 Gauge is good. Wire the lights in parallel. RetroBlast has an article (as do a number of sites) on how to wire lights into your computer.
SithMaster:
actually i was refering how to wire the switches to a keyboard hack or encoder.  I wasnt sure which wire thickness to use and if those disconnects are acceptable.

though i will be adding lights which i will need to buy.  i have looked at the retroblast tutorials but they didnt mention which thickness of wire to use for the coin input.  keep in mind im using a pc for running the cab.

for the lights, would i stick the bulb into the whole above the one for the reject button to slide out of? (hopefully this makes sense) theres two holes in the part that holds the coin reject button in place though it seems obivous that thats what its there for i just want to make sure.

thanks
brian23:
Can you post a picture of your coin door and mech area? Yes, there is a small hole where the lightbulb or LED sticks through above the hole where the plastic piece that pushes the reject on the coin mech.

As for the coin switches, I used a .187 quick disconnect, but others may take a .110 or even a .250 quick disconnect. The gage of the wire I used was 20 gage. You could probably get away with 22 gage.


I used 16 guage wire for hooking into the PC. I just cut the 12V and 1 ground wire from the a spare Y molex connector (You can get it from RadioShack for $6). Using a splice crimp connector, I spliced the wire into the 12V and ground. Using the same LED wedge sockets in the RetroBlast tutorial, I then got a set of .110 male quick disconnects from JammaBoards.com. Crimped them onto the 16 guage wire (wired in parallel just as in the RetroBlast tutorial) - and tada.
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